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MELBOURNE | Hiatus is a cafe in Kew that’s thrown out the script when it comes to what a Melbourne cafe circa 2018 should be and is doing its own thing. Owner Simon Tammesild (ex Stokehouse and Mr Miyagi) and head chef Rory Greenwood-McNeair (ex Feast of Merit, Pei Modern and Attica) have teamed up to convert the space formerly home to Six Slices Pizza Bar into something very different. We were invited to check out the new opening, and were interested to see just how different Hiatus is.
The focus at Hiatus is on sustainability and low waste, and this ethos drives every aspect of Hiatus’ operation. Produce is sustainably sourced from local producers, with native ingredients and plants playing a starring role throughout the menu. Things that would normally be thrown out are used in novel ways here. Carrot tops, leaves, stems and the like are fermented, pickled, and turned into dust amongst other things. The team work regularly with local producers to find out the best ways to reduce waste, and the hyper seasonal menu changes regularly.
The interior is different to most Melbourne cafes too. It’s a white, open space with a huge sunroof taking up much of the roof. Combined with white tiles, wood panelling (also white), and natural materials, the space is very warm and welcoming. Out the back is an open, dog friendly courtyard with picnic tables.
We asked Simon what his favourite dish on the menu was and he pointed us to the corn and crab omelette, which we were eyeing off from the start. The thin omelette is wrapped around a filling of chilli ketchup, baby corn, and leeks, and is very delicious with a real kick to it. The other dish we opted for were the pumpkin hotcakes – dense, with a texture slightly reminiscent of American southern-style biscuits, served in a sauce of native plum, persimmon, crushed wattle seed, ginger custard, and dill. The pancakes were a real winner, with each bite providing a mixture of wonderfully balanced familiar and unfamiliar flavours.
Other dishes include things like heirloom carrots with lentil puree, wild rice, peanuts, and pickled ginger dressing, and a salt bush bagel filled with confit turkey, artichoke, broad beans, and peas. If you really do want something familiar, there’s always the option of ‘eggs your way’, served with toasted brioche soldiers and your choice of sides like bacon, avocado, and dill pickles.
Coffee beans come from Coffee Bird (the people behind Omar and the Marvellous Coffee Bird). Espresso based drinks are pulled on a stylish Synesso machine while filter is also available. There’s also tea, kombucha, and a few house made smoothies. There’s no alcohol on the menu yet, but once the pending liquor license is approved Hiatus plan to stock a small selection of local beer and wine.
If you want smashed avocado on toast, or one of those ridiculously sweet dessert panna cottas which seem to be all range on breakfast menus across the city at the moment, Hiatus is not the place for you. However, if you want innovative food, flavours you might have not tasted before, and familiar ingredients presented in unfamiliar ways, Hiatus is exactly where you want to be.
Hiatus
117 High Street
Kew
Victoria 3101
Australia
Telephone: 0491 027 139
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Mon – Sun: 7:00am to 4:00pm