MELBOURNE | Little House is a wine bar on Smith Street that isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel. Rather, owner, Richard Duncan, has created a venue that gets the essentials right. A decent selection of wine, beer, and cocktails, and a seasonal, European-leaning modern Australian menu made using quality local produce. I was recently invited in to take a look.
The long, narrow space is warmly lit, dominated by the long bar that extends from the entrance down to the open kitchen at the rear. Opposite the bar, it’s a cream-washed brick wall, with seats and tables. It’s the kind of interior that’s inviting, rather than flashy.
Head Chef Federico “Freddy” Carnevale’s menu can be enjoyed a-la-carte, or as a chef’s choice (min 2 pax) tasting menu. A fun way to start, or snack if you’re just visiting Little House for a drink, is the take on chicharron. It sees fresh pasta deep fried until puffed and crispy, dusted with a marinara-inspired seasoning. Tasmanian abalone with smoked potato and kale is another tasty snack. The hand-made burrata itself is excellent, but be aware of the heavy-handed dose of lemon aspen that overpowers the charcoal roasted peppers it’s served on.
For larger dishes, it’s things like brick chicken with eucalyptus honey, and lemon myrtle; a cheeseburger, and juicy BBQ wagyu skirt ms7+, with balsamic jus, and mizuna (Japanese mustard greens). To finish, the custard flan, topped with dark chocolate ganache, and a generous pour of Cynar caramel, is delicious.
Bar Manager Ben Jensen’s cocktail list follows the same ethos as the kitchen, while sommelier Chris Winter has developed a sharp wine list featuring local and international drops. Wines from Victorian producer Konpira Maru are on tap, and excellent value at $12 a glass.
Little House
98 Smith Street
Collingwood
Victoria 3066
Australia
Telephone: n/a
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Website
Open
Tue – Wed: 4:30pm to 9:00pm
Thu: 4:30pm to 9:30pm
Fri – Sat: 4:30pm to 10:00pm