MELBOURNE | Hokkaido-born chef Fujio Tamura has been making ramen for almost 20 years. He’s the co-owner of Brunswick’s Ramen Shouyuya Sake Bar and Misoya Sake Bar, both well regarded for ramen. At his new Fitzroy spot, Udon Izakaya Tanukiya, Fujio has turned his attention to Japan’s other famous noodle, udon. I was invited in to take a look.
The space is mostly unchanged from when it was omakase restaurant Shusai Mijo, which Fujio also owned with business partner, Masayuki Iiri. It’s inspired by the neighbourhood udon shops of Kagawa Prefecture. Warm tones, light timber, a few tables at the front, and a long chef’s counter towards the back.
Fujio spent time in Japan trying an assortment of udon before settling on the ones that he felt best represented what he wanted to achieve. Imported from Kagawa, the udon are wonderfully thick, slippery, and springy. They can be enjoyed hot or cold as part of a set, or as single bowls.
The set gets you udon in kombu water, served with hot dipping broth mixed with freshly-shaved bonito, along with toasted sesame seeds, spring onion, ginger, and fresh wasabi to season each bite to your pleasing. You also get a cup of genmaicha. To complete the set, it’s options like prawn and seasonal vegetable tempura, seasonal sashimi, and karaage. I sampled all three, and enjoyed them all.
For bowls, it’s choices like tanuki (‘dry’ udon topped with tempura crumbs (tenkasu) and spring onion), kitsune (sweet-simmered inari tofu (aburaage) on hot udon in dashi broth), and tan tan (udon in a creamy, sesame and chili broth with three heat options, and pork mince).
While udon is the star at Udon Izakaya Tanukiya, the dinner menu also features an assortment of izakaya-style dishes that are well worth your time. Things like seasonal sashimi sourced locally and from Japan; crispy-fried agedashi tofu in dashi broth with wild vegetables; and lightly seared wagyu tataki, lightly seared and thinly sliced, served with a bright ponzu-style dressing.
To drink, there’s a tight selection of sake, Japanese beer, and local wines. You’ll also find highballs, and a few other Japanese-inspired cocktails.
Planning a wider food crawl in the area? Check out my updated guide to Where To Eat & Drink In Fitzroy & Collingwood.
Udon Izakaya Tanukiya
256 Johnston Street
Fitzroy
Victoria 3065
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9599 2799
E-mail: n/a
Website
Open
Tue – Sat: 11:30am to 3:00pm, 5:00pm to 9:00pm
Sun: 11:30am to 3:00pm