MELBOURNE | Wilson Avenue, the little street connecting Jewell Station to Sydney Road, has changed since I moved to Melbourne in 2012. A nondescript mish-mash of old warehouses, run-down worker’s cottages, and “interesting” characters has given way to a tidy street-scape lined with apartments, and an assortment of thriving small businesses. It’s an encapsulation of the gentrification of the neighbourhood.
One of these small businesses is café, Beautiful Jim Key. Named for “the world’s smartest horse” in the 1900s (there’s a book about it on the communal table), owners and life-partners Josh Murphy and Priyam Chovhan, have created a space that’s quickly become a neighbourhood favourite. Like the namesake horse, the café is curious, playful, and welcoming.
The space is light-filled and playful, with vintage blue stools, light fittings, and 15 colourful glass balloons that you can’t miss. The duo bring experience running their West Footscray spot, Harley & Rose, to the table. Combined with Josh’s skill in the kitchen, honed working at venues across Andrew McConnel and Joe McGann’s Trader House group, it’s easy to see why Beautiful Jim Key is popular with locals.
Dishes are simple at heart, but with a fine dining sensibility. The all-day menu features things like toast topped with curried soft-boiled eggs, and golden mango chutney; brown rice congee with shiitake, green onion, and sesame; and my favourite, the smoked trout, hash brown, soft white cheese, herb, and lemon plate.
You’re also covered for classics like avocado on toast (with sesame, stracciatella, tomato, and za’atar; a meaty or vegetarian ‘big breakfast’ plate; and the popular smoked sausage, cheese, tomato, BBQ sauce, and mayo potato bun roll. Extras include things like extra sausage, sunny-side up eggs, and hash browns.
‘Lunchier’ options, like cold poached chicken salad, baked gnocchi, and a golden fried fish burger join the menu from midday. To drink, it’s things like Fieldwork coffee, juices, and teas. There’s also an assortment of cocktails, beer, and wine if you’re looking for something stronger.
Beautiful Jim Key
7 Wilson Avenue
Brunswick
Victoria 3056
Australia
Telephone: 0400 124 414
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Tue – Sun: 8:00am to 3:00pm