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MELBOURNE | Whenever Scott Pickett opens a new restaurant, expectations are high. Matilda, his newest restaurant, was no exception when it opened in the middle of 2018. Those north of the Yarra have been spoiled for many years, and now those south side have a Scott Pickett restaurant to call their own. Matilda is an ode to Australia, and the theme is evident from the moment you step into the Domain Road restaurant.
It’s a dark and moody space, with low ceilings, and lots of dark timber on the floors, walls, the bar and furniture. Piles of logs line one area while opposite is the long open kitchen full of ingredients being cooked over wood and charcoal. Moving towards the back you pass the long bar and enter a brighter area. Downstairs is another bar and more dining space.
The food at Matilda has a fine dining sensibility, but is stripped back and restrained. At its heart, the menu is about showcasing the best that Australia has to offer. It’s things like Sher wagyu, Macedon Ranges duck, Lakes Entrance octopus, Northern Territory barramundi, and Geraldton wax being showcased here, and the produce is definitely allowed to shine.
Roasted and pickled beetroot served multiple ways, topped with Geraldton wax produce some unique flavours and textures. Smoked burrata with tomato, watermelon, and zucchini tastes of summers in the bush. A tartlet of salmon roe and bonito cream provides an intense burst of flavour, while the 21 day dry aged Cape Grim porterhouse with macadamia romesco is one of the best steaks you’ll have in town.
For dessert, the standout is the mousse and crisp-like concoction of Valrhona Caramelia, preserved blackberry, and potato ice-cream. It’s an exciting combination of flavours and textures, familiar and unfamiliar, that really works. Another crowd favourite is the pink lady apple tarte tatin with smoked vanilla bean – supposedly Pickett tested it over 600 times before he was satisfied it was right.
For drinks, it’s an extensive selection of wines from around the world, covering a variety of styles new and old. Around 22 are available by the glass at any given time. For beers it’s a smaller, local but less adventurous selection of predominantly lagers and pale ales. And handful of cocktails, mocktails, and a decent selection of spirits round things off.
Service is very attentive and professional, never overbearing but always there when you need it. The staff are extremely knowledgeable about everything on the menu, and explain each dish perfectly.
All in all, Matilda is a venue that meets the high expectations set when it opened, and delivers exactly what it promises.
Matilda
159 Domain Road
South Yarra
Victoria 3141
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9089 6668
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Mon – Sun: 12:00pm to 3:00pm; 5:00pm to 11:30pm