MELBOURNE | In a city full of excellent Italian restaurants, it takes something special to stand out. Roma Ristorante, the latest opening from Con Christopoulous, does this, by focusing solely on Rome as its inspiration. From the moment you enter, the attention to detail that’s gone into Roma Ristorante is apparent. The main dining room has an classic feel to it, with white tablecloths, a chequered tile floor, and vintage Italian light fittings. Lattice covers the ceiling, and the outdoor terrace. In the centre, a giant marble table filled with antipasto and flowers in vases.
The classic approach extends to the service, which is warm and attentive, but not overbearing. It’s not surprising given that the front of house is led by Giovanni Patane, who used to own Supermaxi with his wife Rita Macali. Rita can be found in the kitchen, cooking with head chef Matt Wilkinson.
The menu is extensive, covering the range of dishes that you can find in Rome’s traditional trattorias. It’s full of familiar favourites, plus dishes that are rarely, if ever, seen on the menus of Italian restaurants in Australia. A full page dedicated to offal is evidence of Roma Ristorante’s commitment to its concept. Other sections include appetisers, seafood, pasta and risotto, home cooked classics, and from the garden. If it’s just a small bite-to-go that you’re after, there’s also an adjoining snack bar and gelateria out front.
Golden-fried suppli, the Roman equivalent of Sicily’s arancini, come filled with either tomato and cheese; or snails, garlic, and parsley. They’re a delight. From the offal menu, you need to try the Cervella Fritte con Capperi (Fried Lamb Brains with Caper Salsa), and Polpetti con Fegato di Maiale all’Agliata (Liver & Pork Mince, Chestnut & Garlic Sauce). If you’re not convinced on offal, these two dishes may convert you.
The house-made pasta is outstanding. Nettle Ravioli, filled with Spinach and ricotta, is topped with a punchy Roman Dressing that uses olive oil, vinegar, and fermented anchovies. There’s whole fish, whatever’s good at the markets that day, fillets, along with grilled prawns and calamari. For meat, you have options like rose veal chop, pork scotch neck, and lamb shoulder chop.
Drinks wise, the wine list is where Roma Ristorante excels. An extensive selection of Australian and Italian wines, reasonably priced.
Roma Ristorante
120 Collins Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9989 1314
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Tue – Sat: 11:30am to 10:30pm