MELBOURNE | R.H.M.S Patris is the name of the ship that brought Maria Vamvakinou, along with a host of other Greek and Southern European immigrants, to Melbourne between 1959 and 1975. Now, it’s also the name of a new Greek/Eastern European restaurant in Brunswick, owned by Maria, who went on to have a successful career as a Federal MP, and her family.
Step inside, and it feels like you’ve stepped into the family home. The restaurant is adorned with retro furniture and trinkets from the family home. A bookshelf is lined with books that reflect the family’s passion for food, culture, and humanitarianism, The walls are adorned with abstract prints and paintings, many of which were created by Maria’s Cypriot-born husband, Dr. Michalis Michael.
Inside the kitchen, you’ll find Maria and Michalis’ son Stavros, and son-in-law, Johnny. Together, they’ve created a menu that takes inspiration predominantly from regional Cypriot specialities, with influences from the wider Eastern European and Mediterranean region. Traditional family dishes sit side by side with new creations. Stella runs front of house, enthusiastically taking guests through the menu, sharing the story of the food and the restaurant.
It’s all made using top quality local and Greek produce. Olive oil is pressed by Stavros and Stella’s aunt in the Peloponnese, using olives from her own tree. The food is humble, and delicious, showcasing the quality of the produce. Fried calamari is served with ladolemono for a big citrus hit. Okra, with caramelised onion and sumac, is a must try, with just the right balance of crunch and mucilaginousness. Zucchini fritters with crumbed fetta, are surprisingly light.
Eliópita, filled with roasted onion, kalamáta, olives, parsley, and mint, is a flaky, parcel-like take on the favourite. For something larger, you can’t go wrong with tender, slow cooked lamb shoulder with pomegranate glaze, and zhug; and a serving of roasted lemon potatoes.
To drink, it’s a tight selection of Greek-themed cocktails and mocktails, local and Greek wine, local beer and cider, coffee, and tea. The pomegranate sour, which blends Starward Single Malt Whisky, pomegranate, and lemon syrup, is a great choice.
Before you leave, check out the counter for a selection of products for home. There’s things like Johnny’s take on chilli oil, mushroom pâté, and biscuits made by 13-year-old Brunswick local, Sylvana Tramontana. Also be sure to keep an eye out for things like cooking classes, themed dinners, and cultural events that Patris occasionally hosts.
Patris
140 Barkly Street
Brunswick
Victoria 3057
Australia
Telephone: n/a
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Thu – Fri: 6:00pm to 10:00pm