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48 Hours In Santa Fe: Things To Do

Paul
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48 Hours In Santa Fe: Things To Do

SANTA FE | Founded in 1610, Santa Fe is not only the oldest city in New Mexico, it’s the oldest capital city in the United States. The area’s history extends much further back than this however. Pueblo Native Americans established villages as late as 1150, and their influence is still felt in the city today.

Santa Fe is one of the great ‘art cities’ of the US. It’s home to numerous artists, galleries, and art installations, with an arts scene that’s constantly evolving. The city has its own unique style of architecture, and its own delicious cuisine.

Combine all of this with great weather year-round, and you’ve got a great destination for a weekend getaway. In alphabetical order, here’s my list of the best things to do in Santa Fe.

Be Amazed By Downtown’s Unique Architecture

Walk through central Santa Fe, and you’re surrounded by buildings that are uniquely of their place. There’s two main styles that dominate. Spanish Pueblo and Territorial, and the revival of these styles.

These unique, adobe structures are instantly recognisable for their soft, rounded corners and exposed wooden support beams. Built through the 16th, 17th, and into the 18th century, these structures were inspired by traditional Pueblo adobe homes, but incorporated modern Spanish construction techniques, and Spanish architectural influences.

Check out my article, The Unique ‘Frozen In Time’ Architecture Of Santa Fe, for a more in depth look at the topic, and more photos.

Check Out The Petroglyphs

Located just outside the city, the La Cieneguilla Petroglyphs are a must see when visiting Santa Fe. Hundreds of petroglyphs (native rock art), created by Keresan-speaking Puebloan people living in the area between the 13th and 17th centuries, can be found here. You’ll find representations of things like birds, deer, hunters, and early Native flute players.

Eat New Mexican Food

New Mexican cuisine originated in Santa Fe de Nuevo México, a province of the Spanish empire, later a part of Mexico, and today part of the US states of Colorado, Kansas, New Mexico, Oklahoma, and Texas. New Mexican food has much in common with Mexican food, but is a distinct cuisine it its own right.

It’s a cuisine that’s been influenced by the culinary history of the region’s native Pueblo inhabitants (in particular the the Apache and Navajo tribes), and New Mexican spices, herbs, flavours, and vegetables. In particular, red and green New Mexico chile peppers, anise, and piñon (pine nuts).

In Santa Fe, you can find small family-run spots like El Chile Toreado, serving up traditional New Mexican food, as well as new restaurants, like Paloma, putting a contemporary spin on things.

For a more detailed look at the food of New Mexico, and places to find it not just in Santa Fe, but in the wider region, check out my article, Discovering New Mexican Food: Places To Try.

Explore The Great Outdoors

Santa Fe’s climate is characterised by cool, dry winters, hot summers, and little rain. This makes it a great option for outdoor activities no matter the time of year. Riding the rapids of the Rio Grande and going for a hike in the Santa Fe Ski Basin are both great options.

It’s a high altitude place, so even more so than usual be sure to remember your hat and sunscreen.

Go To Market

The Santa Fe Farmers’ Market hosts up to 130 local farmers from across New Mexico. Operating every Saturday year ’round, and on Tuesdays too between May and December, visit for a wide variety of local produce, artisan products, and delicious breakfast and lunch eats.

For lovers of arts and crafts, check out the Railyard Artisan Market. Operating every Sunday, it’s one the best places in Santa Fe to purchase arts and crafts directly from local artists.

Have A Multisensory Experience

Underground Art Collective Meow Wolf might be well known for their large scale experiences in cities like Las Vegas and Denver, but it all started in Santa Fe in 2008. House of Eternal Return is their all-ages multisensory experience, where visitors explore a curious family home. It’s a dream-like place, a self described “expression of punk subversion and magical humanness”. Most importantly, it’s a whole lot of fun.

See A Movie Or A Show

Santa Fe’s Jean Cocteau Cinema was opened by four movie-goers as “The Collective Fantasy”, in 1976. In 1983, it was purchased by a new owner, who remodelled it and renamed it “The Jean Cocteau” (for the famed French novelist and filmmaker).

By 2006, the theatre had fallen into disrepair and closed down. It remained closed until Santa Fe local and Game of Thrones author George RR Martin purchased it in 2013. The reborn theatre screens a mix of new and classic independent films, comedy, live music, and drag shows. There’s a bar and a popcorn machine which makes, according to Martin, “the best popcorn in town”.

Visit An Art Gallery

As I mentioned earlier, Santa Fe is one of the great ‘art cities’ of the US. With over 250 art galleries, there’s something for lovers of all kinds of art. Be sure to visit the contemporary galleries and art spaces of the Railyard District, in particular SITE Santa Fe.

Canyon Road is another area worth visiting. It’s an 800 meter (half mile) stretch of over 100 traditional and contemporary art galleries, jewellery stores, clothing boutiques, home furnishings shops, artist studios, and restaurants. No matter what art niche you’re interested in, you’ll find somewhere dealing with it here.

Have you been to Santa Fe before? Is your favourite thing to do in Santa Fe on my list? Let me know!

Oakland Street Art Guide

Paul
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Oakland Street Art Guide

OAKLAND | When visiting the Bay Area, tourists tend to stick to San Francisco. Head to the ‘sunny side of the bay’, Oakland, however, and you’ll be rewarded with a wealth of great food and drink, street art, and more. You’ll want an Oakland street art guide to help you know where to start, and that’s what this article is all about.

Throughout downtown Oakland, and further out in its neighbourhoods, you’ll find murals large and small, with a strong essence on the local community. Oakland’s cultural diversity is reflected in its street art. People’s hopes and dreams, fears, and issues of social justice feature prominently.

Unlike many cities around the world, Oakland’s street art tends to be front and centre on the main streets. It’s not a city that you’ll need to wander down side street and alleyways to find the best pieces. But of course, there’s lots of street art to be found in those places too.

Also worth mentioning are Oakland’s art galleries. Johansson Projects and SLATE Contemporary are two contemporary art galleries that are well worth visiting if you’re a fan of street art. They showcase emerging local artists amongst others, with a focus on experimental, thought-provoking pieces. Also check out Oakland Art Murmur. It’s a collective of art and cultural venues that run city art walks on the first Friday of every month.

In this Oakland street art guide, I’ll tell you about some of my favourite neighbourhoods to visit for Oakland’s best street art.

Downtown Oakland

If you’re staying in Oakland, Downtown Oakland is probably where you’ll find yourself. It’s a great part of town, filled with the second largest concentration of art deco buildings in the world, behind Chicago. There’s a high concentration of street art in the area, many of which adorns, compliments, and contrasts with the art deco architecture.

Downtown is a great place to start exploring Oakland’s street art scene, and my advice is to wander all over. There’s just so much art in this part of town that you can’t restrict yourself to just one or two streets. Note the many murals painted by the community that deal with topics of racism, inequality, identity, and justice. Many of these were painted in the wake of the murder of George Floyd, and during other Black Lives Matter protests, and remain today.

Heading south through Downtown, you’ll find Old Oakland, which is an historical area filled with plenty of food and drink, and beatiful late 1800s Victorian buildings. Further south, passing under the 880 Highway, you’ll find the Jack London/Loft district. There’s a lot of street art around here, as well as some of the city’s most exciting breweries, food, and drink. The warehouses between Clay and Brush Streets are particularly noteworthy for their murals.

Jingletown

Originally known for its dairy farms in the 1850s, Jingletown is today a neighbourhood known for its vibrant arts community. Musicians, painters, sculptors, photographers, and more call the neighbourhood home, setting up residence in the neighbourhood’s converted warehouses and lofts.

In particular, note the area around Peterson Street and Ford Street. It’s home to several great murals, as well as the highly regarded Ford Street Studios and Gray Loft Gallery. Both are live work spaces built by artists, for artists, featuring assorted artworks by local artists.

Temescal

Located in North Oakland, Temescal is one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods. Long an artist haven, most of the area’s street art can be found along Telegraph Street. In particular, check out 4400 Telegraph Avenue. It’s a lot owned by the community group Critical Resistance, featuring a constantly rotating selection of community-created murals.

If you get hungry while exploring, grab a feed at one of the many Ethiopian and Korean restaurants on Telegraph Street.

Uptown Oakland

Similarly to Downtown, Uptown Oakland is home to beautiful art deco budlings, great place to eat and drink, and a whole lot of street art.

West Oakland

West Oakland is an area of contrasts. Walking west from Downtown Oakland towards West Oakland station, you’ll find an area that’s rich in history and culture. The area is a centre of African-American culture, and is where the Black Panther Party was founded in the 1960s.

This history is reflected in West Oakland’s murals. There’s a strong focus on African-American culture, civil rights, social justice, and community.

Be sure to visit the is The Women of The Black Panther Party Mural and Mini Museum at 831 Center Street. It’s 186 square meter (2,000 square foot) mural installed on a private home, that recognises and honours the role of the Black Panther Women and the over 65 Community Survival Programs they created and managed.

Identified artists featured in the image gallery include:

Happy discoveries on your street art walk through Oakland. What are your favourites places for street art in Oakland? Are there any street art neighbourhoods beyond these hotspots that you love?

Dessert Corner Lounge, Truganina

Paul
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Dessert Corner Lounge, Truganina

MELBOURNE | Truganina is one of those suburbs that I really should make more of an effort to visit to eat. It’s full of Indian restaurants, catering to local residents of whom 37% were either born in India, or have a parent who was born there. There’s also big representation from the Philippines, Bangladesh, and Pakistan.

Dessert Corner Lounge is a recently opened spot in Truganina, evolving from what former software developer Deval Patel started as a lockdown hustle, then food truck. Housed over two levels in a commercial park, it’s a warm and colourful spot which aligns with Deval’s food. I was recently invited in to take a look.

Across the extensive 18 page menu, you’ll find an assortment of sweet and savoury dishes, all of which are vegetarian and made fresh on site each day using only natural ingredients. Indian flavours and influences, in particular those of Deval’s Gujarati heritage, feature prominently.

The most popular item on the menu is the rose (gulkand) falooda. It’s a light, fragrant mix of rose syrup, vermicelli, sweet basil seeds, milk, and ice-cream, that immediately transported me back to moments spent enjoying the dessert’s forebearer, faloodeh, in Iran.

There’s kulfi sticks, with flavours like pistachio, mango, and rabri (condensed milk with sugar, cardamom, and saffron). I really enjoyed the latter flavour, which I had as an ice-cream flavour. Gulab jamun, available hot or cold, and served in a cardamon and rose spiced condensed milk syrup, are another must try.

Ordering from the savoury section of the menu isn’t any easier. There’s a lot to entice you, and everything that I enjoyed was a fun mix of familiar flavours presented in ways that were new to me. The DC Special Bahubali Sandwich is a three-layered toasted sandwich filled with butter, corn, paneer, capsicum, sev, mayonnaise, tandoori mayo, cheese, and a special masala. It’s a meal in its own right.

Also worth trying is the aloo chana chaat (a zesty mix of mix of potatoes, chickpeas, zesty coriander, tomatoes, lime, and green chilies) in filo wrap cups, and the crispy, saucy, gobi pakora (spicy fried cauliflower).

Everything is keenly priced, and it’s worth grabbing several things to try. Anything you can’t eat, the staff are happy to pack away into biodegradable take away containers for you. In fact, I was told that most dine-in customers end up taking food home.

What are your favourite Truganina food spots? Let me know in the comments so that I can add them to my list. After my experience at Dessert Corner Lounge, I’m keen to explore more of the suburb’s gems.

Dessert Corner Lounge

13A Tallis Crescent
Truganina
Victoria 3029
Australia

Telephone: (03) 8381 0248
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Mon – Thu: 12:00pm to 10:30pm
Fri: 12:00pm to 11:30pm
Sat: 11:00am to 11:30pm
Sun: 11:00am to 10:30pm

Purple Pit, Melbourne CBD

Paul
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Purple Pit, Melbourne CBD

MELBOURNE | Eight years in the making, located in the basement of ANZ’s recently refurbished 1887 Gothic Revival building, you’ll find Purple Pit. Named for the nightclub in the 1963 Jerry Lewis comedy, The Nutty Professor, Purple Pit is a cocktail bar that reflects the personalities of its two owners, Joe Jones and Maurice Terzini.

Walk past the velvet rope and down the stairs, and you’re greeted with a stark, cavernous space inspired by Europe’s grand hotel bars, with a divey twist, and Joe and Maurice’s love of post-punk music. It’s dark, brutalist, classy, and alternative, all in one. Confused, some may say, but all done with purpose. The longer you spend in the space, the more it makes sense.

The cocktail list focuses on drinks that taste like the flavours that they’re supposed to taste like. If you’re a fan of Jones’ previous venue, Romeo Lane, you’ll be happy to know that its spirit (and some of the drinks) lives on in the menu.

A twist on the classic Bellini, replaces the usual peach nectar/puree with peach essence and burnt honey vodka. A red wine cocktail, the name of which escapes me, is particularly enjoyable, evoking memories enjoying sangria in Madrid basement bar Las Cuevas De Sesamo. There’s also a sharp wine list with a focus on Champagne, and some quality local craft beers and non-alco options.

For food, it’s a snack-focused that’s as eclectic as the space itself. There’s things like oysters, and a ‘Big Mac’ inspired calzone, and tomato tartare with shio koji. It’s been described as food that pairs as well as the music as it does with the food, which makes sense when you visit.

Purple Pit

B1, 380 Collins Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Tue – Sat: 5:00pm to 1:00am

A Weekend In Rocky Mountain National Park

Paul
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A Weekend In Rocky Mountain National Park

FORT COLLINS | Rocky Mountain National Park is one of those natural wonders that needs little introduction. Even if you don’t know much about it, you know know that it exists. When you visit, it’s immediately apparent just why this is such a special place.

Located around an hour and a half drive from both Denver and Fort Collins, Rocky Mountain National Park straddles the continental divide, covering 415 square miles (265,807 acres) of diverse landscapes. There’s meadows, mountain peaks, alpine lakes, streams, trails, wildlife and more.

There are a lot of recreational activities on offer in Boise National Forest. Scenic drives, over 300 miles (480 kilometres) of hiking trails, horseback riding, fishing, and snowshoeing, and wildlife viewing. No matter your fitness level or experience in the great outdoors, there’s something for you.

In my guide, I’ll provide you with the essential information that you need to spend a weekend in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Plan Your Stay

Depending on where you enter the national park, you’ll have a different suite of activities available to you. Specifically, this guide deals with the area around Estes Park. It’s one of the most popular places for visitors to the Rocky Mountain National Park to base themselves, and is about equidistant from Fort Collins and Denver. Around 80% of all visitors to the park enter through the Estes Park gate, so plan for things to get busy during peak season.

Peak season is between July and October. The snow has melted for the most part, with all of the park’s trails clear to explore. There’s an abundance of wildlife, blooming wildflowers, and warm temperatures. If snow activities are your thing, than consider visiting outside of this period, but for everything else, July to October is when you’ll want to be there.

Beaver Meadows Visitor Center and Fall River Visitor Center are located west of Estes Park, and are worth stopping in to. Grab a physical map (mobile phone reception can be patchy in the forest), and have a chat with the staff about anything you should particularly be aware of at the time. Staff are also happy to offer suggestions based on your own preferences.

Passes And Permits

A valid entrance fee or park pass is always required to enter Rocky Mountain National Park, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. All park entrance fees and passes are available for purchase at the park’s staffed park entrance stations, and can also be purchased in advance, online. The cost (as of Jan 2024) is between USD$15.00–$35.00, depending on the exact pass (e.g. individual, motorcycle, private vehicle).

A timed entry permit system isn’t currently operating, but did operate during peak season in 2023. The plan is for the same system to operate during 2024’s peak season (commencing 24 May 2024), and subsequent year’s peak seasons. The ‘Fees & Passes’ section of the official Rocky Mountain National Park website is the best place to visit for the most up-to-date information around passes and permits.

Specific activities, for example camping and overnight backpacking, require different passes. Check the park’s official website for specifics.

Enjoy The Scenic Drive

While driving into and through the park, you’ll be wowed by the diverse landscapes and scenery along the way. Route 34 (from Fort Collins) and Route 36 (from Denver) offer beautiful views and spots you’ll want to stop at to admire the natural beauty.

If you want a particularly impressive drive, be sure to go for a cruise along Trail Ridge Road. It’s a 48 mile (77 kilometre) high-alpine highway connecting Estes Park to Grand Lake, and the highest paved road in the United States. If you’re a cyclist, you can also ride your bike on this road.

Trails

There’s over 300 miles (480 kilometres) of hiking trails in Rocky Mountain National Park. They vary in altitude, length, and difficulty, with options for people of all fitness levels.

One of the most popular options is to do the trio of Nymph, Dream, and Emerald Lake. They’re all nearby, and unique in their own way. You can start by doing a leisurely stroll around Bear Lake, and then make your way to the other three.

Also nearby and do-able in the same day is Lake Haiyaha. This one’s a moderate hike to an alpine lake ringed with rugged cliffs and pines, within a glacial canyon. For me, it’s one of the most rewarding places to hike to in the park.

Other popular hikes include Alberta Falls, Sky Pond, Mills Lake, and Hallett Peak. For experienced hikers, Long’s Peak is where you’ll want to be heading. At 14,259 feet (4,346 metres) tall, it’s the highest point in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Summer Activities

Beyond the hikes and trails, there’s a lot that you can do in the park during the warm months. There’s picnic and camping options, as well as plenty of opportunities to view wildlife.

You’ll find 60 species of mammals, 280 recorded bird species, 11 species of fish, and countless insects in the park. There’s big animals like bighorn sheep, elk, and mule deer, and smaller ones like chipmunks and blue jays. Even if you’re not actively seeking out wildlife, chances are you’ll spot some during your visit.

If you’re a fan of fishing, you’ll be happy to know that the park contains over 50 lakes and many streams where you can fish. Note that a Colorado fishing license is required and special regulations exist, in order to maintain the area’s delicate ecosystem.

For those who enjoy horse-riding, there are two stables located within the park: Glacier Creek Stables and Moraine Park Stables. Both open in late May. There are also are many stables outside the park that are permitted to bring riders into the park.

Winter Activities

There’s no shortage of winter activities for those visiting Rocky Mountain National Park when the snow hits and the temperatures drop. Snowmobiling, snowshoeing, and downhill and cross-country skiing are just some of the activities on offer.

There 130 ski resorts in the park, located all over, including popular resort towns Aspen and Breckenridge. Even if you don’t want to do any activities, just spending time in one of these towns, relaxing by the log fire in a cabin is a worthwhile experience. Not to mention the plentiful good food and drink on offer.

The Unique ‘Frozen In Time’ Architecture Of Santa Fe

Paul
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0
The Unique ‘Frozen In Time’ Architecture Of Santa Fe

SANTA FE | When one things about New Mexican architecture, there’s a particular style that comes to mind. Even if you don’t know what it’s called, you know it when you see it. It was certainly the case for me when I visited the state. These architectural styles are Spanish Pueblo and Territorial, and nowhere are they more prevalent than in Santa Fe.

Walk through central Santa Fe, and you’re surrounded by unique, adobe structure. They’re instantly recognisable for their soft, rounded corners and exposed wooden support beams. Built through the 16th, 17th, and into the 18th century, these structures were inspired by traditional Pueblo adobe homes, but incorporated modern Spanish construction techniques, and Spanish architectural influences.

The buildings look traditional, and it’s easy to assume that they date back hundreds of years. Some do, but in fact many of what appear to be traditional Pueblo Spanish buildings in Santa Fe are in fact, much more modern.

What happened was that Santa Fe was moving with the times. The Santa Fe Trail opened in 1822, connecting Santa Fe to Franklin, Missouri, and much of Central North America. New Mexico became a territory of the United States in 1850. With these developments, Santa Fe was influenced by the Greek Revival Style of architecture that was popular at the time. The version of this that developed in Santa Fe was known as the Territorial Style, and was a pared back take on things.

In the years to come, the architecture of Santa Fe would continue to be influenced by developments and trends in the wider US, and the world, and the uniqueness of the city’s architecture began to be diluted. This spurred a movement in the early 1900s by a group of artists and architects seeking to establish a unique regional identity. It was dubbed Pueblo Revival and Territorial Revival, and popularised throughout the 1920s and 1930s

Pueblo Revival and Territorial Revival buildings look like they’re traditional buildings, but in fact are quite modern. They’re built using modern materials like brick and concrete, with features such as adobe exteriors, and projecting wooden roof beams (vigas) being purely aesthetic.

These ‘modern’ styles aimed at recreating the look of the old, were codified in 1957, when a committee led by architect John Gaw Meem drafted Santa Fe “H” Historical District Regulations Ordinance No. 1957-18. This ordinance mandated the use of the “Old Santa Fe Style”,” which encompassed Pueblo and Territorial styles, on all new buildings in central Santa Fe.

The ordinance is still in effect today, which has had the effect of freezing central Santa Fe’s architecture in time. Walking through Santa Fe today, and two buildings that you assume are as old as each other could in fact have been built hundreds of years apart. Some argue that this makes the city’s architecture not truly authentic, and has contributed to the ‘Disneyfication’ of central Santa Fe. Others argue that it’s helped preserve what might have otherwise been lost, and allowed the city to retain its unique architectural style.

What do you think? Should the architecture of central Santa Fe be allowed to evolve, perhaps using traditional materials and influences in bold new ways, or should it remain frozen in time. Does it matter either way?

Denver Street Art Guide

Paul
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Denver Street Art Guide

DENVER | Well know about the bustling street art scene in places like New York City, Los Angeles, and San Francisco, but what about Denver? The largest city in Colorado is home to a thriving street art scene that’s as impressive as you’ll find anywhere in the world.

Denver has long had a vibrant underground street art scene, and as street art has moved from the underground to the mainstream, these underground pieces have been joined by larger scale murals backed by the city and local businesses. My Denver street art guide will tell you the best places to find them all.

One percent of all construction projects valued at over USD$1 million in Denver have to be donated to public art by law. This has led to the creation of some of the city’s most recognisable sculptures and installations. Today, murals often form part of this too.

Be it a commissioned piece, an unauthorised piece, or an authorised piece painted with the permission of the owner of the wall, there are murals to be found all over Denver. Several local artists are showcased on the city’s streets, as well as artists from further afar.

The art draws upon a variety of themes from the social and political, to the historical and fun. Down laneways, on main streets, in full view on large buildings and hidden in unassuming spots, there’s always something interesting to see.

In this Denver street art guide, I’ll tell you about some of my favourite neighbourhoods to visit for Denver’s best street art.

The Art District on Santa Fe

This designated Colorado Creative District has the highest concentration of art galleries in Colorado – over 30 of them. The galleries are reason enough to visit the Art District on Santa Fe, but it’s not just what’s inside the galleries. The entire neighbourhood is a colourful one, full of murals not just on the exterior walls of the galleries, but down alleyways, on sidewalks, and houses.

Colfax Avenue

Colfax Avenue was Denver’s busiest thoroughfare before the construction of the city’s highway system. It’s got a bit of grit, is home to some of the city’s best music venues, and a whole lot of history. Of particular note is the 40 West Art Line. It’s a 4-mile walking and biking route that’s lined with public art.

Also check out the area’s power boxes. Each year, 15 power boxes are transformed into vessels for art and storytelling, linked by a theme. Previous themes have included 2023’s ‘Joy of Pride’, 2022’s ‘Counterculture’, and 2021’s ‘Colfax Comeback’.

Confluence Park / Lower Downtown (LoDo)

Confluence Park is an urban park located where Cherry Creek and the South Platte River in Denver’s LoDo converge. It’s a trendy district of apartments, bars, eateries, and independent stores housed in redeveloped 19th-century brick warehouses and storefronts. You’ll find plenty of murals on the area’s walls and storefronts.

Five Points / River North Art District (RiNo)

RiNo, short for ‘River North Art District’, is a micro neighbourhood of sorts. Located within the Five Points neighbourhood proper, it’s one of the most exciting parts of Denver. It’s an area that’s rich in history, full of brilliant bars, restaurants, and of course street art.

If there’s only one neighbourhood you’re able to visit for street art during your time in Denver, this is it. There’s so much street art in the area, that I’ve written a separate guide to help you explore it.

Lower Highland (LoHi)

Located on the other side of the I-25 highway to Confluence Park, LoHi is a similar neighbourhood filled with great eateries, bars and breweries, and street art.

South Broadway

Heading south out of Downtown, you’ll find South Broadway. It’s a street that’s filled with historic theatres, music venues, bars, eateries, and boutiques. There are plenty of murals to be found on South Broadway and the side streets and alleyways that run off it.

While there are commissioned pieces here, it’s also an area where you’ll find plenty of smaller scale artworks and graffiti. South Broadway has experienced mixed fortunes in recent years. While things are slowly turning around, do be aware of your surroundings, especially after dark.

Identified artists featured in the image gallery include:

Happy discoveries on your street art walk through Denver, and be sure to check out my Five Points / RiNo Street Art Guide. What are your favourites places for street art in Denver? Are there any street art neighbourhoods beyond these hotspots that you love?

Komeyui, Southbank

Paul
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0
Komeyui, Southbank

MELBOURNE | Hokkaido born chef Motomu Kumano opened Komeyui in 2011, after working in some of Osaka and Melbourne’s top sushi restaurants. The Port Melbourne original was a highly regarded, intimate, traditional restaurant, but Motomo’s ambitious was always going to outgrow that. Fast forward to 2020, and the restaurant relocated to its current Southbank digs (another location, in Brisbane, opened in 2023). Bigger and bolder in every way. I was recently invited to take a look.

Walking through the unassuming curtains at the entrance and past the reception space, you’re greeted with a calm, modern space. There’s the main dining space with tables and seats, and a long raw bar with stools to the right. Diners have three experiences to choose from – a sushi focused omakase, a kaiseki tasting menu, or a la carte. There’s also a takeaway menu, refined during two years operating the new space during lockdowns.

I opted for the seasonal omakase, taking my seat at the raw bar. It gives you a great view of the action, from the rice cooking in large cast-iron ‘hagama’ pots, to head sushi chef Danii (aka the ‘Bald Sushi Man’) and his team preparing each dish with precise technique and finesse.

Sushi at this level is often referred to as art, and chef Motomu has always been inspired by the link between art and food. This is apparent from the first dish of the meal. It’s a salad of black lip awabi (abalone), foie gras cream, caviar, and edible flowers. A cloud of dry ice dissipates to reveal a delicate creation of colour and texture.

Following this it’s a saikyo miso ocean trout, dry-aged snapper sashimi, and then 10 pieces of sushi, the selection of which depends on the freshest and best available local and Japanese product at the time. Fatty otoro (tuna belly) is a delight, as are things like saba (mackerel), and mekajiki (swordfish). Some of the sushi is served simply with rice, others wrapped in nori with balancing ingredients, or interesting touches like garlic butter.

There’s daikon, pickled ginger, wasabi, and soy sauce on the table, but I recommend asking Danii to guide you on when to use it. Mostly, the sushi doesn’t need anything extra. If you have any questions, Danii more than happy to chat as he makes sushi behind the counter.

To finish, its hydrangea tofu miso soup, and salted caramel miso ice-cream with crispy charcoal blossoms and toasted rice.

To drink, it’s a selection of around 30 sake and 50 wines, plus a few cocktails, beers, and non-alcoholic options. I highly recommend the wasabi martini if you’re looking for something different to start, followed by whatever sake is recommended as a pairing for the sushi.

Komeyui

181 Ferrars Street
Southbank
Victoria 3006
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9645 5420
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Tue – Sun: 11:30am to 2:30pm; 5:30pm to 10:00pm

Five Points / RiNo Street Art Guide, Denver

Paul
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0
Five Points / RiNo Street Art Guide, Denver

DENVER | I’ve been to many cities around the world with neighbourhoods that are known for their street art. After exploring the street art of Denver’s Five Points/RiNo, I have no hesitation in calling it one of the best neighbourhoods for street art in the world.

RiNo, short for ‘River North Art District’, is a micro neighbourhood of sorts. Located within the Five Points neighbourhood proper, it’s one of the most exciting parts of Denver. It’s an area that’s rich in history, full of brilliant bars, restaurants, and of course street art. As is the case with many similar areas in the world, it’s a neighbourhood that’s rapidly gentrifying, and figuring out how to evolve without losing its soul.

At one time, Five Points was the historic centre of Denver’s black community, the “Harlem of the West”. Traces of this past exist, but are becoming increasingly hard to find. If you didn’t do your own research, you’d never know. There are many murals in the area that deal with this history, gentrification, and the wider political and social landscape of the city.

As well as these topics, the street art of RiNo/Five Points covers and assortment of topics. There are murals large and small, murals that began as illegal installations that became beloved by the community, and murals with no wider meaning other than that which is personal to the artists. Artists from Denver, the rest of the US, and the world, flock to the neighbourhood to create their pieces.

In my RiNo/Five Points street art guide, I’ve dealt with things a bit differently that in most of my street art guides. Because the neighbourhood has such a vast amount of street art throughout, I’ve set up the guide as suggested walk, providing you with a route that will allow you to see some of the area’s best murals.

Given just how much art is in the area, I encourage you to go ‘off route’ when exploring the street art of RiNo/Five Points. If you see something interesting and that takes you on a little journey to a part of the neighbourhood not covered in this guide, do it. You can always circle back later on in the day.

What I would suggest is that you dedicate a full day to exploring the neighbourhood. With all of the food and drink in the area, independent boutiques, and street art, you can easily enjoy a full day without leaving RiNo/Five Points. In fact, it took me a day and a half to explore everything that I wanted to during my visit, and even then I know that I only scratched the surface. Happy exploring!

Larimer & Walnut Streets

A lot of the RiNo/Five Point’s murals can be round along Larimer Street and Walnut Street. You can use these two main streets as the anchor for your street art walk. Start at the corner of Larimer and 26th, and walk up towards the corner of Walnut and 30th. There’s lots of street art on Larimer and Walnut, as well as the smaller streets and alleyways that run between them.

Depending on the time of day, you might feel like a bite to eat, any maybe a coffee or something stronger to drink. Great options in this part of RiNo/Five Points are Crema Coffee House for coffee and brunch; Redeemer Pizza for some of the best pizza (whole or by the slice) in town; and Our Mutual Friend Brewing for a diverse selection of some of the best beers in a neighbourhood that’s full of breweries. Pit Fiend Barbecue, next door to Our Mutual Friend, does some of Denver’s best low and slow BBQ, while Denver Central Market is a refurbished 1920s building that’s home to vendors selling an assortment of top quality food and drink from around the globe.

Even if you don’t go to Denver Central Market to eat or drink, be sure to check out the alleyway and carpark at the rear of the market. It’s full of very impressive large-scale murals.

Once you hit the corner of Walnut and 30th, you have two options. You can continue east along Larimer until you reach Downing Street, which forms the eastern border of RiNo/Five Points, or walk back to 26th street, along Blake Street.

Blake Street

There are murals all along Blake Street. In particular, explore the area between 31th and 27th. If you get thirsty, pop into Bierstadt Lagerhaus. The local brewery specialises in German and Central European style beers, brewing what are considered the best beers of those styles in town. Their ‘slow pour pilsner’, which takes 5 minutes to pour and comes with a tall, creamy head, is legendary. For coffee, check out Blue Sparrow Coffee.

Across The Rail Lines (Downing Street)

Downing Street forms a kind of four way intersection with Larimer Street, 36th Street, and E 37th Ave. Head north up 36th street and you’ll see an overpass that allows you to cross the rail lines. Head over, and you’ll find an area that’s full of construction. It’s also full of street art. In particular, the area between the rail lines, the Platte River, 38th street, and 35th street.

In this area you’ll find the Vīb Hotel By Best Western Denver RiNo. It’s where I stayed while I was in town, and it’s worth considering if you’re looking for accommodation in Denver. It’s a new hotel, reasonably priced, and as this guide shows, is in a great location.

If you’re looking for a bite to eat in this part of town, check our Levantine restaurant Safta, which offers contemporary takes on the dishes and flavours of the region. If you’re in the mood for a drink around here, check out Yacht Club. It does require you to head back over the rail lines and onto E 37th Ave, but is well worth it. It’s considered one of the best cocktail bars in town and I rate it highly.

Identified artists featured in the image gallery include:

Happy discoveries on your walk through RiNo/Five Points using my RiNo/Five Points street art guide. What are your favourites places for street art in RiNo/Five Points? For more places to find street art in Denver, be sure to check out my Denver Street Art Guide.

Barry Road Hot Bread & Cake Shop, Campbellfield

Paul
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Barry Road Hot Bread & Cake Shop, Campbellfield

MELBOURNE | Campbellfield is a multicultural gem of a neighbourhood, home to a large Lebanese, Iraqi, and Turkish community, amongst others. The cafes and restaurants of the neighbourhood are run by locals, serving the community.

Barry Road Hot Bread & Cake Shop is a Turkish bakery located on a strip mall full of great eating spots, just across the road from Upfield railway station. Open until 1:00am every day of the week, it’s a popular spot for locals to get their fix of regular and Turkish baked goods, made fresh on site each day.

The simit (golden sesame encrusted Turkish bread) are considered some of the best in Melbourne. You can get them plain in the traditional twisted ring shape (like a bagel), or in roll form as a simit sandviç. My favourite is the simit filled with salty beyaz peynir (Turkish white brined cheese), fresh sliced tomato; and crunchy, mild, sweet sivri biber green chilli.

There’s also things like pita, borek, and gozleme. You can buy them cold/room temperature, or get them heated up. Fillings include things like spinach and cheese; beef mince; and cheese. In an example of how much the food of Turkey spread and influenced all corners of the former Ottoman Empire, the beef mince borek at Barry Road Hot Bread is strikingly similar to the version (which I grew up calling ‘cora’) that my Macedonian grandmother used to make.

It’s not just baked goods on the menu either. Look through the cabinets and you’ll find desserts like sütlaç (rice pudding), baklava, and kadayif. The circular, airy, walnut filled kadayif, versus the better known syrupy, cheese filled version, is particularly good.

There’s drinks like ayran (savoury yogurt drink), and Uludağ in the fridges, and Turkish coffee made to order. Food here’s mostly to-go, but there are a few seats and tables if you want to eat in. To the side of the tables, there’s a few shelves with Turkish grocery items for the pantry.

Barry Road Hot Bread & Cake Shop

359 Barry Road
Campbellfield
Victoria 3061
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9357 9320
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 6:30am to 1:00am

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