MELBOURNE | JUNI is a new, casual and contemporary restaurant by chef Michael Lambie, and marks his return to Melbourne’s dining scene since he sold his restaurant, Lucy Lui, just before COVID. I was recently invited in to check it out.
Housed in an old Officeworks, the large space features a bar section at the front, cavernous main dining room, a mezzanine private dining space. The slick space is inspired by 1960s Hong Kong and Blade Runner 2049. Multi coloured LED lights with an emphasis on red hues, projections on the wall, and exposed ducting combine to dramatic effect.
The menu is reflective of what Michael likes to cook, and represents the natural evolution from Lucy Lui. Snacks and larger dishes are designed to share, and draw influence from the flavours and dishes of the wider South East Asian and East Asian regions. Diners get a full view of the long, open kitchen, which extends along one side of the main dining space.
Hiramasa kingfish with green jalapeno nam jim and yuzu is vibrant pick of the small dishes, full of zip with lashes of heat. Also great from the smaller dishes are the crispy tapioca Moreton Bay Bug tails with betel leaves, nori dust, and citrus ponzu. Crayfish dumpling with ginger and green onion dressing, and fresh coriander, also excite the tastebuds.
For larger dishes, I’m a big fan of the slow roasted Cape Grim beef short rib, served in a thick Penang-style curry with shallots, lemongrass and Thai basil. Also check out the delicious vegan roasted Japanese pumpkin and egg plant in red curry with lychee and hot mint. For dessert, the refreshing mango sorbet with pearl sago and tarragon meringue is a winner.
To drink, there’s an extensive selection of beer, wine, and spirits. The highlight is the cocktail and mocktail list, which draws upon the same influences as the food. I’m a big fan of the sago margarita, which blends coconut fat-washed tequila, yuzushu, mango oleo, lime, and coconut salt. The cendol old fashioned, a mix of sticky rice bourbon, palm sugar, and pandan bitters, is also great.
JUNI
136 Exhibition Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia
Telephone: (03) 8663 3422
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Mon – Sun: 12:00pm to 12:00am