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TOKYO | Komakata Dozeu is one of Tokyo’s oldest restaurants, and has been operating in the same location since it opened in 1801. We’re recommending it in 2019, but needless to say we’re not the first. The restaurant appeared in the gourmet guide to Edo cuisines published in 1848.
The focus of the restaurant, now run by the 7th generation of owners, is still on traditional Edo cuisine. You have the option of sitting on tatami mats on the ground floor, or more familiar tables and seats upstairs. The specialty here Dozeu Nabe, a hot pot of eel-like freshwater loaches. They are marinated and cooked, then brought to you on a shallow pot with a little bit of sake and soy sauce-based bonito broth, and more broth on the side. A small binchō-tan (whie charcoal) grill is lit up, and slowly the dozeu are heated until the broth starts to boil.
Once the broth is boiling, you pile the pot with diced spring onions and enjoy. Top it up with some of the provided shichimi pepper and it’s time to eat. The flavour is mild and delicious, and the texture soft. If you notice the broth running out, simply top it up with the provided side bowl. There are a few seasonal sides on offer, but one look around the dining space and it’s obvious that everyone’s here for the dozeu nabe.
Do be aware that Komakata Dozeu is one of the few places in Tokyo that still serves whale. It’s not something that we agree with, but it is in keeping with the traditional Edo cuisine they’ve been serving for over 200 years. Whether or not that effects your decision to dine here is your call.
Komakata Dozeu have a second, newer store in Shibuya, but it’s worth going to the original if you can, as the experience is quite unique.
Komakata Dozeu
1-7-2 Komagata Taitō-ku
Tokyo 111-0043
Japan
Telephone: 03 3842 4001
E-mail: n/a
Website
Open
Mon – Sun: 11:00am to 9:00pm