MELBOURNE | Shannon Martinez’s game-changing vegan restaurant, Smith + Daughters, has gone through multiple incarnations since opening a decade ago. It’s been mostly about the set menu and chef’s table since moving to the current location, an old brick fire station, in 2021, but now Shannon’s changing things up. I was recently invited in to check out Smith + Daughters Social club, the restaurant’s newest incarnation.
With the arrival of new head chef Sean Mears, the set menu has been retired. In its place, is a more casual atmosphere with an a la carte menu focused around the food that the team love to eat. That is, nostalgia-inspired snacks, things cooked over fire, and fun drinks.
The ‘social club’ part of the name is a nod to the Melbourne Spanish social clubs that Shannon visited growing up. Think of it as a throw back to the original Smith + Daughters, turned up to 11 with all of the things learned over the past decade. It’s the kind of unstuffy place where you can book in for a full meal, or perch yourself on a stool at the open kitchen bar, for a snack and a drink.
There’s a lot to like on the new menu. I enjoyed everything that I ate when I visited, with highlights being the currywurst inspired corn dog with golden curry ketchup, and pickled mustard seeds; fillet o’ fish with kohlrabi and pickled zucchini, and sauerkraut dim sim with vincotto soy.
The pizzetta with kidney bean and red fermented rice nduja, drizzled with orange honey, is another must order. So to, the mapo tofu inspired tofu gnocchi with crispy beef and chilli oil, and one of Shannon’s favourites, the deceptively simple braised rappa with chickpea, and white polenta.
On the drinks menu, it’s a sharp selection of house and classic cocktails; a wine list that leans funky, local, and Spanish; and craft beers. Try the house take on the mai tai, which pairs wonderfully with the sticky date pudding-like ginger pudding with marmalade and cream.
Smith + Daughters
107 Cambridge Street
Collingwood
Victoria 3066
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9123 1712
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Tue – Wed: 5:30pm to 10:00pm
Thu – Sat: 5:30pm to 11:00pm