MELBOURNE | Named after samurai with no lord or master, Rōnin Ōmakase has always done things its own way. When original co-owner and head chef, Patrick Kwong, opened the venue in 2024, he combined exemplary Japanese technique and flavours, with elements of his Malaysian heritage, and Australian flavours. Now new head chef, Korean-born Liam Lee, is putting his own spin on things. I was recently invited in to check it out.
Liam has worked in top restaurants in Seoul and Melbourne, cooking across a variety of cuisines. At Rōnin, Liam’s bought all of these influences to the table, creating a menu that’s as much a reflection of himself, as it is his Korean heritage. Chatting to Liam while you’re watching your dishes being prepared at the 10-seat chef’s counter, you can’t help but be drawn in by his warmth and passion. Ingredients and dishes are referenced back to childhood memories, and life experiences. The entire experience is elevated as a result – a true reflection of why omakase-style dining is so special when done right.
The best local and Korean produce and ingredients are sourced from suppliers that have been selected not just for the quality of their products, but for how they fit into the philosophy of the kitchen. One of the vegetable suppliers is a relative of Liam’s and specialises in growing Korean vegetables in Victoria. You’ll see many of them fermenting in jars behind the counter.
Korean traditions and flavours are respected, across the 10-course tasting menu, but this is not a traditional restaurant. Galbi (Korean‑style beef short rib), is slow-cooked for 17 hours, then finished over charcoal in front of you. It’s served with an assortment of house banchan. Raw kingfish is dry-aged for seven days, plated with slow-cooked abalone, 7days dry aged Kingfish, slow cooked abalone with chogochujang, Tasmanian uni, and Yarra Valley salmon caviar. Misugaru, a multigrain drink powder, is used to make panna cotta, served with chestnut mascarpone cream, and fermented persimmon.
The drinks menu features an assortment of spirits and liquors from small, independent Korean producers. Things like Han Chung premium cheongju, Morry Barley soju, and Seoul Night plum soju. The Korean soju pairing is well considered and highly recommended.
Rōnin Ōmakase
445 Little Collins Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia
Telephone: 0401 721 491
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Wed – Sat: 6:00pm to 11:00pm