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MELBOURNE | Richmond favourite Meatmother closed earlier this year, and it didn’t take long for a replacement, Caddie, to pop up in its place. Caddie is owner/chef Dylan Evans’ first restaurant and he brings a wealth of experience to the venue, having worked in the kitchen at Noma (Copenhagen), Manresa (Los Gatos), Alinea (Chicago), and Fargo & Co (Melbourne). Evans’ aim with Caddie is to provide a casual spot where people can enjoy a drink and snack at the bar, or something more substantial upstairs.
The downstairs bar will be familiar to anyone who dined at Meatmother, but the room has been brightened up and decluttered – the dark walls are now white and the bench tops have been replaced with light timber. The same goes for upstairs which is a brighter, more refined affair than in its previous guise. The food at Caddie is market driven and produce focused. The menu rotates regularly, and is based on what’s good and fresh at the markets on a given day, and what Evans feels like cooking, along with some items that are always on there.
We were invited to try dinner at Caddie, were impressed by the honesty of the menu. You can tell that the food here is a reflection of what Evans wants to cook, and the menu is refreshingly devoid of trends and nonsense. It’s really is all about showcasing just a few star ingredients in each dish. We started with one of the daily specials, a kingfish ceviche with fresh cucumbers and a soured cucumber dressing. The fresh fish and tartness of the dressing combined beautifully to create well balanced dish that hit all the high notes.
Our second dish was one that we wouldn’t normally order, but after being told that it was a favourite amongst staff and customers, we knew we had to give it a shot – an omelette with smoked barramundi and cheddar, topped with saltbush leaves. The sides of the omelette were nicely crisped while the interior was delicate and creamy. Each bite was indulgent but not overpowering and it was utterly delicious. A real highlight of the meal. Who would have thought?
Next up was the dish we were most excited to try – tagliatelle with black garlic, prawn and bottarga. This was a fantastic dish. The pasta and seafood sat in a rich, almost gravy-like broth full of seafood and garlic pungency. The prawns and pasta were perfectly cooked and each mouthful provided an umami hit. This is quite a powerful tasting dish and might not be for everyone but if you appreciate strong yet well balanced garlic and seafood flavours, it’s a must order.
To finish it was a dessert of creamy, dense dark chocolate parfait, roasted pear and salted toffee brittle. Just like everything else we enjoyed, this dish was indulgent, well balanced, and used just a few ingredients to great effect. All three components were fantastic by themselves, but even better when combined.
The drinks list is a simple one page affair, featuring around 20 Australian wines and a few French options, along with local craft beer and cider.
In a scene full of trends, hype and ‘Instagramability’, we find it refreshing whenever we discover a restaurant like Caddie. Evans cooks simple, produce driven food influenced by what he likes, and on the basis of this visit, we like what he likes, and think you will too.
Caddie
167 Swan Street
Richmond
Victoria 3121
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9427 8501
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Tue – Wed: 5:30pm to 11:00pm
Thu – Sat: 12:00pm to 11:00pm