MELBOURNE | I had the pleasure of checking out new dessert shop Saison for What’s on Melbourne. It’s a bit hard to find (at the moment), located down a laneway that doesn’t even show up on Google Maps, behind the construction site that will eventually be State Library Metro Station. Seek it out, and you’ll be treated to some of the best cakes and tarts in town.
I met co-owner and pastry chef Louis, who opened Saison with a friend and fellow chef. Louis has some serious pedigree behind him, having worked at places like Nomad, Grossi Fiorentino, and Cutler & Co, before striking it out on his own.
The name of the shop is a reference to the French word for “season”. Louis explained to me how the seasons inspire what’s on offer at Saison. Not just in terms of flavours and ingredients, but in the floral arrangements available to purchase, in the fleeting moments that each season brings with it. Think of how sakura/cherry blossom is revered, appreciated, and elevated in Japan for a just a few short weeks each year, and you’ve got the idea.
The desserts and Saison are things of beauty, that are as enjoyable to eat as they are to look at. French and Asian inspired, incorporating native Australian ingredients. Camelia of Melbourne is a cake of airy rose mousse, rosella gel, and lychee gel, atop a rice puff base. It comes in the shape of a rose, sprayed with a mist of rosewater before being served. It’s light, balanced, and not too sweet. Three things that form a common thread across the deserts.
A cheesecake of yuzu cream, cheese mousse, and yuzu gel is presented as a wedge of cheese, while the ‘Mangical Sago’ is gem-like creation filled with mango mousse, sago, coconut panna cotta, and lime gel, on a crumble base. Both are brilliant.
Larger cakes are available to purchase with advance notice, and there’s quality coffee, and other lattes, teas, and the like on offer. The black sesame latte, served with a house made sort of cross between a marshmallow and mochi, is one of the best versions I’ve enjoyed in Melbourne.
Saison
2/228 LaTrobe Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia
Telephone: 0449 284 425
E-mail: n/a
Website
Open
Wed – Sun: 12:00pm to 8:00pm