MELBOURNE | Rocco Esposito has been involved in Melbourne’s hospitality industry since 1998, the year he migrated to the city from his hometown of Puglia. He’s worked in some of the city’s top restaurants, and owned and operated Beechworth’s Wardens, and winery, Project 49.
Bar Rosella, which opened almost three years ago, is the evolution and reincarnation of Rocco and Lisa’s Collingwood restaurant and events space, Project 49. I was recently invited in by Rocco to check it out. Bar Rosella is more intimate than Project 49, with rustic feel. A long and narrow interior leads to the rear courtyard, and upstairs to a private dining room. Polished concrete, natural materials, wine bottles, Italian produce and pantry items are hallmarks of the space.
On the menu, you’ll find a tight selection of classic dishes and seasonal creations, drawn from, and inspired by Rocco’s Puglian heritage. To begin, its things like cured meats (the mortadella and wagyu bresaola are particularly sublime), crumbed, fried, and meat stuffed olive all’ascolana; and fave e cicoria (fava bean purée with sauteed chicory). Rocco explains each dish with a detail and passion that can’t help but to excite you about what you’re about to eat.
Moving on to larger dishes, the signature spaghetti all’assassina is a must order. Spaghetti is cooked like risotto with passata stock, garlic, chilli and Napoli sauce. It’s a spicy, texturally diverse delight. The surprisingly light fried seafood medley, fritto misto di mare, is another great choice; so too, the smoky-grilled veal cutlet served with a loose tomato-based sauce and olives. For dessert, the classic choice of tiramisu, scooped tableside from a large tray, is a good one.
The wine list features Italian wines, and drops from Victoria’s High County, including Rocco’s own label. You’ll find lesser known varietals as well as the favourites, plus an assortment of aperitivos, digestives, and the like. I highly recommend you to drawn upon Rocco’s extensive knowledge (he spent many years as Vue de Monde’s wine director) and let him guide as to what will match best with your food.
Bar Rosella
229 Gertrude Street
Fitzroy
Victoria 3065
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9530 5839
E-mail: n/a
Website
Open
Tue – Fri: 12:00pm to 4:00pm, 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Sat: 12:00am to 10:00pm