MELBOURNE | Every few years, a venue opens in Melbourne that expands our knowledge of what Mexican food can be. In my travels through the South West of the United States I’ve eaten a lot of Mexican food, from food trucks and diners through to fine dining spots. Newly opened Hacienda, which I visited for What’s on Melbourne, is the closest thing in this city (along with Carlton’s Taquito), that I’ve found to the modern Mexican spots that I’ve enjoyed during my travels.
The space, formerly home to Italian restaurant Tutto Bene, in the Southgate Centre, is large one with an assortment of seating options, and an outdoor section with impressive views of the Yarra River and the CBD. Mexican influences and flourishes are incorporated in the fitout, in a way that’s neither tacky not kitschy.
The kitchen is headed up by Aussie chef Ross McComb. Ross spent seven years working in the kitchens of Mexico City, including the award-winning modern-Mexican restaurant Quintonil. He’s travelled extensively through Mexico, learning about its food and culinary traditions, and still owns two taquerias over there. It goes without a doubt, that Ross knows his stuff.
The menu eschews the tried and true street food with a twist that’s common with similar spots in Melbourne, for something more ambitious. It’s Mexican food with subtle international touches, that aims to capture what’s exciting about dining in Mexico City’s contemporary Mexican restaurants, today.
Small plates, include things like elotes (grilled street corn), with chapulines, fresh cheese and chilli; Western Plains pulled pork pork tacos with pico de gallo, and lime; and guacamole with fermented chilli, coriander, crispy shallots, lime, and tostadas. The latter two use Ross’ house-made tortillas which are wonderful soft or fried.
For grilled dishes, you can’t go past the tuetano. Three large marrow-filled half bones cooked in adobo, onion, and coriander, topped with pickled onions and capers to balance the fat. They’re served with warm tortillas so that you can make luxurious mini tacos filled with a bit of everything.
The zesty, ‘Pacific Coast’ ceviche of prawns, octopus, and fish with black habanero, lime juice, green mango, potato crips, is a highlight of the ‘raw’ section of the menu. Addictively intense, and served with crisp tostadas. You’ll also find larger dishes like 16-hour slow-cooked beef short rib with salsa borracha, burnt onions, and crispy potato. For dessert, try the burnt Basque cheesecake with mango, yellow chilli, and hibiscus.
Cocktails are the focus of the drinks menu, with a list developed by Ramón Tovar, of Mexico City’s Nardo Cocktail Club and Long Story Short. There’s classics, plus house creations like the ‘Frida’, which blends tequila blanco, sweet potato & pineapple shrub, rhubarb liquor, topped with coconut foam. The wine list is short and diverse, with a mix of local and international options.
Hacienda
M28, 3 Southgate Avenue
Southbank
Victoria 3006
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9826 4939
E-mail: n/a
Website
Open
Mon – Sun: 7:00am to 1:00am