THESSALONIKI | Visitors to Greece tend to head straight to Athens and the country’s Mediterranean islands when travelling. In the mountainous north of the country, however, you’ll find the city that Greeks head to when they want to eat the best food in the country.
That city is Thessaloniki, which was designated as a UNESCO ‘City of Gastronomy’, in 2001. What makes the food in Thessaloniki so good? It’s the city’s long and diverse history. People from all over have moved through and settled in this region over thousands of years. It was part of Ancient Greece, and the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires.
Greek, Turkish, Sephardic Jewish, and wider Balkan influences, amongst others, have all had a part to play in making the cuisine of Thessaloniki what it is today. The land in northern Greece is very fertile, which lends itself to food that showcases the amazing fresh produce of the region. Some of the best wines in the country also come from this region.
In this Thessaloniki Food Guide, updated as at August 2024, I’ll tell you the places to visit if you want to experience the best food and drink in Thessaloniki.
I’ve placed the tips in alphabetical order, and they’re all worth checking out. Are any of your favourites listed below? Are there any places that you think should be on my Thessaloniki food guide?
Agora Modiano
Built between 1922 and 1925, Agora Modiano (Modiano Market) is a covered market that’s conveniently located in the centre of Thessaloniki. It’s long been a popular place for those looking for top quality local produce, and as a community meeting place.
Reopening in 2022 after a major restoration and renovation, the market today is home to over 75 vendors, including fresh produce stalls, butchers, speciality food vendors, tavernas, and bars.
Charilaos
There are plenty of traditional nut shops in Thessaloniki. They’re where you go when you want not just nuts, but things like legumes, flour, semolina, rice, herbs, spices and the like. Charilaos is popular with locals, and is known for its top quality products, and knowledgeable staff.
Chatzifotiou / Hatzifotiou
Chatzifotiou is an artisan patisserie and chocolatier that’s been around since 1946. They’re famed for their high quality, delicious Greek sweet treats, and have a huge variety of things to choose from. A must try are their famed pourakia (wafer cigars stuffed with praline cream). There are several versions, my favourite is the one coated in dark chocolate.
Διαγώνιος 1977
This no-nonsense name of this restaurant (it’s on a diagonal street and opened in 1977), carries through to the menu. It’s a traditional Greek taverna that’s super popular with locals, who come here for two specific dishes. They’re soutzoukakia Smyrneika, oblong shaped, generously herbed/spiced, pan fried meatballs served with chilli flakes; and pork gyros. Order both.
Deka Trapezia
If you want to try Cretan food in Thessaloniki, one of your best options is Deka Trapezia. It’s a taverna from Cretan chef Manolis Papoutsakis, and sees traditional dishes reimagined in a contemporary manner. The focus is on small and share plates, with an unwavering dedication to quality ingredients.
Dekaepta Cafe
Thessaloniki is home to several great speciality coffee shops, and Dekaepta is one of the best. It’s a modern spot with a full range of espresso and filter-based coffee drinks made using locally roasted, ethically sourced beans. They also have cocktails and a small food menu of rotating seasonal plates.
Father Coffee & Vinyl
Another great spot for coffee in Thessaloniki is Father Coffee & Vinyl. Along with great coffee, they also offer a selection of pastries and. As for the second part of the name, it’s not just that there’s a great selection of vinyl being played over the speakers. Father Coffee & Vinyl also doubles as a record store.
MIA Feta Bar
The Kourellas family have been making feta, along with a variety of other dairy products, at their Grevena farm since the 1960s. At casual restaurant MIA Feta Bar, their feta and other products are showcased across a variety of dishes. There’s also a retail section where you can purchase Kourellas Dairy products for home.
Bougatsa Bantis
Thessaloniki is famed for it bougatsa – sweet and savoury fillings sandwiched between thin, flaky layers of filo pastry. Bougatsa Bantis is a small bakery, owned and run by trained pastry chef Philippos Bandis, whose carrying on the business that was started by his father Dimitris in 1969, and run by his dad Dimitris before Philippos took over. Philippos’ bougatsa is based on his grandfather, Philippos’s recipes, and is wonderful.
Bougatsa Giannis
Another popular spot for bougatsa in Thessaloniki is Bougatsa Giannis. Aristotelis and Efstathia Papadopoulou opened the store in 1996, naming it after their son, Giannis. Today, it’s run by Giannis and his brother George. You’ll find all of the popular sweet and savoury flavours here, along with the popular house speciality with cream and Merenda (basically Greek Nutella).
ERGON Agora
ERGON Agora is one of the best spots in town to enjoy contemporary Greek cuisine made using the best quality produce available. It’s a large, indoor concept market space that hosts a restaurant and cafe, greengrocer, butcher, fishmonger, and bakery. Everything is sourced from small, independent Greek producers, with a focus on quality.
Expect things like a selection of fresh caught fish, cooked how you like; orzo with seafood, fresh tomatoes, and herbs; and smoked sardine gyros in ladopita with spicy herbed tomato sauce.
Giannoula
The taverna is an integral part of Greek culture, and one of the best ways to become acquainted with Greek cuisine. They’re unfussy spots, with simple décor and extensive menus featuring all the classic Greek dishes.
Giannoula is a great example of one. It opened in 1974, a family run taverna named for the matriarch of the family. Today the taverna is run by Stavros, Giannoula’s son, his wife, Katerina, and his brother, Nikos. The atmosphere is homely and welcoming, with the same homestyle recipes that have always been used.
Kapani Market
Kapani Market is the oldest fresh produce market in Thessaloniki. It opened as a flour market (the Turkish term for flour market is “un kapan”) in the 15th century, during the Ottoman era. Today, you’ll find an assortment of top quality produce like locally grown vegetables and fruits, spices, meat and fish, nuts, olives, and more.
Mimis
Mimis is a no-nonsense gyros spot in the centre of Thessaloniki that’s been a favourite amongst locals since opening in 1974. Named after the original owner, today Mimis is run by his son, Giorgaros. You have a choice or pork or chicken as your protein (there’s also a vegetarian option), a selection of fillings and sauces, wrapped in a soft, warm, fluffy pita. Simple, quality ingredients done right
Mourga
Chef Ioannis Loukakis opened Mourga in 2017. It’s a small, welcoming venue, not too dissimilar than the city’s typical tavernas, and is a must visit in Thessaoniki. The menu, which changes daily depending on what’s good at the organic markets each day, is based on classic flavours and seasonal produce. There’s no meat on the menu, just fish and vegetables.
Dishes are simple at heart, ones that allow the quality of the produce to shine with flawless execution. Think shrimp with two soft boiled eggs, and galotyri cheese, served sizzling in the pan; and steamed mussels with angel hair pasta in a creamy avgolemono-like broth.
Mourouzi Patisserie
Mourouzi is a traditional Greek sweet shop and patisserie shop. Visit for no-fuss, quality versions of classis treats like sugared almonds, pastafrola (jam-filled shortcrust pies), and moist portokalopita (syrupy filo orange cake).
Nea Folia
Nea Folia is another Greek taverna that’s worth your time. Traditional at heart and in feeling, it’s actually relatively new compared to the others on the list, having opened in the 2000s. The menu is smaller than a classic taverna, with a focus on more contemporary dishes that play homage to the classics. Be sure to try something from their speciality aged cheese selection.
Ouzeri Tsinari
Tsinari has been around since 1865, and provides visitors a window into Ottoman Greece. The building’s interior and exterior are virtually unchanged since those times, and the original wood-fired oven is still in use. The menu features traditional taverna fare done right. Things like Greek salad, pan fried halloumi, dolmadakia, souvlaki, and fresh seafood that’s grilled to order over charcoal.
Sebriko / Semprkio
If you’re looking for a contemporary, eclectic take on Greek cuisine, Sebriko is a great choice. The focus in on showcasing the best seasonal regional produce along with local craft beer and wines from small, independent Greek producers. The restaurant also doubles as a small grocery store, offering many of the produce used in the kitchen, for home.
+ ΤροΦή | Sintrofi
Another of chef Ioannis Loukakis’ restaurants that’s worth checking out is Sintrofi. Visit for a constantly rotating selection of dishes made using the best quality produce from around Greece. Everything is made on site, from scratch, with dishes cooked over an open wood-fired grill.
Utopia Taproom
Craft brewers Utopia opened Utopia Taproom in 2023, and quicky established itself as the best place for lovers of craft beer in Thessaloniki. Across the venue’s 13 taps, you’ll find Utopia’s beers, and a selection of beers from the best craft breweries across the Balkans.
There are regular events and tap takeovers, and an impressive selection of bottles and cans in the fridge. You’ll find highly rated beers from the region’s breweries, along with collaborations and limited releases from further abroad.
Valenio
Valantis Lamprianidis has been involved in Thessaloniki’s hospitality industry for almost 30 years, and is one of Greece’s most highly regarded coffee experts. Valenio is his venue, and is where you’ll find some of the best coffee in the city. His contemporary take on Greek coffee is well worth a try.
Along with coffee, Valenio is the place to visit if you want to pick up some coffee equipment or coffee-related products. You can even take part in a coffee masterclass if you’re interested.
Vogatsikou 3
Conveniently named for its address, Vogatsikou 3 is my favourite cocktail bar in Thessaloniki. It’s a vibrant, but not too hectic space where you can get excellent versions of the classics, plus unique house creations. House creations rotate with the seasons, and are based on a theme. When I visited, the theme was “The Simpsons”, with artworks created by a local tattoo artist.
It’s more than just a gimmick, with each cocktail considered and linked to the wider theme in a way that’s explained to you as it’s served. Vogatsikou 3 is also open during the day as a cafe, with a globally influenced food menu.
Have you been to Thessaloniki before? What are your favourite things to eat there, and your favourite place to eat them? What would you add to this Thessaloniki Food Guide?