Georges on Waymouth, Adelaide CBD

ADELAIDE | Almost five years since I’d last been to Adelaide, I finally got around to a return visit. A quick weekend in the city centre, and the Adelaide Hills. A lot has opened in that time, and my list was full of interesting places to check out. For my one dinner in town, however, I took a different approach and booked not somewhere new (albeit it was new to me), but at Adelaide institution, Georges on Waymouth.

When George and Voula Kasimatis first opened the restaurant in 2002, the aim was to give Adelaideans a modern European bistro experience – great food and wine, rooted in tradition, with friendly, cheerful, and passionate service. Given that the restaurant is still around after 24 years, clearly George and Voula are doing something right.

The space, which dates back to the 1920s and was renovated in 2023, features high ceilings, exposed timber beams, wooden floorboards, and dual mezzanine levels. Furniture, artworks and decorations nod to the restaurant’s Mediterranean theme, and George and Voula’s Greek heritage. When George noticed me looking at some interesting olive oil bottles lined along one of the walls, he came over and passionately described the producers, the olive oil, and the personal connection.

It’s this attentiveness that’s apparent when you dine at Georges, the kind of hospitality that you only get from a restaurant that’s owner-operated. It’s clear watching George and the other staff work the dining floor and engage with customers, that old fashioned hospitality is at the heart of the restaurant’s success. You get the sense that everyone working here is enjoying themselves just as much as the diners.

Of course, excellent service is irrelevant if the food isn’t up to scratch. Suffice to say, the food at Georges is excellent. The menu draws inspiration from George and Voula’s Greek background and the wider Mediterranean region. The kitchen, led by chef Cameron Coutts, offers a seasonal menu featuring local South Australian and Australian produce. Bread, pasta, and more are made in house each day.

There are dishes that have been on the menu since the start, favourites from menus past, and new dishes. Nibble on some moreish Voytek’s rosemary and potato sourdough with Virginia extra virgin olive oil and a side of taramasalata while you decide what to eat. It’s named for local baker, Voytek Sadlocha, who supplied the starter when Georges first opened. A punchy, crisp-edged mortadella skewer cooked over coals, with Guindilla pepper, and gremolata is a top choice, as is the house made crumpet. The latter is topped with creamy Shark Bay crab, chives, chilli, and crème fraiche.

Smaller plates equally impress – from the textural hand diced Mooloolaba tuna tartare with smoked chilli, Jerusalem artichoke, labneh, and chives; to the pillowy house made ricotta gnudi, with parsley crema, peas, and pecorino. The chargrilled South Australian octopus, served in almond ajo blanco with thinly sliced pickled fennel, and cucumber, is one of the best octopus dishes I’ve eaten all year.

When it comes to large plates, the signature lamb press is what one probably ‘should’ go for on a first visit, however I couldn’t look past the charred cabbage dolmades, filled with braised rice, topped with dill, plated atop a bed of slow roasted tomato sugo. It’s a spin on the classic that absolutely works. To mop up the excess sugo, a serve of the wonderfully crispy, fluffy fried potatoes with rosemary salt, is a must.

Desserts lean classic, with options like hazelnut dacquoise, portokalopita, and cheese. I opted for the dark chocolate fondant with malt ice cream and hazelnut crumble, and was not disappointed. A really solid example of a no-fuss dessert that I certainly didn’t need, but am so glad I ordered.

There’s a small selection of classic and house cocktails, local and Greek beers, and an impressive little gin selection. The focus of the drinks list is on wine, with a wine list featuring interesting producers with stories to tell, from around the world. South Australia and Greece are a particular focus, with George championing local producers, and those in Greece that aren’t so well known in Australia. Through his wine import business, Byzantine Wine Merchants, George seeks out some of the most interesting Greek wines out there, with an eye to the food on offer at Georges.