MELBOURNE | Joe Taylor, a stalwart of North Melbourne’s bar scene for 12 years, was recently taken over by Scot Nottle, and his wife Pakchima “Mini” Punapaprasurt. You may know the duo’s other spot, Airport West cafe, Bola Bake. Joe Taylor has given them the opportunity to do something different, and bring an idea that’s been ruminating for a while, to fruition. I accepted an invite to come and check out the space.
It’s a warm space, featuring a long bar, a plush yellow cushioned and wooden panelled booth seating. There’s assorted nick knacks sourced from antique shops in Bangkok, and an eclectic selection of vinyl from Scot’s personal collection on display (and playing on the speakers).
Mini is a chef by trade, and her and Scot’s love of the food of her Thai homeland is what the new Joe Taylor is all about. The menu is anchored by the food that Mini and head chef Taarn Kasemra grew up with – herb forward, chilli-confident, and uncompromising, presented with flair.
A spanner crab tartlet reimagines thong muan, blending the crab with nashi pear, young coconut, trout roe, macadamia, and kaffir lime. It’s an exciting burst of flavours and textures, and a sign of what’s to come. A seasonal salad of crunchy, sliced persimmon with winter fruits, cashew, habanero dressing, Thai-basil, and lotus root crisps, is a must order delight. Also must order, is the Australia-meets-Thailand Kangaroo larb tartare, with galangal, Thai-northern spices, herbs, and tendon crackers.
For mains, pandan marinated, crispy pan-fried Hazeldene’s half chicken, with, turmeric, shallot crisp, and jus, is outstanding. You’ll also want to try the charred pork jowl, served with smoky larder rice, tamari yolk, green mango, ginger, and assorted condiments. If it’s seafood you’re after, get the whole red mullet, served with slow-braised vegetables, chilli tamarind glaze, and a squeeze of charred lime.
The drinks list at Joe Taylor is informed by what’s happening in the kitchen. If a cocktail, beer, or wine, doesn’t compliment something on the menu, it doesn’t make it onto the list. The wine list, put together by sommelier Pinitnat “Gigs” Sutarosvatcharathon, features around 70 bottles and rotates heavily. It’s up to the challenge of pairing spice an umami. Cocktails, by bartender Matt Went, features playful options like Mango Sticky Rice Martini, and the lychee and jasmine heavy, ??? (yes that’s the name of the cocktail).
Joe Taylor
7 Errol Street
North Melbourne
Victoria 3051
Australia
Telephone: 0468 865 687
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Tue – Sat: 5:00pm to 11:00pm