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MELBOURNE | Citrico Cocina is a Fitroy North restaurant that aims to be a neighbourhood local with a South American twist. I was recently invited to check it out, and having fallen in love with South American food during my travels through Chile, Peru, and Colombia, I was keen to check it out. The restaurant is owned by Nan Kroll and her Chilean partner Julio Forteza, and inspired by Forteza’s heritage and the couple’s many travels back to the region. It’s housed in a terraced building that dates back to 1904. There’s high ceilings, floor tiles, a lot of exposed brick and timber, and splashes of colour throughout. It combines for a space that’s very welcoming.
The menu is ostensibly Chilean, but there are Peruvian and Argentinean twists as well. Those who enjoyed the Peruvian food at Harley House and Piqueos will be familiar with head chef Daniel Salcedo, who works his magic across the menu. The menu is split into Abrebocas (small plates), La Cevicheria (raw seafood), Grande (larger wood and charcoal grilled asado dishes). There’s also sides and dessert.
For starters, there’s an assortment of delights like three kinds of emapandas – beef, pork, and corn, that are done Chilean style and are lighter than the Argentinian style you might be a familiar with. There’s also things like pork croquetas, and charred octopus. The empanadas are particularly delicious.
For raw seafood, try the ceviche nikkei – Citrico’s take on the Japanese x Peruvian fusion that’s common in Peru. The version here contains thick cut pieces of tuna, blood orange cured prawn, cucumber, avocado, white soy dressing, and those tasty big pieces of roasted corn that are so hard to find outside of South America.
Moving onto the asado dishes, the Entrana is a real highlight. It’s a 250g piece of Rangers Valley grain fed skirt steak served simply with chimichurri and a lemon wedge. The meat is simply seasoned with salt and has a wonderful char that only the wood and charcoal of the asado can provide. Also very appealing (although I didn’t order it) is the camarones – chimichurri marinated whole tiger prawns with pangrattato and charred witlof.
A few salads, veg, and potato dishes grace the sides menu, and it’s here you’ll find one of the highlights of the entire menu. That would be the heart of palm salad with Frisee lettuce, avocado, and smoked tomatoes. A texturally diverse, umami laded banger of a salad. For dessert it’s a few sweet items like picarones (doughnuts) and alfajores.
If you’re thirsty, you’re well catered to here. There’s a selection of pisco from Chile, Peru, and even Australia, along with a range of pisco based cocktails and classic cocktails. There’s also a wine list that focuses on Australian and South American wines, along with a few South American and local beers. There’s even beer from Chilean craft brewery Kross, which you don’t see often in this country.
Citrico Cocina
376 Queens Parade
Fitzroy North
Victoria 3068
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9482 1482
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Mon, Wed – Thu: 5:00pm to 11:00pm
Fri – Sun: 12:00pm to 11:00pm