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Sanguan Sri, Pathum Wan

Paul
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Sanguan Sri, Pathum Wan

BANGKOK | When talking about a city’s heritage, we often speak about protecting architecture, and cultural touchstones. Hospitality venues are an important part of the fabric of a city, but it’s not often that they stand the test of time. Venues close , concepts change, owners move on to new challenges.

It’s rare to find a restaurant that survives for decades, barely unchanged since the day that it opened. Every city has them, however, if you know where to look. In Bangkok, one such restaurant is Sanguan Sri.

The restaurant opened in 1970, and can be hard to find in a neighbourhood that’s change immeasurably since then. Behind a small, unassuming door, a few metres back from the main street in a part of Bangkok that’s surrounded by high rise office towers, hotels, and shopping malls, is where you’ll find Sanguan Sri. Walk inside and it feels like you’ve walked into a different era.

Miss Sanguansri ran the restaurant until she passed away aged almost 100, several years ago. She left no heirs, passing the restaurant down to her staff, many of who have been here since the start. The decor, from the big stuff down to the tissue dispensers, is from another time. It’s great.

The food here is simple. A selection of signature classic Thai curries and other home-style dishes, plus several rotating daily specials. Portions are small and affordable, allowing you to order a few different things. I opted for a trio of classics – soy braised eggs and tender, slow-cooked braised beef in ‘brown sauce’, a wonderfully fragrant chicken green curry, and a fiery fried spicy fish ball curry.

I’m all for progress, but it’s equally true that some things don’t need to change. If the constant stream of locals, young and old from all walks of life, keep coming in here like they did the day I visited, there’s every chance that Sanguan Sri will be around for decades more.

Sanguan Sri

59, 1 Witthayu Road
Lumphini, Pathum Wan
Bangkok 10330
Thailand

Telephone: 02 251 9378
E-mail: n/a
Website: n/a

Open
Mon – Sat: 10:00am to 3:00pm

Om’s Living Room, Silom

Paul
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Om’s Living Room, Silom

BANGKOK | Om’s Living Room is a tiny craft beer bar located in a blink and you’ll miss it residential street in the backstreets of Silom. There’s no signage out the front, and when you walk in you can see where the name comes from. Om’s Living Room has a real local’s feel, a speakeasy of sorts that feels like you’re in someone’s house.

Across the 12 taps, you’ll mostly find beers from local independent Thai brewers, plus a few taps dedicated to crafty imports, and a “mainstream” tap pouring Singha, Asahi Superdry, and the like. Sometimes you’ll find the owner’s own beers on tap.

There’s soy crisps and nuts to nibble on that come free with each drink, and a TV with live sports, showing things like EPL games on game night.

Om’s Living Room

15, 2 Soi Si Lom 11
Silom, Bang Rak
Bangkok 10500
Thailand

Telephone: 081 172 0724
E-mail: n/a
Website: n/a

Open
Mon – Sun: 5:00pm to 1:00am

Err Urban Rustic Thai, Watthana

Paul
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Err Urban Rustic Thai, Watthana

BANGKOK | Chefs Duangporn “Bo” Songvisava and Dylan Jones made a name for themselves with their fine dining restaurant bo.lan. It opened in 2008 and was lauded for its approach to Thai food, with a three pillar philosophy centred around minimal-waste, sustainability, and local produce. This philosophy is also true of the duo’s more casual spot, Err Urban Rustic Thai.

At Err, you’ll find a menu with more of a street food influence. Share plates to be enjoyed with good company and drinks. There’s a focus on in-house preserves and ferments. Peep inside the kitchen and you’ll see all sorts on interesting things hanging from the ceiling and filling jars.

Err maintains a close relationship with local farmers and producers throughout Thailand, with the three pillars of their philosophy front of mind. Dishes are influenced by Thailand’s diverse regions. It’s high quality, rustic, bold food that tastes great.

Nang Kai Tort, deep-fried chicken skin served with house-made Sriracha sauce is a must. You also have to try the Kaki Paloa Tod. This one sees crispy, tender five-spice braised pork trotters served with a tangy, sweet, and spicy orange chilli vinegar dressing.

Yum Gueng Gai, chicken gizzard salad with local greens, is a delight, as is the Sai Krok Issan – Issan-style pork sausage cured with organic gaba rice (germinated brown rice). They also do a fantastic beef mince pad kaprao (stir-fried Minced beef with holy basil and deep fried egg).

To drink, it’s a selection of quality drinks modelled after Bo and Dylan’s nearby bar, Wasteland. Wine and beer from suppliers who share the duo’s philosophy, plus sodas and cocktails made using ingredients from the kitchen that many would consider to be waste. Things like lime peel, winter melon skin, and leftover wine from unfinished bottles.

Err Urban Rustic Thai

56/10 Thong Lo Road
Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana
Bangkok 10110
Thailand

Telephone: 02 622 2292
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Thu – Tue: 5:00pm to 11:00pm

Sarinthip Thai Dessert Shop Taladplu, Thon Buri

Paul
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Sarinthip Thai Dessert Shop Taladplu, Thon Buri

BANGKOK | Sarinthip Thai Dessert Shop Taladplu is a small vendor out the front of the Talat Phlu market. The family-run stall have been making traditional khanom beurng (thai crepes) for four generations, and are still as popular as ever.

These aren’t crepes as you know them. The batter is fried, forming a light, thin, crispy casing for the fillings. There are two flavours to choose from. A sweet version with shredded coconut and foi thong (golden egg yolk threads), and a savoury option filled with shrimp paste. Grab a mixed bag to-go, and enjoy.

Sarinthip Thai Dessert Shop Taladplu

Thoet Thai Road
Talat Phlu, Thon Buri
Bangkok 10600
Thailand

Telephone: 089 801 3477
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Tue – Sun: 8:00am to 10:00pm

Talat Phlu Dessert Shop, Thon Buri

Paul
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Talat Phlu Dessert Shop, Thon Buri

BANGKOK | En route to desert spot at a place that I had marked on my list in Talat Phlu market, I walked past another place that got my attention. The roller doors at the front had just come up, and locals were scrambling for a ticket. There was no English anywhere. What was this place that was so popular? Take a punt and grab a number? Why no

As the line rapidly grew, bags of desserts started to be placed on top of a long display cabinet, while large trays of assorted, colourful treats arrived in multiple deliveries. Clearly, this was a dessert shop. As it would happen, the name of the place is very literal – Talat Phlu Dessert Shop.

By 11:30am, the cabinet was full, and the vendor opened for business. As I waited for my number to be called I, I tried to decide what to order. Green, probably pandan. White, likely coconut, the wobbly squares, akin to kueh. I figured that leaving it to the experts was the right move, so typed “eight of your most popular desserts please” into Google Translate.

‘29’ was called, and I showed my phone to the person serving me while saying it in English on the off chance they knew what I was saying. The translation worked. I received a nod, smile, and a thumbs up. Soon I had my desserts.

I found a spot around the corner, sat on the ground with Lauren, and we enjoyed our sweets. Later research didn’t bring up much about this place. It’s name is descriptive – Talat Phlu Dessert Shop. It’s been around since 1989 (which led to me discovering and exploring the world of 1980s ‘T-Pop’), and has been consistently popular ever since it opened. The formula is simple. An assortment of quality traditional Thai desserts, made using family recipes passed down through the generations, at affordable prices.

I did end up going to the place that was on my list afterwards (more on that another time), but am sure glad that took a punt and grabbed ticket number ‘29’. Well worth the wait of just over an hour, for both the sweets, and the little ‘slice of local life’ experience.

Talat Phlu Dessert Shop

1129 Soi Thoet Thai 25
Thon Buri
Bangkok 10600
Thailand

Telephone: 066 2466 9332
E-mail: n/a
Website: n/a

Open
Thu – Sun: 11:30pm to 5:00pm

Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Centre, Phra Nakhon

Paul
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Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Centre, Phra Nakhon

BANGKOK | Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Centre is a Bangkok art gallery, housed in a renovated 1930s classical revival building. It showcases contemporary artworks from local and Thai artists across its permeant collection and limited-run exhibitions.

On the third floor, you’ll find the ASEAN Cultural Center. It features interactive exhibitions, multimedia presentations and artefacts depicting local identities and ways of life of each ASEAN member country.

Entry is free, and captions are displayed in both Thai and English.

Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Centre

84 Ratchadamnoen Avenue
Wat Bowon Niwet, Phra Nakhon
Bangkok 10200
Thailand

Telephone: 02 224 8030
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Tue – Sun: 10:00am to 7:00pm

Small Dinner Club, Si Phraya

Paul
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0
Small Dinner Club, Si Phraya

BANGKOK | There was only one high end restaurant that I had booked in before arriving in Bangkok on my recent trip, and that was Small Dinner Club (‘SDC’). It’s a 12 seater chef’s table restaurant by owner/head chef Sareen Rojanametin, that challenges preconceptions about Thai food and ingredients, opening up new perspectives on what’s possible, and stoking a sense of discovery.

The restaurant opened last year, but is actually an evolution of a concept that I wanted to try in Melbourne, but never got the chance to before it closed. Sareen used to own Carlton cafe Nora, which presented diners with creative South East Asian inspired breakfasts. In 2016, the Friday night pop-up dinners SDC, became the main concept.

Between closing Nora in 2017 and opening SDC in 2022, Sareen (who actually studied photography in Melbourne before becoming a speciality coffee barista, and then self-taught chef) worked in some of the world’s top restaurants, then spent two and a half years as a monk in a Thai forest monastery. All experiences which have informed the SDC experience.

Melbourne’s loss has been Bangkok’s gain, as what Sareen is doing in his hometown is something very exciting. The 12 or so dishes on the menu arrive over a three hour period. You’re given the name of the dish, its inspiration, and nothing more. After you’ve had a few bites, Sareen and his team ask you questions and give you more details about the dish – ingredients, techniques, and the story behind the dish.

It’s a different way of eating that sounds gimmicky, but after years of tweaking the concept, it’s anything but. The experience does get you thinking about what it is that you’re eating in a different way. It’s educational, and a whole lot of fun. Most importantly of all, it’s delicious.

‘Daft Punk is Playing in My Mouth’ sees a plate come to the table to the sounds of LCD Soundsystem’s ‘Daft Punk Is Playing At My House’. The dish contains a particular ingredient, hidden in the most unexpected part of the plate. ‘Winter’s Bone’, presents bone marrow with flavours and textures I’ve never had it paired with before. Two different tom yum dishes deconstruct the humble classic, encouraging diners to view the dish from different perspectives.

Diners are encouraged to chat with each other and to interact with the staff. It’s very much a place for the curious. At the end of the meal you’re given a full list of ingredients for each dish. I’ve been purposely vague on my descriptions as to not spoil anything for you should you dine at SDC.

Dinner at SDC is one of most interesting and unique meal experiences I’ve enjoyed this year. It might have taken me seven years to try Sareen’s food, but it was worth the wait.

Small Dinner Club

1109 Charoen Krung Road
Si Phraya
Bangkok 10500
Thailand

Telephone: 083 992 9669
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Thu – Sun: 6:00pm to 11:00pm

Pierre Hermé, Watthana

Paul
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Pierre Hermé, Watthana

BANGKOK | Pierre Hermé is one of my favourite French patisseries. From their cakes to their teas, and their signature macarons, you can’t go wrong. Thankfully, with an outlet in Bangkok’s EmQuartier, you don’t need to go to Paris to enjoy it.

At the counter you’ll see an assortment of macarons on display. There’s signature flavours like chocolate, ispahan, and salted caramel, along with a rotating selection of seasonal creations. There’s also chocolates, cakes, and other pastires.

To drink, it’s loose leaf teas, chocolate, and coffee-based drinks. Try the ‘Satine’. It’s a blend of Ceylon and Assam teas with a touch of orange and passionfruit.

There’s a small retail section of items to take home, but unfortunately there aren’t take away teas and jams like at some of the larger Pierre Hermé outlets.

Pierre Hermé

EmQuartier
695 Sukhumvit Road
Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana
Bangkok 10110
Thailand

Telephone: 02 003 6444
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 10:00am to 10:00pm

Yentafo Convent, Silom

Paul
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0
Yentafo Convent, Silom

BANGKOK | Yen ta fo has become one of my favourite Thai dishes since I first tried it a few years ago. The noodle soup, instantly recognisable for its bright pink broth, is a masterclass in balancing flavours and textures.

The broth is sweet, savoury, and sour, with heat coming from chilli oil which you add to your liking. Yentafo Convent have been serving up the dish for over 40 years, which many rate as one of the best in town.

When Yentafo Convent started in 1977, their recipe was shared with Yentafo Wat Khaek, which is generally considered to be Bangkok’s yen ta fo street stall. Over time, Yentafo Convent’s recipe evolved into the signature recipe that the restaurant is known for, which uses tomatoes and sweet potatoes in the broth.

There’s two noodle options on the menu. Yen ta fo, and clear broth minced pork and seafood bowl. Both come as a small or large serve, with your choice of flat rice vermicelli, egg noodles, rice noodles, or flat rice noodles. I opted for the signature yen ta fo with flat rice vermicelli.

The broth here hits all the right notes. Mildly sweet with a nice tang to it. Beyond the noodles, the bowl is filled with springy fish balls, crispy wantons, pig’s blood cubes, and crunchy kang-kong vegetables. Variety of textures, sorted.

Yentafo Convent

36/3 Convent Road
Silom
Bangkok 10500
Thailand

Telephone: 02 235 0386
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sat: 7:00am to 3:30pm

Tonkatsu Maisen, Watthana

Paul
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0
Tonkatsu Maisen, Watthana

BANGKOK | Tonkatsu Maisen, one of Japan’s best places to eat tonkatsu, has several outlets in Bangkok. Purveyors of tonkatsu since 1965, Maisen is known for its high quality ingredients and perfectly balanced flavours.

The menu in Bangkok broadly follows the Japanese menu. All of the signature items are here, the main difference being that the kurobuta pork is sourced locally, rather than from Kagoshima, Japan.

Choose your cut of meat (pork loin, pork tenderloin, chicken) and it comes out with a wonderfully buttery, crispy coating. Katsu sets are served with Maisen’’’s special tonkatsu sauce, a bowl of rice, shredded cabbage, Tonjiru (pork miso soup), and pickles.

If it’s just a snack you’re after, grab a sando to go. There’s chicken, pork, and shrimp to choose from.

Tonkatsu Maisen (Central Embassy)

1031 Phloen Chit Road
Khwaeng Pathum Wan, Pathum Wan
Bangkok 10330
Thailand

Telephone: 02 160 5622
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 10:00am to 9:00pm

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