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Kalyvas Family Grill, Koukaki

Paul
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Kalyvas Family Grill, Koukaki

ATHENS | Approaching the end of my time in Athens, I’d somehow managed to not yet visit and old school psitopolío (grill house). While exploring Koukaki that day, I noticed Kalyvas Family Grill. It was pumping, full of people from all walks of life enjoying themselves, and food coking out of the kitchen that looked good. I figured that I’d take a chance and have dinner here the next day, and I’m glad I did.

Kalyvas Family Grill House was opened by Ioanna and Joanna Kalyvas is 1993, taking over from a much smaller hole in the wall grill spot they’d been operating around the corner since 1977. Today, Ioanna and Joana’s sons – Thimios, Dimitri, and Kostas, run the show.

The menu is filled with psitopolío classics. An assortment of grilled meats like gyros, souvlaki, kebabs, and meat cooked on the spit. There’s also a selection of grilled veg and sides. It’s not a huge menu, but it’s a very appealing one.

I went classic with my order. Pork kebabs with grilled tomato, pita, and chips; roast lemon potatoes with tzatziki; grilled green peppers filled with semi-melted feta and diced fresh tomato; and beef liver. All quality, delicious versions of the dishes that I was craving, and exactly the unexpected find that I was looking for.

Kalyvas Family Grill

Cnr Dimitrakopoulou 91-93, G Olymbiou 10
Athina 117 41
Greece

Telephone: 021 0923 1257
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 12:00pm to 2:00am

ΦΙΤΑ (Fita), Neos Kosmos

Paul
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0
ΦΙΤΑ (Fita), Neos Kosmos

ATHENS | A contender for some of the most creative and innovative Greek food in Athens, is ΦΙΤΑ (“Fita”). Fotis Foteinoglou and Theodoros Kassavetis opened Fita (or Phita as you might see it written) in 2019, and it remains at the front of mind for Athenians looking for a fresh take on things.

Head chef Dimitris Dimitriadis took over the kitchen in early 2024, and has stayed true to Fita’s ethos, while helping to take things to the next level. Dimitrios, who’s parents were farmers, focuses on market-fresh seasonal produce sourced from small, independent, Greek producers. The menu leans heavily on seafood, vegetables, and legumes, and promotes lesser known, sustainable fish.

When I visited, there were a handful of Japanese flourishes dotted throughout the menu, making me even more exited to eat here. Think technique, rather than ingredients. Greek produce and flavours, seen though a different lens.

Sourdough ladenia (Greek focaccia) with wild garlic and the most memorable P.G.I Olympia organic extra virgin olive oil takes garlic bread to the next level. Big chunks of beetroot atop a bed of almond cream, with soft cherries, pickled beetroot, radish, and black sesame oil, is an exciting seasonal plate.

Also outstanding, the beetroot ‘nigiri’, which sees beetroot infused rice topped with smoked eel, seasonal greens, and bacon vinaigrette. Continuing the seafood theme, delightful ceviche-like marinated raw mullet topped with fish roe mousse, served in tomato-pepper-onion juice.

Next, a plate of spaghetti served simply with more of that excellent olive oil and bottarga (salted, cured fish roe), was wonderful. It, along with the other dishes, paired perfectly with a bottle of amphora-aged @sclavoswines Roditis Orange. A great recommendation out of the many interesting, small-scale choices on the wine list.

To finish the night, as the sun set, a reimagined ekmek kadayıfı hit the spot. Sheep milk ice-cream, compote cherries, and peanut cream, topped with crispy kadayıfı.

ΦΙΤΑ (Fita)

Ntourm 1
Athina 117 45
Greece

Telephone: 021 1414 8624
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Fri: 7:00pm to 12:00am
Sat: 2:00pm to 5:00pm, 7:00pm to 12:00am
Sun: 2:00pm to 6:00pm

72H Artisanal Bakery, Syntagma

Paul
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72H Artisanal Bakery, Syntagma

ATHENS | Ergon Agora is one of my favourite spots for a feed and fresh produce in Thessaloniki. There wasn’t a chance I was going to visit Athens and not visit their bakery, 72H Artisanal Bakery.

Part of the wider Ergon House development, which is home to a boutique hotel, grocery store, and cafe, 72H is the place to visit if you want Greek baked classics done right, wonderful 72hr slow fermented sourdough, and the best cinnamon scrolls in Athens. There’s traditional and creative flavour options, made using the best quality local produce.

You’ll also find a rotating selection of sandwiches, along with a variety of excellent hot and cold espresso and filter coffee.

72H Artisanal Bakery

Cnr 27 Mitropoleos & Patroou 9
Athina 105 57
Greece

Telephone: 021 6000 6770
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 7:00am to 10:00pm

Stani, Omonia

Paul
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Stani, Omonia

ATHENS | Founded in 1931 by Nikolaos Karageorgou, Stani, is a must visit if you’re looking for some of the best dairy products in Athens.

Hailing from the village of Athanassios Diakos, famed for its high quality dairy, Nikolaos opened his store in Piraeus (today part of greater Athens), and then the current location in central Athens, in 1949. Stani’s first, and flagship product, is their yoghurt. It’s how I found out about them. There’s cows and sheep milk yoghurt, with a variety of fat and straining levels available.

Trey also make rizogalo (rice pudding), cream puddings, loucoumades (Greek honey donuts), and dairy-based pastries like galaktoboureko.

Grab some yoghurt when your there, to enjoy for breakfast the next day with fruit from the market and local honey. Also be sure to grab some rizogalo, and say yes to the optional cinnamon dusting when asked. You can really appreciate the quality of the milk with each bite.

Stani

Marikas Kotopouli 10
Athina 104 32
Greece

Telephone: 021 0523 3637
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 7:30am to 9:00pm

Line, Petralona

Paul
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Line, Petralona

ATHENS | Line is one of the most innovative bars that I’ve had the pleasure of visiting in recent years. It’s well deserving of its accolades, including being ranked number 6 in the recent World’s 50 Best Bars awards.

Owners Vasillis Kyritsis, Nikos Bakoulis, and Dimitris Dafopoulos set out to turn this former art gallery into a bar that would stand out from the rest and redefine craft bartending, and it does.

Much of what you’ll find on the menu is made on site. Seasonal fruits grown by small Greek producers, ferment and are turned into complex, wine-adjacent concoctions they call “why-ins”, while cocktails and seasonal riffs on the classics excite.

“Classic” Apple why-in 2023 is made from pink lady and Fuji apples grown in Katerini, while “Fancy” Pomegranate why-in 2022 features Acco pomegranates from Tithorea, with flavours of smoke, walnut, rose, and tomato. They’re drinks that will confuse, surprise, and wow you.

Cocktails also impress, incorporating local craft spirits, and by-products from the brewing of the house beer. The Bar’s zero-waste philosophy also sees the kitchen and the bar working in tandem to great effect. On that, the food here is also excellent, with creative riffs on classic Greek dishes and bar favourites.

It’s things like Greek-inspired hot dogs, Cretan rice pilaf arancini, and tuna tartare “giouvarlakia”. If you’re there for lunch and it’s on the menu, the mushroom and veg spanakopita, topped with a runny egg, served with whipped feta, and house made chilli crisp oil, is a must try.

Line

Agathodemonos 37
Athina 118 53
Greece

Telephone: 021 1750 7185
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 10:00am to 2:00am

Lefteris o Politis, Omonia

Paul
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Lefteris o Politis, Omonia

ATHENS | If you’re a fan of gyros/souvlaki, especially if you’re a purist, Lefteris o Politis is a must visit. The tiny standing room only spot was opened in 1951 by Istanbul-born refugee Stavros Savvoglou, and has been serving up the same excellent pita wraps ever since.

Named for Stavros’ son, Lefteris, the venue is today run by his son, Tasos. Unlike the common gyros or souvlaki, the pita here is served with marinated long meatball-like kebabs, sprinkled with a bit of paprika and, if you choose the spicy option, chilli flakes.

Along with meat, the pita is also filled with tomatoes, onion, and fresh parsley. And that’s it. It’s the old school way, with fries and tzatziki not really becoming common fillings until the 1980s. And you know what? These don’t need anything more.

The meat is juicy and wonderfully charred, and the soft, fluffy pita, pushed against the kebabs while grilling for an infusion of fat and meat sauce, is wonderful.

Lefteris o Politis

Satovriandou 20
Athina 104 32
Greece

Telephone: 021 0522 5676
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Fri: 10:00am to 9:30pm
Sat: 10:00am to 5:30pm

Annie Fine Cooking, Neos Kosmos

Paul
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Annie Fine Cooking, Neos Kosmos

ATHENS | I’ve been loving the new wave of Greek restaurants that have opened in Melbourne over the past two years. Many are inspired by the vibrant contemporary dining scene of Athens today, so I was excited to experience that scene first hand.

First stop, Annie Fine Cooking. Owned by experienced restaurateurs, Ioli Vrychea and Panos Stogiannis, Annie Fine Cooking is a charming spot named after Ioli’s mother, that’s about showcasing the best Greek produce, in a contemporary way, with an Athenian heart.

The kitchen is headed up by Konstantina Kasparidou, who has worked in kitchens across Greece’s mainland and islands. Konstantina sees Annie as an extension of her own kitchen, creating inspired dishes on a menu that can change daily based on what’s good at the market that day, and what’s inspiring her.

I was impressed by everything that I ordered. Familiar flavours and textures presented in a new and exciting fashion.

Raw amberjack with the most amazing quality extra virgin olive oil and crunchy samphire, sublime. Orzo with octopus and spinach, amazing. Parpadelle with slow cooked goat and fragosirianai cheese, a comforting warm hug.

Did the meal remind me of the new wave of Greek restaurants in Australia? Somewhat. While amazing, I’d like them to be bolder. A greater use of succulents and native Australian ingredients, while remaining rooted in culture and tradition, I feel, would really elevate things. Perhaps Melbourne isn’t ready for that yet, but when I think of, say, how chef Ross Magnaye is expressing his Filipino heritage in a uniquely personal and Aussie way at Serai, I think we are.

Annie Fine Cooking

Menechmou 4
Athina 117 43
Greece

Telephone: 021 0921 3690
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 6:30pm to 12:00am

Diporto, Omonia

Paul
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Diporto, Omonia

ATHENS | When you’ve been around since 1887, you’re clearly doing something right. And so it is as Diporto, a tiny hidden basement taverna located around the corner from Athens’ central market.

Diporto might appear on a of the “where to eat in Athens” lists these days, but don’t be fooled into thinking it’s a tourist trap. It’s where you’ll find one of the best meals you’ll enjoy in Athens – simple, affordable food designed for the working class, cooked with market fresh produce.

There’s no menu, you simply ask for a table and eat what’s given to you. The simple, small kitchen is run by an old guy cooking everything, while front of house is run by a younger man (his son, perhaps?). The latter speaks a little English. Enough to tell you what each dish is and help service move along.

The menu at Dirporto is driven by the market, but more or less unchanged most days. A hearty vegetable stew with crusty bread to mop up the wonderful thick soup, lemony slow cooked chickpeas, and grilled sardines. Maybe some Greek salad or maybe not, depending on the table. It’s all wonderful.

To drink, there’s one option, a house retina wine served in a jug, tapped fresh from the restaurant’s kegs.

For me, the meal was a nostalgic trip to similar meals enjoyed at my baba and dedo’s house. A must visit restaurant when in Athens.

Diporto

Cnr Sokratous 9 and Theatrou 2
Athina 105 52
Greece

Telephone: 021 0321 1463
E-mail: n/a
Website: n/a

Open
Mon – Sat: 11:30am to 7:00pm

Kings Fresh Burek, St Albans

Paul
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Kings Fresh Burek, St Albans

MELBOURNE | Almost a year ago to the day, I was discussing Macedonian food with a colleague of mine. I was lamenting the fact that it was so hard to find burek/pita/zelnik/cora, or whatever you want to call it, that came close to what my baba made. Having Macedonian heritage himself, my colleague enthusiastically recommended Kings Fresh Burek. I excitedly added it to my “Melbourne food” list on Google maps, and as these things often go, didn’t manage to visit until last weekend.

Kings Fresh Burek are a family business, with locations in St Albans (the one that I visited), and Epping. They specialise in Macedonian-style burek (in this case the large, pie-like version) and zelnik (their coiled version). If you want the latter, you’ll need to get in early or pre-order, but there’s always burek available either by the slice, or as a whole pie. You can get your burek baked to order, or buy it frozen, to bake fresh at home.

Fillings include things like beef mince, sirene (soft, ricotta-like white cheese), feta, sirene and spinach, leek, and spinach. I was too late for the zelnik, but got a whole pie of meat burek, and the sirene. It was instant nostalgia when I saw it and took that first bite. The flavour, the texture, the crispiness, and the level of oiliness – all just right.

You might think that it’s the same as the Greek spanakopita, or Turkish borek that you’ve tried, but it’s not. Very similar, of course, but the fillings are spiced differently, and the oiliness and crispiness is different – greater than in the south, less so compared to the north. The closest that I’ve had on my travels is the version that I had at Bougatsa Bantis in Thessaloniki, with a sprinking of the burek I ate at Pekara Trpković in Belgrade. Which isn’t surprising given North Macedonia’s geographic location.

Beyond burek and zelnik, there’s also a few other things like gevrek (sesame bagels), cheese or jam kifli (scrolls), and other Macedonian baked treats. You’ll also find a few shelves of Balkan pantry items, and bottles of ayran (drinking yoghurt) and Prilepska Gazoza (pear soda) in the fridges.

Kings Fresh Burek

58 Kings Rd
St Albans
Victoria 3021
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9364 3752
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Tue – Sat: 5:30am to 4:00pm
Sun: 7:00am to 12:00pm

The Lone Fisherman, Tooting

Paul
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0
The Lone Fisherman, Tooting

LONDON | Jamaican, and Caribbean food in general, isn’t easy to come by in Melbourne. When I lived in London there were a few places that I’d visit to get my fix, but one which I never got around to trying was the The Lone Fisherman. On my most recent visit back, I rectified that, heading to Tooting Market with friends to get my fill of the good stuff.

The Lone Fisherman is owned and operated by Christopher Smith, a South Londoner with deep Jamaican roots. He specialises in homestyle Jamaican cuisine, enriching the local community with the flavours of his heritage.

You’ll find classics favourites on the menu like rotisserie jerk chicken, slow cooked ox tail, and an assortment of fish dishes, Chris’ speciality. It’s all cooked to order with love by Chris at his market stall, and Chris is up for a chat while he’s prepping your meal.

I had to go for the signature fried fish escovitch, along with jerk chicken. Vibrant, bold island flavours with a wonderful balance of sweet, salt, sour, and heat.

The crispy fried fish is served with rice, salad, and plantains, along with vegetables pickled in a tangy vinegar sauce infused with pimento, thyme, and scotch bonnet pepper. The juicy and tender jerk chicken, meanwhile, comes with salad, rice, peas, and plantains. Both are an essential order.

I also opted for a Jamaican patty filled with tender goat, one of the assorted fillings on offer. Thick, flaky pastry filled with tender, flavoursome slow-cooked curried goat that hit the spot.

For home, you can grab Chris’ bottled sauces, infused oils, and dressings, along with things like Jamaican peanut drops and sweet Jamaican cakes. To drink, I recommend a pint of very well priced sangria or Super Bock from the Portuguese spot directly opposite the Lone Fisherman.

The Lone Fisherman

Tooting Market
21-23 Tooting High Street
Tooting
London SW17 0SN
United Kingdom

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sat: 11:00am to 7:00pm

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