Mister Bianco, Kew

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MELBOURNE | Mister Bianco Kew has been open for several years now, and in that time has established a reputation as a local’s favourite for Sicilian and Southern Italian food. The City Lane was invited to sample some of the dishes from the menu and on the cold winter’s day that we visited we were very much in the mood for some comforting Italian food.

The restaurant is small and traditional. It’s not about loud music and exposed brick walls here, rather tiles, white walls, artwork a white linen table clothes. Some might say it’s a bit old fashioned, but in this city it’s a nice change and evokes memories of a different era of dining, before eating out became the trend it is today. This traditional feel flows through to the seasonal menu, which draws upon owner Joseph Vargetto’s Sicilian heritage. Produce is sourced locally where possible, while the drinks list contains a considered selection of local and international wines, along with a few cocktails and beers.

Eschewing the trend towards share plates, the food at Mister Bianco is more about the entree/main/desserts combo. Complimenting these are some stuzzichini share plates, sides and pasta dishes. From the outset it should be mentioned that the servings at Mister Bianco are large and much of the food is rich and hearty, which makes sense given that we were dining from the winter menu. The warm, crusty bread rolls that come out at the start are a nice touch and set the tone before the food proper starts to appear. To begin with we ordered heirloom tomatoes on an apple and thyme “salad” with mozzarella fritters. Individually, things were somewhat bland but, when a little bit of each component was eaten in a single mouthful the dish made a lot of sense both flavour wise and texturally. The arancino “vero siciliano” were filled with mozzarella, rice, veal and tomato and topped with roasted garlic aioli. The flavours were bang on, however something wasn’t quite right with the coating which was somewhat hard as opposed to crispy.

The squid ink spaghettini with soft shell crab, spanner crab and crab sauce was one of the highlights of the night. The pasta was cooked perfectly al dente, and there were generous amounts of spanner crab mixed through it. Combined with the beautifully flavoursome sauce and lightly fried soft shell crab on the top, it was something that we could have eaten all night. The massive slab of twice cooked pork belly that followed was perfectly cooked – tender meat, melt in your mouth and a crispy exterior. We weren’t completely sold on the flavours that accompanied the pork, but the pork itself was spot on.

Finishing with dessert and we couldn’t go past the chocolate volcano. A chocolate cake with a rich, oozing chocolate sauce centre served in chocolate accompanied by blood orange sorbet and honeycomb. The sorbet almost tasted like sherbet and went really well with the chocolate, as did the honeycomb. The kind of dessert where you can eat each component separately or with a bit of everything in each bite – one of the highlights of the meal.

Overall the food at Mister Bianco was good and the service was friendly and attentive. Some of the dishes had little things that didn’t work and we’d like to see more lighter options on the menu to balance out the heavier offerings, but on a whole we’d happily return.

Mister Bianco

285 High Street
Kew
Victoria 3101
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9853 6929
E-mail: n/a
Website: https://www.misterbianco.com.au/

Open
Mon – Wed: 6:00pm to 10:30pm
Thu – Fri: 12:00pm to 2:30pm; 6:00pm to 10:30pm
Sat: 6:00pm to 10:30pm

Mister Bianco Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Paul
Paul
Paul founded The City Lane back in 2009 as a place to share photos of his travels around Europe with friends and family. The City Lane might have changed quite a lot since those early days but one thing that’s remained constant is Paul’s passion for food, travel and culture, and a desire to photograph and write about his experiences. Paul has a strong inquisitive nature that drives him to look beneath the surface in order to discover what really makes a city and its people tick, and what better way to do this than over a good meal or drink, with a city’s locals, at places that people who live in that city actually frequent. Paul is also a co-host of The Brunswick Beer Collective, a podcast that may or may not actually be about beer.

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