Big Esso by Mabu Mabu, Melbourne CBD

MELBOURNE | Mabu Mabu is one of my favourite, and to my mind one of the most unique and interesting cafes in Melbourne. When I discovered that owner Nornie Bero was opening a spinoff restaurant, Big Esso, in Fed Square, I was excited about what it was going to bring to the Melbourne dining scene.

Big Esso is slang for ‘the biggest thank you’ in the Torres Strait Islands, where Nornie grew up. The thank you extends to the customers who have supported Nornie from her South Melbourne market stall, through to the Yarraville cafe, and now this restaurant. It also extends to the Australian continent, for its abundance of native produce and ingredients.

The offering at Big Esso is an expansion of what is happening at the Yarraville cafe. The focus is still on indigenous ingredients and cuisine, but expanded to dinner dishes and bar options. There’s more of an exploration of seafood, and the dishes that Nornie grew up with. Where possible, produce is sourced from from First Nations, queer-led, women-led, and environmentally conscious producers.

Expect dishes like kangaroo tartare with smoked oyster aioli, and taro crisps, Namas (Island style coconut cured kingfish, chilli, and coriander), and charred emu flat fillet with  molasses, and fried sugar cane. Drinks wise, it’s a similar theme, with a great assortment of local sodas, beer, and wine. Cocktail drinkers should try the Island Spiked Tea. It’s made with wild hibiscus flowers, strawberry gum leaf, lemon and cinnamon myrtles and Axel vodka.

The space is located beside the Koorie Heritage Trust, on Wurrundjeri land. It’s open, bright, and welcoming. Artwork by artists like Gumbaynggirr woman Aretha Brown, and Gunditjmara and Torres Strait Islander woman Lisa Waup adorn the restaurant’s walls and tables. Beyond the menu, there’s also a retail pantry selling take home goods like house-made hot sauces, seasonings, spice mixes and teas. I highly recommend grabbing some of the spice mixes. They’re all great, and I’m particularly fond of the Desert Herbs mix, which I often use as a dry rub when I’m doing low and slow BBQ.

Big Esso by Mabu Mabu

Federation Square
Victoria 3000

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: [email protected]

Tue – Thu: 11:00am to 10:00pm
Fri – Sat: 11:00am to 11:30pm
Sun: 11:00am to 10:30pm

Paul founded The City Lane back in 2009 as a place to share photos of his travels around Europe with friends and family. The City Lane might have changed quite a lot since those early days but one thing that’s remained constant is Paul’s passion for food, travel and culture, and a desire to photograph and write about his experiences. Paul has a strong inquisitive nature that drives him to look beneath the surface in order to discover what really makes a city and its people tick, and what better way to do this than over a good meal or drink, with a city’s locals, at places that people who live in that city actually frequent. Paul is also a co-host of The Brunswick Beer Collective, a podcast that may or may not actually be about beer.


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