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MELBOURNE | Mama Manoush a Lebanese restaurant in Brunswick East, occupying the site formerly home to modern Mexican restaurant Lady Carolina. It’s owned by Elizabeth Kairouz, who used to run Mama Manoush in a smaller premises on Nicholson Street in Fitzroy up until last year. Those who visited Lady Carolina will recognise much about the space, which has retains the same basic layout but tones things down a little. The courtyard at the back, now called Mama’s Garden, is still there, but better insulated for summer days and winter nights.
The space might look trendy and modern, but thankfully the food at Mama Manoush is traditional, honest, simple Lebanese food done right. Recipes are based on that which were handed down to Kairouz from her mother and grandmother, as well as her own recipes. The menu is split into mezza, plates, dips and salads, charcoal grill, sides, and desserts, and everything is designed to share. Out the back it’s a simpler menu of assorted shwarma. When we visit we tend to opt for the ‘Mama’s Banquet’, which gets you an array of dishes from across the menu for $50, with enough food to require a take away container at the end for leftovers.
There’s a lot to like on this menu – felafel is light and fluffy, lightly fried and served with a tahini sauce and mixed pickles. Kibkabet, burgul and meat coated meatballs of minced beef, pine nuts, onion and spices are dense yet light, and served with a tasty laban. Cheese cigar sticks are another highlight – the cheese option features the perfect blend of halloumi and mozzarella.
Dips are all creamy and full of flavour, and are served with a mixture of fresh and fried pita, and you’ll find that same fried pita in the fresh and flavoursome fattoush salad, along with tomato, cucumber, radish, spring onion, mint, capsicum, olive oil and sumac.
On the grill, it’s a simple affair – lamb fillet and lamb meatball skewers, grilled chicken skewers, and tender lamb cutlets. All of the meat is tender and flavoursome, with a nice combination of herbs and spices, and just the right amount of char flavour.
For dessert it’s things like baklava, kanafe (a baked sweet cheese pie with syrup, pistachios, and shredded pastry), and awamet (Lebanese doughnuts). The only problem is finding space to fit in dessert after all of the food that came prior.
For drinks you’ll find Lebanese wines, mostly from the Bekka Valley, Lebanese and Australian beers, including a few craft options, cocktails and mocktails. The Les Bretèches Rouge 2014 is a particularly tasty drop if you’re in the mood for a red, and is available by the bottle or glass.
The food at Mama Manoush is traditional and delicious and, like the best Lebanese food, manages to be filing and varied, while light and fresh at the same time. Combined with friendly service and a fun, modern space, it’s a great option for dinner in Brunswick East.
Mama Manoush
175-177 Lygon Street
Brunswick East
Victoria 3057
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9381 0898
E-mail: n/a
Website
Open
Tue – Thu: 5:00pm to 9:00pm
Fri: 5:00pm to 9:30pm
Sat: 12:00pm to 2:30pm; 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Sun: 12:00pm to 2:30pm; 5:00pm to 9:00pm