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So You Want To Travel – Where To Begin

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Planning A Big Trip

Deciding that you want to travel is easy, and most of us get to that point relatively quickly!  The difficulty comes in determining what exactly to do next.  Over the coming weeks, I will be posting a series of travel tips aimed at helping you when planning a big trip.

When you read through the blogs of other travellers, it soon becomes apparent that there is no rule in relation to the question of “where to begin”.  Everyone has different circumstances, reasons for travelling, and their own story.  The one consistent theme is that everyone had a plan.  I’m not talking about a plan that requires a novel’s worth of detail and strict adherence; I’m talking about a focus to build your travels around.

Nate from Yomadic had a plan to travel the world indefinitely, and spent a good year setting himself up to be able to do this.  Where he has travelled, how long he has spent in each city, what he has done in each city, and where he is going next are all very fluid things, however the initial plan to travel the world indefinitely provided the focus needed to get things started.

Earl from Wandering Earl decided to travel around South East Asia for 3 months after graduation.  After the 3 months had passed, Earl had well and truly caught the travel bug and has been travelling continuously for over 12 years!  The life that Earl lives now is a life that he couldn’t have imagined when he first left the USA for South East Asia, however it was that initial 3 month plan that gave him a focus – something manageable to kick-start things.

As for myself, I’d known that I’d wanted to explore the world beyond the confines of my hometown Perth since the 7th grade.  As I reached my university years, a solid plan to move to the UK after I graduated from law school developed.  I would live and work in London and use the UK as a base from which I could explore Europe.  Perhaps “Australian moves to London to work and travel around Europe” isn’t the most unique of stories, but it is my story.  For several years, I worked full time and studied full time, knowing that I had this goal in mind.  2 months after graduation, and one way ticket in hand, I was on a plane to London.

The 3 stories above are all different.  From a plan to go to South East Asia for 3 months, to a plan to move to London and see what happened next, to a plan to indefinitely travel, the one common theme is that there was a plan.  The plans were all flexible, and all lead onto things that were not planned at all.  What having a plan does is to provide you with a focus.  It makes your dream tangible, gives you something that you can work towards, and is the first step towards making things happen.

Hungry? Don’t Fall For The Tourist Traps!

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Throughout my travels, one thing that I have noticed is the number of people who choose to eat at sub-par establishments.  All over the world, there are countless cafes and restaurants located in prime tourist areas.  While you can, indeed, find some gems in these areas, more often than not the places that you’ll find in these areas serve food that is passable at best, and most certainly overpriced for what it is – a typical tourist trap restaurant.

tourist trap restaurant

Why do people continue to eat at these places then?  The answer is simple – location.  Foreign city, hungry, there’s food, done.  Even the most seasoned of travellers, and those who know all the best places to eat in their home towns  can fall into this trap – it’s very easy to do.  The thing is, with just the smallest amount of research, you’ll find that there will always almost be something amazing very nearby – something that isn’t aimed at tourists and isn’t overpriced.

A false assumption that a lot of people make in relation to food, not just when they travel but in general, is that anywhere good must be expensive, and that the better the food is, the more expensive it must be.  The reality, in fact, could not be further from the truth.  More often than not, the good stuff will actually cost you less than the tourist traps!  Let me give you one example to illustrate this point.

In London, all the tourist guides talk about having a curry in Brick Lane.  Brick Lane is a great area to walk through, full of character and life, and there are some great markets, Rough Trade East (one of my favourite record stores), and some great bars and food places.  Brick Lane, however, is not the place to get a curry in London.  You’ll arrive there and be greeted with the sight and sounds of individuals standing at the front of restaurants, inviting you to come in and have a feed.  The windows of these establishments are stickered with claims of the numerous awards and accolades that their food has received over the years.  “Come in”, “have something to eat”, “very tasty” and the ubiquitous “I’ll give you a special price”.  Everyone trying to encourage you to come in for a meal will make you offers – “30% off your meal”, ‘40% off”, “50% off and drinks are free!”

tourist trap restaurant

It all sounds great, and in you.  Will you have a good time?  Sure.  No matter where you are, as long as the food isn’t absolutely terrible and the company is good, you’ll enjoy yourself.  The fact of the matter is however, that you’ll walk out of the establishment having eaten a very ordinary curry and, despite the “deal” that you got; you will have still paid too much for what you ate.

tourist trap restaurant

Just around the corner from Brick Lane, not more than a 10 minute walk away, on the other side of Whitechapel Road, are 3 of the best curry houses in London.  Tayyabs, Lahore Kebab House, and Needoo Grill.  They are separated from their Brick Lane counterparts by a few key things:

  1. There is nobody standing out the front trying to entice you to enter – they know their food is great and have a steady stream of customers every night.
  2. The price is fixed – despite the lack of “special prices for you”, a full price meal at any one of these three establishments will cost you less than a “special discount” meal anywhere on Brick Lane.
  3. The menus are focused – These establishments don’t offer every combination of every sub-continental dish imaginable under the sun.  They offer a great range of curries and grilled meats.  Very authentic, and done to perfection.
  4. The clientele is local – These places aren’t full of tourists.  There are some tourists who have discovered them yes, but mostly the clientele is local, including many Indians and Pakistanis.  They know what’s good, and come here time and time again for the good stuff.

It is plain to see then, with just a little bit of research, you can get an amazing meal, of high quality, in a place aimed at locals, for cheaper than anything you’d find in a touristy area.  Every single city that I have visited has had examples like this, and more often than not these places are only a short stroll from the tourist spots.

If you look at the “food” category in the sidebar of this website, you can find links to some of the places I’ve eaten at and written about.  Over the coming months, I will be looking to supplement my travel photo updates with posts containing food recommendations.  I believe in integrity and will only write about places that I have eaten at myself, or have heard good things about from trusted, reliable sources (I.e. friends who are as passionate about good food as I am).  I will state which is the case each and every time.

In the current case, I have eaten at all 3 of the curry houses discussed, and my preference, in order, is:

Tayyabs:                         83-89 Fieldgate St  London E1 1JU, United Kingdom

Tayyabs on Urbanspoon

Lahore Kebab House:   2-10 Umberston St  London, Greater London E1 1PY, United Kingdom

Lahore Kebab House on Urbanspoon

Needoo Grill:                 87 New Rd  London E1 1HH, United Kingdom

Needoo Grill on Urbanspoon

12 Dark Hours In Zagreb, Croatia

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My adventure started with a wet, cold and windy arrival late at night in Zagreb Croatia in July 2011. On the way into the city centre from the airport, we received a crash course on outer Zagreb apartment and retail projects from a very friendly, enthusiastic taxi driver. My fiancée’s family on her grandmother’s side is from Split, and we were heading there the next morning.

Unlike the side of Croatia that we were to see over the next week, full of beaches, Mediterranean influences and the like, Zagreb is very much a city that is influenced by its location, with many things that reminded me of earlier travels in Hungary and Austria.

Before reaching the Old City, on the drive in from the airport, evidence of post World War communist era architecture was evident everywhere.  Contrasting with this, were modern developments and buildings.  It looked fascinating and I really wanted to explore.

The city is very cultural and full of museums and, as fellow travel blogger and friend Nate pointed out in his recent post on the city, they have a very popular museums night that provides free entry to all. Brilliant!

Unfortunately I was completely unprepared, and the rain really was quite intense, hence the lack of photos and, compared to normal the sub-par quality. Rest assured though, in just those few hours in the city that night, I discovered a place that absolutely intrigued me.

Zagreb, I will be back.

Zagreb Croatia

Zagreb Croatia

Zagreb Croatia

Zagreb Croatia

Zagreb Croatia

Zagreb Croatia

The wet weather really added an extra level of character to the city on the night.  Despite it being late, dark, cold and wet – there were still quite a large number out and about, and more than enough choices available when we decided to get something to eat.

Zagreb Croatia

Zagreb Croatia

Zagreb Croatia

Zagreb Croatia

Zagreb Croatia

Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp

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There’s really not much that I can say about Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp that hasn’t been said before. From early 1942 to late 1944, 1.3 million people (90% of whom were Jews) were killed here.

Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp is an absolutely shocking place, and you can’t help but be affected by it. One sees documentaries and reads about the things that happened here, but when you’re actually walking through it, reading about some of the terrible things that occurred in the very room/s that you’re standing in, it’s just overwhelming.

One room that actually made me cry was full of wall to floor display cabinets of the belongings of prisoners that were taken from them when they arrived. Each cabinet is themed, and one of them is just full of children’s toys, dolls and children’s clothes.

Everybody should visit this place once in their lives. It certainly makes you question things, and can change your perspective on life. It’s hard to believe that despite the fact that this sort of this is in our past, us human beings still persist on engaging in conflicts and inflicting horrors on other people today.  I visited in July 2010.

I was wondering whether or not I should do a blog update about this concentration camp, and ultimately decided yes because I think as the events of World War II fade ever more into the past, it can become easy for people to forget about what happened, or not attribute as much importance to it. People must never forget.

If just one person reads through this and stops to think about things, perhaps think about the armed conflicts going on in the world today with a different perspective, then this entry has served its purpose.

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

auschwitz-birkenau concentration camp oswiecim poland

One thing that has always stuck in my mind has been the self reflection from the Germans about how this could have happened, and it’s not a question that is easily answerable, even today.  It was a number of small developments that cumulated with what happened.  This is exactly why today, when people start preaching hate and intolerance, we cannot give them the time of day – it all begins with one person and a few words.

Respect other people. Love one another. Never forget.

Krakow: Castles & Hipster Wonderlands

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On my second day in Krakow, I visited Wawel Castle, before walking over to the old Jewish quarter.

Wawel Castle was built in the 13th century and over the following centuries, was expanded upon. The original building is Gothic in style. It has been used for a variety of purposes, including a royal palace, army stronghold, presidential residence, and today a national museum, housing amongst other things the crown treasury and armoury.

krakow jewish quarter wawel castle poland

krakow jewish quarter wawel castle poland

Pope John Paul II was born near Krakow and, before becoming the pope, served as the Archbishop of Krakow.

krakow jewish quarter wawel castle poland

krakow jewish quarter wawel castle poland

krakow jewish quarter wawel castle poland

krakow jewish quarter wawel castle poland

krakow jewish quarter wawel castle poland

krakow jewish quarter wawel castle poland

The old Jewish quarter of Krakow, in an area called Kazimirez, is very historical. It has been a centre of Jewish culture in Krakow since 1495. During World War II, the Nazis set up a ghetto in the area and most of the Jewish population were sent to the ghetto, before being moved to concentration camps. Director Roman Polanski grew up here and is one of the survivors of the ghetto.

Of course, the world keeps turning and today, the area is a vibrant area popular with artists and creative types, full of trendy bars and cafes. Dotted throughout the area are residences and a few markets too. This was probably my favourite part of Krakow. A fascinating blend of the old and new.

There’s lots of street art in the Jewish Quarter, as well as an appropriation of lots of communist era paraphernalia for bars going for an “ironic communist chic” thing.

The fresh produce on sale at this outdoor market was brilliant.  Beautiful fruit and vegetables of the highest quality.

Krakow: Historical Old Town

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Thinking of how to begin this blog entry, the common rhetorical question “Where does the time go?” is very appropriate. Going to the “for blog” folder on my computer, which contains all of the photos that I intend to, but have yet to sort through and put onto my blog, I decided it was time to put up my Krakow photos.

I then paused for a moment as I realised that had been two and a half years since I had actually visited the city.

“Two and a half years?”

“Has it really been that long?”

“Surely not, it seems so much more recent and vivid in my mind!”

The above all thoughts that inevitably lead to that question that we all ask ourselves on a relatively frequent basis – “Where does the time go?”.

A thought that has sprung to my mind just this moment, as I write, is that of how a blog update changes depending on when it is written. We have all encountered examples of situations where somebody is telling a story, and the story they tell is different than the story you remember. As time passes by, fact and fiction, actual recollection and supposed recollection become more and more blurred. I wonder now, how the words that I write, and the photos that I’ve posted versus the ones that I chose to not include in this blog update, have been affected by the passage of time. How will this blog update differ from the blog update that it would have been had I posted it shortly after the visit to Krakow?

Anyway, I’ve given my “over-thinking” self more than enough to ponder for the next few hours. For now, onto what you, the reader is actually concerned with!

The focus of this update is Krakow’s Old Town, one of the first place to be included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. There has been a city in this location for a long time, but the current Medieval town dates back to 1257, with plenty of Renaissance and Baroque architecture subsequently added for good measure.

Below are the ubiquitous Pierogi. Dumplings of unleavened dough, filled, boiled and then generally baked or fried. There’s nothing particularly unique about Pierogi, which share much in common with the dumplings found throughout Asia and Europe, however it is the variety of fillings – sweet and savoury, which make them a great, tasty Polish dish.

I met up with a friend and she took me to this great little place that specialised in Pierogi. It was one of the first things I did in Krakow.

I cannot remember what the soup was, and the drink was some kind of hot, pear infused beverage.

krakow old town poland

Europe and its delis. No matter where I travel in Europe, I love popping into stores like this and seeing what local specialities are on offer.

krakow old town poland

krakow old town poland

krakow old town poland

krakow old town poland

krakow old town poland

krakow old town poland

krakow old town poland

krakow old town poland

krakow old town poland

krakow old town poland

krakow old town poland

krakow old town poland

There’s lots to see in the Old Town, and the city caters well for tourists. A very easy city to find your way around.

This was a very fun trip, as I met up with a friend that I hadn’t seen for a few years, plus a few other new friends.

I would like to dedicate this blog update to my friend Tim who was there, and tragically died last year, the innocent victim of a road accident. You can travel the world, and experience so much, then you lose your life on a standard day in your hometown, in circumstances completely outside of your control.

If the tragedy can teach us anything, it is to reiterate the message that I try to convey in my blogging, that life is too short to spend it worrying and thinking “what if”. Follow your dreams, get out there, travel, expose yourself to new experiences, meet new people, discover new cultures.

I understand that there are good reasons as to why people might not be able to travel as extensively as I have, but don’t let that stop you. Rediscover your hometown. Catch the train to a suburb of borough that you haven’t been to before, have a walk through that part of the city that you’ve never had a reason to walk through, go to an immigrant run restaurant and eat something different. No matter what your circumstances are, there’s always scope to expand your horizons.

Don’t be scared, don’t give yourself reasons not to do it.

The world is waiting for you.

Tallinn: Goodbye Soviets, Hello Scandanavia

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After spending the first day in Tallinn exploring the old town, we had planned to go to Helsinki for a day. Unfortunately the weather was terrible and the ferry had been cancelled.

We instead decided to explore the city outside of the old town, and had a great time doing so. The extra day of exploration really allowed us to get a look at the more recent influences in Tallinn, being the Soviet influences and the more modern, Scandinavian influences. Modern Estonia is certainly positioning itself to be seen as a part of Scandinavia as far as I could tell, and they seemed to be doing a good job of it. It’s a great, modern, high-tech, design conscious place.

tallinn modern architecture

tallinn modern architecture

tallinn modern architecture

Upon learning that our ferry to Helsinki had been cancelled, we decided to walk to the Defence Forces Cemetery of Tallinn. Tallinn is a very small town, so after less than 2 hours (about 3km walk) we’d reached the Cemetery and were almost at the airport!

tallinn modern architecture

tallinn modern architecture

tallinn modern architecture

tallinn modern architecture

These really cool colour changing Christmas decorations were hanging on trees all over the city centre.

tallinn modern architecture

I was really struck by “something” about this building. I just found it fascinating.

tallinn modern architecture

tallinn modern architecture

Lots of council blocks in this part of town, just outside of the Cemetery (which is right next to an operating military base).

tallinn modern architecture

A sign of the times. EU funded high speed rail being built.

The “Bronze Soldier of Tallinn” was originally built by the Soviets in a park in the city centre and called “Monument to the Liberators of Tallinn”. There has always been a lot of controversy around it, and since the fall of the USSR, it was trashed several times. In 2007 the government decided to rename it and move it to its current location.

Tallinn: Medieval Christmas Wonderland

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Tallinn was a city that I’d wanted to visit for a while, and finally I managed to get over there only 2 weeks before returning to Australia. I was also supposed to go to Helsinki for a day but there was a storm and the ferry was cancelled.

Tallinn is a very interesting city, and although looking back on these photos it’s not really reflected, it’s a city that very clearly, to me, had three stages visible. The first is the medieval old town, built from the 13th to 16th centuries. It’s one of the finest examples of a completely intact medieval town and is entirely UNESCO heritage listed.

The second stage is the Soviet stage. Brutalist architecture, huge council estates, lots of concrete.

The third is the modern stage. Glass skyscrapers, houses and installations that wouldn’t look out of place in Scandanavia – all very cutting edge. In fact one of the nick names for Tallinn is the “Eastern European Tiger” – the Singapore of Eastern Europe.

All of this history means that Tallinn is a very interesting city to explore. We were hoping to see snow, as the old town is meant to be amazingly beautiful when it is covered in snow but unfortunately the temperatures were (relatively) mild. Nonetheless we still had heaps of fun, and I got to try ice skating for the first time in my life. One of the locals who was an instructor offered to help us out and give us some tips – on my first attempt at a pirouette, he told me that I “looked like Robocop”. Overall though, I didn’t suck at it which, given my general lack of coordination when playing sports, was a surprise to me!

On this first update, I’ll be focusing primarily on the old town.

Paratei Prison was opened as a sea fortress in 1840, and used as a prison from 1919 until 2004. It has a reputation as being a place where the Soviets didn’t treat dissidents to well at all. I really wanted to check it out, but unfortunately it was closed to visitors during the winter. Still, the vibe around the area was foreboding and dreary to say the least.

tallinn medieval old town

tallinn medieval old town

tallinn medieval old town

tallinn medieval old town

Just up from the prison is the old town. Absolutely beautiful and although full of tourist traps, the architecture, streets etc are completely authentic.

tallinn medieval old town

tallinn medieval old town

tallinn medieval old town

tallinn medieval old town

tallinn medieval old town

The Tallinn Christmas market. Supposedly this is the exact spot where the modern idea of a Christmas Tree was born. The markets are pretty cool, and filled with food and trinkets. It was great to warm up the body with some Glogg (mulled wine with almond and sultanas).

Click here to read Part 2 of my Tallinn adventure, which focuses outside of the old town, on the Soviet and Scandinavian influences in the city.

Paris: A Day Of Food & Wine

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Inspired by the then recent 150th episode of No Reservations, I decided to head down to Paris to try some of the places that Anthony Bourdain had visited.

Yes, once an establishment has been featured on No Reservations it does tend to experience an increase in tourists visiting it, but the fact of the matter is that Bourdain knows his stuff. Tourists or no tourists, the places he visits on No Reservations more often than not are worth a visit.

…and yes I am well aware of the irony that I was, in fact, a tourist.

Le Comptoir de Realis
9 carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006

Le Comptoir de Realis is a small 20 seat bistro run by chef Yves Camdeborde. At one stage it was one of the hardest restaurants to get a booking for in Paris during weeknights. Both times I have been, it has been extremely busy. The first time (this trip), I was lucky enough to walk straight in to a table, probably owing to the fact that it was a weekday lunch (there is a no bookings policy for lunch and on weekends for dinner). A month later I was back on a Saturday evening and spent just over an hour standing on the sidewalk waiting for a table. It was every bit worth the wait – the couple behind us that decided to walk away made the wrong choice. The food is amazing, the service excellent, the ambiance chilled out and fun, and the price very much in the mid range – not a fancy, expensive venue at all.

Classic French dishes, done well – as simple as that.

Le Comptoir de Realis. paris restaurants food and wine

Le Comptoir de Realis. paris restaurants food and wine

One of the things that I can no longer get now that I’m back in Australia is proper Foie Gras. I miss it. A lot.

Le Comptoir de Realis. paris restaurants food and wine

Escargot

Le Comptoir de Realis. paris restaurants food and wine

Croque-Monsieur (aka grilled cheese and ham sandwich)

Le Comptoir de Realis. paris restaurants food and wine

For the life of me I cannot remember what exactly this was. Some sort of pie.

Le Comptoir de Realis. paris restaurants food and wine

Can’t remember what this was either, but it was amazing.

Le Comptoir de Realis. paris restaurants food and wine

Creme caramel.

Le Comptoir de Realis. paris restaurants food and wine

Tarte tartin.

Le Comptoir de Realis. paris restaurants food and wine

paris restaurants food and wine

Some street artist had put these up in random spots all over Paris. I noticed one a few years back, and by this trip the artist had expanded his coverage and there were lots more hidden all over the city.

paris restaurants food and wine

Le Creperie de Josselin
67 Rue du Montparnasse 75014 Paris, France

I’m sure I’ve mentioned this place before, and every time I’ve been to Paris I have been here (except for the time I went in August which, as I mentioned, involved so many great places in the city being closed).

One of my favourite ciders. If anyone knows where I can find it in Australia, I’d be much obliged!

Les Cocottes
135 Rue Saint-Dominique 75007 Paris, France

Les Cocottes is a well known venue by Michelin Starred chef Christian Constant. After a long career working in very high end fine dining establishments, Constant decided that he wanted to open a place that served French “comfort food” in a chilled environment. Les Cocottes was the result, and looks more like the kind of place you’d expect to find in New York or Melbourne.

The food was great, the service was excellent and, again, it was a very fun place to eat. While central, it’s hidden on a side street and so it’s not touristy – you have to know it’s here and be looking for it to find it and as a result it’s a very interesting mix of local and foreigners and there are lots of interesting conversations to be had with strangers. My pick of the bunch.

More of the classic Foie Gras on toast.

Crab salad.

Pigs trotters with something inside. This was one of my favourite dishes.

Langoustine ravioli. This was absolutely divine.

A veal pasta dish if I remember correctly.

Waffles + salted caramel sauce. I believe OMG is the correct term.

Seasonal fruit salad.

Chef Constant’s signature chocolate tart. How could I say no?

It might be a Paris cliché, but this amazing tower never ceases to amaze me. It’s a beautiful piece of engineering.

Paris: Dining Via The Metro

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On the second day of this trip to Paris it was business as usual.  Continuing where we left off from the previous day there was more wandering the streets, taking in the vibe, eating and relaxing to be done.

The line 14 platforms at Pyramides Metro station are more modern than many of the others you see in the city, and were opened in 1998.

One of the many things that I love about Paris is that despite the fact that it truly is one of the most beautiful cities in the world, it still has a grittiness to it as well.  I’ll have do do a post sometime that collects all of the street art photos that I’ve taken in Paris over the course of several trips.  There is a lot of street art in Paris, and this is just one example of it.

For the first time in my life I finally tried escargot. Texturally it reminded me of calamari, taste wise it was all about the garlic butter.

Escargot. paris restaurants food and wine

Fish. paris restaurants food and wineish.

paris restaurants food and wine

paris restaurants food and wine

Paris takes on a magical vibe by night.  It really does feel like you are walking through a cliché   The beauty of the city, and the reflection of the lights on the different surfaces that they bounce of creates something amazing, and you cannot help but feel great.

There is a lot of variety between the different Metro stations in Paris.  Pont-Neuf looks nothing like Pyramides.

Wine, bread and butter.  So simple and so great.

paris restaurants food and wine

Foie Gras and toast.  Controversial it may be, but there’s no doubting that foie gras, done right, offers the diner a luxurious taste sensation like no other.

Foie Gras. paris restaurants food and wine

Roast lamb and sliced potatoes, almost like chips.

paris restaurants food and wine

Roast beef on French onion soup.  If you’ve never had proper French onion soup before, you must try it sometime.  The flavour is completely amazing and not at all similar to what passes off as “French onion” flavour outside of France.

paris restaurants food and wine