MELBOURNE | For 20 years, D.D’s Charcoal Grill, in Epping was a favourite with locals looking to get their fix of home-style Macedonian food. When the owners decided to retire, Marijan (“Marz”) Nikolovski, a regular customer, decided to take over the spot. With the original owner’s blessing (and their recipes), Marz renamed the restaurant to Balkan Skara (Skara means grill in Macedonian), and added some of his own family recipes to the mix.
You enter through the rear carpark, to the unmistakable smell of grilled meat coming from the open fire, manned by Marz. There’s a good chance you’ll be seated inside the humble space, by Marz’s wife, Angelina (“Ange”). There’s Macedonian music playing on the TVs, and an assortment of Macedonian decorations dotted about that wouldn’t feel out of place at baba or dedo’s house.
The menu features all of the Balkan classics, the regional versions most closely aligned to that you’ll find in modern-day North Macedonia. One of the things that I love about visiting Balkan restaurants is seeing the mostly subtle, but sometimes significant differences in dishes from places that might only be a geographically small distance apart. It’s always interesting to compare to the versions that I grew up with, that you’ll find in the Northern Greek-Macedonian border villages around Florina.
To start, grab either a shopska or tomato salad, along with some marinated grilled red bullhorn peppers. You’ll also want some ajvar (roasted red pepper and eggplant relish), and some kajmak, a house-made, buttery clotted cream. Lepinja, bread to spread it on, and dip into all of the veg and meat sauces, is provided in ample quantity.
For larger plates, tangy, dense sarma are a signature and a must try. They’re densely packed, spiced pork mince and rice parcels wrapped with pickled cabbage. Various mixed grill places provide an opportunity to try several of the grilled meats. Things like pork and beef kebapi (make sure you save some ajvar for these), pork neck, pork skewers, lamb chops, and chicken thighs.
For dessert, you can’t go wrong with tulumbi (syrupy donuts), and a cup of Turkish coffee. To drink, its a few wines from North Macedonian winery, Tikveš; an assortment of rakija; and local plus North Macedonian sodas, mixers, and beer. There’s also the option to BYO alcohol.
My advice is to come to Balkan Skara with a few people, or bring some containers for takeaway. Servings are generous, and you’ll want to try several things.
Balkan Skara
3/772 High Street
Epping
Victoria 3076
Australia
Telephone: (03) 8405 3820
E-mail: n/a
Website
Open
Tue – Wed: 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Thu – Sat: 12:00pm to 10:00pm
Sun: 12:00pm to 5:00pm