SINGAPORE | Geylang has a reputation for several things in Sinagpore. Many consider it to be representative of the “real” Singapore – an area that’s frequented by locals, has escaped much of the rapid gentrification that’s swept its way across Singapore and is still a bit rough around the edges. It’s Singapore’s most famous red light district and it’s also home to some of Singapore’s best street food. If you want to know where to find the best food in Geylang then the rules are simple – follow your nose and the locals. If something smells good and there are loads of locals eating there, chances are it’s going to be good.

singapore geylang food walk guide

This Geylang Food Guide, which takes you on a food focused walk through Geylang will help to ensure you eat well in this street food mecca. For tips on where and what to eat in Singapore more generally, a read through my upcoming Singapore Food Guide is a must, but if you want to know where and what to eat in Geylang, read on.

Tanjong Rhu Pau & Confectionery

Tanjong Rhu Pau serve a few different kinds of sweet delights but the thing they are most famous for is their bau. These things are steamed to perfection – the buns are soft, springy and light and there are a range of different fillings on offer. The sweet fillings aren’t overly sweet and the meat fillings are always nice and juicy. The red bean is a personal favourite and char siew is another highlight. The only criticism that this places tends to attract is that the prices are high compared to other bao in Singapore, but the general consensus is that it’s worth it as the quality is a cut above the rest. Each bao is made by hand, the same way it’s been done here over the past 30 years.

singapore geylang food walk guide

singapore geylang food walk guide

singapore geylang food walk guide

singapore geylang food walk guide

Tanjong Rhu Pau & Confectionery
389 Guillemard Road
Singapore 399788

Durian

What can be said about the famous durian that hasn’t already been said. Known as the “king of fruits” in South East Asia, durian is known for its large size, strong odour and thick, spiky exterior. Descriptions of the fruit’s flavour range from “aromatic custard” and “pleasantly perfumed” to “rotten onions” and “sweaty underwear”. You can smell durian from a mile away (it’s actualy banned from many places), and stalls selling it can be found dotted throughout Geylang. There’s no sitting on the fence when it comes to durian – you’ll either love it or hate it.

singapore geylang food walk guide

singapore geylang food walk guide

Sin Huat Seafood Restaurant

Sin Huat is a place that divides Singaporean foodies. It’s infamous for its pricing practices, whereby chef Danny basically tells you what you will be ordering, with you having no knowledge as to the serving size or price until your final bill arrives. It’s famous however for its braised crab mee hoon (a fried vermicelli-type noodle). Local food guru K.F. Seetoh is a fan, as was Anthony Bourdain when he returned to Singapore several years ago. I didn’t get the opportunity to eat here so can’t give you my personal take but no guide to food in Geylang would be complete without mentioning Sin Huat.

singapore geylang food walk guide

Sin Huat Seafood Restaurant
659 Geylang Road
Singapore 389589

singapore geylang food walk guide

Kwong Satay

Kwong Satay is a Geylang institution that does one thing only, and one thing very well – satay. There are a lot of press endorsements up for all to see but don’t let this dissuade you – the Chinese-style satay the Kwong Satay have been selling since 1982 live up to the hype. There are 3 options on offer – pork, chicken, mutton as well as ketupat (a type of packed rice dumpling) and otah (fish cake). It’s all cooked fresh over charcoal, with the ketupat and otah wrapped in pandan leaves. It’s all very delicious with the fatty pork and lean chicken particularly standing out.

singapore geylang food walk guide

singapore geylang food walk guide

singapore geylang food walk guide

If you can fit it in you should also try Swee Guan Hokkien Mee which is located in the same building. This place has been serving Hokkien Mee cooked over a traditional charcoal fire since 1968, and is famous for its smoky wok char and intensely rich prawn stock.

Kwong Satay
Sing Lian Eating House
549 Geylang Road x Lorong 29
Singapore 389504

Lor 29

Lor 29 is located, unsurprisingly, at the corner of Lorong 29 and Geylang Road, just across from Kwong Satay. It’s a large venue that’s great for just chilling out in with a Tiger beer and grabbing some food. A wide array of dishes are on offer at the counter here and while no one dish is the best example of what you can get, it’s all very tasty and gives you the opportunity to decide at the last minute what you feel like when you’re in an indecisive mood.

singapore geylang food walk guide

singapore geylang food walk guide

Lor 29
Yinchuan Building
Geylang Road x Lorong 29
Singapore 389504

No Signboard Seafood

I didn’t get a chance to eat at No Signboard Seafood but its inclusion on this list is a must. It’s well known for its fresh cze char (Chinese home-style cuisine) seafood and is popular with locals and tourists alike. The Geylang branch isn’t the only outpost of No Signboard but it’s generally considered to be the best. The White Pepper Crab and Chilli Crab are the signature dishes (some say the best Chilli Crab in Singapore can be found here), and word on the street is that the Claypot Beancurd and Sauteed Scallops with Dry Red Chilli are particular highlights too.

singapore geylang food walk guide

No Signboard Seafood
414 Geylang Road
Singapore 389392

singapore geylang food walk guide

Geylang Lor 9

Geylang Lor 9 is famous for its Frog Leg Porridge and Fried Beef Kway Teow. I love a good fried beef kway teow but hadn’t tried frog leg porridge before so knew that was what I had to order. The porridge is Cantonese style, smooth, gooey and delicate. The spicy version uses dark sweet soya sauce, dried chilli and spring onions and wine. The mild version replaces the dried chilli with ginger. I was surprised at how much I like this dish. Eating the frog legs was much the same as eating chicken wings but the real highlight was mixing the broth with the rice porridge.

singapore geylang food walk guide

singapore geylang food walk guide

singapore geylang food walk guide

Geylang Lor 9
4 Lor 9 x Geylang Road
Singapore 388752

The Tuck Shop

The Tuck Shop is a great little bar in Geylang that offers not just craft beer, but a decent range of other drinks (including some fantastic Italian wines) and food. The space is open and breezy and opens out onto the street where you can enjoy your drink alfresco with the mixture of Singaporeans and expats who call the bar their local. If you want a break from the traditional Singaporean street food, The Tuck Shop is well worth checking out.

267A8672

267A8666

The Tuck Shop
403 Guillemard Road
Singapore 399795

singapore geylang food walk guide

Do you live in Singapore or have you been to Geylang before? What’s your favourite dish/place to eat at in Geylang?