MELBOURNE | The hidden space on Saxon Street, behind Sydney Road, has been home to a few quality venues since it was first converted into a bar in the form of Host in 2016. It became Bar Spontana, when owners Josh Hodges and Caleb Baker took over the lease last year.
Given that the duo’s other venue, Mr West, is one of Australia’s best craft beer spots, and one of Melbourne’s best neighbourhood bars, expectations were high for Bar Spontana. Most figured that it would be an awesome bar, which it is. What wasn’t expected was that it would also end up being one of Melbourne’s best Thai restaurants.
I’d been in before for pop-ups and events, but never for regular service, which I recently rectified. Head chef Pipat Yodmunee has put together a menu which draws inspiration from regional Thai dishes, ferments, and his Issan mother’s recipes. It’s contemporary Thai food, with real attention to detail and presentation. Things cooked over the grill feature prominently, and there’s no holding back when it comes to the boldness of flavours.
Pipat also doesn’t hold back when it comes to heat. The default level of the dishes at Bar Spontana is “Thai spicy”, but the kitchen is happy to tone things down if that level of heat isn’t for you.
It’s food that works well as a snack at the bar, or as part of a full meal. Skewers include things like sai oua beef sausage with chilli, lime leaf, and turmeric; and pork jowl with tamarind, coriander root, and garlic. Betel leaf cups filled with beef tartare, ginger, lime, coconut, and peanuts are a must try. So too, the nam khao tod. It’s a wonderfully funky mix of fermented pork, crispy stick rice, mint, and peanuts.
For larger plates, try the kanom jeen. It’s a fragrant, DIY mix and match curry plate of lions mane mushroom, chilli, turmeric, coconut, and fermented rice noodles.
The drinks list is unsurprisingly brilliant. As the name Bar Spontana suggests, there’s a focus on things featuring spontaneous fermentation. It’s a perfect match for Thai food. The theme weaves through the list of local craft beers, local and global wines, and cocktails. Try the “Weekend Warrior”. It’s a sparkling sour cocktail made with lemon and rhubarb spirit, vanilla and cinnamon whey, whole egg, and a splash of Holly’s Garden ÜberBrut sparkling.
Bar Spontana
4 Saxon Street
Brunswick
Victoria 3056
Australia
Telephone: n/a
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Tue – Thu: 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Fri: 5:00pm to 11:00pm
Sat: 1:00pm to 11:00pm