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The Gem, Collingwood

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18 September 2015

MELBOURNE | Nestled in a quiet spot on Wellington Street, The Gem is one of Collingwood’s more established pubs. The venue, like a number of other pubs in the inner north, reinvented itself a few years ago and started to smoke meat ‘low and slow’. Given our obsession with American barbecue we decided it was long past time that we sampled the food at The Gem and made a trip there one Sunday afternoon.

The outside of the venue has clearly been refreshed and maintained over time but retains the classic characteristics of the pubs in the area. The inside also feels clean and fresh but retains its old school charm – we really like the trend of older pubs carrying out interior works in a way that makes it feel like they were always as they are now, The Rainbow Hotel is another of our favourite pubs that is a good example of this.

The drinks list is fairly basic but functional covering wine, basic spirits and a short beer list that still manages a few local craft brews as well as some bottles from one of the larger American craft breweries, Sierra Nevada, and cans of the All Day IPA by Founders. We were easily able to find something that met our minimum standard for drinkability and again applaud the trend of older pubs keeping with the times and keeping at least a couple of solid craft beers on their drinks list. The ubiqitous and oft-maligned Pabst Blue Ribbon (‘PBR’) is also available in a pint can for those who want a different lager experience or for a craft beer veteran looking for a cheap laugh.

The food menu is quite interesting for an old pub, combining both the full range of classics such as the beef burger and chicken parma and the aforementioned slow-cooked barbecue to ensure that those who have decided to ride the American BBQ wave are not left wanting. There is also a rotating specials menu with around eight choices which, at least on the day that we visited, had a decidedly Mexican/Spanish influence. The barbecue offering included the trinity of pulled pork, beef brisket and ribs of the pork and beef variety (although disappointingly no slow cooked beef rib) as well as two types of sausages and roast chicken. The sides were also as expected, covering the range from cornbread to coleslaw and mac & cheese. Barbecued meat can be ordered either separately or as a tasting plate which includes five meats and five sides. On Sundays there is also a roast available that rotates on a weekly basis.

Sunday Roast ($25.00)

On the day that we visited the roast of the week was duck served with brussells sprouts, Yorkshire pudding and gravy. This was done exactly the way a Sunday roast should be, the duck was very tasty and had great crispy skin, the Yorkshire pudding was the right mix between dense and fluffy and absorbed the gravy nicely and the sprouts were crunchy and had melded well with the flavour of the gravy. This was one of the best Sunday roasts that we have had for quite some time.

Beef Brisket ($18.00) and Mac & Cheese ($4.00)

We couldn’t visit a place that advertises meat ‘low and slow’ so on the barbecue side we decided to try the beef brisket with a side of mac & cheese. This may have been a case of being spoiled by the emergence of ‘pro cuers’ in Melbourne over the last couple of years but we found that the brisket feel short of our expectations. Whilst the flavours were good, the meat was not as tender and ‘fall apart’ as we are used to from the better briskets such as those available from Ironbark BBQ and Bluebonnet BBQ, and was also on the dry side. The mac & cheese was perfectly serviceable without being amazing, although for only $4.00 for a decent serving size we couldn’t complain.

Chipotle Glazed BBQ Beef Rib ($26.00)

We also tried one of the specials on the menu, which was a Chipotle glazed BBQ beef rib, served with Mexicali rice and sweet potato crisps. Like the brisket the meat was not as tender as we are used to, but in this style the rib is not cooked as long as in the American style and in any case this was made up for by the flavour and chipotle glaze which were both excellent and combined well to create a great dish overall. We found that by the time we had finished the meat that the rice and crisps were somewhat superfluous and would suggest that perhaps some vegetables might be a better accompaniment.

We very much enjoyed our Sunday afternoon feast of meat – we recommend that anyone who has a hankering for a Sunday roast or some innovative special dishes head over and check out The Gem, but if you’re used to Melbourne’s barbecue elite then we would recommend going elsewhere for a slow cooked meat fix.

The Gem

287 Wellington Street
Collingwood
Victoria 3066
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9419 5170
Email: n/a
Website: http://www.thegembar.com.au/

Open

Dining:
Tue – Thu: 6:00pm to 9:30pm
Fri: 12:00pm to 3:00pm; 6:00pm to 10:00pm
Sat – Sun: 1:00pm to late

Bar:
Tue -Thu: 3:00pm to 11:00pm
Fri: 12:00pm to 1:00am
Sat: 1:00pm to 1:00am
Sun: 1:00pm to 11:00pm

S02E11 – Season 2, Episode 11

Chris

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17 September 2015

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PODCAST | In this windy and glitch-filled (sorry about that) penultimate episode, Chris goes to a new basement bar with a progressive tap list; Paul finds an apple-based beer that is far better than that apple-based beer we had a few weeks ago; and Jeff discovers a place that offers half price craft beer nights and he still can’t believe it exists. We also weigh in on Heineken’s purchase of our beloved craft brewery Lagunitas.

On top of all this, we try a new segment where we talk about beers we bought but then forgot to drink.

… and sorry again about the wind.

Featured beers: Purple Stain by Mash Brewing and Cherry Sour 2013 Vintage by Moa Brewing Company.

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

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The Basement Bar Is Back, In Mill House Form

Chris

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17 September 2015

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The Basement Bar Is Back, In Mill House Form

MELBOURNE | The Mill House, a brand-new basement bar in Melbourne’s CBD has just opened and The City Lane was there for its opening night, flood pants and all.

Situated just down the road from City Library and popular cafe/bar Journal, The Mill House can be found by following a short set of stairs from Flinders Lane. Like many of Melbourne’s basement bars, the bar is a deceptively large space, with the interiors featuring a mix of nautical and smuggling props, the likes of which seem to be in a league all of their own. Given the reputation of Melbournians for taking souvenirs from bars, we hope these trinkets are nailed down.

For the launch, and as a solid indicator of things to come, attendees were treated to entertainment from a Titanic-style life drawing session, you may need to use your imagination on that one; a flapper-clad performer adorned with a boa constrictor; and a temporary tattoo artist offering designs fitting of the bar’s own nautical and smuggler iconography. I’ll admit, I doubt if these will be a regular feature of the bar, but they would be a welcome feature with a Friday night drink.

Looking beyond the aesthetics and the theatricality, The Mill House offers a tap list featuring usual faces from Little Creatures and James Boags, and some interesting additions like those from up-and-coming breweries like New South Wales’ Young Henrys. On the spirits side of things, for launch night we were offered a specially-made moonshine, a drink likely to make doves cry and convert even the most spirit-averse drinker. The wine and cocktail list is also quite decent, the cocktail we had was superb, if that is more to your taste.

There is also a quite decent food selection on the menu, but at the launch we were only given some light tasters and samples of what was on offer. The regular menu includes things such as braised brisket, a range of pizzas, and prawns. There’s also a pared back late night menu with a few less pizzas and sides, but we suspect that providing the bar is open, a few less options won’t be a big problem for you.

The layout and the feel of the place appears designed to take you away from the world. It’s big enough to fit 400 people, but there are plenty of small nooks and booths to create some more intimate spaces, making it work as both a date spot and a venue for work drinks, depending on your need.

Melbournians really are spoilt for choice when it comes to bars, but when writing this review, we were hard-pressed to come up with a basement bar we genuinely liked. With the Mill House, perhaps this might change. It’s early days for the bar, and like most bars, we’re sure it will be the subject of constant evolution while it finds its feet over the next few months, but it seems certain it is on the right track.

The Mill House

277–279 Flinders Lane
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9662 4002
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: http://themillhouse.com.au

Open
Tue – Sat: 3:00pm to late

St Clements, Parsons Green

Lauren

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16 September 2015

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LONDON | St Clements Parsons Green is a rustic cafe located in SW6 which focuses on seasonal British produce and great coffee. The cafe itself has a quaint homely atmosphere which makes it perfect for brunch with friends or a quiet location to do some work. St Clements’ ethos is simple food make exceptionally well. As such this is not the location to expect crazy flavour combinations with all the bells and whistles. Rather this is where you go if you want classic flavour combinations prepared and served properly.

To start our morning off Paul and I both had a cups of the house coffee which was sharp and flavourful. The coffee is produced by East London based Ozone Coffee Roasters and served with milk from Goodwill Farm. It’s obvious when dining at St Clements that the owners are proud of their producers, and the origin of all ingredients is proudly displayed. I find it refreshing when businesses are so willing to provide this information and in turn support small producers.

The coffee was a great start and fortunately the food did not disappoint.

Scrambled Eggs On Sourdough with Yorkshire Bacon (£9.50)

The scrambled eggs on sourdough were light, creamy and the addition of a tomato chutney added a great depth of flavour. Simple and delicious. There was an option to replace the bacon with smoked salmon from Yorkshire’s Staal Smokehouse, and a further option to add portobello mushrooms (+£2.50)

Organic Porridge With Grated Apple, Toasted Coconut & Honey (£6.00)

This dish was delicious and exactly what one looks for when ordering a porridge. The oats were creamy, the apple added a little natural sweetness and the toasted coconut completed things with some textural difference.

A range of preserves, the house blend coffee beans and granola along with other bits and bobs depending on the season are available to purchase and take home.

St Clements also offers regular supper clubs which consist of a 3 course set menu (£38.00/head) . During the supper club a range of creative dishes are served in a casual setting with approximately 10 people. This gives diners a great opportunity to try a range of dishes at a reasonable price. If you are interested in attending one of the supper clubs you can book using the St Clements website.

We only sampled a few things on the breakfast menu, but based on our experience I would definitely be interested in trying more dishes from the breakfast and lunch menus and attending one of the supper clubs. In fact while we were eating breakfast we had a chat to a cafe regular who enthused highly about the many supper club experiences she’d had at St Clements. Sometimes you don’t need to be fancy or on trend, and just doing honest food right with great service is all one needs. St Clements fits this bill nicely.

St Clements

201 New Kings Road
London SW6 4SR
United Kingdom

Telephone: 020 7998 8919
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.stclementscafe.co.uk/

Open
Mon – Fri: 8:00am to 5:30pm
Sat: 8:30am to 5:30pm
Sun: 9:00am to 5:30pm

Cadbury Comes To Federation Square

Chris

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15 September 2015

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MELBOURNE | If you like chocolate, I’m looking at you Melbourne, then this week might just be the week for you. From 16-18 September, Cadbury are launching Joy’O’Clock. The plan? To bring joy back to afternoons through the magic of chocolate, specifically free chocolate.

Next Wednesday to Friday Federation Square will be given a purple (think Cadbury, not Prince) makeover featuring entertainment, giveaways, activities, DJs, and chocolate, lots of chocolate. There’s even a special surprise at 3:30pm on the Wednesday … we assume this will also involve chocolate.

With the weather on the rise and office dwelling proving harder and harder, a festival of chocolate (and other fine things) could be the best way to get you through your day. If you’re in the city, or if you can get there, we suggest you take a few moments to indulge your sweet tooth.

Cadbury Joy’O’Clock

When: Wed 16 to Fri 18 September, 8:00am to 5:30pm

Entry: Free

Where: Federation Square. Melbourne

Cure: Review

Paul

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14 September 2015

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SINGAPORE | Cure Singapore is the new restaurant by chef Andrew Walsh (formerly of Esquina) and Joel Fraser (The Cufflink Club) and it puts the focus squarely on the season’s best produce, gathered by a variety of local and global artisans. There’s a big focus on British and Irish produce, and the food follows the trend of pared back gastronomy – fine dining technique combined with simplicity and casualness. Despite what you might think from the name, Cure isn’t all about cured meats – the name derives from the Latin curare, which means “to take care of”.

The drinks menu is focused and contains a carefully selected variety of wines, beers and spirits, along with cocktails created by Joel Fraser. The cocktails are pre-made, but they still taste as good as you’d expect.

The space is small, narrow and modern, and while it’s not an open kitchen with a bar that people can dine at, the kitchen is still open to the restaurant for all to see.

Food wise, the seasonal, ever changing menu is offered as a range of set menus ranging from 2 to 6 courses depending on the time of day. We’ve heard great things about the set menu but on this occasion were keen to try the bar menu, which is a step above many of the bar menus we’ve seen elsewhere and follows the same philosophy as the rest of the food on offer.

Iberico Ham, House Ricotta, Toast ($23.00)

The first dish we ordered was the simplest dish on the menu. 3 components, with understandably very little done to them. The Iberico ham was thinly sliced with a decadent melt-in-your-mouth fatiness to each bite while the house made ricotta was creamy and mild, a perfect offset to the ham.

Beef Tartar & Oyster Mayo ($22.00)

The beef tartar was nicely seasoned, with the oyster mayo giving it a tangy, salty kick which is exactly what was required to complete the dish.

Hot & Cold Scallop, House Duck Ham, English Pea ($26.00)

The most beautifully presented of the dishes on the bar menu were these scallops. There wasn’t too much going on in the way of seasoning with this dish which we really appreciated as the ingredients were excellent and served as they were, the quality of the produce really stood out. Having the scallops cooked 2 different ways but both minimally tweaked really showed how natural flavours can be manipulated by cooking alone. It was quite complex for what was ultimately a simple dish.

Buttermilk Fried Quail, Horseradish, Dill Salt ($22.00)

This was a revelation. Much milder than the usual fried chicken we are used to, the quail was lightly battered and not the slightest bit heavy or greasy. When it first came out we felt that the dish was missing something and indeed it was. The horseradish aioli, which was soon brought out added a much needed boost to the quail. It wasn’t bad as such without the aioli, but became so much more with it.

Orange, Chocolate & Honeycomb ($14.00)

This dessert, the description of which only gave away the components was one of the best desserts we’ve tried all year. A rich, thick chocolate mouse formed the majority of the dessert with a nice streak of orange cream throughout. Texturally, things were broken up by honeycomb which wasn’t overly sweet and pieces of crunchy chocolate crumb. The proportions were perfect and each bite worked wonderfully with a bit of everything combined.

We were really impressed by our time at Cure. The drinks were tasty, the staff were friendly and fun and always professional and, most importantly, the food lived up to expectations. Quality, seasonal produce and simple dishes elevated by technique is very much on trend now, and based on what places like Cure are doing, we can only see this trend as being one that’s here to stay for good.

Cure

21 Keong Saik Road
Singapore 089128

Telephone: 6221 2189
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.curesingapore.com/

Open
Dinner, Mon – Sat: 6:00pm to late
Lunch, Tue – Fri: From 12:00pm

Howler, Brunswick East

Jeff

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13 September 2015

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MELBOURNE | Located at the end of an inconspicuous car park just off Sydney Road, Howler Brunswick is one of the more recent additions to the Brunswick bar scene. We had been meaning to pay them a visit for quite some time so we decided to pop in during a casual Sunday afternoon session.

Opened in mid-2013, Howler attempts to differentiate itself from long-standing venues such as The Retreat and the Brunswick Hotel which retain an ‘old school’ pub feel with an urban-hip space that has a strong focus on design which combines both indoor and outdoor areas to great effect. The frontage of the venue is an homage to its wool store origins with custom art painted over the old brick walls.

On walking into Howler we were greeted by a large, comfortable open air space with ample seating which would be perfect on a hot summer’s afternoon (or night). There are also bar heaters on the wall which make the space usable on those cold Melbourne winter days.

Inside is a another spacious area that makes extensive use of wood and black paint to create an industrial yet inviting feel for the venue. Behind the bar is an array of metal geometric shapes that act as shelves for the extensive spirits collection which further enhances the overall feel of the bar.

First and foremost Howler is a bar and so we were very keen to check out their drinks list. Surprisingly (and pleasingly!) in addition to the expected array of cocktails, wine and spirits, Howler also has an extensive selection of craft beer on offer. In fact, for a venue that does not market itself as having a craft beer focus it selection of beer is probably superior to most so called ‘craft beer bars’. As an example this was first venue where we noticed the Alesmith Speedway Stout (one of the most highly rated beers in the world and a personal favourite of Jeff’s) available in bottles.
On this occasion the beer taps included craft offerings from Japan (Coedo), New Zealand (Monteith’s) and also a local representative (Hargreaves Hill):

Turning to the fridges we found a wide selection of beers by Mikkeller (one of our favourite breweries) including one of their collaborations with 3 Floyds. Given the virtual non-distribution of 3 Floyds beers outside of the US we were most impressed that it was available so we had to give it a try (Spoiler: it was excellent).

Howler’s food range has evolved since opening from what was an Asian-style snack food menu to one that focuses on burgers (there are seven types) and also includes two types of pork ribs and a range of snack-sized dishes.

Togarashi Fries ($9.50)

We kicked off our meal with the Togarashi Fries, which were an Asian take on French fries with Sriracha sauce, kewpie mayo, bonito flakes, tonkatsu, pickles and sesame. Whilst the ingredient list sounds a bit random the combination of flavours actually worked really well and we enjoyed the mix of the spiciness from the Sriracha, the salty-sourness of the pickles and the light, airy texuture of the bonito flakes which gave good variety to the potato fries which can sometimes become monotonous when eaten in volume. Paul considers these to be one of the best fries in Melbourne.

Beer-Battered Flathead Burger / Pork Belly Burger / Chicken Burger ($18.00 each, Served With Fries)

Next we tried three of the burgers on offer, starting with the fried fish burger, which was done in a milk bun with wakame, Asian slaw and kewpie mayo. This was done well, the fish was well cooked and the batter not too heavy, and the slaw and wakame helped to offset the slightly greasy/oily nature of the fish. In addition, we must say that we really like the current trend away from brioche buns towards milk buns which are soft without being ‘crumbly’ and better absorb the various sauces that might accompany a burger.

The second burger that we tried was the pork belly burger, which was slow cooked over 12 hours and served with apple slaw, green tomato chutney and smoked currant mayo. As our regular readers would know we are aficionados of slow cooked meat and this burger did not disappoint. The pork was tender, the apple slaw added a nice crunch and complemented the pork well, cutting through the fat on the meat (which was sufficient to make the burger juicy without being excessive).

Lastly we sampled the chicken burger, which was grilled with lemon and thyme and combined with bacon, avocado, cheese, relish and mayo. The combination of classic ingredients, good produce and well cooked chicken resulted in a burger that lived up to the high standards of the other two that we tried.

Chilli Pork Ribs ($21.00)

Because we apparently had not yet consumed enough food we decided that we would order a serve of the chilli pork ribs to complete our meal. Like the pork belly burger the ribs were slow cooked to the point where the meat fell nicely off the bone, and the chilli barbecue glaze was very much to our liking, a little sweet with just the right amount of spicy kick.

Last but not least, Howler markets itself as a live music venue and focuses on bringing in the an interesting range of local and international indie, electronic and art-house bands. We have yet to attend a gig at Howler yet but with bands such as Hiatus Kaiyote and Holy Holy having played there it is only a matter of time before we do.

Overall, we think that Howler have put together an excellent blend of good food, a top beer list and great atmosphere in one venue. We really enjoyed our time at Howler and will definitely be adding it the list of venues that we visit regularly.

Howler

7 Dawson Street
Brunswick
Victoria 3056
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9077 5572
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: https://h-w-l-r.com/

Open
Mon – Sun: 12:00pm to 1:00am

Barrafina Drury Lane, Covent Garden

Geneveive

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12 September 2015

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LONDON | Where to take a first time visitor to London? When you have an out of town guest, the pressure is on to deliver on the restaurant selection. Barrafina Drury Lane is the new, Covent Garden outpost of the popular Spanish casual dining restaurant and as we’re big fans of the other 2 Barrafinas it seemed like an obvious choice.

Opening in July 2015 in the heart of the West End theatre district, one is transported upon entering Barrafina Drury Lane from central London to Spain. The atmosphere is energetic, the decor is lively, and the service is impeccable. As soon as we walked in we were greeted by a genuinely friendly member of staff who explained the queuing system as we were all Barrafina novices. The restaurant operates from an L-shaped counter top where guests are served in the order they arrive. You queue inside (so long as there’s room) along the wall with a little counter top. Much better than other places having you queue outside given London’s unpredictable weather. There’s a strictly no-bookings policy, however the venue features a private dining room downstairs if you are planning a special event that can be booked.

While you wait you are able to pass the time with a glass of vino and snacks from the “para picar” section of the menu. We couldn’t resist nibbling on the marcona almonds, padron peppers, and pan con tomate while we waited. We started on a carafe of the Sierra Cantabria which was so smooth we really regretted not committing to a whole bottle from the on-set.
It’s the perfect place to have a long overdue catch up while you await your table. During the wait the friendly server kept us in the loop on an estimated waiting time and kept the wine glasses full. Her updates on remaining waiting time were also accurate, and it kept us in the loop about how much longer we had to wait. The wait never felt tedious, and the combination of updates/estimates and the availability of food and drink from the menu (almost) made waiting a pleasure!

We were a group of 3 so perhaps had to wait longer that an even numbered group but like many good things, it was worth the wait. The menu is inspired by all parts of Spanish cuisine, with dishes inspired by the food of San Sebastien to Mallorca and everywhere in between. In addition to the printed menu, Barrafina Drury Lane features daily specials. We were really craving some traditional tapas so could not resist the old favourites like patatas bravas (£5.80) and the tortilla esponala upgraded with chorizo (£7.80). We also went back for a bit more of the pan con tomate (£2.80). We love the counter-top experience-it gives you a birds eye view of the tremendous energy involved in the food preparation. The staff were very helpful and attentive throughout the meal, even indulging my feeble attempts at Spanish.

Executive head chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho is renowned for making the best tapas in London. Based on our experience, we’d have to agree. Two of us had spent time studying in Spain and the experience at Barrafina channelled the best of Iberia. An unexpected highlight was the baby gem salad with the botarga, walnuts, pancetta, and manchego (£6.80). It had the texture and flavour that leaves you asking why don’t my lunchtime salads pack this kind of punch. We also enjoyed one of the daily specials, the Middlewhite Pork Cutlet (£14.80). Overall, the meal was just one of the dining experiences you just look back on fondly-like a film that stays on your mind long after leaving the cinema.

The Hart Brothers were the pioneers behind the no reservations booking policy in London, revolutionising Soho’s foodie scene, making London dining less formal and more fun. Barrafina’s 3 locations are in close proximity, but they are not clones. Each location has a unique menu and we look forward to completing the Barrafina trifecta (The City Lane editor-in-chief Paul loves the Adelaide Street branch). The Firth street outpost of Barrafina has already nabbed a Michelin star, no easy feat for such a causal, vibrant place.

When you are battling the throngs of tourists in the West End, keep your eye on the prize: Barrafina: Drury Lane. The Soho food barons, Sam and Eddie Hart have done it again.

Barrafina Drury Lane

43 Drury Lane
London WC2B 5AJ
United Kingdom

Telephone: 020 7440 1456
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.barrafina.co.uk/

Open
Mon – Sat: 12:00pm to 3:00pm; 5:00pm to 11:00pm

Araliya, St Kilda

Chris

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11 September 2015

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MELBOURNE | In St Kilda’s revitalised Fitzroy Street is Araliya, a restaurant specialising in cuisine maybe best described as Sri Lankan fusion, and The City Lane was invited to try it. If the name sounds familiar, perhaps you might have known its previous incarnation in Hawthorn, a 30-year staple for the area.

I’ll admit that I didn’t visit their previous Hawthorn restaurant, and that I really don’t have a thorough understanding of what defines Sri Lankan food, but thankfully, neither of those things are actually a problem. Coming from award-winning Chef Sam Wedande, Araliya aims to bring together the pieces of what makes Sri Lankan cuisine, while at the same time bringing something modern and new and to the table.

But while tradition is at times only given a hat tip here, one thing that has lingered is the idea of sharing, and as I found out, it is through combinations that you’ll find the biggest rewards here.

Basil Martini

We started out with this sweet, vodka, lemon, and basil martini. It’s refreshing, strong, and quite fruity, and completely and utterly satisfying if you’re in need of a little revitalising. We had this in winter, but if it was summer, I suspect these would be walking out the door, even if you had trouble doing so.

Chilli Chocolate Cocktail

Others at our table described this as a little like a cherry ripe, and it would be a very apt description were it not for the heavy hit of chilli throughout. If you take a sip of this as is, it will likely cause you to run away screaming when the chilli kicks in. This is a drink that favours the patient so instead, pick up a stirring stick, move the chocolate around at the bottom, and then take a long deep sip. The chilli will still be there of course, but it will be joined by everything else. We think you’ll enjoy this one.

Beetroot-cured Salmon, Sichuan pickled cucumber, capers

This is a mild starter combining salmon and for a little extra kick, capers. It’s simple and I suspect probably not traditional Sri Lankan fare, but it works. And if you’re not a lover of beetroot, don’t worry, it’s more of a hint than anything.

Steamed Cabbage Rolls

Continuing the theme of combinations are the cabbage rolls. They hit all the right buttons on their own, but make sure you pick up some chilli butter before you take a bite. Go without it and you’re really only getting half the taste.

Scallops in a hopper

When these appeared on the table we were joined by Chef Wedande who explained that the shell-like containers were hoppers, rice flour pancakes commonly used with, and I’m going to heavily paraphrase here, drunk or nightclub food in Sri Lanka. But in the same way as a drunk food ingredient like pita bread can be used greatly for other things, Wedande has used these with scallops to make something a little different.

During the gap between the the starters and the mains we had a chat with Wedande. ‘Food is evolving’, he tells us when we ask him about his recipes, and there’s a real belief in this statement. After 30 years as a chef, Wedande is still curious about what he can come up with next. For example, on one particular salad a fellow guest asked him what a peculiar ingredient was. The answer? A coastal plant called saltbush. He also frequents the markets around Melbourne but he admits that a lot of what he finds he doubts he will find again. Although for Wedande, this instead becomes a chance to make something new for the week. It’s this kind of thrill that seems to drive the chef, and in our opinion, is also what makes this place a little exciting.

But moving on to the mains. For this part of the course, a large selection of sides such as Asian greens, beetroot and turnip with curry leaves, and green beans with cashew nuts were offered, along with the meat dishes, but as everything is combined, I’m going to look at it all through the lens of the meat dishes.

Steamed Fish

As you would expect, this was something quite spicy, but quite unique all the same. On speaking with the chef about this, he informed me that the restaurant’s approach is that they would prefer to run out of fish than for it not to be fresh. So, if you arrive looking for fish, make sure you get in early.

Pork Belly

This came highly recommended, and given the almost-insane popularity of pork belly these days, it’s not surprising. In this dish, combining peanuts, rockmelon, and pickled papaya, the pork belly was tender in the middle, but with thick and at-times tough edges, which I’ll admit, sounds like a negative, but actually made it more akin to a roast.

Araliya Chicken

Despite it’s simplicity, it was the chicken I kept returning to throughout the main course. It was cooked well, and while it wasn’t the flashiest of the courses, with the addition of the chilli, because everything is about combinations, it was for me the most balanced.

When the squabbles were over and the last of the mains were done, dessert was served. Our host for the evening had spoke highly of this, but based on the ingredients she had described, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect.

Steamed Coconut Custard and Banana Sorbet

Elegantly displayed, when this first appeared, we a little apprehensive to take it apart. However, what we found was that when you finally bite the bullet and do it, it pays to take a little of all the pieces. It wasn’t my favourite desert (see below for that), but it certainly set a pretty high standard.

Chilli and ginger, roasted pineapple, basil sorbet

When I was a kid, the idea of pineapple with anything was enough to make me run for the hills. It always seemed like the least interesting part of the fruit salad. Thankfully, this has an interesting twist, offering a sizeable infused hit of chilli and ginger. It’s pretty intense so I wouldn’t recommend going solo on this one, but if you’ve got a group, this might be a nice addition.

Chocolate Mousse and Sweet Potato Custard

Our night finished with this. It had been mooted from the beginning of the meal, and it didn’t disappoint. But like many of the meals at Araliya, this finds its strength when in combination. The mousse on its own is great, as is the unexpected sweet potato custard, but when combined in a single bite it brings something genuinely interesting. The flower is a nice touch too, but perhaps avoid eating that.

It’s been a long road for Araliya, and based on our conversations with the chef, it has been a road paved with experimentation. But that is kind of the charm here. They’re planning for a brunch menu soon, which could be a first for a Melbourne Sri Lankan restaurant, and Chef Wedande seems keen on keeping the rules suitably bent.

We like it here. It is a restaurant that clearly doesn’t follow the crowd, and has no interest in doing so. If you’re in St Kilda, this is an opportunity on your doorstep; if you’re anywhere else, there’s a tram stop just down the road.

Araliya

157 Fitzroy Street
St Kilda
Victoria 3182
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9078 6757
Email: n/a
Website: http://www.araliyastkilda.com.au

Open
Lunch, Thu – Sun: 12:00pm onwards
Dinner, Tue – Sun: 5:00pm to 10:30pm

S02E10 – Season 2, Episode 10

Chris

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10 September 2015

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PODCAST | In this song-filled episode, Chris begs local brewers for a Nutella-based beer but is quickly informed that there are many others already out there; Paul and Jeff manage to discover a convergence of Melbourne’s entire craft beer scene; and we discuss if a pub can reinvent itself without losing it’s character. We also talk about a bar that attracted entry simply by the font it used for its signage.

On top of all this Jeff and Chris start singing, and then realise they really shouldn’t have done so.

Featured beers: #whathopisthatnow by HopDog BeerWorks and Skeletor’s Stout by Dainton Family Brewery.

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

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THE CITY LANEEAT & TRAVEL LIKE A LOCAL

THE CITY LANEEAT & TRAVEL LIKE A LOCAL

Sunday Roast ($25.00)

Beef Brisket ($18.00) and Mac & Cheese ($4.00)

Chipotle Glazed BBQ Beef Rib ($26.00)

The Gem

The Mill House

Scrambled Eggs On Sourdough with Yorkshire Bacon (£9.50)

Organic Porridge With Grated Apple, Toasted Coconut & Honey (£6.00)

St Clements

Cadbury Joy’O’Clock

Iberico Ham, House Ricotta, Toast ($23.00)

Beef Tartar & Oyster Mayo ($22.00)

Hot & Cold Scallop, House Duck Ham, English Pea ($26.00)

Buttermilk Fried Quail, Horseradish, Dill Salt ($22.00)

Orange, Chocolate & Honeycomb ($14.00)

Cure

Togarashi Fries ($9.50)

Beer-Battered Flathead Burger / Pork Belly Burger / Chicken Burger ($18.00 each, Served With Fries)

Chilli Pork Ribs ($21.00)

Howler

Barrafina Drury Lane

Basil Martini

Chilli Chocolate Cocktail

Beetroot-cured Salmon, Sichuan pickled cucumber, capers

Steamed Cabbage Rolls

Scallops in a hopper

Steamed Fish

Pork Belly

Araliya Chicken

Steamed Coconut Custard and Banana Sorbet

Chilli and ginger, roasted pineapple, basil sorbet

Chocolate Mousse and Sweet Potato Custard

Araliya

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