SYDNEY | Josh and Julie Niland’s restaurant, Saint Peter, is perhaps the most unique dining spot in Australia. There’s nowhere else in the world where you’ll find seafood being researched, experimented with, prepared, and presented like it is here.
The restaurant moved from its Oxford Street location to the refurbished Grand National Hotel around the corner, in August this year. I’d enjoyed a wonderful a la carte lunch at the original spot in 2021, and was very excited about experiencing the full dinner degustation at the new space.
The front bar seats 30, and is where you can try the more casual side of Josh’s food. Think oysters, Big Eye tuna ‘Nduja scotch eggs, and a Yellowfin tuna and swordfish belly bacon cheeseburger. To drink its signature cocktails, local beers on tap, and great wines.
Behind the bar, you’ll find the 40 seater dining room, with a view of the open kitchen. Upstairs, there’s two floors of boutique accommodation. The kitchen is surprisingly slightly smaller than in the old space, but it’s built for a more efficient flow, with additional space out of sight for prep. As each dish is brought to your table, you’re given a run down of the genius behind it. It’s detailed and informative, but never stuffy and a whole lot of fun. Any questions that you have, the knowledgeable staff are more than happy to answer.
Most restaurants get a yield of between 45-55% from a whole fish. At Saint Peter, the yield is around 90%. A ramen-like starter of Coral Trout bone noodle soup features noodles that have been made from flour that comes from the roasted bones used to make the soup stock, which are subsequently pressure cooked and milled. The fascination when hearing about the process, continues through the night.
A gilda-like skewer contains an assortment of seafood charcuterie. It’s an evolution of a dish I tried back in 2021. Murray Cod chorizo, and Rock Flathead mortadella are mind bending and exciting. Paired with a signature chilled Oyster Shell Martini, it’s even better. It’s served with a sublime smoked Bar Cod Roe tart and John Dory liver pâté
Another highlight comes in the form of spaghetti bolognese, which is again, not what it seems. Noodles are thin, bouncy slivers of Southern calamari with a “mince” of Yellowfin Tuna ‘nduja. It’s divine.
The excitement continues all the way to the end, with a trio of petit fours which showcase seafood as dessert. An N25 Kaluga Caviar canelé, Nannyhai Eye crème brûlée macaron, and smoked chocolate filled with bones and fat, cap off a wonderful night.
There aren’t too many places that manage to excite inform in the way that Saint Peter does. Everything at version 2.0 of the restaurant has been refined, while retaining the sense of fun and casualness of the original. Above all, the food is delicious. Congratulations Josh and Julie, on creating what is truly one of the world’s best dining experiences.
Saint Peter
161 Underwood Street
Paddington
New South Wales 2021
Australia
Telephone: (02) 9167 3703
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Mon – Wed: 5:00pm to 11:00pm
Thu – Sun: 12:00pm to 11:00pm