MELBOURNE | Fine dining as a concept has been in a state of flux in recent years. But what exactly is ‘fine dining’? To some, it’s white linen with excellent, but stuffy, service. Others think of small ‘overpriced’ dishes that leave you hungry at the end of the meal. Some view fine dining as pretentious, where an owner/chef’s vision has become so clouded by ego and theatrics that they’ve forgotten what lies at the essence of a good meal.
Yiaga, the new restaurant from former Vue du Monde head chef, Hugo Allen, opened in October last year with the aim of redefining fine dining in the context of Melbourne in 2026. It’s a restaurant that’s confident as to what it is, and what Hugh and the team are trying to achieve. Yiaga is everything that fine dining should be in this city, right now.
Located in the extensively renovated former Fitzroy Gardens Pavilion, the John Wardle designed restaurant is a beauty. Yiaga means ‘seek and find’ in the local Wurundjeri language, and every aspect of the restaurant is an ode to Australia. 13,000 wavy, irregular terracotta tiles line the walls, made by local potter, Robert Gordon. Iron oxide-tinted concrete floors evoke the dirt of the outback, while Jon Goulder Tasmanian blackwood tables and chairs provide for a comfortable dining experience. Custom-made plates and cutlery are precisely designed for each course. Combined with floor to ceiling windows offering a view of Fitzroy Gardens, it’s a space that you want to linger in.
And linger you will. The set menu features 11 courses, enjoyed over approximately 3 hours. Knowledgeable, friendly wait staff are attuned to the rhythm of the open kitchen and dining room. Courses are well paced, and everything flows seamlessly. Partway through the meal, you’re taken on a tour of the restaurant, wine cellar, and kitchen. Any questions you have about the food, drink, or the restaurant, no matter how obscure, the staff are happy to answer. At the end of the meal, you’re comfortably full and satisfied.
Each dish shows the same attention to detail as every other aspect of the restaurant. The constantly evolving menu sources the best ingredients from across the country, intertwined with native ingredients. Highlights when I visited included luscious Blackmore wagyu atop steamed bread with green ants; a custardy dish of coconut, macadamia, and N25 oscietra caviar, and the famed banksia pop dessert. The latter, served on a real banksia branch, sees dark chocolate, caramelised chocolate, and cocoa butter blast frozen, and filled with black sesame caramel, roasted macadamia, and wattle seed ice-cream.
The drinks list has been curated by master sommelier Dorian Guillon, and showcases Australian producers. The drinks pairing is excellent, featuring wines, beers, and spirits. There’s also a great non-alcoholic pairing, which hits the same targets with each dish. Pairings are explained in detail, with interesting insights as to the underlying thought process.
Yiaga
Fitzroy Gardens
East Melbourne
Victoria 3002
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9691 3800
E-mail: n/a
Website
Open
Thu: 6:00pm to 11:00pm
Fri – Sat: 12:00pm to 4:00pm, 6:00pm to 11:00pm
Sun: 12:00pm to 4:00pm