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WARRAGUL | Hogget Kitchen is based in Warragul, and is a collaboration between head chef and owner Trevor Perkins, and Gippsland natural wine maestros Patrick Sullivan and William Downie. We were invited to visit when it first opened earlier this year, but weren’t able to make it until recently. The large, open restaurant has big windows that look out to the Strzelecki Hills of the Great Diving Range. We visited at night but it was easy to see how stunning the view would be on a bright, sunny day.
The focus at Hogget is on nose to tail dining, and showcasing the surrounding area’s fantastic produce. The restaurant gets in whole animals from Gippsland Natural Beef and Moyarra free-range pork, and butchers them on site. Perkins’ father is the butcher, while his mum and other local growers provide much of the produce. Once butchered, the main cuts are left to age in a large cabinet, which is visible from the dining area, while the rest of the animal is used to make all sorts of things – charcuterie, pig’s head terrine, pate, and lamb bacon just to name a few. Seafood is also sourced locally, for example Morton Bay Bugs from Lakes Entrance.
The highlight for us is the lamb platter, featuring an array of cuts of lamb cooked in various ways, cooked in a few way, including in an American style smoker, which Trevor built himself. All of the cuts are perfectly cooked, full of flavour, and tender. Served with vegetables cooked in the fat dripping off the meat, and creamy, buttery mashed potatoes, this dish represents everything that’s good about Hogget on one plate. Another highlight is the charcuterie board, featuring things like capocollo and bresaola, salami, and terrine.
For dessert, a must order is the baked lemon tart, with locally grown lemon myrtle used in a snappy granita on the side. It has a nice level of citrus tang, isn’t too sweet, and just the right wobbly texture. The chocolate pudding, while tasty, doesn’t wow quite like the fantastic lemon tart. The cheese board, including a very tasty locally made sheep’s milk soft cheese, is also a good choice.
As you’d expect from a regional restaurant, the wine list tends towards the local, with many of Sullivan and Downie’s wines featured. There’s of course beer, spirits and cocktails, but when you’re this close to the source, it’s hard to go past a good minimal intervention wine. And if you’re still up for a drink after your meal, Wild Dog Winery is located directly next door.
We had heard mixed comments about the service at Hogget, but with a few months of operations behind them, and a new restaurant manager Emily, we didn’t experience any issues with the service. Emily and her team were attentive not just to us, but to all of the tables as we observed the going ons of the restaurant while dining. It’s clear that there’s a real passion for what’s being done at Hogget amongst the entire team.
Hogget isn’t a fine dining restaurant, it’s about simple, rustic, honest cooking done right, and getting the most out of fantastic produce. A mixed crowd from all walks of life when we were dining further emphasises that Hogget is a welcoming restaurant where anyone can feel comfortable and get a good feed.
Hogget Kitchen
6 Farrington Close
Warragul
Victoria 3820
Australia
Telephone: (03) 5623 2211
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Wed – Thu: 11:00am to 11:00pm
Fri – Sun: 7:00am to 11:00pm