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EatAlley, Melbourne CBD

MELBOURNE | A few years ago, Singapore-based, Kuala Lumpur native Sebastian Low, had the idea of bringing some of his favourite KL hawkers to Singapore. He made the idea a reality when he opened EatAlley on Orchard Road in 2023. Luckily for Melburnians, the second EatAlley location opened in QV last month, in the spot where Papa Rich used to be. I popped in for What’s on Melbourne to take a look.

EatAlley is modelled after a Malaysian/Singaporean food court, with nods to the vendors’ hawker heritage. All under the one roof, ordering is done through a QR code which combines all of the hawker’s menus. It’s an impressive line-up of vendors, some of which trace their heritage back over 80 years.

Indeed, the families who run each of the hawkers at EatAlley have had input into their Melbourne counterparts. As much of the same ingredients as possible are used, and kitchen staff have been trained by the OGs, some of which are in their third generation.

You’ll find options like 70 year-old bah kut teh specialists, Siong Huat; Koon Kee’s wonton mee; Kampung Nasi Lemak; and kopitam, Khiang Pin. The latter was run by the grandfather of EatAlley’s Australian operations manager, Kher Chink Pang, until he retired in 2023. EatAlley gave Kher the opportunity to revive his grandfather’s spot.

You’ll find plenty of classics to enjoy, like Hainanese chicken rice, laksa, and braised duck noodles, plus a few things that are done in ways not usually seen in Melbourne. Dark soy sauce braised and wok-finished KL Hokkien mee from Hong Lai Hokkien Mee are a must. For a winter warmer, Siong Huat’s comforting bah kut teh hits the spot.

For a different take on kaya toast, try the version from Khiang Pin, which swaps the usual white bread for bread that’s made in the style of a Hong Kong pineapple bun. It goes great with their salted cream topped kopi. You can also get the classic versions of both if you like.


EatAlley

Shop 11, L2. QV
Swanston Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Sun – Thu: 11:30am to 9:00pm
Fri – Sat: 11:30am to 9:30pm

Bottari, Melbourne CBD

MELBOURNE | Named for the traditional Korean method of wrapping and carrying belongings in cloth, Bottari is a recently opened Korean cafe on the outskirts of the CBD, that’s bundled up the best things about contemporary Korean cafe culture. I popped in for What’s on Melbourne to take a look.

When you walk inside you’ll notice that it’s a large space, with long communal tables. Owner Jiwoo Kim wants Bottari to be a place where friends and students can gather to just hang out, or to work on assignments. Judging by the laptop wielding crowds that were filling up the place as I was leaving, it’s been a success.

On the menu, you’ll find items that are currently trending in the cafes of Seoul, and seasonal creations. Regular coffees are excellent, and the lattes are delicious. Ah-ah, or iced Americano, is a year-round popular option, as is the chocolate and hazelnut spiked Fererro latte, and the light Jasmine cloud. The latter features floral jasmine green tea topped with a creamy cloud layer.

For food, it’s things like kkwabaegi (twisted, chewy, soy bean powered dusted donuts); buttery, layered, Korean-style scones; and sweet and savoury Korean corn dogs. It’s all tasty stuff, with an appreciated attention to detail.

On the shelves that line the left wall of Bottari, you’ll find an assortment of things to purchase for home. Coffee beans, gourmet sauces and condiments, apparel, zines, and more. To the other side, there’s an instant ramen wall, featuring an impressive selection that you can buy for home, or to heat up with water and enjoy in the cafe.


Bottari

600 Elizabeth Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Tue – Sun: 10:00am to 6:00pm

Lazy Morning, Melbourne CBD

MELBOURNE | To the side of an unassuming hallway in a nondescript Melbourne office tower you’ll find new Korean cafe, Lazy Morning. It’s a small spot, predominantly catered to take away customers, with a few tables and chairs out on Collins Street. I recently paid them a visit to grab some shots for What’s On Melbourne.

Lazy Morning isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel, it’s simply about serving up a compact selection of high quality Korean-inspired cafe dishes with a smile. The menu features tasty sandwiches and toasties, bibimbap (rice bowls), drinks, and sweets.

For a sandwich, it’s hard to go past the bulgogi K-egg sandwich. Soft and fluffy milk bread is loaded with creamy folded eggs, and sweet-savoury marinated beef bulgogi, with a slice of American cheese, and mayo. It’s one of the most popular items on the menu, along with the kimchi tuna melt. The latter twists the classic tuna melt by mixing creamy Korean cheese corn through the tuna, and adding some tangy, not too spicy, house-made kimchi.

For bibimbap, you can choose from flavours like spicy pork with gochujang and mixed veggies, and beef bulgogi with pickled veg.

To drink, there’s espresso and filter coffee drinks, plus specialty lattes like matcha, strawberry matcha, and mocha. Sweet treats include New York-style cookies, and croissants. Keep an eye out for limited croissant flavours like the recent Dubai chocolate croissant.


Lazy Morning

227 Collins Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: 0458 839 796
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Fri: 7:00am to 3:00pm

Udon Yasan, Melbourne CBD

MELBOURNE | Whenever someone asks me for some Melbourne “cheap eats” recommendations, I respond by asking what their budget is. Cheap eats is a subjective term, and can differ wildly from person to person. There are some places, however, that fit everyone’s definition of a cheap eat, and Udon Yasan is one of them. I’ve walked past the consistently busy udon spot many times with curiosity, and finally popped in the other day for What’s On Melbourne.

Udon Yasan specialises in udon bowls, with the noodles made fresh on site each day. A large menu at the front displays the 17 hot and cold udon options, almost all priced under $10. The cheapest will only set you back $5.30. There’s also a handful of donburi (rice bowls) on offer. Choices include things like sukiyaki beef udon, bean curd udon, and tonkatsu curry.

$1.50 gets you double noodles, and there are several additional free toppings. Service is extremely fast, with barely a minute passing between placing your order and your food being served with a smile. Shuffle up with your tray and you’ll find a warming station filled with fried extras priced at around $2 a serve. Things like karaage, assorted tempura, and tonkatsu. Grab the tongs and pop any extras you might want onto your tray, pay, and find a table. It’s easy, quick, and efficient.

I opted for the most popular, option on the menu, sukiyaki beef and half boiled egg on udon noodle soup. I also went for the sukiyaki beef on curry udon noodle, and the tonkatsu donburi. All quality options, and brilliant value considered. The broth, light, complex, and slightly smoky, combined with the bouncy, chewy udon are a wonderful base from which to build a bowl.

Udon Yasan is a place that fits any definition of a good cheap eat. Just like the places in Japan that inspired it, Udon Yasan strikes the perfect balance between price, speed and quality.


Udon Yasan

186 Bourke Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 11:30am to 8:30pm

Ho Jiak / Ho Liao / Da Bao, Melbourne CBD

MELBOURNE | In 2014, Junda Khoo quit his finance job to, with no formal kitchen or hospitality experience, embark on a journey that would lead him to open a small restaurant in Sydney’s Strathfield, focusing on Penang-style street food favourites.

Since then, Junda’s opened three more restaurants in Sydney (the Town Hall location is one of my favourite spots in town for a feed). Now it’s Melbourne’s chance to get in on the action, with not one, but three venues on Rainbow Alley, at the rear of the former Tivoli Arcade. I popped in for What’s On Melbourne to take a look.

At street level you have Da Bao, a primarily take-away window with some stools and seating to the side, offering a selection of $15 rice and noodle dishes. Things like char kway teow, Hainanese chicken rice, and nasi lemak, plus classic Malaysian drinks like bandung and teh tarik.

Go up a level, and you’ll find yourself at Ho Jiak: Junda’s Playground. Similar to Ho Jiak Town Hall, this is where you’ll find elevated, experimental Malaysian food. The fitout is classier too, but still casual. It’s where you’ll find things like Junda’s “laksa bomb” dumplings (as seen on Masterchef), roast bone marrow rendang curry with roti paratha (a long time favourite of mine), and raw kingfish with Assam laksa granita, and pineapple salsa.

On the top floor, inspired by the beer halls of Asia, is Ho Liao. It’s a vibrant, vibey space. Visit for casual dining inspired by Junda’s grandmother’s cooking, with a twist. Favourites include squid with butter, salted duck egg, and curry leaves; and loh bak – crispy bean curd skin rolls of pork jowl, pawns, and five spice with dipping sauces. You can also order any of the $15 lunch options from the Da Bao menu. The char kway teow is a must.

The drinks list is similar across Ho Liao and Ho Jiak, with a selection of Malaysian influenced cocktails and mocktails, local and Asian beers, and an extensive local and European wine list. I’m a big fan of the ‘Laici Breeze’. It’s a blend of lychee liqueur and sparkling white wine, topped with a pomegranate, calamansi, and chardonnay foam.


Ho Jiak / Ho Liao / Da Bao

Rainbow Alley
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: (03) 8637 0889
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Sun – Thu: 11:00am to 10:00pm
Fri – Sat: 11:00am to 11:00pm

98 Lygon Street Bar & Bistro, Brunswick East

MELBOURNE | Inspired by the classic bistros of France, 98 Lygon Street Bar & Bistro is a new venue by hospitality veterans Ben Clark and Simon Aukett. Located in the space formerly home to Maggie’s, much of the existing fitout has remained intact, while being a bit more casual and stripped back.

The front has been opened up and features comfy couches (yes that’s a nod an even earlier tenant of the space), and extends back, past a long timber bar, to an outdoor courtyard and a private dining room. To the side, a cosy dining space for those looking for a full meal, which you’re also more than welcome to enjoy at the bar.

The kitchen is headed up by former Builders Arms chef Brian MacAlister. He’s created a tight menu filled with bistro classics that are tweaked with the seasons. For snacks its things like beef cheek croquettes, Manchego and chive gougères, and toast with chicken liver parfait and pickles.

Larger dishes include things like barley risotto with confit duck, and steak frites. During the winter, you’ll also find a classic, comforting French onion soup to enjoy. And for dessert, crème brûlée of course.

The drinks list, features a mix of French wines, and wines from local, independent winemakers that nod to French styles. There’s also an assortment of house and classic cocktails, and three beers on tap. The house lager, brewed by Mountain Culture, is a great shout, and if you’re in the mood for a cocktail, try the Night Howler. It’s a tasty mix of Howler Head banana bourbon, Wild Turkey rye, burnt butter, and bitters.

As a local, I’ve popped in several times for a drink and a snack, and think that the team have created a space that’s right for the area. Casual, welcoming, and unpretentious, 98 Lygon does well in capturing the essence of what makes a bistro great, with a Melbourne touch.


98 Lygon Street Bar & Bistro

98 Lygon Street
Brunswick East
Victoria 3057
Australia

Telephone: (03) 7302 0018
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Sun – Wed: 12:00pm to 11:00pm
Thu – Sat: 12:00pm to 12:00am

Caractère de Cochon, Le Marais

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PARIS | If you like ham sandwiches, Caractère de Cochon, in Paris’ Marais district is a must visit. The tiny spot, which opened in 2013, is dedicated to the best quality hams and cured meats from across France, Italy, and Spain.

Owner Solo, who hails from Mauritius, but moved to Paris over 30 years ago, opened Caractère de Cochon when he noticed a gap in the market for this kind of shop, which he’d encountered while visiting Italy and Spain.

Hanging from the roof and in the fridges you’ll find all sorts of regional hams, sausages, and related products. You’ll also find a few other relevant things like pickles, baguettes, butter, and terrine.

The famed jambon beurre sandwiches here are sublime. You can build you own, or go for one of the default options. Either way, you can’t go wrong. Simple, unfussy, and quality.


Caractère de Cochon

42 Rue Charlot
75003 Paris
France

Telephone: 0142 747 945
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Sun, Tue: 10:00am to 4:00pm
Wed – Thu: 10:00am to 6:30pm
Fri – Sat: 10:00am to 7:30pm

Ristorante Atlantikos, Psiri

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ATHENS | If you’re in Athens and it’s a seafood feed that you’re craving, Ristorante Atlantikos should be on your list. Popular with locals and visitors who know where to look, Atlantikos is known for its high quality seafood. The sea’s bounty, grilled or fried, served simply in a variety of ways.

Located down a side street in the city’s Psiri neighbourhood, Atlantikos gets quite busy during peak times, with a small indoor dining section, and alfresco dining that spills out on the street and side alleyway. It’s a great atmosphere and the line moves reasonably fast. The restaurant also takes bookings before its busy period (after 10pm, Greeks like to eat late).

There’s a lot that’s enticing on the menu. I highly recommend going for a grilled and a fried option at a minimum. The mixed fried plate is a great option, featuring lightly dusted and fried school prawns, calamari, and anchovies, with lemon. Simple and brilliant, as is the grilled fish. Your choice of around 10 different fish depending on what’s fresh that day, served with lemon and a side salad. I had to go for the sea bass, given its unavailability in Australia, and was not disappointed.

Other dishes include things like seafood pasta, soup, baked dishes, and salads. The spaghetti with shrimp that seemed popular looked very appetising, so I ordered a plate and it was the perfect way to round off my meal. Paired with a glass of the house white, it was an affordable, tasty meal, and the perfect way to cap off a week in Athens before flying out the next morning.


Ristorante Atlantikos

Avliton 7
Athina 105 54
Greece

Telephone: 021 3033 0850
E-mail: n/a
Website: n/a

Open
Mon – Sun: 1:00pm to 1:00am

Akra, Pangrati

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ATHENS | Chefs Giannis Loukakis and Spiros Pediaditakis opened all-day eatery, Akra in 2023. Housed inside a restored mid-century building, the space respects the sites past, aiming for a nostalgic, homely feel. The open kitchen nods to the home kitchens of that era, lining the wall, continuing to the rear where you’ll find the chef’s counter, facing a custom wood-fired open grill and stoves.

Upstairs, on the mezzanine, is a private dining and events space. It’s also where you’ll find Akra’s on-site bakery, the source of the restaurant’s bread and pastries. During the day, Akra operates as a cafe and casual lunch spot, with the front counter of baked treats and excellent coffee enticing diners. There’s a full lunch menu, and by night, it’s in full restaurant mode.

Cold, raw dishes, and hot dishes cooked on the open fire impress equally at Akra. It’s unfussy food at its heart, made using the best quality seasonal produce, respecting tradition with exceptional technique and contemporary flair. Several of the dishes are finished tableside, adding a sense of theatrics to the meal.

When I visited for dinner, I enjoyed things like semi-cured mackerel with cucumber juice and almyra greens; the most wonderful cherry tomatoes with summer berries and dry anthotyro cheese; and gamey roast rooster with spicy tomato sauce, fried potatoes, and Graveria cheese from Naxos. To finish, a wonderful mushroom and fennel fricassee in avgolemono.

I didn’t have any space for dessert, but given how wonderful the options looked, and the fact that Akra originally came onto my radar for its baked treats, you bet that I came back two days later in the morning. Given how enjoyable dinner was, I wasn’t surprised to be equally impressed by the pastries and coffee that I enjoyed.


Akra

Aminta 12
Athina 116 35
Greece

Telephone: 021 0725 1116
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon: 7:00am to 11:00pm
Tue – Fri: 10:00am to 11:00am
Sat – Sun: 9:00am to 11:00am

Avli, Psirri

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ATHENS | If you’re in the mood for affordable, traditional taverna-style Greek dishes, served in a homely, unpretentious space, Avli is the place for you. Located in Psirri, a central Athens neighbourhood known for its vibrant hospitality and entertainment scene, Avli is popular with locals and visitors alike.

Hidden down a narrow passageway, with just a small sign above, means that despite Avli’s location, you’ll only find the restaurant if you know where to look. Even then, you might miss it. The dining space is squeezed into a covered outdoor alleyway between two old workshops. White painted walls, blue doors and windows, chequered tablecloths, and assorted family trinkets all add to the traditional taverna atmosphere.

The family that started Avli originally opened it as a cafe to serve nearby shopkeepers, in a part of town that, until the late 1990s, was predominantly working class neighbourhood with a rough reputation. The blue painted doors you see in the alleyway, were the entrances to a variety of workshops. Takis Stamatelopoulos, who started working at Avli in the 1980s, eventually took over the cafe and gradually expanded the menu, turning Avli into what it is today.

The compact menu features classic taverna dishes cooked using recipes from Takis’ extended family. Things like keftedakia (crisp crusted fried meatballs with a moist interior); pan-fried meats and offal; dolmades, saganaki, and salads.

I ordered Greek salad, saganaki, dolmades, house sausage with mustard, and fried liver. All of the dishes were outstanding, with the latter being particularly nostalgic. Free crusty bread to mop up the salad juice and wonderful sauces, is much appreciated. To drink, a nip of tsipouro and a glass of the house red, matched the meal perfectly.

Do be aware that Avli doesn’t take bookings. If you want to avoid a wait of up to an hour during peak times, I advise arriving for lunch at 1:00pm, when Avli opens.


Avli

Ag. Dimitriou 12
Athina 105 54
Greece

Telephone: 021 0321 7642
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Wed – Mon: 1:00pm to 2:00am