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Toko Melbourne Opens In Prahran

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MELBOURNE | Toko Melbourne is owner Matt Yazbek’s 4th Japanese restaurant, following the original Toko in Sydney, another in Dubai and Tokonoma Sydney. In a homage to those that have come before it, the Izakaya style menu, drinks list and the fit-out take the best of what has made the other venues successful and adds to that some new touches.

toko melbourne prahran review

The deceptively large space is split into several distinct areas and fits very well in its “south of the river” locale. The main room consists of a long bar, seated dining area for 120 people and casual stand-up tables, all which overlook the open kitchen and sushi bar. To the side is an outdoor area with a Japanese garden along with a small, whiskey and cocktail bar with couches and a more relaxed vibe. There’s also a private dining room available. The fit-out, a collaboration between architect Annie Snell, Toko interior designer Matt Darwon, and Yazbek is understated and very stylish, making use of natural timber, exposed brick and low lighting.

toko melbourne prahran review

toko melbourne prahran review

The launch was a curious mix of those in the world of food and fashion, along with media personalities and B-grade celebrities. Banish what stereotypes might be entering your mind about the kind of place that Toko might be however – throughout the evening my guest and I were impressed by the professionalism and friendliness of the wait staff. There wasn’t the slightest hint of pretension from the staff, and they were all on top of their game when it came to knowing about the food and drinks on offer and the concept of the venue.

toko melbourne prahran review

So the space is classy, and the service is top notch. What about the food and drinks? As would be expected given the offerings at the other Toko restaurants, the drinks list is very impressive. The focus is on creative cocktails, rare and top shelf Japanese whiskeys (for example the Nikka Taketsuru 17 yo, which I loved when in Japan but always seems to be out of stock in Australia) and a carefully selected sake range. Toko even have their own sake, Tokubetsu Junmai, which has been created in conjunction with Japan’s Nanbu Bijin brewery. For beer drinkers it’s the usual Asahi Super Dry on tap, along with the less common in Australia Asahi Black.

toko melbourne prahran review

toko melbourne prahran review

You might be thinking that there’s a risk of Toko choosing style over substance when it comes to the food but my guest and I were impressed with everything that we ate. Our favourite was one of the most simple dishes offered during the night – thinly sliced kingfish with a yuzu dressing and chives (hiramasa no usuzukuri). The sushi and tempura were also very good, as was the double cooked pork belly and the beef tataki.

toko melbourne prahran review

toko melbourne prahran review

toko melbourne prahran review

At the end of the night, my guest and I walked out of Toko with smiles on our faces. At its core, Toko is all about simple dishes and authentic flavours that let the top quality produce take centre stage – exactly what Japanese food is about. I know I’ll be back for more.

Toko Melbourne opens on Friday 11 September 2014.

Toko Melbourne

142 Greville Street
Prahran
Victoria 3181
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9521 3155
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.toko-melbourne.com/

Open
Wed – Sun: 5:00pm to late

Toko Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Burnt Ends: Review

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SINGAPORE | Burnt Ends Singapore describes itself as a “modern Australian barbecue” restaurant and has received a lot of praise since opening in 2013 for its innovative food. More than one person I’ve spoken to has referred to their experience at Burnt Ends as one of the highlights of their dining year, and indeed it currently sits at number 30 on the San Pellegrino list of Asia’s 50 best restaurants. It also made Zagat’s list of “Top 10 restaurants in the world” in 2014. To say that I was expecting amazing things is an understatement.

burnt ends singapore review

What exactly though, is modern Australian barbecue? Most people’s image of Australian barbecue is the gas burner grill, with a range of steaks and beef sausages being turned one too many times until charred and well done. Speak to an American and the enduring image of Paul Hogan talking about “throwing a shrimp on the barbie” will come up more often then it should.

Head chef and co-owner Dave Pynt, who left Australia to spend time learning about barbecue with charcoal master Victor Arguinzoniz at Asador Etxebarri, and did a stint at Noma before opening a highly regarded pop-up in London has taken all of his knowledge and used it to create something special, something that takes inspiration from not just Australian barbecue, but American, Spanish and British barbecue too. Smoking, slow roasting, hot roasting, baking, grilling and cooking directly on coals are all methods that are employed to get the best out of the fresh, high quality, seasonal product that’s used.

burnt ends singapore review

There are a range of small plate options on the menu which is written from scratch each day, however it’s the barbecued meat that’s the draw card here. Meat is cooked using custom built 4 tonne, dual cavity ovens and 3 elevation grills. Grabbing one of the 17 highly sought after seats at the bar, one can see the precision with which this equipment is operated, and the temperature and flames controlled to ensure optimal cooking conditions are achieved. It’s like watching a well oiled machine operate with understated theatrics.

The drinks menu contains a focused selection of wines, primarily Australian small growers; family wineries, regional styles and varietals. Artisanal spirits are also offered, along with a small selection of craft beers from Australia and elsewhere.

Smoked Quail Egg & Caviar ($15.00)

What a way to start a meal. The smokiness that infused the quail egg was subtle and accompanied the saltiness of the caviar perfectly. Such a simple item that was executed flawlessly.

burnt ends singapore review

Duck Hearts & Peri Peri ($10.00)

I’m a big fan of chicken hearts, having been introduced to them in the Izakayas of Japan but had never come across duck hearts before. These were cooked to perfection – again a subtle smokiness combined with the slight heat and sweetness of the peri peri sauce to create magical bite sized delights. The duck hearts were cooked perfectly and were slightly chewy but not overly so.

burnt ends singapore review

Kingfish, Green Mango & Pepperomia ($15.00)

The meat might be the draw card at Burnt Ends but that doesn’t mean that the non-meat dishes aren’t also fantastic. This lightly cured kingfish ceviche went well the the tropical flavours and the dish was a good way to mix things up before returning to the meaty end of the scale.

burnt ends singapore review

Rump Cap, Burnt Onion & Bone Marrow ($26.00 per 100g)

It was a tough choice to decide which of the larger plates I would go for but in the end I settled for this. The rump cap was cooked to perfection. Salty with an intense charcoal grilled crust and beautifully pink inside, each bite was confirmation that there is still good in this world. The bone marrow melted in my mouth when it hit my tongue and the burnt onion sauce was indulgently delicious. This is how you do steak.

burnt ends singapore review

burnt ends singapore review

burnt ends singapore review

Burnt Ends promised a lot, and somehow managed to exceed my high expectations. There wasn’t a single thing on the menu that I didn’t want to try – indeed one of the dishes that I didn’t try, the Burnt Ends’ Sanger (a pulled-pork sandwich with chipotle aioli and coleslaw), is considered by many to be one of the menu’s highlights. From service to the food and the atmosphere, everything was excellent and I too, now count my meal at Burnt Ends as one of my dining highlights of the year. If only it was possible to find Australian barbecue like this in Australia.

Burnt Ends

20 Teck Lim Road
Singapore 088391

Telephone: 6224 3933
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.burntends.com.sg/

Open
Tue: 6:00pm to late
Wed – Sat: 11:40am to 2:00pm; 6:00pm to late

Cheese Making At Bee Sustainable

MELBOURNE | Have you ever wanted to take a course may that be in dancing, cooking, business or sport and not known where to find one that works for you? WeTeachMe came up with a solution to this problem by creating an online platform that makes a range of courses available to you at the click of a button. The City Lane was invited to take WeTeachMe’s system for a whirl. We made our way through the extensive list of courses and settled on a cheese making class at Bee Sustainable in Brunswick East.

bee sustainable cheese making brunswick east

Bee Sustainable focuses on helping people lead a sustainable life by providing speciality supplies and workshops in the areas of bee-keeping, cheese making, baking and food-preservation. The classes are run by Jacqueline Bender, an advocate of sustainable living and keen home cheese maker.  Jacqueline runs small classes of 8-10 students which allows you to get hands on experience and ask as many questions as you like. It is a great setting to learn a new skill such as how to make Mozzarella and Ricotta in our case.

bee sustainable cheese making brunswick east

bee sustainable cheese making brunswick east
Throughout the class we were taught how to coagulate milk, dehydrate curds and techniques for safe production of creamy ricotta and stringy Mozzarella. Don’t worry if you think it will be too much to remember or to hard, all participants are given notes and recipes so that you can try making the cheeses at home. Addtionally,  the classes are targeted at beginner cheese makers with no knowledge of the cheese making process. I have to admit I was so inspired by the workshop that I made goat cheese ricotta a few weeks later.

bee sustainable cheese making brunswick east

bee sustainable cheese making brunswick east
The classes are taught in a really fun manner and as you measure things out, check temperatures and stir away, the 2.5-3hr workshop will flies by. By the end of it you will know how easy it is to actually make cheese on purpose (curdling milk doesn’t count). If you are still not convinced at the easy of making cheese check out Jacqueline’s ricotta at home recipe.

bee sustainable cheese making brunswick east

I have to say the best part of the class is learning how to stretch your Mozzarella and try to shape it. There was something joyous about making curds and whey going everywhere as you pull and shape the cheese it in part reminded me of being a kid and the sensation of playing with play dough. After you have finished making cheese (and a mess) you are then able to take the cheese you made and a range of other styles of cheeses Jacqueline has made at home. At the end of  the class you are able to take home some of the cheeses you made.

bee sustainable cheese making brunswick east

bee sustainable cheese making brunswick east

Over all it’s a really enjoyable way to spend a Saturday morning and a good option if you are looking for something to do with a parent, partner or friends. If you want to give cheese making a go (or learn about bee keeping for that matter) check out Bee Sustainable’s range of courses on WeTeachMe.

Thanks To Jacqueline at Bee Sustainable, we’ve got a double pass to an upcoming cheese Mozzarella and Ricotta making class (held once a month) to give away. To enter, simply subscribe to The City Lane’s weekly newsletter in the SUBSCRIBE section at the bottom of this post and let us know about your favourite cheese in the comments section.

Winners will be notified by e-mail on Sunday 20 September 2015.

bee sustainable cheese making brunswick east

Bee Sustainable

500 Lygon Street
Brunswick East
Victoria 3057

Beer & Doughnut Tasting With Grub Club

LONDON | If you could pair beer with any food item, what would it be? How about doughnuts? A few weeks ago, we went to an innovative pop-up beer and doughnut tasting put on by Grub Club held at the recently renovated pub The Birdcage at 80 Columbia Road. Grub Club puts on pop-up dining experiences all over London. They connect chefs with foodies via creative and innovative pop-up experiences. Beer and Doughnut tasting was their latest concoction.

beer and doughnuts grub club

The Birdcage, since its recent sale and renovation now comes under the Draft House name. The name of the game at any Draft House pub is great beer making it a perfect venue for beer and doughnut tasting. The beer for this event was put on by Five Points Brewing Company and the doughnuts by The Hole, both based in Hackney. The Hole pops up at various events around London with its “Hole” foods. The Hole is known for its unique doughnut combinations from savoury to sweet. One of their standout creations is the Katsu Curry doughnut- which unfortunately didn’t make the tasting menu.

beer and doughnuts grub club

The event sold out quickly, much to the chagrin of some of our friends who didn’t act fast enough to get one of the 40 spots available.

For £15.00 per person were treated to five “courses’ of half pints and doughnuts. The doughnuts from The Hole were extraordinary and totally expanded my idea of what constitutes the realm of doughnuts. From savoury to sweet the pairings were:

Five Points Pale with a Salt & Vinegar Doughnut

The doughnut was smartly served in a chip style wrapping. The beer was a refreshing an American style pale. The combo was both sweet and savoury.

beer and doughnuts grub club

Five Points IPA with a Pineapple & Coconut Doughnut

The beer was an IPA with both Australian and American hops which were strong on the tropical flavour. The doughnut featured candied pineapple and coconut in the icing. This tropical combination was just delicious.

beer and doughnuts grub club

London Smoke with Rosemary, Sea Salt, & White Truffle Oil Doughnut

This was a powerhouse of flavour not least because the beer packs a punch at 7.8% APV. London Smoke is aptly named – it definitely has a strong smoke flavour. We really are a sucker for truffle as it always leaves a long lingering after taste (apologies if everything from this point on now has “hints of truffle”)

beer and doughnuts grub club

Hook Island Red with British Cherry Doughnut

The beer was a big red ale with 6% ABV and 20% rye hops. The cherry and other dark fruits definitely came through in flavours of the beer. The doughnut featured cherry jam and an actual cherry on top. This one left us thinking “Why don’t we eat more cherry jam?”

beer and doughnuts grub club

Railway Porter with Chocolate & Toffee Doughnut

This was the dessert course. The 4.8% ABV beer was made from 7 different British malts and hops had hints of toffee and chocolate. The doughnut was topped with a chocolate and toffee icing and a piece of crispy toffee.

beer and doughnuts grub club

We’ve heard about Grub Club as way for talented chefs to host dinner parties all over London before. Their events range from Michelin dinners to beer & doughnuts and all things in the middle of the spectrum between fine and causal dining.. They’ve hosted events in Clock Towers and Underground carriages just to name a few. The only thing they do guarantee is that no two nights are ever the same.

This beer & doughnut event was the kind of event you could attend solo, with a group of friends, or to impress a new date. No doubt the next time they offer up Beer and Doughnut tasting it will be another sell out. We look forward to seeing what combination Grub Club puts together next. In the meantime, if you’re in this part of town and looking for a great beer, decent gastropub food and a welcoming atmosphere, you should definitely consider stopping in at the Birdcage.

The Birdcage

80 Columbia Road
London E2 7QB
United Kingdom

Telephone: 020 7739 5509
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.drafthouse.co.uk/

Open
Mon – Thu: 4:00pm to 11:00pm
Fri – Sat 12:00pm to 1:00am
Sun: 9:00am to 10:30pm

Click to add a blog post for The Birdcage on Zomato

Common Man Coffee Roasters: Review

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SINGAPORE | Common Man Coffee Roasters Singapore is part of the 3rd wave coffee scene that has hit Singapore in recent years. Once upon a time, not too long ago, it was hard to get a good coffee in Singapore, with chains like Starbucks and The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf dominant on the scene. The chains are still there, however now there are several options for those in need of a good brew.

common man coffee roasters sinagpore review

A collaboration between Harry Grover of 40 Hands, Five Senses Coffee, and the Spa Esprit Group, Common Man takes its coffee seriously. Five Senses beans are roasted in house and every range of coffee style you could want is available. These guys are involved in every step of the process, from dealing ethically and directly with sustainable, independent growers right through to of course, the cafe. The cafe itself is quite open and contains high ceilings and makes good use of brick and wood. It strikes a good balance between being modern and using colonial era flourishes.

common man coffee roasters sinagpore review

Single Origin Filter Coffee ($6.00)

My coffee of choice was a Ying Zero single origin bean from Ethiopia prepared by the pour-over filter method of brewing. The tasting notes that came with the coffee were very helpful and indeed the coffee had a light, juicy fruitiness to it which was exactly what I was looking for. A black coffee will set you back $4.50 and a white $5.00.

common man coffee roasters sinagpore review

Organic Eggs Benedict ($24.00)

Moving on to the food side, it was difficult to choose just one item from the impressive all day breakfast menu (there’s also a lunch menu available from 11:00am). Just as is the case with the coffee, the produce used by Common Man is ethically sourced, seasonal and organic where possible. I ultimately decided on the Organic Eggs Benedict which consisted of tender braised ox cheeks, 2 poached organic eggs and chive hollandaise on sourdough Everything worked together perfectly. The ox cheeks were rich in flavour and tender, while the eggs were poached perfectly, with a vibrant gooey orange yolk.

While everything on the breakfast menu sounded great, you should be made aware that as well as the Eggs Benedict, the Common Man Pancakes are also one of the most recommended dishes.

common man coffee roasters sinagpore review

Beans can be purchased either whole or ground to your liking.

common man coffee roasters sinagpore review

common man coffee roasters sinagpore review

If you’re looking for a great coffee and some excellent food you really can’t go wrong with Common Man. it’s pricey yes, but that’s unfortunately not uncommon in Singapore these days. They even run a barista academy in conjunction with the highly regarded Australian Barista Academy for those who want to learn more about the mighty little coffee bean.

Common Man Coffee Roasters

22 Martin Road
#01-00
Singapore 239058

Telephone: 6836 4695
Email: n/a
Website: http://www.commonmancoffeeroasters.com/

Open
Mon – Sun: 7:30am to 6:00pm

Interview With Arthur Kiong, CEO Far East Hospitality

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SINGAPORE | When The City Lane was invited to visit Singapore by Far East Hospitality, I did some research in order to learn more about the brand. I learned a lot about the company’s philosophy, corporate structure and all that jazz, but something I wasn’t expecting to be so interested by CEO Arthur Kiong. To say that this radio DJ turned hotel executive’s ideas are unconventional is an understatement. I was keen to chat to Arthur while I was in Singapore and, while I was staying at the Village Hotel Albert Court, I was afforded this opportunity.

Asking Arthur about how he got to where he was today involved going back to the start. In Arthur’s case this was his position as a platoon commander for the Singaporean Army while doing his national service. Anyone who has worked in large corporations knows that there are many parallels that can be made between the army and a corporation. Rigid structures, inflexibility, chain of command are common elements in both so it’s understandable that many of the skills that one learns in the army can be transferred to the corporate world. Arthur told me that they way he thinks about strategic matters has been very much moulded by his time in the army.

After his military service, Arthur chose to take on a vocation. He went to a local radio station in Singapore to get a job doing some stage work and due to some miscommunication at the station’s end Arthur found himself doing a voice test. The next thing you know, he was working as a radio announcer. At that time, the role of the radio announcer in Singaporean radio was very much a literal one – announce what’s been and what’s coming up between songs and ad breaks. Arthur had other ideas though, and having been inspired by radio DJs like Rick Dees that he admired from the USA, he started to act like a proper radio DJ, despite protests from his conservative employers. The gamble worked, and he became quite successful. However due to the rigidity of Singaporean society and pay scales, he was still earning a lowly radio announcer wage. He therefore decided to break out of the industry and move into hospitality.

I’ll fast forward now and move to a very interesting part of Arthur’s career that he discussed with me. By the late 1990s Arthur had become a successful hotel executive, specialising in marketing and communications and made the decision to move to New York City when he was offered a role with Ritz Carlton, who had left NYC several years earlier and were in the process of building a new hotel. They wanted to announce their return to New York and Arthur saw this as a big challenge. The analogy he used was that he had reached a position in his career where he was “Superman on Earth” and that this move would be like “going to Krypton”. Obviously on Krypton, Superman isn’t that special.

While at the Ritz Carlton, Arthur had a bold and creative idea about the advertising campaign. Throwing aside the traditional, stale marketing that was currently being used – think generic people doing generic things, Arthur had the idea of using the Statue of Liberty, but with raised arms in a “we’re back!” kind of gesture. A lot of people in the organisation thought that this was too left field for the brand and wanted to kill the idea. Arthur put his career on the line and went above their heads to the CEO of the company and, after a lot of back and forth, and a lot of burnt bridges, the ad was approved and printed for release in several publications on… 11 September 2001. Arthur thought it was all over, and the ad was pulled but not before it had already been printed in several publications. What happened next though, was very unexpected. The ad was a success, with people seeing the image as a sign of defiance in the face of tragedy – it went on to win several awards. The moral of the story? Timing and luck account for a lot more than you could imagine!

This line between compliance and innovation is something that Arthur mentioned several times during our chat, and it’s something that he continued to practice when he moved to Far East Hospitality. This was an opportunity to create something with a relatively unknown, Singaporean brand which was quite a different challenge compared to brands like the Ritz Carlton, Peninsula and Mandarin Oriental where he’d worked previously. One of the first things Arthur did was to remove all star ratings from the properties. There’s no consistent definition of what each star in a given hotel means, and people aren’t loyal to brands any more so what’s the point? Why not let the product be the brand?

In the case of Far East Hospitality, it’s about conveying the best parts of the Singaporean mindset in each of the hotels. Comfort without excess, aesthetics without ostentation and attention without pretension. The Far East Hospitality hotels sit in the mid-tier segment and all aim to offer a something a little different depending on the banner. The Quincy hotels are urban chic, Oasia hotels are for road warriors, Village Hotels are for urban explorers and Rendezvous Hotels are about business. If people don’t choose hotels based on brands, which is especially so in the mid-range market, then why not make the hotels appeal to aspects of each customer’s personality and travel style? It’s an interesting idea and one that I can certainly appreciate.

When I choose a hotel I’m very much looking for something that’s reasonably priced, and in a good location close to all of the things that I like to do. I don’t spend too much time in the hotel – for me it’s all about location, a comfy bed to crash on each night, and a good shower. The brand is ultimately irrelevant – it’s the product that’s important.

I really enjoyed listening to Arthur speak about his career and his plans for Far East Hospitality. He’s an interesting guy, and certainly has the courage and resilience to go against the grain and trying new things. As someone who doesn’t work well with arbitrary rules, conventions and preconceptions, I found it inspiring to meet someone who has made a success of himself by doing things differently.

Quesos de España aka Cheese From Spain

MELBOURNE | When I think about countries that produce cheese, Spain does not come to mind. I automatically think of blue cheese and washed rinds from France, Mozzarella and Parmesan from Italy, bold cheddar from the United States and Australian feta and goats cheeses. I spent a little time thinking about whether I was familiar with any Spanish cheese and all I could think of was Manchego. I’m not the only one who is ignorant when it comes to Spanish cheeses, which is why the Trade Commission of Spain is currently taking part in a campaign to introduce people to cheeses that are made and imported from Spain.  The City Lane was invited to an event to try around 30 different Spanish cheeses. Let’s just say it was our kind of event.

Quesos de España aka Cheese From Spain

Recently, Food Standards Australia and New Zealand lifted the ban on raw milk cheeses which has allowed the introduction of unpasteurised cheeses into Australia. This regulatory change has had a huge impact upon the imported cheeses on offer in the country. I tried some astounding raw milk cheeses such as the Torta de Canarejal and the Picon Bejes-Tresviso.

Quesos de España aka Cheese From Spain

Torta de Canarejal is a sheep’s milk cheese from northern Spain which is aged for 2 months. In this time the centre of the cheese becomes gooey, creamy and mellow in flavour thanks to the use of thistle based rennet. Part of appeal with this cheese is the theatrical way in which it is served. The entire top of the cheese is sliced off and you either scoop out the runny centre with a spoon or dunk in your bread/bread stick to soak up the delicious goodness.

The second raw cheese I really appreciated was the Picon Bejes-Tresviso. Picon Bejes-Tresviso is a blue cheese originating from Cantabria in Northern Spain. The variety on offer was from a producer called Casa Campo who make the cheese using raw ewe milk from three particular breeds of ewes; Tudanca, Laxta and Pyrenees. This gives Picon Bejes-Tresviso a slightly spicy flavour with an intense aroma.

I have to admit that all the attendees were huddled around the raw cheese table out of sheer interest, however the pasteurised cheeses did not disappoint.

Quesos de España aka Cheese From Spain

Queso de oveja en aceite de oliva (Entrepinares) was one of my highlights from the evening. This pasteurized sheep’s milk cheese is cured in olive oil for 10 months producing a hard cheese which is creamy with a delicate buttery taste. Perfect served as part of a cheese board with a full bodies red wine.

Quesos de España aka Cheese From Spain

I also have to give Manchego an honourable mention, It’s one of the most well known Spanish cheeses and for good reason. Mancehgo is a delicious ewe’s milk hard cheese from the La Macha region in Spain which has a sweet nutty flavour. It’s one of those cheese that is perfect when served with some crusty bread and a glass of robust red wine.

Another noteworthy cheese was the Valdeon D.O.P, a delicious  blue-vein  made in Posada de Valdeon. This gorgeous cheese is classically a combination of goat and goat” milk curds wrapped and matured in sycamore leaves for two months. This result is a  strong, aromatic cheese which is buttery on the palate and has an earthy after taste.

This event certainly opened my eyes up to the world of Spanish cheeses and thankfully, there are quite a few places you can find them in Melbourne now – check out Harper & Blohm, Richmond Hill Cafe & Larder, The Cheese Shop Deli and Quality World Food for a start.

 

S02E09 – Season 2, Episode 9

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PODCAST | In this jam-packed episode, Chris searches for a great beer at a football game; Paul takes on an unexpectedly, terribly, unbelievably bad beer; and Jeff finds a Garage Project takeover in the heart of Hong Kong. We also take on beer and pop band collaborations, and then try to understand why they exist.

On top of all this, we fight over if something is a red IPA … Chris really wants it to be a red.

Featured beers: Vindicator by Panhead Custom Ales and Enlightenment Sencha Saison by Renaissance Brewing Company.

Discoveries At The Kashan Bazaar

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KASHAN | As I walk through the winding passageways of Kashan Bazaar in Iran I’m fascinated by the contrasts that I encounter at every corner. This must be a spice market I think to myself, but at the next turn it’s a textile market, then an electronics market, then a food market, then a market for activities best left to another day. What is this place that I’m walking through? What is it that I’m supposed to find?

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

The city of Kashan dates back at least 9,000 years and by some accounts this is where the 3 wise men of biblical lore originated. The validity of this fact is something that I’m not able to verify however more immediate matters occupy my mind.

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

“Come” whispers a voice nearby. One of my travelling companions has been to this place before and recognises this man but to me he is merely the owner of a tea shop… or is he? “Come” he repeats again, hand gesturing to a door that appears to lead to somewhere forbidden. It is at this time I notice the key in the tea shop owner’s hand. This key it turns out, is about to unlock a passageway to something quite spectacular.

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

As my companions and I follow this man through the Kashan Bazaar, a market that dates back to… well nobody is certain, the adrenaline kicks in and my senses go into overdrive. Where is this man taking us? Are we safe? Are we allowed to go here?

Invigorated by these heightened emotions, we follow this man as he searches his key chain for one particular key and proceeds to unlock a door. Again the man gestures for us to follow him and so we do, through the doorway and up a poorly lit, narrow stepped stairwell leading somewhere, destination unknown.

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

As we walk up the stairwell we pass a room, a living quarters or an office perhaps, and a man who is half asleep on his chair barely acknowledges us as we continue our ascent. We reach a point and turn down a passage way, then left then right, or was it right then left? At this stage I’m not so sure. We venture up, then down, and in a multitude of directions at various times pausing to ensure that our small group is still intact, such is the winding and confusing nature of the passageways through which we are traversing.

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

Finally, we reach a door and the man smiles. “Come” he beckons once again as he stands aside while pointing us towards a stairwell that is bathed in natural sunlight.

As I head up this stairwell, the light getting ever brighter I can sense that something special awaits me. When I finally reach the top and walk through the door, I am faced with a scene that I never expected to find.

As I gather my breath and my thoughts, I start to process where it is that I am. On the rooftop of an ancient market, looking over a town that’s over 9,000 years old. Little do I know however, that this is just a teaser of what is to follow. Again, the mysterious tea shop owner with the key says “come” and gestures onward. I follow him, sure that the only place he can lead me is somewhere that I need to be. As I walk along the clay roofs of the Kashan Bazaar I’m wary of losing my step and of damaging my camera. On all fours at times, I need to crawl up domes and mounds. What I find when I reach the man is something astounding. A view like no other. Not only am I on the rooftop of this magical place, but the sun is setting.

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

The man gestures to a hole in the roof and points to a makeshift line around the hole. It’s the grand light well of the Timche-ye Amin od-Dowleh section of the bazaar which was built in the 19th century. This makeshift line is the only thing separating me from an untimely demise as the light well is completely open. I lean over and try to get a shot. Not good enough, I lean over further, body trembling in fear of what could happen should I slip. The man too is getting nervous. “Police” he says, “hurry” he says. Clearly, my companions and I are not supposed to be up here. I lean over further and get the shot I was looking for. I take a final look at the sun setting over this beautiful ancient city and then follow the man back down into the bazaar.

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

Just like that, its as if this surreal experience never occurred. I am in the bazaar looking at trinkets, and a man is in his tea shop selling tea and talking to customers. The police pass us without incident. People go about their day. What just happened? Did it happen? I feel blessed – this is what travel is all about.

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

rooftop kashan bazaar iran

Keralas Ways Dinner Series: Upcoming Event

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MELBOURNE | Keralas Ways is a cooking show and documentary series created by chefs Mischa Tropp and Laura Neville. The show is designed to celebrate the unique food and culture of Kerala, India. This project is still in its infancy and to introduce the public to the highly diverse flavours of Kerala, Tropp and Neville have created a progressive 8 course Seafood and Coconut degustation. The dinners will run over 4 days, with all proceeds from the dinners and a separate crowd funding being used to get this fascinating project off the ground.

The City Lane was invited to try 4 courses from the Kerala’s Ways 8 course degustation menu and we were keen to see what the flavours of this part of India were all about.

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Meen Fry

The first dish was Meen Fry – deep fried whiting served with a coriander sauce . This dish was my favourite course of the evening. The fried whiting was crispy without being greasy while the coriander sauce was light and fragrant.  I also appreciated the way this dish was presented, it was served on a common plate with the person across from you. The idea is to encourage even one to interact with one another adding to the overall ambiance of the evening.

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Fish Head

From the very vague menu description I was hoping that we were served whole fish heads which would challenge most western palettes. However sadly this was not the case, instead a dainty fish dish was presented. Understandably, whole fish heads would not be appealing to the masses but in my opinion you can’t call a fish head a fish head if there isn’t a whole fish head on the plate. Despite the slight misrepresentation by its description this was a pleasant dish however not a show stopper.

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Squid Curry

The last savoury course of the evening was a flavourful twist on a squid curry. The squid was stuffed with a spicy rice mixture placed on a bed of squid ink and sprinkled with toasted rice. The dish had a spectacular balance of flavour with an unexpected level of heat which made it very enjoyable.

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Fudge & Tea

The Fudge & Tea was a lovely refreshing way to finish off our mini degustation. The dish was comprised of a solid looking coconut fudge and a cup of brewed oolong tea. The coconut fudge was really surprising as it looked like a solid biscuit however as soon as I bit into the creamy coconut mass it fell a part in my mouth. It was a very thoughtful way to conclude the evening.

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I have to all give a special mention to the waitstaff, the servers were incredibly attentive and knowledgeable. One of the waiter’s informed us that in fact all of the waitstaff were friends and family of Tropp and Neville . They all really believe in what these 2 chefs are trying to achieve and wanted to help out however they could.

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Our evening at Keralas Ways Dinner Series was highly enjoyable. If you are interested in checking out Keralas Ways Dinner Series or donating to their crowd funding project check out this link.

Keralas Ways Dinner Series

When: Fri 11 September to Mon 14 September

Cost: $85.00 + Booking Fee

Where: The Baron Said. 83 Kerr Street, Fitzroy 3056