Hanoia, Melbourne CBD

MELBOURNE | Springvale restaurants, Gác Bếp and Quán Lửa, have a reputation among Melbourne’s Vietnamese diaspora for serving up some of the best Northern Vietnamese food in Melbourne. Owner, Hung, who hails from the region, has long wanted to bring his food and culture to a wider audience, and with the opening of Hanoia, in Melbourne’s CBD, that dream is now a reality.

Hidden up a set of unassuming stairs on level two of the Tetis (I prefer to call it ‘Tetris’) Building, Hanoia is a casual, vibrant spot with colourful murals designed to replicate the feeling of casual dining in Hanoi. Service is efficient, and food comes out fast.

If you’ve been to Hanoi, there’s a lot on the menu that’ll be familiar to you, including several dishes not often seen in Melbourne. If the flavours of the north are new to you, you’re in for a treat. The menu blends flavours and recipes that Hung grew up eating, accentuated by light, balanced flavours, with less sweetness and heat than the food of the south.

The charcoal-grilled street food that Gác Bếp and Quán Lửa are known for carry across to Hanoia. Bún chả Hà Nội is a highlight, featuring smoky charcoal-grilled pork meatballs and belly served in nước chấm with pickles, alongside rice vermicelli noodles and fresh herbs. It’s a must-order. If you want to sample a whole lot of things, grab the mẹt siêu to. It’s a large platter of fried tofu, crispy spring rolls, dồi huyết (blood sausage), roast pork, grilled pork belly, pork intestine, and bánh tôm (prawn fritters), served with mắm tôm, a fermented shrimp paste dipping sauce with a big umami hit.

Another popular dish, which I’ve tried in Vietnam, but not here, is the chả cá lã vọng. It’s a bubbling hot pot cooked tableside, filled with turmeric-marinated catfish, dill, and spring onions. It is served with rice vermicelli noodles, peanuts, and mắm tôm. I’ll definitely be returning for this one.

Other dishes include things like gỏi bắp cải gà xé (a vibrant shredded chicken and cabbage salad), bún ốc (Hanoi-style snail noodle soup), and bún chả chan. The latter is a take on bún chả hà nội that sees the ingredients served as a soup.

To drink, it’s classic options like Vietnamese coffee served in a variety of ways, and house-made fresh tropical fruit and coconut based juices and sodas.

Most of the menu comes in around the $20 mark per main, making a meal at Hanoia an affordable option. My advice is to over-order, and bring home leftovers for the next day.