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Patris, Brunswick

MELBOURNE | R.H.M.S Patris is the name of the ship that brought Maria Vamvakinou, along with a host of other Greek and Southern European immigrants, to Melbourne between 1959 and 1975. Now, it’s also the name of a new Greek/Eastern European restaurant in Brunswick, owned by Maria, who went on to have a successful career as a Federal MP, and her family.

Step inside, and it feels like you’ve stepped into the family home. The restaurant is adorned with retro furniture and trinkets from the family home. A bookshelf is lined with books that reflect the family’s passion for food, culture, and humanitarianism, The walls are adorned with abstract prints and paintings, many of which were created by Maria’s Cypriot-born husband, Dr. Michalis Michael.

Inside the kitchen, you’ll find Maria and Michalis’ son Stavros, and son-in-law, Johnny. Together, they’ve created a menu that takes inspiration predominantly from regional Cypriot specialities, with influences from the wider Eastern European and Mediterranean region. Traditional family dishes sit side by side with new creations. Stella runs front of house, enthusiastically taking guests through the menu, sharing the story of the food and the restaurant.

It’s all made using top quality local and Greek produce. Olive oil is pressed by Stavros and Stella’s aunt in the Peloponnese, using olives from her own tree. The food is humble, and delicious, showcasing the quality of the produce. Fried calamari is served with ladolemono for a big citrus hit. Okra, with caramelised onion and sumac, is a must try, with just the right balance of crunch and mucilaginousness. Zucchini fritters with crumbed fetta, are surprisingly light.

Eliópita, filled with roasted onion, kalamáta, olives, parsley, and mint, is a flaky, parcel-like take on the favourite. For something larger, you can’t go wrong with tender, slow cooked lamb shoulder with pomegranate glaze, and zhug; and a serving of roasted lemon potatoes.

To drink, it’s a tight selection of Greek-themed cocktails and mocktails, local and Greek wine, local beer and cider, coffee, and tea. The pomegranate sour, which blends Starward Single Malt Whisky, pomegranate, and lemon syrup, is a great choice.

Before you leave, check out the counter for a selection of products for home. There’s things like Johnny’s take on chilli oil, mushroom pâté, and biscuits made by 13-year-old Brunswick local, Sylvana Tramontana. Also be sure to keep an eye out for things like cooking classes, themed dinners, and cultural events that Patris occasionally hosts.


Patris

140 Barkly Street
Brunswick
Victoria 3057
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Thu – Fri: 6:00pm to 10:00pm

Garfield Pizzeria, Carlton

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MELBOURNE | There’s been a lot going on behind the hoardings at 297 Lygon Street, since Jamie Valmorbida closed King & Godfree in 2024. He’s been working on three distinct venues, aimed at breathing new life to the area, while staying true to his family’s and the neighbourhood’s Italian heritage. The first venue, Garfield Pizzeria, opens today. I was invited to the launch for a sneak peek.

Garfield is inspired by the pizza tradition of Italy, Tokyo’s forward-thinking pizza scene, and Melbourne’s own Italian-Australian pizza heritage. It’s named not for the lasagne-loving cat, but for a local cat that kept builders’ company during the build.

Dough is made using Molino Casillo wheat flour, fermented at high hydration for 72 hours. It’s hand stretched using the Tokyo stretch method, before being topped and baked in a Marana Forni ‘Rotoforno’ wood-fired oven from Italy. The resulting base is lighter and airier than a Neapolitan one, with more char. It was long pizzas at the launch, but usually, they’ll be 23cm discs.

Flavours have been developed by culinary director Karen Martini, head pizza-maker Sangsub Ha, and executive chef, Mark Glenn. For familiar flavours, you can’t go wrong with a classic margarita, or the namesake ‘Garfield’. It’s lasagne in pizza form, with Donati’s beef and pork sausage meatballs, red sauce, and parmesan.

For a more unexpected flavour combo, I recommend the Hawaiano. Inspired by the divisive Hawaiian pizza, Garfield’s version uses lacto-fermented, roasted pineapple; zippy house-made barbeque sauce; and unctuous, thin-sliced mortadella.

Beyond pizza, there’s salads, and snacks like labneh eggplant chips, sushi rice four cheese arancini, and Sichuan pepper salt calamari. Those with a sweet tooth can enjoy lemon Biscoff tiramisu cheesecake, and Pocky-topped yoghurt soft serve made in collaboration with Jamie and his sister Lisa’s gelateria, Pidapipo, next door.

To drink It’s local and Italian beer, wine, and cocktails on tap and in the fridges. Wines lean fun and minimal intervention, and if you find something you really like, you can grab a bottle or drink to-go


Garfield Pizzeria

297 Lygon Street
Carlton
Victoria 3053
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Tue – Sun: 4:00pm to 10:00pm

StandardX Melbourne, Fitzroy

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MELBOURNE | The launch of Fitzroy hotel, StandardX Melbourne, in 2024 was The Standard Group’s first foray into the Australian market. It was their first ‘X’ hotel, the suffix signifying a younger, rebellious take on the Standards typical hotel. It was also a necessity to differentiate the hotel from longstanding Fitzroy pub, The Standard. I was invited in recently to stay a night at the hotel, and to also check out the relaunched restaurant offering, Bistro X, and rooftop bar, On Top.

Interiors were designed by Melbourne-based studio Hecker Guthrie. Various spaces fit in with Standard’s broader portfolio, with a local angle. It’s a blend of locally sourced natural materials and industrial rawness, showcasing local artisans. Woodturning & Joinery is by Charles Sandford, there’s furniture by designer Jordan Fleming, and artist and designer Anna Varendorff, and artwork and photography by Brodie Kokkinos.

Staff are friendly when you arrive, happy to have a chat about the neighbourhood and provide you with any pointers. You can check in online, before your arrival, needing only to pick up your room key and show a credit/debit card for pre-authorisation.

Location

StandardX Melbourne is a hotel that harkens back to the group’s roots when it was founded in Los Angeles in 1999. Namely, to offer stylish, unfussy hotels in trendy neighbourhoods that beg to be explored.

Located on Rose Street in Fitzroy, on the site formerly home to excellent coffee roaster Industry Beans (now just up the road), and a gym, StandardX Melbourne provides a great base for exploration of my most frequented parts of Melbourne. In fact, the food and culture neighbourhood tour that I run a few times a month almost directly passes by the hotel.

Fitzroy is an eclectic neighbourhood filled with amazing restaurants, bars, cafes, pubs, street art, independent boutiques, and architecture. On weekends, you’ve got the added bonus of the Rose Street Artist’s Market, and Fitzroy Mills Markets on the same street as the hotel.

Beyond Fitzroy itself, you can head across to similarly trendy Collingwood, or catch the 96 tram, a four minute walk-away on Nicholson Street, to any number of Melbourne hotspots. Head north along the tramline and you’ll pass through Carlton, ending up in up-and-coming Brunswick East. Southbound, you’ll pass through the CBD, Southbank, South Melbourne, and end up in bay-side suburb St Kilda.

If walking is more your thing, the CBD is just a 25 minute walk away, via the beautiful Carlton Gardens. The latter is home to venues like the Melbourne Museum, and UNESCO heritage listed Royal Exhibition Building. If you’ve got an event to see at the MCG, or the wider Melbourne sporting precinct, you can get there in less than half an hour by public transport.

Rooms

StandardX Melbourne features 125 rooms, ranging from cosy Standard King rooms, through to spacious Suites featuring views across Fitzroy and the CBD. I stayed in a Deluxe King Room, a more spacious version of the Standard King.

Bright rooms feature floor to ceiling windows, with regular blinds, and black-out blinds that roll down behind them. It’s a clean, fresh design, white and light timber, accented by pops of colour and artwork by local artist, Jane Sinclair.

Rooms are well thought out, plenty of power outlets in useful positions, and an empty bar fridge so you can put your own things in there. USB-C instead of USB-A sockets on the outlets would have been nice, but it’s not a big deal. Above the fridge is a coffee station, with utensils and cutlery tucked away beneath it. To the side, you’ll find storage for luggage, a clothing rack, and a pull out chair.

There’s a small but useable fold-out work space, and a large, comfortable bed with pillows that have a nice balance between firmness and softness. There’s also a pillow menu if you want to swap the standard pillows for something different.

A large TV has free to air channels, music, and streaming. There’s also a portable Bluetooth speaker next to the bed. Moving to the bathroom, it’s a compact affair but also very well designed. There’s a regular and rain combo shower, small but useable mirror, soft towels and bathrobes, and amenities by Davines.

The entire hotel, and all rooms, come with free WiFi.

Amenities

Standard hotels have always been geared towards those that enjoy having a base for exploring a neighbourhood. This hotel ticks the essential boxes, but, you won’t find things like a club room, or a gym on site. What you will find, however is a small retail space called ‘The Box’.

Located next to the reception counter, The Box features mix of daily essentials, wellness items, fashionable goods, snacks and drinks, to enjoy on the go or in your room. It’s a great selection of stuff, featuring mostly local goods, including several things that I have in my own house, and that you’ll find in some of the neighbourhood’s best bars and restaurants.

Eat & Drink

There’s two food and drink options at StandardX Melbourne – ground floor restaurant, Bistro X, and rooftop bar, On Top.

Bistro X, which opened in December last year, feels more self assured and right for the area than its predecessor, Bang. Headed up by chef Ben John, the restaurant features a French-leaning, modern Australian menu, that showcases the best quality seasonal produce, sourced from independent Aussie producers. Ben’s cooking also draws upon Melbourne’s rich, multicultural tapestry, and incorporates native ingredients. You can read my full write-up of the restaurant here.

On Top, ia a rooftop bar open to hotel guests only, that ticks all of the right boxes. As a Fitzroy regular, I loved being able to look down on the neighbourhood to get a perspective I hadn’t seen before. The view of the CBD skyline is also different than that you usually see. On the menu, you’ll find beer, minimal intervention wines, and cocktails made using artisanal spirits. Almost all drinks are sourced from small-scale, independent Victorian producers.

The Verdict

StandardX Melbourne is a welcome addition to Melbourne’s hotel scene. Fitzroy is one of my favourite neighbourhoods to spend time in as a local, and I think it’s great that there’s a hotel like this in the area. When I travel to other cities, it’s the kind of hotel in the kind of neighbourhood that appeals to me. They’ve focused on all of the things that are important to the sort of traveller who, perhaps ironically, likes to spend most of their time in a city away from the hotel.

The fact that the restaurant and rooftop bar hold their own in the neighbourhood, is a bonus. Even without that, if I was a visitor to Melbourne, StandardX would be high on my list of accommodation options. In fact, I’ve already recommended the hotel to a few like-minded out of town friends.


StandardX Melbourne

62 Rose Street
Fitzroy
Victoria 3065
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9124 4800
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Bistro X, Fitzroy

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MELBOURNE | Bistro X is the restaurant of trendy Fitzroy hotel, StandardX. It, along with rooftop bar, ‘On Top’, aim to provide not just destinations worth eating and drinking at for guests of the hotel, but to provide options that stand on their own in a part of town that’s filled with quality hospitality options. I was recently invited in to stay the hotel, and experience the venues.

After switching up the hotel’s food and beverage offering with a pop-up led by Shannon Bennet, in the middle of last year, Bistro X gave the pop-up’s New Zealand-born chef, Ben John, the permanent head chef role in December last year. With experience cooking at the likes of Vue du Monde, Pure South, and London’s The Ledbury, Ben’s cooking is very much aligned to the seasonal, French-leaning, modern Australian theme of Bistro X.

Produce is of the highest quality, sourced from independent, mostly Victorian producers, that he’s built relationships with over the years. It’s technique driven food, simple at heart, that lets the produce shine. While the French influence is apparent throughout the menu, Ben’s cooking also draws upon Melbourne’s rich, multicultural tapestry, and incorporates native ingredients.

A rich, duck liver tartelette, with black apple and Comte, is a decedent way to kick off your meal. If you’d like to start with something lighter, there’s a refreshing melon skewer with Guindilla pepper, fennel pollen, and lime.

Moving from snacks to entrees, the beef tartare with egg yolk, and house made crisps, is an easy choice. I also highly recommend what was, for me, one of the standout dishes of the night – an octopus “ratatoullie” with fermented capsicum vinaigrette, and lime labneh. It’s the intersection of Southern France, and North Africa, with a Melbourne touch, on a plate.

For larger plates, it’s things like mussels with Gascony butter, and sourdough; market fish with brown butter, capers, lemon, and fennel; and Blackmore wagyu steaks. Try the ‘Denver’ cut, a wonderfully marbled piece of steak meat from the chuck, similar to bavette, not often seen in Australia.

The drinks menu features house and classic cocktails, local beers, and a diverse wine list featuring local and European drops. Bistro X also operates as StandardX’s breakfast dining spot. At that time, you’ll find quality versions of Melbourne brunch classics like smashed avocado on toast, chilli scrambled eggs, and a bacon and egg sandwich.


Bistro X

419 Fitzroy Street
Fitzroy
Victoria 3065
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9124 4814
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Mon: 7:00am to 11:00am
Tue – Thu: 7:00am to 11:00am, 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Fri: 7:00am to 11:00am, 12:00pm to 3:00pm, 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Sat: 8:00am to 3:00pm, 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Sun: 8:00am to 11:00am

ChickyBoi, Fitzroy

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MELBOURNE | When you’ve been tweaking your home-made fried chicken sandwich recipe for so long that it’s reached the stage where you think it’s better than (or at least as good as) the best that’s on offer anywhere else in Melbourne, what do you do? In the case of civil engineer, Adriel Reddy, you start running pop-ups across Melbourne in your spare time.

Adriel launched ChickyBoi in October 2024, and momentum steadily built as more and more Melburnians tried his fried chicken sandwiches at places like Palomino Bar, Pizza Elettrica, and Welcome To Brunswick. At the start of this year, the space in the bottle shop side of Near & Far, last home to yakitori pop-up Matsuyama (which now has a permanent location in Prahran Market), became available. Adriel jumped at the opportunity to give ChickyBoi a semi-permanent home, and made the decision to quit his day job, and dedicate himself to ChickyBoi full-time.

The menu consists of two chicken sandwiches. The ‘ChickyBoi OG’ features seasoned fried chicken, dill ranch, dill pickles, and iceberg lettuce, inside a soft Martin’s potato roll. The second option, ‘SpicyBoi’, fills a Martin’s potato roll with Nashville spicy oil-dipped fried chicken, dill ranch sauce, bread and butter pickles, and iceberg lettuce. Occasionally, you’ll find a third, rotating special on the menu. When I visited it was a banh mi-inspired chicken sandwich, ‘Lunarboi’. A few weeks prior, there was a Chick-fil-A-inspired honey mustard mayo creation.

The chicken is, of course, the superstar of each sandwich. Hand-breaded, double-dredged, and rested chicken thigh, resulting in an ultra-crispy coating and juicy meat. Combined with well-balance flavours and textures, you’ve got chicken sandwiches that are deserving of their reputation.

Adriel mentioned to me that he doesn’t just want to sell some of the best fried chicken sandwiches in Melbourne, but the best, period. He’s constantly tweaking his recipe, for example experimenting with different resting times and temperatures to achieve a stronger adherence between the coating and the chicken. There’s no chips on the menu yet. Adriel says he’s got them to the level of ‘really good’, but won’t put them on the menu until they’re ‘the best’.

Combine this kaizen-like philosophy with a product that’s already excellent, and it’s easy to see why ChickyBoi, whilst already great, is likely going to get better. I look forward to eating through the evolution.


ChickyBoi

375 Brunswick Street
Fitzroy
Victoria 3065
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 7:30am to 11:30pm

Mondo Gelateria, Melbourne CBD

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MELBOURNE | Recent years have seen a slew of new gelato spots opening up across Melbourne, catering to this city’s insatiable appetite for the creamy treat. One of the newest is Mondo Gelateria, which opened last month. I was recently invited in to visit, and spent some time chatting with owner, and head gelato maker, Rio Olivetti.

Rio hails from Verona, but has lived in Melbourne for many years. Starting his hospitality career as waiter at Evolution Bar, he fell in love with mixology and bartending, progressing his career and eventually managing venues like Penny Black, and Black Pearl. He started his bottled cocktail business, Numero IX, during lockdowns, which he still runs today.

Owning his own gelateria was something that always appealed to Rio, but he wanted to more than just an owner, so enrolled at Bologna’s renowned Carpigiani Gelato University, learning how to make gelato from one of the world’s best, Stefano Tarquinio. This training, combined with a deep knowledge of flavours and balance honed by years spent developing cocktails, shines through when you try the gelato at Mondo.

There’s 28 core and limited traditional and less common gelato and sorbet flavours on offer, inspired by the flavours of the world. Everything is made on site, using the best quality local and imported ingredients. Creaminess, balance of flavour, and restraint is a common thread throughout.

The signature pistachio crunch gelato is a must try. An excellent version of the classic, made using premium pistachios from Sicily. Pandan kaya uses fresh pandan, cold extracted on site, while lemon cheesecake with almond faithfully recreates the layered flavours you find in the namesake cake. Cake fans should also try the black forest, with chunks of chocolate sponge, and kirsch-soaked Amarena cherries.

For sorbet, pink guava provides a burst of freshness that shouts ‘summer’, as does the calamansi plum. Lemon chai is a flavour that Rio is particularly proud of, one that took him the longest to perfect. Eat it, and you’ll taste the spice notes of the chai first, followed by a rush of lemon soon after. It’s a delight.

Beyond gelato, there’s cookies and pastries from in-house Taiwanese pastry chefs Peini Yu and Jasper Yang. There’s Veneziano coffee, and iced coffee and tea creations. Try the ‘Silk Road’, a blend of espresso, pistachio milk, chocolate cream, and pink salt.

After dark, you’ll find alcohol-infused creations, along with DJs spinning tunes on the decks. If you see Rio, be sure to have a chat. He’s one of those owner-operators that exemplifies what hospitality is all about, and loves chatting with customers.


Mondo Gelateria

215 Elizabeth Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 7:30am to 11:30pm

Flying Scoot Economy Class From Melbourne To Singapore

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TRAVEL | Scoot operate between one and two flights a day between Melbourne and Singapore. The Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner (“Dreamliner”) is currently used on the route. Travellers can choose between Economy, and ScootPlus class. I flew Economy Class. The average flight time on this route is 7 hours and 45 minutes.

Check In

You can check in online, or using Scoot’s app. You can enter in all relevant information before your flight, and receive an electronic boarding pass that you can print, access from the Scoot app, or add to your Apple or Google Wallet. There’s also the option of checking in at the airport using a kiosk or at a staffed counter.

If you have luggage to check in, you can print your bag tag(s) from the kiosks at the airport using you boarding pass. You can also head over to a staffed counter.

Loyalty

Scoot is part of the Singapore Airlines Group, and is linked to Singapore Airline’s KrisFlyer loyalty program, which is free to join. Note that while flying Scoot will earn you KrisFlyer points, they won’t earn you Star Alliance points.

There is no Scoot lounge at Melbourne airport.

Luggage

Being a low-cost airline, there are a variety of different combinations of ticket type and addons that will determine how much luggage you’re allowed to check in and bring on board.

All Scoot Economy tickets allow you take on piece of cabin luggage on board, plus a small bag, with a total weight of no more than 10kg (22lb). ScootPlus tickets bump up the weight allowance to 15kg (33lb).

Checked luggage is not included with Scoot Economy tickets. If you want to have checked luggage, you purchase an addon that gets you between 20kg (44lb) and 40kg (88lb) of checked luggage allowance. ScootPlus tickets come with 30kg (66lb) of checked luggage allowance, with the same addon options as in Economy, if you need more.

Service

Having brought my own food, snacks, and water on board, I had minimal interaction with the staff during my flight. From my observations, staff looked to be professional and efficient.

Cabin

The Scoot Economy cabin on the Dreamliner that flies from Melbourne to Singapore features 314 seats, in a 3-3-3 layout. It’s a clean, basic cabin, with a white, yellow, and blue colour scheme, in line with Scoot’s branding.

Seat

The fabric seat has dimensions of about 79cm x 42cm (31in x 16.5in). It’s a small light, slimline seat, so you don’t have much in the way of leg room. The seats are narrower than most, and it’s noticeable. I found the fabric and cushioning to be more comfortable that the similarly sized pleather seat that I experienced flying AirAsia few months prior. While there are options to upgrade to a seat with more legroom (Economy’s ‘Scoot-in-Silence’ section), all Economy seats are the same width. If you want a wider seat, you need to book a ScootPlus ticket.

Like any economy seat, the seat doesn’t recline that far back (15cm/6in). There’s a small mesh pocket that you can fit a book or a few small items in. Being a mesh pocket, be sure to check that nothing small has slipped out before you leave the plane.

There is in seat power, but unless you have a ScootPlus ticket, you’ll need to pay for an addon to be able to access the power.

Entertainment

There’s no in-flight entertainment on this route, and no seat-back screens. Make sure your devices are fully charged before you board.

Food

My basic Economy ticket did not include any food. Knowing this, I stocked up on some snacks and and a meal to get me through the flight. Water is provided, with more water available on request. As it turns out, snacks are OK, but you’re not meant to bring outside meals on board. When the attendant spotted me eating my take-away container of noodles (dry, not soupy), I was reminded of this fact, but was allowed to finish them. My advice is to stick to things that at least look snacky for a ‘main’ meal, and don’t require a plate/bowl or utensils. Sushi rolls, wraps, etc.

If you do want to purchase food and drink, there’s a decent selection of snacks, drinks, and hot meals on offer. If you want one of the hot meals, you need to pre-book at least 24 hours before your flight. It’s quite well priced compared to what you usually pay on low-cost airlines, with options like

Options for the hot meals include things like Nasi Lemak, Chicken Biriyani, Laksa, and Pomodoro Pasta. For snacks that haven’t been pre-booked, it’s things like wraps, sandwiches, and cake.

Amenities

There are no amenities on this flight.

Verdict

This was my first time flying Scoot, and it delivered almost everything that I expect from a budget airline. A small, but acceptable seat, a clean cabin, and an on-time departure and arrival. The ‘no outside meals’ rule is something that I’ve not encountered on other budget airlines before, but it’s easily dealt with by sticking to snacks and something ‘hands only’ for a more substantial feed. Given how much money I saved on this flight compared to if I’d flown a full service airline, I’d definitely fly Scoot again.

Lieu Privé, Hawthorn East

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MELBOURNE | Options for a quality alcoholic tipple in Hawthorn East tend to be focused around beer and wine. Recent openings have upped the game for both, but cocktail options have been lacking. Enter, recently opened cocktail bar, Lieu Privé, which I was recently invited to.

Owner Ari, a local, opened Lieu Privé after travelling around Asia and visiting several of the region’s top cocktail bars. She wanted to recreate what she loved about those bars, in her own neighbourhood, so set about opening a bar with her mum. Housed in and old shop with a residence upstairs, you’ll find four distinct spaces at Lieu Privé, with an outdoor courtyard coming soon.

Each intimate space is designed to evoke a different mood. The ‘Room of Memories’ is the place for quiet conversation, while the ‘Room of Desires’ is perfect for a date night. The ‘Room of Thoughts’ encourages guests to slow down, while the main bar, the ‘Copper Room’ leans towards groups and social nights.

You’re greeted with a shot on arrival, which differs depending on the room you’re in. A selection of face-down cards help guide you towards your first drink, and if that’s not your jam, there’s a regular menu at hand. Ari is an ebullient host, full of passion, and always happy to have a chat, guide you through the menu, and explain what Lieu Privé is all about.

I really enjoyed the smoky ‘Mezcal Me Later’, featuring charred pineapple and jalapeno-infused Illegal Mezcal, agave, and lime. I also tried a creation paired with a sage ‘joint’ designed to be smoked before taking a sip of your cocktail, that was a great flavour and sensation pairing.

To eat, its things like cheese and charcuterie platters, chicken dumplings, mushroom croquettes, and booze-infused ice-cream. Many dishes features Asian and Indian flourishes, designed by Ari’s mum, who hails from India. Be sure to try the ‘Bombay Milan’ crispy flatbread.


Lieu Privé

602 Burwood Road
Hawthorn East
Victoria 3123
Australia

Telephone: 0415 620 041
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Sun, Wed – Thu: 6:00pm to 11:00pm
Fri – Sat: 6:00pm to 1:00am

Raas Indian, Brunswick

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MELBOURNE | When Janhavi and Venkatesh (Venks) Kanchan moved to Australia, they wanted to open an Indian restaurant. Settling into a new country and raising a young family put a pause on plans for a while. When the opportunity arose to purchase Sydney Road stalwart, Tom Phat, in 2023, they decided to take it.

Running Tom Phat, and getting to know the area and its locals, combined with the relative lack of good Indian food in the area, confirmed to Janhavi and Venks, that the next step should be to open the Indian restaurant they’d always wanted to. When the space formerly home to Baba Hawker, just a few doors up from Tom Phat, became available late last year, they took over the lease, and Raas Indian was born. A few weeks ago, Janhavi and Venks invited me in to take a look.

Raas Indian showcases the diversity of Indian cuisine, mostly sticking to tradition, with a few playful twists along the way. Janhavi has a Maharashtrian and Kannadigan background, and grew up all over India, and aspects of all of this can be found on the menu. The earthiness and spice-forwards aspects of Maharashtrian food feature, as does the subtle, balanced approach of Kannadigan food. Head chef Satbir Singh, who has almost 20 years experience in the kitchen of four and five star hotels across India, makes all of his dishes from scratch each day, including freshly grinding all of Raas Indian’s spice mixes.

Juicy, tandoor-cooked chicken tikka is a top tier take on the classic favourite. So too, the crisp yoghurt and cheese dahi kebabs, with a soft, oozy centre. For something playful, try the ‘KFC’, which puts a Kerala-spin on Southern US-style fried chicken.

The curry section of the menu is extensive, with 22 meat and vegetarian options to choose from, covering all dietaries. There’s favourites like butter chicken, lamb rogan josh, and saag aloo, plus regional specialities such as Dhaba-style North Indian goat curry, chicken rara, and chingri malai curry. The latter, a Bengali curry featuring plump prawns cooked a rich, creamy, coconut milk-based sauce, is a highlight. There’s rice and an assortment of tandoor-baked naan, roti, and paratha to go with it, or course. Be sure to try the keema naan, which is stuffed with spiced minced lamb.

There’s a handful of traditional desserts like gulab jamun and kulfi to finish things off, plus an assortment of Indian and local beer, wine, and spirits. House cocktails put an Indian spin on the classics. For example, the refreshing paan mojitio, with white rum, Jaan Paan liqueur, simple syrup, club soda, and mint leaves.


Raas Indian

148 Sydney Road
Brunswick
Victoria 3056
Australia

Telephone: (03) 8338 1166
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Sun – Mon: 5:00pm to 9:00pm
Tue – Sat: 5:00pm to 9:30pm

48 Hours In Seoul: Things To Do

SEOUL | Korean culture has taken the world by storm over the past decade. K-Pop and K-Dramas are popular all over the world, Korean food is becoming known for much more than just Korean Barbecue, and Korean brands are ubiquitous in many of our lives. As you’d expect, this has led to an increase in tourism to Korea. In particular, the capital, Seoul.

Seoul is a large city, and there are a lot of things to do for first-time, and return visitors. The city is relatively affordable compared to other, similar large developed cities, and is full of history and wonder. From traditional to modern architecture, traditional and contemporary food, shopping, natural beauty, and more, Seoul’s diverse neighbourhoods are packed with things to do.

Below, you’ll find a list of the best things to do in Seoul. Let me know if there are any ‘must do’ things that you like doing in Seoul that you think should be on the list.


Admire Traditional Hanok Architecture

Seoul’s unique traditional houses, known as hanoks, are rapidly disappearing from the city as it develops and modernises. Dating back to the 14th century, during the Joseon dynasty, hanoks are noted for their use of natural materials like soil, timber, and rock. They feature distinctive curved, tiled roofs, and wooden beams.

Bukchon Hanok Village is a residential neighbourhood in Seoul that’s popular with visitors for its many restored hanoks. Other areas with great examples of the architecture are Seochon, and Ikseon-dong. The latter is my favourite of the three, filled with lots of great little eateries and bars.

Bring Cash

Most of what you’ll want to do in Seoul can be paid for using Apple Pay or Google Pay, or your physical credit card. If you plan to use the (excellent) public transport system though, you’re out of luck. Seoul has only recently started moving towards accepting card payments for public transport, and at the moment it’s restricted to a few specific local bank cards. If you want to top up your “T-money” public transport card, you’ll need cash.

Check Out The City’s Diverse Neighbourhoods

Seoul is a large, very densely populated city without a true centre as such. Most visitors will base themselves in the city’s historic centre, Jongno-gu, or the adjoining retail and entertainment district of Myeong-dong. They’re both great areas for first-time visitors to the city, but be sure to not restrict yourself to this part of town.

Getting around to other neighbourhoods is quick and easy using the metro system. Four of my favourite parts of Seoul are the upscale, fashionable, retail, dining, and entertainment district of Gangnam (yes, the one from the song); the youthful, creative, artistic former industrial neighbourhood, Seongsu-dong; the student, nightlife area, Hongdae; and the international, expat hub, Itaewon. Each one of these neighbourhoods has a distinct vibe, and is well worth a visit.

Download The Naver Maps App

Google Maps exists in Korea, but it’s not particularly useful. For reasons I won’t bore you with, turn-by-turn navigation is essentially useless. On top of that, since it’s mostly Westerners that use the app, you’ll find Google reviews that appear for food venues in particular, aren’t reflective of what locals think is good, making the even more unhelpful than usual.

Thankfully, there are English versions of the local apps available. Naver and Kakao are the two main Google Maps alternatives in Korea. While the English implementation on both isn’t perfect, Naver is the easier to use of the two for English speakers. You’ll get useful turn-by-turn navigation using the app, and the reviews of food spots are more in line with what locals think is good.

A tip that I found useful was to map all of the places that I wanted to see in a Google Maps list, then when I wanted to visit, to copy the Korean translation of the name into Naver Maps.

See The City From Namsan Mountain

Yes, it’s quite a touristy thing to do, but heading to the top of Namsan Mountain, is well worth doing for a spectacular view of the city. Namsan Park is a beautiful park, and the city’s largest. Many people choose to head further up, to the top of N Seoul Tower, but I think the view that you get from the top of the mountain is all you need, without having to wait in line or pay for the tower.

You can get a cable car to the top of Namsan Mountain, but be warned that the line for this can get quite long. Instead, plan ahead and go for a nice walk up to the top, through the park, or catch one of the regular busses that heads to the peak.

Eat Outdoor Korean Barbeque

There’s a lot more to Korean cuisine than barbeque (more on that in the next section), but there’s a reason why Korean barbeque is so popular around the world. It’s communal, fun, delicious, and accessible. You can mix and match ingredients to suit any taste, from marinated meats like bulgogi and galbi, to vegetables, and assorted banchan (sides) like rice, kimchi, and pickles.

If you want a barbeque experience that’s a bit different from the usual, head to the Ikseon-dong Hanok Village. Here’s you’ll find a large, open outdoor area with blocked-off roads and side-streets, filled with makeshift tables and seats filled with people enjoying barbecue. It’s a great vibe.

Enjoy The Region’s Delicious Cuisine

Korean cuisine traditionally centres around rice, vegetables, and seafood. Banchan (side dishes) are also a key component of many Korean meals. There’s a wide variety of soups (guk), stews (jjigae), noodles dishes (guksu), and desserts. From street food, to unassuming family-run hole in the wall spots, to Micheling starred restaurants and World’s Top 50 listed bars, Seoul has something for everyone, at all price levels.

A few dishes that I recommend you try, and where to try them, are:

  • San-nakji is a korean delicacy that consists of long arm octopus, that is served raw. Try it at Hyeongje Yukhoe, inside the Gwangjang Market. The most popular order is nakji tangtangi, which gets you a serve of san-nakji atop yukhoe (beef tartare) and a raw egg yolk. It’s seasoned with sesame seeds, sesame oil, and pine nut powder. You also get a soy-based dipping sauce, a sweet dipping sauce, and light soup
  • Established in 1966, Myeongdong Kyoja specialises in dumplings and noodle soup. The four options, all of which you should order, are
    • Bibimguksu: Mixed noodles with kimchi and soy sauce
    • Kalguksu: Knife-cut noodles with chicken broth
    • Mandu: Steamed pork, vegetable, and leek dumplings with sesame oil
    • Kongguksu: Cold soy milk noodle soup
  • Juk is a savoury rice-based porridge. You might know the Chinese version, congee. A bowl of the signature abalone juk from popular chain, Bonjuk, is a great option. You get a big bowl of creamy abalone juk that’s relatively unseasoned on its own. It’s served with a variety of seasonings and sides so you can customise each mouthful to your liking. There’s also options like braised beef, pine mushrooms, and seafood.
  • Traditional Set Lunch: Visit Cheonggukjang Bap, where you can get a hearty, steaming bowl of cheonggukjang (a vegetable, tofu, and fermented soybean stew), vegetable bibimbap (steamed rice with additions to mix in), banchan, and your choice of protein. I opted for a spicy sauced whole-fried mackerel.
  • Tteokbokki. There’s a stall at Gwangjang market, unmistakable with a big vat of tteokbokki being stirred in bubbling red sauce. The brilliant, dense, springy, tteokbokki, is served with crunchy radish and shredded turnip. It’s swimming in sweet and moderately spicy gochujang, and is divine. Go for the upgraded version which also contains assorted twigims. Twigims are lightly battered bites, akin to tempura. The version here contains shrimp, gimmari (glass noodle seaweed rolls), and sweet potato. I also highly recommend getting a serve of the saucy, deep-fried sundae (Korean blood sausage).
  • Jokbal is a Korean dish of pigs trotters that have been slow cooked with soy sauce and spices. It evolved from braised pork, in Korea’s Pyongan and Hwanghae provinces, and eventually spread across the nation. The meat is super tender, and the fat melts in your mouth. Comvined with the soft, gelatinous skin, its a taste sensation. Paired with bossam (slow cooked pork belly), and enjoyed with pickles (including beondegi- crunchy silkworm pupae) and veg wrapped in perilla and lettuce leaves, it’s next level. A great place to try it is Manjok Oh Huang Jokbal. I visited the original Hongdae location, but they have three other locations around town. The complimentary dumpling soup is too notch, as is the popular Korean cold noodle salad side, bibim guksu.
  • Seolleongtang (설렁탕) is a light rice and noodle soup made using ox bones, brisket and other beef cuts. You should try it a hole-in-the-wall, spot, Pungnyeonok Seolleongtang. Seasoning is seasoned at the table by adding salt, and ground black pepper. Everyone gets a serve of Pungnyeonok Seolleongtang’s wonderfully garlicy and spicy kimchi. Be sure to grab the two side options as well – flavour packed slow boiled, thin sliced head meat, and bindae-tteok (fried mung bean pancake).

Head Out To The DMZ

Yes, it’s not in Seoul as a such, but at only 1-1.5 hours drive away depending on traffic, the Korean Demilitarised Zone (“DMZ”) is definitely something that first timers to Korea should do. The DMZ is a strip of land running across the Korean Peninsula which intersects the 38th parallel north. It was established to serve as a buffer zone between North and South Korea under the provisions of the Korean Armistice Agreement in 1953.

You can do tours that range anywhere from a half day, to a full day. I did a “DMZ Essential Course (Half Day Tour)“, which departed Seoul at 8am, and was back in Seoul by 2pm.

The tour was in English, and the guide, Jenny, was very informative. The tour starts at Imjingak Park, which contains several monuments and memorials, and active reminders of the Korean War and it lasting impact. Things like closed off bridges with bullet holes, ruined rail lines that used to connect to two Koreas, and more. It’s the first place where you can look across barbed-wire fences and see North Korea.

Next, you enter the DMZ proper. After passing through security checkpoints, you can walk through a small museum, before heading down into one of the several infiltration tunnels built by North Korea, as part of a secret invasion plan after the Korean War. At the sealed-off end of the tunnel, you’re a mere 170 metres from the border.

Finally, it’s a short drive to Dora Observatory, where you can use binoculars to see across to North Korea. There’s a small industrial area, and a North Korean ‘propaganda village’ which are quite interesting. It’s a short snack and drinks break after this, before heading back to Seoul.

Go To A Museum

There are over 100 museums in Seoul, ranging from large buildings with extensive permanent collections and exhibits, to tiny, niche spots. Whatever you’re into, you’re sure to find something that appeals.

Established in 1945, The National Museum of Korea is the premier museum of Korean history and art in South Korea. Housed over three floors, the museum focuses on archaeology, history, and art. The left of the museum represents the past, and the right represents the future. Entry is free, but there is a charge for special exhibits.

I’m a big fan of the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History. This museum opened in 2012, and is also free to visit. It’s dedicated to researching, preserving, and exhibiting the modern and contemporary history of South Korea. Across four permanent exhibition halls, you learn about the period from the late 19th century to the present. I found this museum to give me a lot of context and insight into things that I had only a vague understanding of, prior.

For fans of modern and contemporary art, the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art is a must visit. The museum has four locations across Korea – the Seoul location is housed next to, and on, the former Military Defense Security Command building, which is architecturally interesting in its own right. The museum’s permanent exhibition presents the evolution of Korean art from the post-war period to the present. Artworks are presented and connected by them, rather than date, with information plaques that are particularly informative (and in English).

Other museums of interest include the Seoul Arts Center, which focuses on performing arts, contemporary art, plastics, and calligraphy; the Lleum Museum of Art, which contains the private collection of Samsung – mostly traditional and contemporary art; and Daelim Museum. The latter museum studies, analyses, and presents modern art through the lens of photography and holds exhibitions centred around photo media.

Stock Up On Korean Cosmetics

In recent years, Korean skincare and cosmetic products have become a worldwide phenomenon. There’s a focus on natural and organic ingredients, and the country is at the forefront of skincare research and developments. Of course, Korea is the best place in the world to stock up on Korean skincare products.

My recommendation is local chain, Olive Young. It’s Korea’s largest cosmetics, health and beauty product company, with over 1,300 stores. Seemingly everywhere you look in Seoul, there’s an Olive Young store. It’s the best place to find the biggest range of products, for the best prices.

Stroll Along Cheonggyecheon

Cheonggyecheon is a 10.9km stream and public space that runs through the heart of Seoul. An open sewer in the first half of the 20th century, it was concreted over in the 1950s, then converted into an elevated highway in the 1970s. The highway was demolished in 2003, and what followed is considered one of the most successful global urban renewal projects. The stream was restored, biodiversity increased, historic bridges were rebuilt, air quality improved, and traffic on nearby roads actually improved.

Today, Cheonggyecheon is home to native flora and fauna, art installations, spaces to relax, and more. One of my favourite parts is the world’s largest outdoor library, which started out as little outdoor spot in the plaza out the front of Seoul Metropolitan Library. Spanning both sides of a length of Cheonggyecheon, Seoul Outdoor Library contains books in Korean and English. Select one, find a spot, grab a lantern if it’s dark, read, and chill.

Visit A Fresh Produce Market

Seoul has numerous fresh produce markets, offering visitors the opportunity to not just purchase some of the best quality product in town, but to also try cooked meals at the many stalls and humble eateries that dot each market and its surrounds. Three of the most popular and accessible for first-time visitors to Seoul are Namdaemun, Dongdaemun, Gwangjang.

My favourite is Gwangjang, the first permanent market in Korea. Starting life as a small trading market, featuring regional specialities from across Korea, Gwangjang expanded to sell almost everything food-related that you could want. For visitors, the market is most known for its large selection of street food and vendors. There’s a large, open, area, with plenty of smaller areas that branch off it. You can enjoy a variety of delicacies here, including some of my recommendations in the earlier food section of this article. Come hungry, look at where the locals are eating, and be sure to try lots of things.

Wander Through Gyeongbukgung Palace

Established in 1395, Gyeongbokgung Palace was the first royal palace of Korea’s Joseon dynasty, and remains the largest in the country. Like Korea itself, the palace has been through a lot. Today, 89 of the almost 400 original buildings stand, painstakingly restored during the 1990s and 2000s. By 2045, the plan is for a further 90 of the original buildings to have been rebuilt, just as they originally were.

It’s one of the most significant tourist attractions in Korea, and you should be sure to dedicate at least an hour to allow yourself time to walk through the expansive site, and see all of the buildings, gardens, and grounds.

Watch A Live Baseball Match

Baseball was introduced to Korea by American missionaries in 1905, and has grown to become the most popular professional sport in Korea today. The baseball season runs from March to October, with Seoul-based teams, LG Twins, and Doosan Bears, regularly seeing attendances of over 20,000 to each home game.

The atmosphere at games is electric, with crowds being loud and boisterous, but respectful. There’s lots of singing and chanting, K-pop cheerleaders, and plenty of Korean snacks to eat. It’s a great vibe, regardless of whether or not you’re into baseball.

You can purchase tickets at the stadium, but games sell out fast. There are many services that foreigners can use to buy tickets in advance, however (the official sites only accept Korean cards).