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The Ultimo Sydney, Haymarket

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Sydney | The Ultimo Sydney is a four-star hotel inside a heritage listed building that dates back to 1911. The hotel blends a contemporary design with heritage-listed elements to good effect. The result is a hotel that feels fresh, while retaining an element of historic charm.

Make the most of this fantastic location, set right in the heart of Chinatown and where affordable stays meet comfortable style. This is where the action lives, in close proximity to the ICC and Darling Harbour.

Location

The hotel is located in Haymarket, the heart of Sydney’s Chinatown, offering guests easy access to the wealth of amazing food and drink options in the area. It’s a five minute walk to Central Station, and a four minute walk to Darling Harbour and the International Convention Centre. This location means that everything you need is easily accessible, be it in the CBD or further out.

Rooms

The Ultimo offers seven room configurations, all featuring a combination of exposed brick walls, sleek white tiles, and contemporary furnishings. The smallest room type ‘Ultimo Single’, features a king bed in a compact space. The large ‘Ultimo Studio’ rooms, meanwhile, features a king bed plus an additional sofa bed, with enough space to comfortably sleep four guests. Other configurations include things like rooms with access to a rooftop courtyard.

Each room features a wall-mounted flat screen TV, air conditioning, private ensuite, hair dryer, and tea and coffee making facilities. Bathrooms are small, with toiletries included.

There’s free Wi-Fi in all rooms (and throughout the hotel), and multiple Australian standard power outlets.

Amenities

The hotel features a 24-hour front desk, pet-friendly courtyard rooms, convenient barista coffee station, guest laundry facilities, and tour desk services.

Secure undercover parking is available at the Wilson Parking station located at 169-179 Thomas Street for $38 per 24 hours with unlimited entry and exit. Parking tickets must be validated and paid for at hotel reception before exiting.

Eat & Drink

There’s no food and drink offering at The Ultimo beyond the option of a continental boxed breakfast and barista coffee for $15.00. When you’re located in this part of town, however, this is not a problem.

Some of my favourite food and drink spots located within a 10 minute walk of the hotel include Thai restaurants Chat Thai and Porkfat, Cantonese restaurant Steam King, modern Australian restaurant Longshore, Malaysian restaurant Ho Jiak, ramen spot Gumshara, and Japanese cafe and coffee specialists Edition Coffee Roasters.

For a nearby drink, check out Batch Brewing Company’s Darling Harbour bar, cocktail bar Banchō, and Italian wine bar, Bar Morris. All less than a 10 minute walk from the hotel.


The Ultimo Sydney

4/37 Ultimo Road
Sydney
New South Wales 2000
Australia

Telephone: (02) 9281 5555
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Cruising On Virgin Voyages’ Resilient Lady

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TRAVEL | Virgin Voyages have shaken up the word of cruising since launching in the UK in 2021 and today, has three ships that cruise around Europe, the Caribbean, and Australia/New Zealand. The newest of these ships is the Resilient Lady, which entered service in 2023. I was invited aboard a five day return cruise from Melbourne to Hobart to experience a Virgin Voyages cruise for myself

Unfortunately, due to the current geopolitical situation in the Middle East, the 2024/25 Australia/New Zealand cruises have had to be cancelled. Virgin Voyages are looking at ways to return to the region as soon as possible. Hopefully it won’t be too long. Despite my cruise being in this region, my write up is still relevant for other regions where the Resilient Lady cruises.

Up until this cruise, I’d never been on a cruise before, and was excited to see what the experience was like. I’m generally a fan of the way that Virgin shakes up the industries in which it enters, and had heard good things about Virgin Voyages from several people.

In the words of Richard Branson, Virgin Voyages is “Exclusively adult, boutique glamour, relaxed luxe, ordinary to extraordinary with no kids on board!” It’s a cruise offering for “people who don’t like cruises”. Resilient Lady attracts an average guest age of 47, and there was a good spread of ages on board my cruise, with a variety of activities and spaces to suit everyone.

Spaces on the 2,700 passenger ship have been created by top designers from the boutique hotel industry, with no previous cruise-ship experience. Many of the traditional cruise rules have been done away with on Resilient Lady, drawing inspiration from super yachts rather than traditional cruise liners. Rather than a single large dining room, for example there are several restaurants and bars dotted throughout the boat, each offering something different.

The food and beverage offering has been developed in collaboration with Michelin starred chefs and top bartenders, and includes venues like steakhouse ‘The Wake’, Korean BBQ restaurant ‘Gunbae’, and Italian diner ‘Extra Virgin’. There’s also casual no-bookings-required spots like ‘The Pizza Place’, food court ‘The Galley’, and ‘Noodle Around’. The food is genuinely good, whether it’s the pre-made grab-and-go options or the full restaurant experiences.

If it’s a drink you’re after, there’s no shortage of diverse options. ‘The Social Club’ is an ode to carnival classics and also where you’ll find board games, trivia nights, and an arcade with machines like Marvel v Capcom and Daytona. ‘On the Rocks’ is the place to go for the best cocktails on board, as well as live musical and other performances, while ‘Sip’, is the place to go if you’re looking for a comfy, relaxed space to enjoy a drink. I was impressed by the range of spirits on offer, as well as the Aussie and US craft beers on board.

The ship’s crew hail from about 80 countries, are all friendly, vibrant, professional people. Like Virgin Airlines, they nail that vibe that one expects with a Virgin offering and I’m all for it. Activities are run by a mostly American cast of professionals, each of who have a speciality. Cameron is the games guy, Patrick ‘The Hype’ is the dance guy, Hannah is the best singer on the boat… you get the idea. They’re a fun bunch of people, great at what they do and always up for a chat.

It’s things like yoga, aerobics, painting, tea and coffee classes, and Activities that I particularly loved were the general knowledge and themed trivia, karaoke nights, dance classes at the back of the boat looking over the ocean, and outdoor games on the basketball court. The gym, filled with loads of brand new Technogym equipment, is great and open 24/7. There’s an assortment of retail offerings, and things like record store, tattoo parlour, and hairdresser.

If it’s entertainment you’re after, there’s a casino, nightclub ‘The Manor’, and live performance space/theatre ‘The Red Room’. Shows and performances are held throughout the day, and they’re a lot of fun. Two nights you’ll want to get involved in are the PJ Party, where guests (or ‘sailors’ as Virgin calls them) don their pyjamas for a night of activities across the ship, and Scarlett Night, an evening where the entire ship is transformed with pop-up circus performances, interactive games, karaoke, myth-telling, and live music, culminating in a very fun red pool and dance party.

A variety of rooms are available on Resilient Lady. All rooms come with 24/7 room service and eco-friendly products. I stayed in a ‘Sea Terrace’ cabin, with a a queen bed that can be transformed into L-shaped twin beds and a balcony with a relaxing hammock. Below this are the ‘Sea View’ and ‘Insider Cabins’, which forgo the balcony for a porthole window, or no window at all, but feature much the same in the way of amenities.

If you want to splash out, there’s the ‘Rockstar Quarters’ and ‘Mega Rockstar Quarters’. These much larger rooms get you terrace lounges, marble bathrooms, and in the case of the latter, an extra private outdoor shower and bottomless bar. The suites also grant you access to private space ‘Richard’s Rooftop’, and a host of other amenities and inclusions.

WiFi is included (it’s patchy but it does the trick), as is all food and drink apart from alcohol and a few select items. Most of the daily activities are also included, so there’s not really any surprise costs to worry about. You can pay in advance of the cruise for bar credit to use while you’re on the ship, and if you do you’ll get bonus credit depending on how much credit you top up.

So, was my experience aboard Resilient Lady enough to make me, a cruising virgin, a convert? I’d need to do more cruises in general to answer that question, but I can definitely say that I enjoyed my experience and am a fan of Virgin Voyages. Talking to more seasoned cruisers on the ship, I was told that this was, in someway, the worst way to be introduced to cruising because ‘this is as good as cruising gets’. High praise, indeed. For the right price, I’d definitely be keen to do another Virgin Voyages cruise in the future.

Wazzup Falafel, Northcote

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MELBOURNE | I first tried owner/cook Ahmad Al Alaea’s falafel during 2021’s big lockdown, when he was operating out of a small food truck in Preston. Wazzup Falafel immediately moved into my list of top 10 falafel in Melbourne, a place where it’s remained since.

Last month, Ahmad opened a bricks a mortar location for Wazzup Falafel with his friend Bara Sifi. The new space, on High Street in Northcote, allows Ahmad to serve up the same popular dishes that his customers love, plus more, in a sit down space with proper plates and cutlery, and a more homely atmosphere.

There’s bar seating overlooking High Street, a few small and large tables, and Middle-Eastern artworks on the wall. The semi-open kitchen is in full view of the space, with everything cooked from scratch, on site each day. It’s where you’ll find Ahmad cooking up his famed falafel to order, often popping out to give customers a try of one that’s fresh out of the fryer while they wait for their order.

Ahmad hails from Jordan, with Jordanian and Palestinian heritage, and his falafel reflect the style that’s popular in that part of the world. His falafel have an unmistakable lightness and crunch to them, made using chickpeas, parsley, bicarb soda, and a secret spice mix. They’re perfect on their own, with a bit of tahini and chilli sauce, or as part of a wrap or falafel plate.

The falafel box gets you eight falafel, hummus, tahini, pickles, turnips, and sauces. I highly recommend getting both the green and red chilli. If you’re on the move, the special wrap is a great option. It’s a large pita wrap, packed tightly with falafel, hummus, tomatoes, pickles, baby rocket, cucumber, fresh mint, fried eggplant, cauliflower, chips, and spicy sauce. Other items include things like a falafel snack pack, falafel pita pocket, and fatteh.

To drink, there’s black tea with sage, along with juices and sodas in the fridge.


Wazzup Falafel

343 High Street
Northcote
Victoria 3070
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9386 0494
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Sat – Sun, Wed – Thu: 11:00am to 9:00pm
Fri: 4:00pm to 9:00pm

48 Hours In Albuquerque: Things To Do

ALBUQUERQUE | Founded in 1706 as La Villa de Alburquerque by Santa Fe de Nuevo México governor Francisco Cuervo y Valdés, Albuquerque is the largest city in New Mexico, and one that’s full of history. It’s a history that goes back well before European settlement, with Puebloans settling in the area from around 1250, and the historic Navajo, Apache, and Comanche peoples also passing through the area.

The first time I was made aware of Albuquerque was when I would watch Looney Tunes cartoons as a child. There was the ‘wrong turn at Albuquerque’ gag that Bugs Bunny would make, and it stuck. As an adult, it was Breaking Bad, and later Better Call Saul, that brought the city to my attention.

When it came time to do my third US road trip in 2023, I decided I’d plan a route that took me to places that I’d heard about, but knew very little, if anything, about. Albuquerque was on of the cities that made the cut, and in September that year, I found myself staying in motel on Route 66, ready to explore.

I knew that the architecture was unique, I knew that I wanted to learn more about New Mexican cuisine, and I wanted to learn more about the culture and the history of the city. I fit a lot into my three days in Albuquerque, and have put together a list of things that you can choose to do if you have 48 hours in Albuquerque.


Be Captivated By The Vintage Motel Signs Of Route 66

The historic and famous Route 66 runs directly through Albuquerque. The street is lined with several motels, recognisable for their large vintage neon signs. The signs are a unique part of the city, and route’s history.

Several are in great shape, but many have fallen into disrepair. In 2023, through the Revamp Route 66: Sign Improvement Grant Program, the city provided financial grants to businesses to help them restore their signs to their former glory.

Break Bad

As you’d expect, there are plenty of touristy activities related to Breaking Bad. If that’s your thing, go for it, but it’s not for me. As a fan of Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul, I was quite content to simply walk around town and chance upon things that evoked imagery and a feel from the show.

There’s the vast emptiness of the desert as you leave town, the big billboards where lawyers are advertising their services alongside car washes and unassuming strip malls. You don’t need to spend a cent to get your Breaking Bad fix in Albuquerque.

Check Out The Petroglyphs

Located just outside the city, the La Cieneguilla Petroglyphs are a must see when visiting Santa Fe. Hundreds of petroglyphs (native rock art), created by Keresan-speaking Puebloan people living in the area between the 13th and 17th centuries, can be found here. You’ll find representations of things like birds, deer, hunters, and early Native flute players.

Eat New Mexican Food

New Mexican cuisine originated in Santa Fe de Nuevo México, a province of the Spanish empire, later a part of Mexico, and today part of the US states of Colorado, Kansas, New Mexico, Oklahoma, and Texas. New Mexican food has much in common with Mexican food, but is a distinct cuisine it its own right.

It’s a cuisine that’s been influenced by the culinary history of the region’s native Pueblo inhabitants (in particular the the Apache and Navajo tribes), and New Mexican spices, herbs, flavours, and vegetables. In particular, red and green New Mexico chile peppers, anise, and piñon (pine nuts).

In Santa Fe, you can find small family-run spots like Duran Central Pharmacy, Mary & Tito’s, and El Modelo Mexican Foods, serving up traditional New Mexican food. There’s also new restaurants, like Campo at Los Poblanos, that are putting a contemporary spin on things.

For a more detailed look at the food of New Mexico, and places to find it not just in Albuquerque, but in the wider region, check out my article, Discovering New Mexican Food: Places To Try.

Explore The Great Outdoors

Albuquerque’s climate is characterised by cool, dry winters, hot summers, and little rain. This makes it a great option for outdoor activities no matter the time of year. Riding the rapids of the Rio Grande and going for a hike in the Sandia Mountains, just east of the city, are both great options.

It’s a high altitude place, so even more so than usual be sure to remember your hat and sunscreen.

Have A Multisensory Experience

Underground Art Collective Meow Wolf might be well known for their large scale experiences in cities like Las Vegas and Denver, but it all started in Santa Fe in 2008. House of Eternal Return is their all-ages multisensory experience, where visitors explore a curious family home. It’s a dream-like place, a self described “expression of punk subversion and magical humanness”. It’s about a 50 minute drive from Albuquerque, just outside Santa Fe.

Learn About The Area’s Flora & Fauna

ABQ BioPark is home to the city’s zoo, botanic garden, and aquarium. It’s an American Humane Certified refuge for thousands of animals and plants, and gives visitors an insight into New Mexico’s native flora and fauna. You can purchase tickets for just the Aquarium/Botanic Garden, or the zoo, or a combined pass which gets you access to all three.

Sample Local Craft Beer

Albuquerque is home to several excellent craft breweries. Many of them produce beers that are well suited to the weather, and incorporate local and native ingredients. Bow And Arrow Brewing Co serves what I think is the best beer in town, while Gravity Bound Brewing Company is the best option if you’re looking to chill. Head to Marble Brewery if you want one of the largest and most consistent ranges in town, and also hosts food trucks and has a small stage where local bands play live music.

Visit A Museum

There are several museums of note in Albuquerque. The Albuquerque Museum of Art & History features art of the Southwest and covers over 400 years of regional history. The National Hispanic Cultural Center is dedicated to the study, advancement and presentation of Hispanic culture, arts and humanities, while the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center is dedicated to the preservation and perpetuation of Pueblo Native American culture, history and art. 

If you’re interested in nuclear science, visit the National Museum of Nuclear Science & History, the only congressionally chartered museum in the nuclear field. Exhibits deal with nuclear history, science applications, and future developments of nuclear energy.

Walk Through Old Town

Old Town was Albuquerque’s first neighbourhood. It’s home to plenty of shops, cafes, and restaurants, but most of these are quite tourist focused. The real reason to visit Old Town is for it’s layout, architecture, and feel, which is unlike anywhere else in the US.

Old Town Albuquerque’s architectural heritage is protected, and the area looks very much like it did when it was built upon the city’s founding in 1706. Back then it was the main town linking Mexico City to the northernmost territories of New Spain. The architectural style is Pueblo-Spanish, with flat-roofed buildings and soft contours of adobe, that mirror the Southwestern landscape.

Hifumiya Udon Noodle House, Perth

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PERTH | Opened in 2018 by chef Daisuke Hiramatsu, Hifumiya Udon Noodle House continues to draw crowds who line up each day to enjoy some of the best udon in Perth.

Hidden down the rapidly transforming McLean Lane, just off Murray Street, Hifumiya is an unpretentious spot that’s assured of what they are doing. Each day, you’ll see staff in the kitchen making thick, springy udon by hand, as you wait to order. Ordering is done canteen-style. Take your pick from the menu above the counter, and watch as your noodle bowl is assembled in front of you.

Noodles are served either hot (in a light dashi broth) or cold (in a sweet soy-based sauce). There’s around 12 options to choose from, be it a meaty bowl you want, or something vegetarian. The Hifumiya original is the most popular bowl on the menu – a delicious bowl of deep fried bean curd, slow cooked egg, seaweed, and dried bonito served hot. Spicy pork miso is another crowd favourite.

Before you pay, you’ll pass the tempura station, offering an assortment of delicious things that have been deep fried in a light batter. Grab a few things that take your fancy, along with a scoop of the free fried udon off-cuts.

To drink, it’s Japanese sodas and other Asian canned and bottled drinks. You’ll notice a wall of sake bottles at the rear of the restaurant too. They’re for the evening, when Hifumiya transforms into Jigoro izakaya.


Hifumiya Udon Noodle House

McLean Lane
Perth
Western Australia 6000
Australia

Telephone: (08) 9221 9462
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Fri: 11:00am to 3:00pm
Sat: 11:00am to 4:00pm
Sun: 11:00am to 5:00pm

Grinners Dive Bar, Hobart CBD

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HOBART | Grinners Dive Bar is a 90s alt rock skater diveish-themed bar in Hobart with a focus on good drinks, tasty tacos, and great music. It’s a small venue, with a few seats and tables on the street out the front, and several booths leading to the bar at the rear.

There’s a diverse array of music playing over the speakers, from 90s rock to 70s soul, and it fits in with the casual, fun nature of the venue. The lighting is low, and the fun goes on until late each night.

Behind the bar you’ll find cans of beer staples like Cascade, as well as local crafty options in cans and on the taps. There’s a quality spirits list for cocktails, with a focus on agave spirits, and a wine list that champions small-scale Tasmanian and other Australian producers. It’s all pretty keenly priced too, which is a boon in the current economic climate.

For food, it’s a selection of tacos with filings like chicken tinga, adobo pork, and bean mole. There’s also a couple of burritos and nachos, and snacks like cheese fries, charred corn on the cob, and jalapeno poppers.


Grinners Dive Bar

132-134 Elizabeth Street
Hobart
Tasmania 7000
Australia

Telephone: 0439 190 031
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Sun – Mon: 4:00pm to 12:00am
Tue – Thu: 12:00pm to 12:00am
Fri – Sat: 12:00pm to 4:00am

The Still – LARK Whisky Bar, Hobart CBD

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HOBART | Inside the old Mercury Print Room, which was most recently home to Franklin restaurant, you’ll find The Still – LARK Whisky Bar. Its a more ambitious venue than the Lark tasting room, with the world’s largest selection of Tasmanian whiskies behind the bar.

It’s a dark, moody space, featuring an original Lark copper still, as well as handmade Tasmanian timber furniture by local designer Scott Van Tuil.

Choose from 150 Tasmanian whiskies, not just those from Lark either, along with quality spirits of other varieties from Tasmania, including the full range of 40 Spotted Gin. There’s also Tasmanian wine and beer, a great cocktail list that champions local flavours, and a small snack menu.


The Still – LARK Whisky Bar

30 Argyle Street
Hobart
Tasmania 7000
Australia

Telephone: (03) 6288 8101
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Sun – Wed: 12:00pm to 9:00pm
Thu: 12:00pm to 10:00pm
Fri – Sat: 12:00pm to 11:30pm

Mary Mary, Hobart CBD

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HOBART | Mary Mary is a cocktail bar hidden at the rear of the Tasman Hotel, inside (and named for) the heritage-listed former St Mary’s hospital. Walk through the historic sandstone exterior and you’re greeted with a intimate space. Low lit with a low ceiling, exposed sandstone walls, brass, dark timber panelling and furniture, and leather couches.

The drinks list showcases the best of Tasmania, with a focus on local spirits and ingredients. There’s also interesting and rare drops from further abroad. Mary Mary’s cocktails revolve around the classics, reimagined with a Tasmanian twist, incorporating local fruits, seeds, vegetables and native herbs.

Led by Bar Manager Gabriel Da Rocha and Head Sommelier Michael Fisher, cocktails include things like the Apiarist’s Manhattan – a blend of beeswax, house rum blend, and port; and the Corpse Reviver N°2B, which combines Three cuts gin, lillet, dry curaçao, lemon.

To eat, Mary Mary’s food menu features a selection of Italian small plates like meatballs, salumi, pizza fritta, and crostini.


Mary Mary

2A Salamanca Place
Hobart
Tasmania 7000
Australia

Telephone: (03) 6240 6057
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Sun – Wed: 5:00pm to 10:30pm
Thu – Sat: 4:00pm to 12:00am

Sleepy’s Cafe And Wine Bar, Carlton North

MELBOURNE | Sleepy’s Cafe and Wine Bar is one of those venues that Melbourne does so well. It’s the kind of place that slips under the radar, but is beloved by locals and those who know what’s up, it’s the kind of place that you take people from out of town to when you want to give them an example of what makes eating and drinking in Melbourne so great.

Sleepy’s is a cafe by day, wine bar by night in Carlton North, headed up by Sydneysider turned Melburnian Steve Chan. It’s a place where Steve, who only started cooking professionally in 2022, throws out the rule book, creating food that is part ‘very now’ and part informed by his Shanghainese and Cantonese heritage. The result is Modern Australian-Chinese food that’s exciting and delicious.

During the day, you might find a toastie filled with mi goreng noodles and cheese, or breakfast congee with assorted toppings and chilli oil. Perhaps breakfast dumplings, filled with bacon, egg, and chives, topped with chilli oil, is more your thing. To drink, there’s a full selection of espresso and filter based coffee, along with juice, tea, and a few other things.

At night Sleepy’s transitions into wine bar mode, and the offering is switched up. There’s reasonably priced wines, about half of which are available by the glass, on a list that leans local and funky. Cocktails riff on the classics, and beers are crafty and local.

The dinner menu a snack-heavy affair that defies categorisation. The ubiquitous anchovy on toast is made with egg and chive, with toast being swapped out for you tiao (Chinese donuts). It’s one of the best things that I’ve eaten this year. Mushroom and cabbage dumplings are intense in flavour, dressed with chilli oil and spring onion. Umami laden Hokkien noodles, laced with doubanjiang, parmesan, and butter, are heavenly.

Sleepy’s would be a place worth visiting if it wasn’t doing anything particularly different, thanks to Steve’s genuine kindness and hospitality, and love for the local community. Add his next level food to the mix, and you’ve got a spot that should be high on your list.


Sleepy’s Cafe and Wine Bar

787 Nicholson Street
Carlton North
Victoria 3054
Australia

Telephone: 0422 452 288
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Tue: 7:30am to 3:00pm
Wed – Fri: 7:30am to 3:00pm, 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Sat: 8:00am to 3:00pm, 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Sun: 8:00am to 3:00pm

Sunbear Coffee, Hobart CBD

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HOBART | Sunbear Coffee is a cosy dual-family run cafe in Hobart’s CBD that’s become become a beloved spot for locals since opening in 2019. The aim of owners Brooke, Ben, Dee, and Merlin is a simple one – to create a space that welcomes and embraces the local community, that allows travellers to taste a slice of Tasmania and to host their guests in a cosy, calm and safe environment.

This warmth is apparent when you walk into the venue. It’s a very welcoming space, with a personal feel. The menu is a simple one. To drink it’s coffee and tea, homemade chai, turmeric lattes and sodas etc. For food, it’s a rotating selection of around 10 simple, small plates, plus quiche, sandwiches, and pastries.

Seasonality and supporting local, independent producers is a big part of the ethos at Sunbear, and as much as possible is made on site from scratch. Expect things like fried eggs on toast; broccoli with ricotta, chopped saurkraut, herbs, garlic, and bread crumbs; and cheesy English beans with garlic toast.


Sunbear Coffee

145 Collins Street
Hobart
Tasmania 7000
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Fri: 7:30am to 3:00pm
Sat: 8:00am to 2:00pm