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Balgownie Estate Yarra Valley, Yarra Glen

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MELBOURNE | Balgownie Estate Yarra Valley is winery, hotel, and restaurant that I’ve been to a few times in the past. A kitchen fire destroyed the restaurant in 2020, which was rebuilt and renovated. Along with the new dining and tasting room, Balgownie used the opportunity to refresh their accommodation, which launched in Spring this year. I was recently invited to check out the new incarnation, designed by ZWEI Interiors and Architecture.

Location

Located off Melba Highway in Yarra Glen, about a five minute drive from the centre of town, Balgownie Estate is well located for those looking for a base from which to explore the Yarra Valley. Healesville is an 18 minute drive away, and there are no shortage of wineries, artisan producers of things like chocolate and cheese in the area.

Rooms

Balgownie Estate Yarra Valley has 70 accommodation rooms and suites. The Garden Terrace and Standard Queen room are a great option for those looking for a base from which to explore the area, which the larger suites, with view of the Yarra Valley, are perfect for those looking for something more luxurious. I stayed in one of the Premier Corner Suites.

Rooms are clean and modern with white and neutral tones, natural materials, and floor to ceiling windows. The open-plan main room features a small dining table, couches and coffee table, and a furnished balcony. It’s a much brighter, modern affair than before.

Each suite includes a small kitchenette with kitchenware, Nespresso pod coffee machine, and a kettle. There’s a 55-inch smart TV in the main room, and a 43-inch smart TV in the bedroom. You can stream from your own devices to both.

Suites feature a king-size bed, with both the bed and the pillows being firm but comfortable. There’s an in-room safe, iron, and ironing board. The bathroom impresses, with a large ‘wet zone, featuring a rain shower and bathtub. There’s the usual selection of bathroom accessories, and toiletries by Mr. Smith.

There’s free Wi-Fi in all rooms (and throughout the hotel), and multiple Australian standard power outlets.

Amenities

Amenities include and indoor heated pool, steam room and gym. They’re available for all guests, along with the offer of 10% off wine purchases from the cellar door during your stay.

There’s free parking for guests, located directly next to the rooms.

Eat & Drink

The kitchen at the newly renovated Restaurant 1309 is headed up by Irish chef Aidan Gallagher. The basic layout is the same as before but, like the rooms, it’s a much more modern look which feels fresh. The menu champions seasonal Victorian produce, with a wine list that showcases Balgownie’s extensive range of wines.

Local burrata and heirloom tomato salad is topped with Yarra Valley Dairy goats cheese foam, salute olive oil, dehydrated black olive, and basil gel. It pairs well with Balgownie’s 2022 Black Label Pinot Gris. For something larger, go for the 250g ‘Southern Ranges’ MB4 porterhouse. It’s served with crushed sweet potato, wilted greens, charred shallots, pickled garlic shoot and herb butter. Grab a side of the excellent duck fat potatoes, which have carried over from the old menu, and pair it with the 2015 Balgownie’s Old Vine Shiraz.

The in-room dining menu features options like grazing plates, pizzas, and sweet treats. For breakfast, it’s a continental style buffet with hot and cold things like bacon and eggs, cereal and fruit.


Balgownie Estate Yarra Valley

1309 Melba Highway
Yarra Glen
Victoria 3775
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9730 0700
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Muli, Carlton

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MELBOURNE | Footscray’s DK Live Seafood is one of my favourite places in Melbourne to buy fresh seafood. The quality and variety of seafood is amongst the best in town, with owner Van Tran, her husband David, and son David, supplying some of Melbourne’s best restaurants. When I heard that the Tran family was opening their own restaurant, Muli, I wasn’t sure what to expect, other than that the seafood would be exceptional.

The restaurant is tiny, with space for 12 diners inside, plus a few small tables for two out the front. There’s fresh seafood tanks, with a raw bar and a few stools on one side, and a handful of tables on the other. Blink, and you might miss the place as you walk by.

While Van’s brother-in-law and niece take care of the day-to-day at DK Live, Van, David, and David are busy running a restaurant that’s not quite like any other in town. Van, who likes to do things her way, told me that she’s had the idea of opening a restaurant for over 20 years. None of the family have prior hospitality experience, and they’re learning as they go.

Don’t let the leafy Carlton locale and fancy building fool you, Muli is an old school family restaurant at heart. Van loves to chat to diners, and is an honest, open book. You might wait a while for dishes to arrive at the table (as David Jr let us know when we were seated outside as walk-ins), but you’ll leave feeling like you’ve just enjoyed a meal at a friend’s house.

Personal touches can be found throughout Muli. Doily table cloths because that’s what Van likes to use at home; little trinkets and mantras on the shelves that keep Van calm, when the realisation hits that she’s in the middle of busy service, wondering what she’s gotten herself into; and a whole lot of flowers from her garden that grew like crazy after she picked up a few during COVID.

As for that seafood, it’s used in a variety of dishes that are mostly simple, with a broad Asian influence. A plate of six oysters, sourced from across the country, each with a unique texture and flavour profile, give you a greater appreciation of the starter. Yabby rice paper rolls are generously stuffed, and served with a sweet chilli dipping sauce. Steamed Adelaide pipis served in garlic butter, with bread, are a must try.

Raw and fresh crab, lobster, and marron come straight from the tanks, with multiple species served in a variety of ways. For dessert, the unique sea urchin ice-cream is worth a try. The focus on freshness and quality means that availability depends on supplier availability.

To drink, there’s a focus on wines, with a few beer and other options. Muli’s short wine list sticks to traditional varietals, with an emphasis on sparkling wines.

You can also book in for Muli’s Shuckmaster Experience, where you’re taught to open 12 different types of oysters, uni and more, learning about the different varieties along the way. At the end of the class, you enjoy the fruits of your labour, along with sparkling wine.


Muli

184A Rathdowne Street
Carlton
Victoria 3053
Australia

Telephone: 0434 258 898‬
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Wed: 6:00pm to 9:00pm
Thu – Sun: 12:00pm to 3:00pm, 6:00pm to 9:30pm

Untitled Richmond, Richmond

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MELBOURNE | Technically in Cremorne, Untitled Richmond is a local’s restaurant, aimed at giving visitors a selection of refined, European bistro-inspired dishes to enjoy as snacks over a glass or two of wine, or a feast to share with friends.

The name originates from the practice of artists to refer to some of the pieces as ‘untitled’, giving the user the opportunity to attribute their own meaning to the piece. Owners Andrew Ryan and David Abela are both avid art collectors, and you’ll find items from their personal collections hanging on the walls of the warm, two storey, Flack Studio designed space.

Chef Timothy Martin’s (ex-The European) menu features dishes that appeal to a wide audience. For snacks, it’s things like cacio e pepe croquettes topped with truffle pecorino; gnocco fritto with LP’s salumi and Guindilla peppers; and charred Western Australian octopus risotto with vongole and confit tomato.

Larger dishes, which can easily be enjoyed solo or to share, are options like spicy pork ragu with cresti de gallo and walnut pangrattato; chilli crab linguine with confit garlic and salmon roe; and pork cotoletta with celeraic remoulade, and caper and sage butter.

It’s comforting, tasty stuff that showcases the quality ingredients used. Dishes are keenly priced and generously portioned, another sign of intent that Untitled is a restaurant that’s about giving locals a venue that they can return to multiple times.

The wine list focuses on local producers, with a few international drops dotted throughout. Ryan has a stake in Michelton Wines, and you’ll find several of their bottles on the menu at reasonable prices. The beer and spirits selection also leans local.


Untitled Richmond

236 Swan Street
Richmond
Victoria 3121
Australia

Telephone: (03) 7033 1674
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Tue: 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Wed – Sat: 12:00pm to 10:00pm

No. 100 Flinders Lane, Melbourne CBD

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MELBOURNE | Easily missed despite the descriptive name as you walk by, is CBD spot No. 100 Flinders Lane. I recently did some client work for them in my capacity as a photographer, and also visited with a group of friends to experience the venue as a diner.

When Code Black Coffee founder, Joseph Haddad, opened No. 100 in April this year, it was a café by day and wine bar by night. Popular with nearby office workers and the after-work crowd, the venue had all the hallmarks of a new Melbourne wine bar in 2023. Great coffee; an interesting wine and spirits list focusing on local, independent producers; sandwiches and salumi by day; and a snacky modern Australian/European menu by night.

Despite positive reviews and steady stream of customers, something about No. 100 wasn’t quite vibing with Joseph. Joseph wanted not just a venue that ticked the boxes, but a space that he could feel connected with. He made the decision to change things up, and relaunched No. 100 this month, as a Lebanese cafe and wine bar, with long-time Code Black employee Riccardo De Rosa running front of house, and chef Ben Ransom leading the kitchen.

No. 100 is now a space where Joseph’s love of hospitality combines with his Lebanese heritage. His passion and excitement around the new concept is evident when you speak to him about it. Chef Ransom, with Joseph’s input and feedback, has developed a menu that swaps the daytime sandwiches and salumi with Lebanese wraps and pickles, and the evening menu with a still snacky, contemporary take on Lebanese food.

Basturma is served atop a bed of kataifi with pickled onion, while hummus comes topped with cashews and a burnt putter drizzle. Charred baby corn is a delightful fusion of Lebanese and Australian elements, with shanklish, Aleppo pepper, fermented garlic, finger lime, and macadamia.

Other worldly influences on Lebanese food are present on the menu. Lamb shawarma is served with sumac, onion, parsley, and tahini, atop a soft taco-like pita. It’s a nod to the taco al pastor, and the Lebanese-Mexican cuisine that developed in the 1900s in Mexico City

The drinks menu is still predominantly local and independent, but it’s now joined by interesting drops from Lebanon. Be sure to try the Mersel Lebnani Orange Skin Contact, a delicious blend of Lebanese Merwah, and Sauvignon Blanc wines. For cocktails, try the Martini 100, a carry-over from the old menu, made with eucalypt, vermouth and Never Never gin. Coffee is, of course, from Code Black, and is brilliant.


No. 100 Flinders Lane

100 Flinders Lane
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9943 5861
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Tue – Sat: 11:00am to 11:00pm

Yummy Bear Bakery, Melbourne

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MELBOURNE | There’s been an explosion of Asian-style bakeries and patisseries opening up across Melbourne this year, one of which is Yummy Bear Bakery. Located just outside of the the CBD on Elizabeth Street, Yummy Bear is the creation of pastry chef Pafun Sinpichetkorn, and her partner Daniel Negritas. The duo decided that they wanted to open their own shop last year, and a few month ago, their plan finally came to fruition. I popped in for What’s On Melbourne to grab some shots a few weeks ago.

It’s a small place, bright and colourful with lots of pastel colours and cute characters dotted around the venue. The high quality baked treats are also cute and colourful, baked fresh each day with an emphasis on Thai flavours. Ingredients are locally sourced where possible, with fresh produce coming from nearby Queen Victoria Market. Cakes are light in texture and not overly sweet.

It’s only been a few weeks since Yummy Bear officially opened, and already some crowd favourites have emerged. Things like soft layered crepe cakes with flavours like pandan, and Thai milk tea; coconut ice-cream wrapped with a thin Thai crepe and topped with Thai milk tea sauce; and buttery thick cut kanom pang (Thai toast). The latter comes topped with things like caramel sauce, chocolate sauce, fresh banana, and whipped cream; and pandan custard, coconut ice-cream, and crumble.

And yes, there’s mango sticky rice. Yummy Bear’s version replaces straight mango slices with mango ice-cream that contains chunks of fresh mango. To drink, it’s things like Thai iced tea, butterfly pea soda, and taro lattes.

It’s not just baked goods here either. If you’re in the mood for something savoury, check out Yummy Bear’s lunch specials. A rotating selection of a few Thai classics like pad thai, pad see ew, and pad kaprao.


Yummy Bear Bakery

599 Elizabeth Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Mon – Thu: 10:00am to 6:00pm
Fri – Sat: 10:00am to 8:00pm

Glory Us, Strathmore

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MELBOURNE | Located in the space formerly home to local stalwart ‘The Corner Café on Woodlands’, you’ll find the recently opened Glory Us. It’s a café by Tori Bicknell and Mike Byard, who bring a wealth of hospitality experience to the table.

Located across from Strathmore station, with an unexpectedly stunning view of Melbourne’s skyline, Tori and Mike have eschewed designer interiors, influencer invites, and “Broadsheet First Looks” to build a place that’s built for locals. Three weeks of painting, re-arranging, and freshening up the space have resulted in a cosy, bright, community-focused café.

Glory Us is the kind of place where locals pop in with the kids after weekend sports, for a coffee and a chat before heading into the CBD for work, and to catch up with friends and linger. As you walk in you’ll find Tori cooking away in the open kitchen next to a cabinet full of baked treats, while Mike takes care of front of house. There’s a rear courtyard, with plans for an upstairs wine shop and private dining room.

To the side, is the main space with a few small and larger tables and seats. Listening to the 80s heavy playlist as you browse through the menu, it soon becomes apparent that there’s more to Glory Us than meets the eye. Not surprising given Tori and Mike’s experience. The deceptively simple menu showcases top quality local produce, featuring twists that eschew trends and showcase Tori’s aptitude for flavour and technique.

The breakfast plate is a highlight. It contains prosciutto, asparagus, chevrano (a Dutch hard goats cheese), soft boiled egg, onion jam, caraway burnt butter, and pan toasted sourdough. Also must try is the salt beef brisket sandwich. Slow cooked beef is crisped in the pan, joined by pickles, melted cheddar and horseradish aioli inside a inside a ciabatta roll. Oh and there’s also a chip butty.

If you have a sweet tooth, you can’t go past the French toast. It’s a caramelised brioche affair that changes with the seasons. During the winter it was topped with brûléed banana, thick caramel, and cream. At the moment it’s honey burnt spring peaches, whipped cream, cinnamon sugar and a cherry on top. There’s also the option of cake, cookies, and more from the pastry cabinet.

Coffee is by Kensington-based ethical and sustainable roasters Rumble. Co-founded by Tori’s brother Stan, each bean that Rumble roasts can be traced back to the source, with full transparency around the bean to cup process, down to how much each grower is paid.


Glory Us

62-64 Woodland Street
Strathmore
Victoria 3041
Australia

Telephone: (03) 8528 4774
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Fri: 6:30am to 3:00pm
Sat: 7:30am to 3:00pm

Rumi, Brunswick East

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MELBOURNE | Iconic Brunswick East restaurant Rumi has a new home, which launched last week, along with owner Joseph Abboud’s new cookbook, at East Brunswick Village. It’s the third incarnation of the 17 year old restaurant, and the first time that Joe’s been able to design a space from scratch.

You’ll immediately notice the extra space, brightness, and large kitchen, which is open to the main dining room. To the side, there’s a private dining room, function space, and backing onto the laneway across from the soon to open @fomocinemas, Rumi’s new bar, Rocket Society.

Peruse through the menu at the new Rumi, and you’ll notice that not much has changed, which is a good thing. As much as we all love to try new things, most people that dine at Rumi, myself included, have our favourite dishes that we come here for. Things like sigara boregi (haloumi, feta, and kasseri filled filo pastry cigars); Persian meatballs with tomato and saffron sauce, and labne; and the fried baby quail kebabs with saffron marinade, verjus, and grape molasses that Anthony Bourdain listed as one of his favourite Melbourne dishes when he visited Rumi mk1 in 2009.

New dishes include things like half BBQ chicken with rose harissa and Warragal greens; and a slow cooked brisket take on basturma, served with a bean salad. The wine list is also expanded, with around 80 ‘boomer-friendly’ local and Lebanese wines curated by sommelier Stelios Kimonides.

If you’re looking for something new, be sure to put Rocket Society on your radar. The bar opens this Friday and will see Rumi’s kitchen and bar team doing all sorts of new, fun, and interesting snacky things. Lebanese pet nat with HSP croquettes anyone?

Congratulations Joe and Nat on the beautiful space that’s Rumi mk3. I look forward to many a meal enjoyed here in the future.


Rumi

2 Village Avenue
Brunswick East
Victoria 3057
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9388 8255
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 5:30pm to 9:30pm

Black Kite Commune, Melbourne CBD

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MELBOURNE | Many a tear was shed when CBD favourite Bar Napoli closed earlier this year. Its replacement, Black Kite Commune, from the Gin Palace and Bar Ampere crew, has thankfully done the space proud, as it builds a reputation of its own.

Inspired by Melbourne’s early 20th century supper clubs, Black Kite Commune is a dark, low-lit, moody venue where you can enjoy delicious drinks and tasty snacks into the early hours of the morning. Look up, and you’ll see a back-lit ceiling with photos of a forest at night.

The drinks menu features interesting beer, wine, and around 300 spirits, with a big focus on local, independent drops. Head bartender Jess Clayfield conceived Black Kite Commune’s cocktail menu after watching the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra play Beethoven’s fifth.

Try the Raspberry, a blend of Pisco, rose-tea-infused verjuice, gooseberry syrup, lime, and rhubarb-flavoured Three Foxes aperitif. The creative cocktail has the unmistakable taste of raspberry, despite not containing any.

For food, it’s snacky bites and a few larger dishes that showcase local produce and native ingredients. Things like wild boar croquettes, king prawns with garlic oil and lemon myrtle, and fried crocodile with saltbush.


Black Kite Commune

30 Russell Place
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 4:00pm to 1:00am

A Guide To Historic Honolulu Chinatown

HONOLULU | Chinatown, Honolulu is such a vibe. There’s so much great food and drink to be found, from simple and affordable classic through to contemporary, trendy but still chill spots. Add to that the amazing produce markets, interesting architecture, narrow streets, and independent boutiques, and you’ve got what’s hands down one of my favourite neighbourhoods in Honolulu.

One of the oldest in the United States, Honolulu’s Chinatown feels a world away from the tourist focused Waikiki. During the 19th century laborers were imported from China to work on sugar plantations in Hawaii. Many became merchants after their contracts expired and moved to this area. The result is a neighbourhood that’s rich in history.

Chinatown is also a part of Honolulu that’s seen its fair share of ups and downs. It’s undoubtedly a gritty neighbourhood. For a time, especially in the mid 20th century, Chinatown was home to Honolulu’s red light district. Pool halls, dive bars, and prostitution were plentiful along Hotel Street. Drugs and crime continue to be an issue after dark, and shuttered windows and tenancies with for lease signs are a common feature.

Chinatown is without a doubt a real, living neighbourhood. It’s not sanitised, and it’s not touristy. Yes, the area has its issues, but it’s also an area that’s full of stories, with a welcoming sense of community. I love Chinatown’s vibe, people, and hospitality scene, and recommend a visit if you’re ever in Honolulu.

Here’s some things to see and do when you visit Honolulu’s Chinatown.

Eat & Drink

Fête

Fête is a modern American restaurant with a global outlook, with dishes that celebrate the diversity of Hawaii’s food and people. It’s about showcasing the best Hawaiian produce, with a strong farm-to-table ethos, through food that’s a homage to the food that the people of Hawaii love to eat.

The Lei Stand

Owners Ryan Kalei Tsuji and Tara Shimooka’s bar, The Lei Stand, pays tribute to the Chinatown’s markets and long-standing lei makers. It’s a fun space, featuring an outstanding cocktail list, and snacks by James Beard Award-nominated chef Ricky Goings.

Livestock Tavern

Livestock Tavern modern American bar and eatery serving a seasonal menu of tasty, classic bistro and gastropub dishes with a twist. There’s an impressive wine global wines list, and a great selection of independent spirits, small production beers, and classic cocktails.

Maguro Brothers

Famed for their sashimi, grilled fish, and poke Maguro Brothers have been serving up some of the freshest seafood in Honolulu for over 50 years. The Chinatown location, inside Maunakea Marketplace’s food hall, is open for breakfast and lunch.

The Pig And The Lady

Chef Andrew Le’s modern-American restaurant, The Pig and The Lady, marries his Vietnamese heritage and American upbringing. It’s a family affair, with deeply personal dishes you won’t find elsewhere.

Skull & Crown Trading Co.

Skull & Crown Trading Co. is tiki bar at heart, with contemporary flair, inspired by the trading companies that used to occupy this part of town. Cocktails are the focus, with a diverse assortment of delicious options.

Smith’s Union Bar

Located in Honolulu’s Chinatown, Smith’s Union Bar has been doing its thing since 1935, making it the oldest bar on Oahu. Today, things are much the same as they’ve always been in here. Cheap drinks, and a welcoming, fun, no nonsense vibe.

Shop

BāS Bookshop

BāS Bookshop is an independent bookstore by wife and husband team Aly Ishikuni-Sasaki and Travis Sasaki. The shop acts as a gallery and event space, hosting a rotating selection of books emphasizing graphic design, art, fashion, photography, & architecture. There’s a particular focus on Hawaiian authors and artists.

Kekaulike Market

Similarly to Oahu Marketplace, Kekaulike Market is a great place to visit for fresh produce and meat products.

Lai Fong Department Store

Owned by the same family for over than 80 years, Lai Fong sell an eclectic assortment of modern and antique goods. They’re particularly known for their extensive selection of Chinese silks, brocades, and custom dresses.

Maunakea Marketplace

Split across two levels, Maunakea Marketplace is a great place to visit if you’re looking for clothing, nick knacks, herbs, and fresh produce. It’s also well known for its food hall, where you’ll find vendors selling delicious food from across Asia.

Oahu Marketplace

Oahu Marketplace has been around since 1904, and is the place to go if you’re interested in Asian cooking. You can find all the ingredients you need, from fresh meat and produce, through to condiments, dried and fresh herbs, and more.

Roberta Oaks

Roberta Oaks is a fashion and lifestyle boutique selling an assortment of Hawaiian designed and made products. Visit for contemporary Aloha shirts, dresses, throws, and assorted art, home, and lifestyle products.

Do

Izumo Taishakyo Mission Cultural Hall

Built in 1923, with a history that dates back to 1906, this small wooden shrine is one of the few active Shinto shrines in the United States. It offers a relaxing escape from the bustle of Chinatown as you observe rituals taking place.

Kuan Yin Temple

This Buddhist temple is dedicated to Kuan Yin Bodhisattva, the goddess of mercy, whose statue towers in the prayer hall. It’s still an active temple, so remember to leave your shoes outside before you enter.

Hawaii Theatre

Even if you don’t intend to see a film or concert, this restored 1920 Art Deco theatre is well worth a visit to admire its stunning architecture and interior.

Keki Milk Bar, Melbourne CBD

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MELBOURNE | Kēki means ‘cake’ in Japanese, and chef Wookjin “Jin” Jang and his friends Hangyul “Han” Oh, and Jacob Jeon love cake. Three years ago they opened Keki Milk Bar as an evening pop-up inside Queen Street café, Workshop Coffee. After outgrowing the space, they decided to relocate in the space formerly home to Basement Café (now CEREE). I visited to grab some photos for What’s On Melbourne.

The trio have brightened up the basement space a bit, which retains its cosy feel with the addition of Japanese touches. Keki is all about soufflé pancakes. Light and fluffy cloud-like creations made using Jin’s whipped egg white batter. Each is topped with a mascarpone cream, designed to maintain its shape while you eat your pancake.

There’s eight choices always on the menu, plus a rotating selection of seasonal creations. Flavours include things like the signature strawberry topped with fresh strawberries; matcha with sweet red bean, and walnut crumb; and my favourite, sticky caramel with cacao nibs and popcorn. If you want to customise your pancake, you can add additional toppings.

Along with soufflé pancakes, Keki also sells a selection of house-made drinks. House made fermented fruit sodas with flavours like passionfruit, and strawberry, are a highlight. There’s also things like iced chocolate, coffee, and tea.


Keki Milk Bar

350 La Trobe Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Thu: 3:00pm to 9:30pm
Fri: 3:00pm to 10:00pm
Sat: 11:00am to 10:00pm
Sun: 11:00am to 9:30pm