SYDNEY | Ibrahim Moubadder and Jorge Farah are no strangers to presenting Middle Eastern cuisine to Sydneysiders in contemporary, exciting ways. Teaming up with executive chef Paul Farag at Aalia, they’ve expanded upon what they’ve done in the past. In the process, they’ve created one of Australia’s most exciting modern Middle Eastern restaurants.
It’s a casual, refined space that blends in well with the recently renovated Harry Seidler designed 25 Martin Place (formerly MLC Centre). Smooth curves that echo the building’s ‘mushroom’ architecture, and lots of natural sunlight.
Farag’s menu draws inspiration from his Egyptian heritage, and the wider Middle East and Mediterranean. It’s precise, technique driven cooking that comes from the heart, respecting history and culture. Some of the ideas, in fact, trace their origin to dishes in cookbooks the Farag uncovered, dating as far back as the 10th century.
The raw snacks and meze really show of what Aalia does best. Waraq simsim is a take on warak/dolma, that sees cumin and simsim (sesame) aged rice topped with sea urchin, served ready to wrap and eat in one bite on a vine leaf. It’s a tangy, luxurious single bite that’s the perfect way to kick off your meal.
Freshly baked Turkish bread is topped with Angelachu anchovy, muhammara (roasted red pepper dip), and macadamia dust, while beef nayyeh sees the traditional meze kibbeh nayyeh presented on a sesame cracker with rhubarb and black cardamon.
Smoked buffalo labneh with beetroot molasses is another example of something simple being elevated to great effect. Paired with Aalia’s Khorasan pita, and and olive oil that Farag made in collaboration with Rio Vista, it’s a tangy, sweet, salty combo that’s so much more than the sum of its parts.
Large dishes lean a bit more familiar, and are also outstanding. The lamb neck shawarma has become one of Aalia’s most popular dishes, and it’s easy to see why. Lamb neck is slow roasted for around 5 hours, served on the bone with tarator (tahini and garlic), pickles, chermoula, pickled shifka chillies, and Saida saj (a thin, floppy flatbread). Tear off a bit of saj, and fill it with the fall-off-the-bone lamb, some crispy flame licked bits, and the other components, and you’re in heaven.
Desserts continue the theme, with things like a milk chocolate tart with Egyptian tea and plum; brown butter kataifi with coconut, sumac mango; and rice pudding ice cream with baked rice pudding, salted pine nut praline, and saffron poached apple.
To drink, it’s inspired cocktails made using ingredients from the kitchen, the classics, non-alcs, NSW craft beers, and a diverse global wine list that leans Aussie and Middle Eastern. I’m a big fan of the Peach & Guava Brut. It’s a refreshing blend of peach tea, spiced apple, guava vinegar, verjus, and StrangeLove Dirty Tonic.
Aalia
Shop 7.07 + 7.08
45 Martin Place
Sydney
New South Wales 2000
Australia
Telephone: (02) 9182 5880
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Mon – Fri: 12:00am to 2:30pm, 5:30pm to 9:30pm
Sat: 5:00pm to 9:30pm