MELBOURNE | There has been so much written about Tom Sarafian’s long-awaited restaurant, , leading up to, and in the weeks after it opened late last month, that I figured I’d take a different approach here.
MELBOURNE | As you likely already know, Tom Sarafian’s long-awaited restaurant, Zareh, is here. In what will come as no surprise to anyone who knows Tom, and his partner, Jinane Bou Assi, it’s brilliant.
I first met Tom in 2019, when he was head chef at Bar Saracen. Recently returned from a trip to Mexico, he was doing a one-night event, exploring the little Lebanese-Mexican cuisine that evolved from the wave of Lebanese people migrating to Mexico in the late 19th century. I was hooked on Tom’s food from that night. With a shared passion for food, travel, and funky tunes, it didn’t take long for us to become friends.
Bar Saracen didn’t survive lockdowns, but its closure gave Tom the opportunity to run several pop-ups, and create his “Sarafian” line of hummus, toum, and harissa. His own restaurant was always the plan, but it had to be right.
Named after Tom’s chef grandfather, Zareh is an ode to his Armenian-Egyptian heritage, and Jinane’s Lebanese heritage. It’s inspired by Tom and Jinane’s travels through North Africa and the Middle East, and their family’s recipes. It’s honest, comforting food, refined by techniques learnt working in some of Melbourne and the UK’s top kitchens.
Stepping inside feels like walking into a family-run spot that’s been around for years. Staff, several of who are literally Tom and Jinane’s family, are friendly and passionate. Funky on-theme tunes play on vinyl through the custom sound system. The sound of joyous conversation fills the air, as does the smell of spices, and food being cooked over charcoal on the custom-built Brick Chef grill.
You’ll find Tom’s signature items, like hummus with king prawns and spanner crab, and juicy chicken kebab with toum and spiced green chilli on the menu. There’s also lots of new dishes, like thin-sliced wagyu bastourma, cured with chemen spices, layered on charcoal-grilled Akimbo sourdough, topped with goats cheese, fresh herbs and wood fired red bullhorn peppers. It’s all excellent. A pantry section features condiements and spices used by the kitchen, for home.
Cocktails, designed by Matt Linklater, are informed by the same influences as the food, with premium arak by Lebanon’s Arak Farid, featuring heavily. I’m a big fan of the ‘Sipan Slipper’. It’s a blend of pear mistelle, bianco vermouth, verjuice, soda, and citrus. There’s also a wine list filled with local and global drops, with a notable Lebanese, and Armenian selection.
Congratulations, Tom and Jinane, on the opening of Zareh. It’s a joy to see it finally open, and be everything that you both wanted. It’s been a pleasure getting to know you over the years, and Lauren and I wish you all of the success and joy that I’m sure Zareh will bring. Genats!
Zareh
368 Smith Street
Collingwood
Victoria 3066
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9070 0733
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Wed – Sat: 5:30pm to 11:00pm