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Lieu Privé, Hawthorn East

Paul

2 February 2026

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MELBOURNE | Options for a quality alcoholic tipple in Hawthorn East tend to be focused around beer and wine. Recent openings have upped the game for both, but cocktail options have been lacking. Enter, recently opened cocktail bar, Lieu Privé, which I was recently invited to.

Owner Ari, a local, opened Lieu Privé after travelling around Asia and visiting several of the region’s top cocktail bars. She wanted to recreate what she loved about those bars, in her own neighbourhood, so set about opening a bar with her mum. Housed in and old shop with a residence upstairs, you’ll find four distinct spaces at Lieu Privé, with an outdoor courtyard coming soon.

Each intimate space is designed to evoke a different mood. The ‘Room of Memories’ is the place for quiet conversation, while the ‘Room of Desires’ is perfect for a date night. The ‘Room of Thoughts’ encourages guests to slow down, while the main bar, the ‘Copper Room’ leans towards groups and social nights.

You’re greeted with a shot on arrival, which differs depending on the room you’re in. A selection of face-down cards help guide you towards your first drink, and if that’s not your jam, there’s a regular menu at hand. Ari is an ebullient host, full of passion, and always happy to have a chat, guide you through the menu, and explain what Lieu Privé is all about.

I really enjoyed the smoky ‘Mezcal Me Later’, featuring charred pineapple and jalapeno-infused Illegal Mezcal, agave, and lime. I also tried a creation paired with a sage ‘joint’ designed to be smoked before taking a sip of your cocktail, that was a great flavour and sensation pairing.

To eat, its things like cheese and charcuterie platters, chicken dumplings, mushroom croquettes, and booze-infused ice-cream. Many dishes features Asian and Indian flourishes, designed by Ari’s mum, who hails from India. Be sure to try the ‘Bombay Milan’ crispy flatbread.

Lieu Privé

602 Burwood Road
Hawthorn East
Victoria 3123
Australia

Telephone: 0415 620 041
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Sun, Wed – Thu: 6:00pm to 11:00pm
Fri – Sat: 6:00pm to 1:00am

Raas Indian, Brunswick

Paul

26 January 2026

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MELBOURNE | When Janhavi and Venkatesh (Venks) Kanchan moved to Australia, they wanted to open an Indian restaurant. Settling into a new country and raising a young family put a pause on plans for a while. When the opportunity arose to purchase Sydney Road stalwart, Tom Phat, in 2023, they decided to take it.

Running Tom Phat, and getting to know the area and its locals, combined with the relative lack of good Indian food in the area, confirmed to Janhavi and Venks, that the next step should be to open the Indian restaurant they’d always wanted to. When the space formerly home to Baba Hawker, just a few doors up from Tom Phat, became available late last year, they took over the lease, and Raas Indian was born. A few weeks ago, Janhavi and Venks invited me in to take a look.

Raas Indian showcases the diversity of Indian cuisine, mostly sticking to tradition, with a few playful twists along the way. Janhavi has a Maharashtrian and Kannadigan background, and grew up all over India, and aspects of all of this can be found on the menu. The earthiness and spice-forwards aspects of Maharashtrian food feature, as does the subtle, balanced approach of Kannadigan food. Head chef Satbir Singh, who has almost 20 years experience in the kitchen of four and five star hotels across India, makes all of his dishes from scratch each day, including freshly grinding all of Raas Indian’s spice mixes.

Juicy, tandoor-cooked chicken tikka is a top tier take on the classic favourite. So too, the crisp yoghurt and cheese dahi kebabs, with a soft, oozy centre. For something playful, try the ‘KFC’, which puts a Kerala-spin on Southern US-style fried chicken.

The curry section of the menu is extensive, with 22 meat and vegetarian options to choose from, covering all dietaries. There’s favourites like butter chicken, lamb rogan josh, and saag aloo, plus regional specialities such as Dhaba-style North Indian goat curry, chicken rara, and chingri malai curry. The latter, a Bengali curry featuring plump prawns cooked a rich, creamy, coconut milk-based sauce, is a highlight. There’s rice and an assortment of tandoor-baked naan, roti, and paratha to go with it, or course. Be sure to try the keema naan, which is stuffed with spiced minced lamb.

There’s a handful of traditional desserts like gulab jamun and kulfi to finish things off, plus an assortment of Indian and local beer, wine, and spirits. House cocktails put an Indian spin on the classics. For example, the refreshing paan mojitio, with white rum, Jaan Paan liqueur, simple syrup, club soda, and mint leaves.

Raas Indian

148 Sydney Road
Brunswick
Victoria 3056
Australia

Telephone: (03) 8338 1166
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Sun – Mon: 5:00pm to 9:00pm
Tue – Sat: 5:00pm to 9:30pm

48 Hours In Seoul: Things To Do

Paul

24 January 2026

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SEOUL | Korean culture has taken the world by storm over the past decade. K-Pop and K-Dramas are popular all over the world, Korean food is becoming known for much more than just Korean Barbecue, and Korean brands are ubiquitous in many of our lives. As you’d expect, this has led to an increase in tourism to Korea. In particular, the capital, Seoul.

Seoul is a large city, and there are a lot of things to do for first-time, and return visitors. The city is relatively affordable compared to other, similar large developed cities, and is full of history and wonder. From traditional to modern architecture, traditional and contemporary food, shopping, natural beauty, and more, Seoul’s diverse neighbourhoods are packed with things to do.

Below, you’ll find a list of the best things to do in Seoul. Let me know if there are any ‘must do’ things that you like doing in Seoul that you think should be on the list.

Admire Traditional Hanok Architecture

Seoul’s unique traditional houses, known as hanoks, are rapidly disappearing from the city as it develops and modernises. Dating back to the 14th century, during the Joseon dynasty, hanoks are noted for their use of natural materials like soil, timber, and rock. They feature distinctive curved, tiled roofs, and wooden beams.

Bukchon Hanok Village is a residential neighbourhood in Seoul that’s popular with visitors for its many restored hanoks. Other areas with great examples of the architecture are Seochon, and Ikseon-dong. The latter is my favourite of the three, filled with lots of great little eateries and bars.

Bring Cash

Most of what you’ll want to do in Seoul can be paid for using Apple Pay or Google Pay, or your physical credit card. If you plan to use the (excellent) public transport system though, you’re out of luck. Seoul has only recently started moving towards accepting card payments for public transport, and at the moment it’s restricted to a few specific local bank cards. If you want to top up your “T-money” public transport card, you’ll need cash.

Check Out The City’s Diverse Neighbourhoods

Seoul is a large, very densely populated city without a true centre as such. Most visitors will base themselves in the city’s historic centre, Jongno-gu, or the adjoining retail and entertainment district of Myeong-dong. They’re both great areas for first-time visitors to the city, but be sure to not restrict yourself to this part of town.

Getting around to other neighbourhoods is quick and easy using the metro system. Four of my favourite parts of Seoul are the upscale, fashionable, retail, dining, and entertainment district of Gangnam (yes, the one from the song); the youthful, creative, artistic former industrial neighbourhood, Seongsu-dong; the student, nightlife area, Hongdae; and the international, expat hub, Itaewon. Each one of these neighbourhoods has a distinct vibe, and is well worth a visit.

Download The Naver Maps App

Google Maps exists in Korea, but it’s not particularly useful. For reasons I won’t bore you with, turn-by-turn navigation is essentially useless. On top of that, since it’s mostly Westerners that use the app, you’ll find Google reviews that appear for food venues in particular, aren’t reflective of what locals think is good, making the even more unhelpful than usual.

Thankfully, there are English versions of the local apps available. Naver and Kakao are the two main Google Maps alternatives in Korea. While the English implementation on both isn’t perfect, Naver is the easier to use of the two for English speakers. You’ll get useful turn-by-turn navigation using the app, and the reviews of food spots are more in line with what locals think is good.

A tip that I found useful was to map all of the places that I wanted to see in a Google Maps list, then when I wanted to visit, to copy the Korean translation of the name into Naver Maps.

See The City From Namsan Mountain

Yes, it’s quite a touristy thing to do, but heading to the top of Namsan Mountain, is well worth doing for a spectacular view of the city. Namsan Park is a beautiful park, and the city’s largest. Many people choose to head further up, to the top of N Seoul Tower, but I think the view that you get from the top of the mountain is all you need, without having to wait in line or pay for the tower.

You can get a cable car to the top of Namsan Mountain, but be warned that the line for this can get quite long. Instead, plan ahead and go for a nice walk up to the top, through the park, or catch one of the regular busses that heads to the peak.

Eat Outdoor Korean Barbeque

There’s a lot more to Korean cuisine than barbeque (more on that in the next section), but there’s a reason why Korean barbeque is so popular around the world. It’s communal, fun, delicious, and accessible. You can mix and match ingredients to suit any taste, from marinated meats like bulgogi and galbi, to vegetables, and assorted banchan (sides) like rice, kimchi, and pickles.

If you want a barbeque experience that’s a bit different from the usual, head to the Ikseon-dong Hanok Village. Here’s you’ll find a large, open outdoor area with blocked-off roads and side-streets, filled with makeshift tables and seats filled with people enjoying barbecue. It’s a great vibe.

Enjoy The Region’s Delicious Cuisine

Korean cuisine traditionally centres around rice, vegetables, and seafood. Banchan (side dishes) are also a key component of many Korean meals. There’s a wide variety of soups (guk), stews (jjigae), noodles dishes (guksu), and desserts. From street food, to unassuming family-run hole in the wall spots, to Micheling starred restaurants and World’s Top 50 listed bars, Seoul has something for everyone, at all price levels.

A few dishes that I recommend you try, and where to try them, are:

San-nakji is a korean delicacy that consists of long arm octopus, that is served raw. Try it at Hyeongje Yukhoe, inside the Gwangjang Market. The most popular order is nakji tangtangi, which gets you a serve of san-nakji atop yukhoe (beef tartare) and a raw egg yolk. It’s seasoned with sesame seeds, sesame oil, and pine nut powder. You also get a soy-based dipping sauce, a sweet dipping sauce, and light soup
Established in 1966, Myeongdong Kyoja specialises in dumplings and noodle soup. The four options, all of which you should order, are
- Bibimguksu: Mixed noodles with kimchi and soy sauce
- Kalguksu: Knife-cut noodles with chicken broth
- Mandu: Steamed pork, vegetable, and leek dumplings with sesame oil
- Kongguksu: Cold soy milk noodle soup
Juk is a savoury rice-based porridge. You might know the Chinese version, congee. A bowl of the signature abalone juk from popular chain, Bonjuk, is a great option. You get a big bowl of creamy abalone juk that’s relatively unseasoned on its own. It’s served with a variety of seasonings and sides so you can customise each mouthful to your liking. There’s also options like braised beef, pine mushrooms, and seafood.
Traditional Set Lunch: Visit Cheonggukjang Bap, where you can get a hearty, steaming bowl of cheonggukjang (a vegetable, tofu, and fermented soybean stew), vegetable bibimbap (steamed rice with additions to mix in), banchan, and your choice of protein. I opted for a spicy sauced whole-fried mackerel.
Tteokbokki. There’s a stall at Gwangjang market, unmistakable with a big vat of tteokbokki being stirred in bubbling red sauce. The brilliant, dense, springy, tteokbokki, is served with crunchy radish and shredded turnip. It’s swimming in sweet and moderately spicy gochujang, and is divine. Go for the upgraded version which also contains assorted twigims. Twigims are lightly battered bites, akin to tempura. The version here contains shrimp, gimmari (glass noodle seaweed rolls), and sweet potato. I also highly recommend getting a serve of the saucy, deep-fried sundae (Korean blood sausage).
Jokbal is a Korean dish of pigs trotters that have been slow cooked with soy sauce and spices. It evolved from braised pork, in Korea’s Pyongan and Hwanghae provinces, and eventually spread across the nation. The meat is super tender, and the fat melts in your mouth. Comvined with the soft, gelatinous skin, its a taste sensation. Paired with bossam (slow cooked pork belly), and enjoyed with pickles (including beondegi- crunchy silkworm pupae) and veg wrapped in perilla and lettuce leaves, it’s next level. A great place to try it is Manjok Oh Huang Jokbal. I visited the original Hongdae location, but they have three other locations around town. The complimentary dumpling soup is too notch, as is the popular Korean cold noodle salad side, bibim guksu.
Seolleongtang (설렁탕) is a light rice and noodle soup made using ox bones, brisket and other beef cuts. You should try it a hole-in-the-wall, spot, Pungnyeonok Seolleongtang. Seasoning is seasoned at the table by adding salt, and ground black pepper. Everyone gets a serve of Pungnyeonok Seolleongtang’s wonderfully garlicy and spicy kimchi. Be sure to grab the two side options as well – flavour packed slow boiled, thin sliced head meat, and bindae-tteok (fried mung bean pancake).

Head Out To The DMZ

Yes, it’s not in Seoul as a such, but at only 1-1.5 hours drive away depending on traffic, the Korean Demilitarised Zone (“DMZ”) is definitely something that first timers to Korea should do. The DMZ is a strip of land running across the Korean Peninsula which intersects the 38th parallel north. It was established to serve as a buffer zone between North and South Korea under the provisions of the Korean Armistice Agreement in 1953.

You can do tours that range anywhere from a half day, to a full day. I did a “DMZ Essential Course (Half Day Tour)“, which departed Seoul at 8am, and was back in Seoul by 2pm.

The tour was in English, and the guide, Jenny, was very informative. The tour starts at Imjingak Park, which contains several monuments and memorials, and active reminders of the Korean War and it lasting impact. Things like closed off bridges with bullet holes, ruined rail lines that used to connect to two Koreas, and more. It’s the first place where you can look across barbed-wire fences and see North Korea.

Next, you enter the DMZ proper. After passing through security checkpoints, you can walk through a small museum, before heading down into one of the several infiltration tunnels built by North Korea, as part of a secret invasion plan after the Korean War. At the sealed-off end of the tunnel, you’re a mere 170 metres from the border.

Finally, it’s a short drive to Dora Observatory, where you can use binoculars to see across to North Korea. There’s a small industrial area, and a North Korean ‘propaganda village’ which are quite interesting. It’s a short snack and drinks break after this, before heading back to Seoul.

Go To A Museum

There are over 100 museums in Seoul, ranging from large buildings with extensive permanent collections and exhibits, to tiny, niche spots. Whatever you’re into, you’re sure to find something that appeals.

Established in 1945, The National Museum of Korea is the premier museum of Korean history and art in South Korea. Housed over three floors, the museum focuses on archaeology, history, and art. The left of the museum represents the past, and the right represents the future. Entry is free, but there is a charge for special exhibits.

I’m a big fan of the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History. This museum opened in 2012, and is also free to visit. It’s dedicated to researching, preserving, and exhibiting the modern and contemporary history of South Korea. Across four permanent exhibition halls, you learn about the period from the late 19th century to the present. I found this museum to give me a lot of context and insight into things that I had only a vague understanding of, prior.

For fans of modern and contemporary art, the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art is a must visit. The museum has four locations across Korea – the Seoul location is housed next to, and on, the former Military Defense Security Command building, which is architecturally interesting in its own right. The museum’s permanent exhibition presents the evolution of Korean art from the post-war period to the present. Artworks are presented and connected by them, rather than date, with information plaques that are particularly informative (and in English).

Other museums of interest include the Seoul Arts Center, which focuses on performing arts, contemporary art, plastics, and calligraphy; the Lleum Museum of Art, which contains the private collection of Samsung – mostly traditional and contemporary art; and Daelim Museum. The latter museum studies, analyses, and presents modern art through the lens of photography and holds exhibitions centred around photo media.

Stock Up On Korean Cosmetics

In recent years, Korean skincare and cosmetic products have become a worldwide phenomenon. There’s a focus on natural and organic ingredients, and the country is at the forefront of skincare research and developments. Of course, Korea is the best place in the world to stock up on Korean skincare products.

My recommendation is local chain, Olive Young. It’s Korea’s largest cosmetics, health and beauty product company, with over 1,300 stores. Seemingly everywhere you look in Seoul, there’s an Olive Young store. It’s the best place to find the biggest range of products, for the best prices.

Stroll Along Cheonggyecheon

Cheonggyecheon is a 10.9km stream and public space that runs through the heart of Seoul. An open sewer in the first half of the 20th century, it was concreted over in the 1950s, then converted into an elevated highway in the 1970s. The highway was demolished in 2003, and what followed is considered one of the most successful global urban renewal projects. The stream was restored, biodiversity increased, historic bridges were rebuilt, air quality improved, and traffic on nearby roads actually improved.

Today, Cheonggyecheon is home to native flora and fauna, art installations, spaces to relax, and more. One of my favourite parts is the world’s largest outdoor library, which started out as little outdoor spot in the plaza out the front of Seoul Metropolitan Library. Spanning both sides of a length of Cheonggyecheon, Seoul Outdoor Library contains books in Korean and English. Select one, find a spot, grab a lantern if it’s dark, read, and chill.

Visit A Fresh Produce Market

Seoul has numerous fresh produce markets, offering visitors the opportunity to not just purchase some of the best quality product in town, but to also try cooked meals at the many stalls and humble eateries that dot each market and its surrounds. Three of the most popular and accessible for first-time visitors to Seoul are Namdaemun, Dongdaemun, Gwangjang.

My favourite is Gwangjang, the first permanent market in Korea. Starting life as a small trading market, featuring regional specialities from across Korea, Gwangjang expanded to sell almost everything food-related that you could want. For visitors, the market is most known for its large selection of street food and vendors. There’s a large, open, area, with plenty of smaller areas that branch off it. You can enjoy a variety of delicacies here, including some of my recommendations in the earlier food section of this article. Come hungry, look at where the locals are eating, and be sure to try lots of things.

Wander Through Gyeongbukgung Palace

Established in 1395, Gyeongbokgung Palace was the first royal palace of Korea’s Joseon dynasty, and remains the largest in the country. Like Korea itself, the palace has been through a lot. Today, 89 of the almost 400 original buildings stand, painstakingly restored during the 1990s and 2000s. By 2045, the plan is for a further 90 of the original buildings to have been rebuilt, just as they originally were.

It’s one of the most significant tourist attractions in Korea, and you should be sure to dedicate at least an hour to allow yourself time to walk through the expansive site, and see all of the buildings, gardens, and grounds.

Watch A Live Baseball Match

Baseball was introduced to Korea by American missionaries in 1905, and has grown to become the most popular professional sport in Korea today. The baseball season runs from March to October, with Seoul-based teams, LG Twins, and Doosan Bears, regularly seeing attendances of over 20,000 to each home game.

The atmosphere at games is electric, with crowds being loud and boisterous, but respectful. There’s lots of singing and chanting, K-pop cheerleaders, and plenty of Korean snacks to eat. It’s a great vibe, regardless of whether or not you’re into baseball.

You can purchase tickets at the stadium, but games sell out fast. There are many services that foreigners can use to buy tickets in advance, however (the official sites only accept Korean cards).

Cham, West Melbourne

Paul

13 January 2026

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MELBOURNE | Melbourne’s brunch scene is famous for being one of the world’s best. This city’s dedication to excellent coffee (and coffee-adjacent creations) is a part of it, as is a continued evolution as regards elevating brunch to something that can stand its own against the city’s quality lunch and dinner options.

Immigrants are another driving force behind Melbourne’s cafe scene, introducing aspects of their own cultures to create something personal, yet unmistakable a “Melbourne brunch”. Cham, a new Vietnamese cafe by couple Tony Nguyen and Christa Chan-Nguyen, is one such place. I was recently invited in to take a look.

Both Tony and Christa are trained chefs – Tony heads up the kitchen, while Christa runs front of house. The duo are passionate about what they’re trying to achieve with Cham. That is, creating an experience that showcases the best of their Vietnamese heritage, in a way that makes so much sense in a city like Melbourne.

The space is bright and airy, with high ceilings a white brick walls. Independent Vietnamese makers and designers form a big part of the interior. Furniture is made by Ho Chi Minh City design studio, LAITA, and lighting comes courtesy of Vietnamese brand, BằNG. There’s indigo-dyed fabric work by Hanoi’s Du Du, and hand-made objects from across Vietnam.

The menu features traditional and reimagined Vietnamese dishes, influenced by Tony’s fine-dining background, including stints in restaurants like Aru, Supernormal, and Firebird. One of my favourite Vietnamese breakfasts, bánh mì chảo, is a must try. A sizzling skillet of cold cuts, pork meatballs, house-made pâté, a gooey fried egg, and pickled vegetables. It’s served with toasted bánh mì, and whipped Laughing Cow cheese, and might be one of the best things you’ll eat for breakfast all year.

Other dishes include things like a croissant filled with typical bánh mì thịt ingredients and sate sauce; Northern-style short grain sticky rice with house made pâté, house pickles, Chinese sausage, pork floss, chả heo (pork meat loaf), fried shallot, marinated egg, dried shrimp, and sate sauce; and crispy rice paper sesame prawn rolls with coconut sauce.

Coffee is another big reason to visit Cham. They use beans from Coffee Supreme, as well as Vietnamese roaster, Every Half. The latter are one of Vietnam’s most progressive and interesting coffee roasters, showcasing just how good Vietnamese-grown coffee can be. Cham is the first time their beans have been available outside Vietnam.

You can get excellent traditional Western and Vietnamese coffee, along with a variety of creative coffee and tea-based drinks. Think ice-egg Vietnamese coffee, preserved kumquat and lemongrass soda, and a refreshing blend of cold brew coffee, apricot puree, and fresh lime, served in a glass lined with muối ớt (Vietnamese chilli salt).

Cham

25/31 Peel Street
West Melbourne
Victoria 3003
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Tue – Fri: 8:30am to 3:00pm
Sat – Sun: 9:00am to 4:00pm

Das Bierhaus, Richmond

Paul

9 January 2026

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MELBOURNE | When hospitality worker Deepak Jetti first visited Germany, he fell in love with the Bierhalle experience, and German culture and traditional around it. Moving to Australia, Deepak followed this passion, managing Melbourne’s Hofbräuhaus for eight years, before taking on the manager role at The Hof Downtown. When the former owner of the latter, Ash Reddy, opened Das Bierhaus in Geelong in April last year, Deepak, and his brother Giri, followed him. A few months ago, the trio opened Das Bierhaus in Richmond, with the aim of bringing a true German Bierhalle experience to the neighbourhood. I was recently invited in to take a look.

Das Bierhaus is housed inside the space formerly home to Burnley Brewing. It’s a fitting continuation, in a way, given that the former venue’s head brewer, Michael Stanzel, trained in Germany, and was known for brewing some of Melbourne’s best German-style beers. The front room is what Deepak describes as a modern Bierhalle meets sports bar. There’s booths and tables – the same basic layout as Burnley, with screens playing sport, and on-theme paraphernalia dotted around.

The second space, behind the bar, is more your traditional Bierhalle, and resembles the sorts of spots that initially sparked Deepak’s love of the concept. A family-friendly space, long, communal tables, furniture imported from Germany, and space for a live band. There’s plenty of German beer posters and trinkets, and the world’s largest freestanding operational cuckoo clock, built in the Black Forest.

Chatting to Deepak and Giri, and seeing the way that they interact with all of the customers, you can’t help but admire their passion. They’ve thought about a lot of little details that they wanted to get right, down to things that most probably wouldn’t notice. Things like the cutlery holders, and specialty cooking tools, are imported from Germany, as are ingredients, when a suitable local alternative can’t be sourced.

Pretzels, for example, come from a specially selected supplier in Germany, and are baked fresh on site. It’s a great way to start, along with things like flammkuchen (pizza-like Alsacen topped flatbread), and Schwarzwälder Schinken, Black Forest ham with Obatzda (a Bavarian aged Camembert and butter spread), on sourdough.

For mains, it’s classic dishes like six types of schnitzel, crispy Otway pork belly, and roast pork knuckle, with mashed potato, sauerkraut, apple caramel, mustard, and pork jus. I highly recommend the rinderrouladen. It’s a traditional dish of slow-cooked rolled beef, filled with bacon, gherkin, and caramelised onion, served with a pretzel dumping, braised red cabbage, and gravy. If it’s a schnitzel you’re after, the pretzel-crumbed chicken version, served with pan-fried potatoes, braised cabbage, and creamy mushroom sauce, is great.

One of the main reasons to visit a Bierhalle is of course, the beer. There’s a selection of around 16 different beers on tap, plus bottles. Classics like Hofbräu Original, Weihenstephaner Hefe, and Bayreuther Hell. If beer isn’t your thing, there’s also schnapps, German-themed cocktails, and a selection of local and German/Austrian wines and sodas.

Das Bierhaus

650 Bridge Road
Richmond
Victoria 3121
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9499 8208
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Tue – Sun: 12:00pm to 11:00pm

Balkan Skara, Epping

Paul

5 January 2026

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MELBOURNE | For 20 years, D.D’s Charcoal Grill, in Epping was a favourite with locals looking to get their fix of home-style Macedonian food. When the owners decided to retire, Marijan (“Marz”) Nikolovski, a regular customer, decided to take over the spot. With the original owner’s blessing (and their recipes), Marz renamed the restaurant to Balkan Skara (Skara means grill in Macedonian), and added some of his own family recipes to the mix.

You enter through the rear carpark, to the unmistakable smell of grilled meat coming from the open fire, manned by Marz. There’s a good chance you’ll be seated inside the humble space, by Marz’s wife, Angelina (“Ange”). There’s Macedonian music playing on the TVs, and an assortment of Macedonian decorations dotted about that wouldn’t feel out of place at baba or dedo’s house.

The menu features all of the Balkan classics, the regional versions most closely aligned to that you’ll find in modern-day North Macedonia. One of the things that I love about visiting Balkan restaurants is seeing the mostly subtle, but sometimes significant differences in dishes from places that might only be a geographically small distance apart. It’s always interesting to compare to the versions that I grew up with, that you’ll find in the Northern Greek-Macedonian border villages around Florina.

To start, grab either a shopska or tomato salad, along with some marinated grilled red bullhorn peppers. You’ll also want some ajvar (roasted red pepper and eggplant relish), and some kajmak, a house-made, buttery clotted cream. Lepinja, bread to spread it on, and dip into all of the veg and meat sauces, is provided in ample quantity.

For larger plates, tangy, dense sarma are a signature and a must try. They’re densely packed, spiced pork mince and rice parcels wrapped with pickled cabbage. Various mixed grill places provide an opportunity to try several of the grilled meats. Things like pork and beef kebapi (make sure you save some ajvar for these), pork neck, pork skewers, lamb chops, and chicken thighs.

For dessert, you can’t go wrong with tulumbi (syrupy donuts), and a cup of Turkish coffee. To drink, its a few wines from North Macedonian winery, Tikveš; an assortment of rakija; and local plus North Macedonian sodas, mixers, and beer. There’s also the option to BYO alcohol.

My advice is to come to Balkan Skara with a few people, or bring some containers for takeaway. Servings are generous, and you’ll want to try several things.

Balkan Skara

3/772 High Street
Epping
Victoria 3076
Australia

Telephone: (03) 8405 3820
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Tue – Wed: 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Thu – Sat: 12:00pm to 10:00pm
Sun: 12:00pm to 5:00pm

48 Hours In Paris: Things To Do

Paul

2 January 2026

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PARIS | When I lived in London, Paris was a city that I was lucky enough to be able to visit several times, such is the advantage of being a short, affordable train ride away. Living in Australia once more, I no longer visit so regularly, but whenever I do get back, I fall in love with the city all over again.

One of the things that I love about Paris is that it’s both the city that many are led to believe it is based on the marketing and tourist guides, and so much more. Paris is indeed, one of the world’s most beautiful cities, the people here do dress well, and it’s a romantic place. There’s plenty of bakeries selling croissants and baguettes, and the tourist sites are generally worth visiting. It’s also a vibrant, modern city. Paris is a gritty city, it’s a city filled with street art, it’s a city with multicultural neighbourhoods and a diverse creative and hospitality scene that reflects this.

Paris is a city that is proud of its history, but is constantly reinventing itself. Whenever I’m back, I’m always amazed at how many things have changed, and love discovering it all over again.

Below, you’ll find a list of what I think are some of the best things to do in Paris. Regardless of the kind of traveller that you are, you’ll find something to suit your tastes in Paris.

Browse Through A Street Produce Market

Paris’ famed central produce market, Les Halles, might have closed and demolished in 1973, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t still visit a fresh produce market in town. There are around 80 open-air produce markets dotted around Paris. Some are relatively permanent in nature, while other only operate on certain days of the week, with exact trading hours changing depending on the season.

Join the locals stocking up on the best quality French fruit and veg, meat, seafood, dairy, and more and grab yourself a few things that you can enjoy at a nearby park. A few good ones are Pont de l’Alma Market, on Avenue President Wilson (open Wed, Sat); Rue Montorgueil market (open daily), and Raspail Market, on Boulevard Raspail (open Tue, Fri, Sat).

Descend To The Catacombs

More than most cities, Paris is a place where a large number of its popular, tourist sites are very much worth visiting. Underneath the city, there’s believed to be over 300km of winding tunnels. Some of them date back to Roman times, and were carved out when quarrying the city for limestone. Only a small portion of the these tunnels are open to the public, one of which is the Catacombes de Paris.

Inside, you’ll find the remains over between six to seven million Parisians. Their bones were moved here when the city’s cemeteries were suffering from overcrowding between between 1787 and 1814. It’s an eerie, fascinating thing to see.

Go Up The Eiffel Tower

Speaking of tourist sites, the Eiffel Tower is perhaps the most touristy thing that I’ve ever included on one of my city lists. It very much belongs here, though. Designed and built by engineer Gustave Eiffel’s engineering firm between 1887 to 1889, this icon of Paris is a site to behold. The 330 metre tall, wrought-iron structure is so well maintained that it looks like new. Admire the tower from the ground below, or head up to the top for some of the most impressive views of Paris.

Head Out Of The Historic Centre

The first few times I visited Paris, I stuck to the most central of neighbourhoods. They are interesting and diverse, and if it’s your first time in the city, you can’t go wrong sticking to these neighbourhoods only. If you do, however, get the chance, I highly recommend checking out one of more of the city’s neighbourhoods just outside the historic centre.

They’re all easily accessible by Metro, and some are even walkable from the heart of town. Belleville is one of my favourites. It’s a former industrial area that attracts a youthful, creative, crowd, filled with trendy bars and eateries, and galleries. Nearby Ménilmontant is a somewhat grungier version of the former, popular with musicians and anti-establishment individuals.

Further out, there’s the relaxed, village-like charm of Auteuil; and the vibrant, multicultural neighbourhood, Barbès that are worth a visit. If you’re into modern architecture and skyscrapers, a visit to the business district of La Défense will open your eyes to a completely different side of Paris.

Immerse Yourself In The City’s Exciting Food & Drink Scene

Paris is, as you’d expect, one of the best cities in the world in which to eat French food. The city is filled with brilliant bistros and cafes, bakeries and patisseries, and plenty of places in which you will find excellent wine, charcuterie, cheese, and more.

It’s not just traditional French food that makes eating in Paris so good, though. There’s a long immigrant culture in this city, and you’ll find great food from all over the world. In particular, those places that were once part of the French Empire. You’ll find these influences in some of the city’s more contemporary restaurants, which blend French tradition and technique with personal cultural influences.

Paris’ contemporary restaurants have also been influenced by chefs that have travelled, worked in kitchens abroad, and are keen to expand the idea of what French food can be. Of course, the traditional spots, and new spots which take tradition but zone in more than ever on things like sourcing and sustainability, are all worth a visit too.

For some tips on restaurants, cafes, bars, and other places to enjoy the diversity of what Paris’ food and drink scene has to offer, take a look at my Paris Food Guide: Where To Eat.

Pay Respect To Icons Of The Past At Cimetière du Père-Lachaise

Paris most famous cemetery, Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, is the resting place of many famous historic figures, French and international. Buried in the hauntingly beautiful neo-Gothic cemetery, which opened in 1804, are people like Honoré de Balzac, Frédéric Chopin, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, and Édith Piaf.

Graves at Cimetière du Père-Lachaise range from unassuming headstones, to large monuments and statues. The cemetery is also a well maintained park, and home to a diverse array of native flora and fauna.

Seek Out Street Art

Paris is one of the best European cities in which to find street art. Starting with stencil art in the 1950s, the city’s graffiti scene evolved, and then exploded in the late 1960s. The street art scene continued to evolve in the following decades, and today, you’ll find street art all over Paris.

There’s a lot of political art to be found, along with whimsical pieces, murals that celebrate the city and its people, and artworks that reveal aspects of the artists’ personalities and lives. Check out my Paris Street Art Guide for more, including pictures and a guide to where to find the city’s best street art.

Visit A Museum

You’re sure to find something of interest in one of Paris’ 130-or-so museums. There’s the big hitters that everyone knows about, all of which are worth a visit, and lesser known museums focusing on more niche topics.

The most visited museum in the world, The Louvre, is of course a must visit. Beyond the Mona Lisa, there’s enough here to warrant multiple visits. The exhibitions are expertly curated and really put the artworks and artefacts in context. Lovers of sculpture and impressionism should visit Musée d’Orsay, while fans of contemporary art should check out both the Palais de Tokyo, and the Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton.

My favourite modern art museum in Paris is the Centre Pompidou. The “inside-out” building, designed by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers and opened in 1977, features usually hidden features of a building, like plumbing, ducts, and elevators, on the outside. The collection and rotating exhibits are great, but the architecture alone make the gallery one worth visiting.

A few of the lesser-known Paris museums that I enjoy are Maison Rouge, a former printing house turned contemporary art gallery, in Bastille; photography museum, Le BAL, at la place Clichy; and immigration museum, Cité Nationale de l’Histoire de l’Immigration (National Museum of the History of Immigration), in Paris’ Bel-Air neighbourhood.

Wander Around

Paris is one of the world’s most walkable cities, and well deserving of its reputation as one of the world’s most beautiful cities. It’s a city that’s best explored on foot. From its grand boulevards lined with impressive historic buildings, to its narrow, cobblestone-lined back streets and alleyways, there’s so much to see and discover.

I recommend you dedicate a few hours at least, to simple wandering around the city aimlessly. Give yourself extra time in-between seeing the things that you want to see to explore. Take a few random twists and turns off the main street, and you’ll discover interesting little boutiques, galleries, street art, and more. Le Marais, in particular, is one of my favourite parts of Paris to get lost in.

Circl, Melbourne CBD

Paul

30 December 2025

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MELBOURNE | Inside the cosy little laneway spot that was formerly home to Bar Saracen, you’ll find a venue that’s different in both appearance and concept. Circl, by former Ten Minutes by Tractor sommelier, Xavier Vigier, is a wine bar that’s making high-end wine accessible, and pairing it with excellent, European-leaning food. I was invited in the other day, to take a look.

The space is more open than before, still cosy, but with a more streamlined, minimalist look, and a long, open kitchen next to the bar, which is in the same place that the old bar was. Upstairs, you’ll find further seating, with full view of Circl’s long wine room, which features around 4,500 bottles.

There are a lot of great wine bars in Melbourne with a solid list of options available by the glass. If you want the really good stuff, however, you’ll generally have to pay some big coin for a full bottle. At Circl, you’ll find a global list of 150 wines available by the glass. Xavier wants guests to be able to try wines that they otherwise might not be able to afford, and prices them as keenly as possible. There’s entry-level drops for under $20 a glass, some of the most rare wines in the world for closer to $100 a glass, and everything in between.

Staff are expertly trained, and passionately explain the wines in an accessible and informative manner. There are, of course, cocktails, beer, and other drinks on the menu, but you really should try the wines. Having said that, drinks list aside, Circl is well worth a visit for the food. Malmö-born Executive Chef Elias Salomonsson (Scott Pickett Group, Vue Group), has developed a contemporary European-leaning menu, with influences from his native Sweden, using local and native Australian ingredients.

Snacks are a big part of the menu. Things like a delicate smoked eel tart with compressed cucumber, and horseradish; creamy mushroom parfait with dill, and rye bread; and a mind-bending corner Inlet calamari with nduja, morcilla, and celeriac.

For mains, Macedon Ranges duck with Davidson plum harissa, honey, and leek has become on of Circl’s signature dishes. The flavours work perfectly together, combining with the fennel-laced, crispy skin, and juicy meat for one of the best duck dishes in town.

To finish your meal, you have to try Elias’ take on one of his favourite childhood treats, Toblerone. It features a dark chocolate crèmeux base, white chocolate and honey crèmeux, sprayed with white chocolate, topped with honey & almond nougat, honeycomb, and vanilla ice cream.

Circl

22 Punch Lane
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9125 1777
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Sat, Tue – Wed: 5:30pm to 12:00am
Thu – Fri: 12:00pm to 3:00pm, 5:30pm to 12:00am

48 Hours In Athens: Things To Do

Paul

28 December 2025

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ATHENS | Most visitors to Greece tend to stick to Athens and the Greek Islands. These are great places to visit and explore, but for a Greek holiday that offers something different, the city’s second largest city, Thessaloniki, is worth checking out.

Located in the country’s North, Thessaloniki is a student town known for its history, vibrant nightlife, art and culture scene, food. There are plenty of things to do in Thessaloniki, and my Thessaloniki City Guide will help you make the most of your time there.

Founded in 315 BC, the city was once one of the most important cities in the world, at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. It’s been part of Roman/Byzantine Empire, Ottoman Empire, and the site of many regional structures. All of this history is apparent as you walk through the city. with a diversity of architecture, and historic sites.

Below, you’ll find a list of the best things to do in Thessaloniki. If it’s a short, city trip, or a nature focused break, you’ll find what you’re looking for in Thessaloniki.

Discover Ancient Greece

Ancient Greece was one of the most influential civilisations in human history. The birthplace of democracy, and ground-breaking developments in areas like philosophy, science, the arts, and sports, Ancient Greece’s is considered to be the cradle of Western civilisation. Its influence on later powers, like the Roman Empire, and today’s nation-states, can be seen everywhere.

Many of that era’s grandest structures were built in Athens, and a lot of them are still standing today. There’s famous spots like the iconic Acropolis of Athens & Parthenon, and lesser known gems to be found all over the city. Check out my article, Discovering Ancient Greece in Athens, for a list of my top Ancient Greek sites to visit in Athens.

Enjoy Greece’s Wonderful Cuisine

Greek cuisine is one that’s been shaped by the country’s history and strategic geographical importance over thousands of years. Similar to neighbouring Mediterranean countries, Greek cuisine is one that’s centred around brilliant fresh produce, olive oil, grains, and vegetables.

You’ll find dishes that trace their history back to the Ancient Greek and Roman Empires, as well as foods that showcase the interplay with Asian, Turkish, Balkan, and Italian cuisine. Given Athens’ oceanside locale, it’s no surprise that seafood is a key part of the Athenian diet. You’ll enjoy some of the freshest, best seafood you’ve ever eaten in Athens.

In recent years, Athens has experience somewhat of a renaissance. This has resulted in a city that has a food a drink scene that mixes traditional and modern, new and old. You can enjoy souvlaki and places that have been operating for over 100 years, and contemporary dishes at places which are redefining what Greek food can be.

For some tips on restaurants, cafes, bars, and other places to enjoy traditional and modern Greek food in Athens, take a look at my Athens Food Guide: Where To Eat.

Experience The City’s Diverse Neighbourhoods

Athens a city that many people use as a base before heading out to the Greek islands. If you stay super central, you can certainly get a flavour for what the city has to offer, and hit up most of the main sites. You will, however, miss out on much of what makes Athens such a fascination place to visit, if you don’t check out some of its neighbourhoods.

Athens is, in many ways, a city of diverse neighbourhoods. Each one is unique, and will reveal a different side of the city to you. With only 48 hours in Athens, you might be tempted to stick to neighbourhoods like Plaka (very touristy, but fun), historic Monastiraki, and trendy Psiri. These are all great neighbourhoods to visit, don’t get me wrong, but I’d recommend dedicating a few hours, at least, to a neighbourhood or two that are slightly further out.

One of my favourite neighbourhoods is Koukaki. It’s a trendy neighbourhood that’s become more popular with visitors in recent years, but still has a more chill, local’s vibe to it. You’ll find plenty of great bars and eateries, along with independent boutiques selling an assortment of goods.

If you’re into politics and counterculture, pay Exarchia a visit. For late night bars and clubbing, the formerly industrial Gazi is the place to be. If it’s something a bit more low-key, with interesting bars, cafes, and shops opened by young Athenian’s attracted by the area’s affordable rents, Kypseli is the neighbourhood for you. Meanwhile, fans of art galleries and up-and-coming artists should head to Neos Kosmos.

Go To A Museum

Athens is home to several museums that focus on different aspects of the city’s ancient, and more recent, past. It’s also a city where you’ll find contemporary museums that exemplifies the Athens’ exciting present. Popular museums include the The Acropolis Museum, the National Archaeological Museum, and the National Gallery (Alexandros Soutsos Museum). All of them are worth a visit, but here are a few that are often overlooked by visitors to Athens.

The Benaki Museum of Greek Culture is home to an impressive collection of artefacts from prehistoric times all the way through to Greece’s neo-Hellenic period. The exhibit on how modern-day Greece was shaped in the period from the Greek War of Independence to World War II, is particularly good.

For contemporary art, the National Museum of Contemporary Art Αthens (ΕΜΣΤ) is a must visit. It’s housed in the old FIX Brewery and features photography, paintings, installations, and more. There’s a permanent collection, as well as rotating exhibitions.

The Museum of Cycladic Art deals with the Bronze Age Cycladic Civilization, and features the world’s largest collection of Cycladic marble figurines (over 3,000 at last count). The Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology, meanwhile, is focused on ancient Greek technology and other cultural achievements of ancient Greece.

Head To The Waterfront

Once a separate city to Athens, the port city of Piraeus is now part of the greater Athens metropolitan area. Only a short metro or taxi ride from the heart of Athens, most don’t venture beyond ferry terminal, enroute to or from the Greek islands. Take the time to explore the area, and you’ll discover a place that has a vibe that’s distinct from the rest of the city.

Piraeus has a gritty, working class vibe, fitting of its dockside heritage. It’s home to a wonderful seafood market and seafood restaurants, and plenty of bars and cafes. There’s museums and galleries, unique port architecture, and plenty of spots offering great views of the seaside.

Listen To Greek Music

Greece has a rich musical history. From traditional folk music, to the blues-like rebetiko, and modern styles like EDM and hip-hop, there’s a wealth of music to discover. There are plenty of live music venues, bars and restaurants with live music, and festivals where you can experience Greek music. Your best best is to check out local guides to find something that you’ll like – there’s a lot going on all of the time.

If you are into vinyl records and CDs, you’ll be pleased to know that Athens is home to a great mix of record stores. From old spots that have stood the test of time, to newer record stores that spotlight certain genres, and newer artists, you’re sure to find something that you’ll enjoy listening to.

At last count, there were around 35 independent record stores in Athens. Check out my list of Best Records Stores In Athens for a curated selection of the best.

Seek Out Street Art

Athens is one of the street art capitals of the world. Walk through the centre of town, and the many local neighbourhoods that extend beyond the city, and you’ll find a wealth of colourful creations.

Street art in Athens is varied in scope, and has strong ties to the local community and the people of the city. There are large murals painted by local and international artists, commissioned by the government, creative agencies and organisations. There’s also smaller scale murals, painted guerrilla-style across the city, and lots of tagging.

Check out my Athens Street Art Guide for pictures, and a detailed neighbourhood guide to help you find the city’s best street art.

Sip On Greek Wine

Greece is one of the oldest wine producing regions in the world, with evidence suggesting wine production as far back as 6,500 years ago. The country is home to over 200 grape varieties, with varied growing regions across the country. From the affordable and drinkable retsina and house wines you find at traditional restaurants, through to seriously world-class local drops, you won’t go thirsty in Athens.

A few of my favourite places to enjoy excellent Greek wine in Athens are Fellos, which offers a rotating selection of 40 local wines (10 available by the glass), Heteroclito, which offers over 200 Greek wines (around 20 available by the glass), and Pharaoh. The latter is a wine bar and restaurant with around 400 bottles of excellent wine from around the world, with a particular focus on independent and interesting Greek producers.

Special mention must go to Line. It’s regarded by many as one of the best bars in the world, and is famous for its complex, wine-adjacent concoctions called “why-ins”. These are made using seasonal fruits grown by small Greek producers, and fermented on site.

Visit A Fresh Produce Market

Greece is known for its fertile soil and brilliant produce. One of the best places to try this produce and its freshest and best is at a local market.

The largest and most famous of these markets is Varvakeios. Located in the heart of town, it’s the city’s main municipal market. Operating since 1898, you’ll find a kreatagorá (meat market), psaragorá (fish market) and a lachanagorá (fruit and vegetable market). There’s also loads of vendors selling local products like nuts, olive oil, dried figs, dairy, and more. You’ll also find multiple tavernas and food and drink spots dotted around.

Also, don’t be afraid to purchase fresh fruit and veg from any of the street vendors that you see dotted around the city. Let your eyes guide you – the produce tends to be high quality, farm-fresh, and affordable. On such place is the farmer’s market that takes place every Friday on the streets of the neighbourhood of Kolonaki.

For a premium, modern-style experience check out the ground floor of ERGON House. It’s home to a greengrocer, butcher, fishmonger, roastery, deli, and a home and kitchenware section. It’s filled with some of the best quality produce and artisan foodstuff in Greece. The rest of the food offerings, and even the hotel above, are also brilliant.