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Paris In August: Something Is… Different.

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Ah Paris. What’s not to say about this city that I haven’t already said? It’s one of my favourite cities in the world, and I went there several times while I was living in London. One of the things I miss most about living in London is that “popping down to Paris for the weekend” is neither the quick nor cheap options as it once was for me.

By this stage, I had already seen Paris in the winter an autumn, so it was interesting to see the city in the summer. I must say, despite the fact that Paris was as beautiful as ever, I would highly recommend that if you do intend to visit Paris, that you do not go during August. The French have their national holidays in August, and the whole of France goes on holiday. At first when I read about this, I thought that perhaps things were a bit exaggerated. Exaggerated though things were not. A lot of boutiques and food places – from obscure independent stores to world famous Michelin starred restaurants are closed for the entire month!

Additionally, the city is absolutely overrun with tourists, and a lot of the places that stay open are the places that cater to tourists. It was as if I was playing “spot the Parisian”, and the whole vibe of the city was very different. While still an amazing city, Paris in August just wasn’t quite right – it certainly loses some of its charm and seems somewhat tacky with the only Parisians remaining being the ones who are there to make money from the tourist season.

I was there again in September, and can confirm that once the tourists had left and the Parisians had returned to daily life, normality was restored.

Most of the time that I’ve gone to Paris I’ve stayed in a great little hotel called Grand Hotel Nouvel Opéra. The rooms are shoebox sized, and it’s a touch away from the main spots that one would tend to visit on a holiday (no more than a 15 minute Metro trip away though), however it is cheap (for Paris), the staff are friendly, it’s got free Wi-Fi and there are lots of local food gems to be found that cater to locals, rather than tourists that are also very well priced.

When staying there, Voltaire was my local Metro station.

paris in august

paris in august

paris in august

paris in august

paris in august

paris in august

paris in august

paris in august

First meal of the trip was a fresh seafood lunch at Le Bistrot du Dôme. Simple, fresh, exquisite.

Le Bistrot du Dome. paris in august

Le Bistrot du Dome. paris in august

Le Bistrot du Dome. paris in august

Le Bistrot du Dome. paris in august

As I’ve stated before, the Jardin du Luxembourg, or the Luxembourg Gardens, is one of my favourite parks in the world. I never fail to visit and chill out in these beautiful gardens when in Paris.

This was quite humorous People are not allowed to sit on this grass, and there are police/guards strolling about the gardens to keep an eye on things. Clearly the penalties for ignoring the rules are not too serious as you’d see many people relaxing on the grass. A guard would come past, and tell everyone to get off and slowly, everyone would move away until nobody was on the grass. The guard would walk away, and within a few minutes it was full of people again. A little while later a guard would come past and… you get the picture!

Wandering around Saint-Germain-des-Prés, one of my favourite parts of Paris, full of great places to eat (like most of the city admittedly) and little boutiques and the like. The whole area has a really great vibe about it.

Avoiding the huge queues of tourists at the Musée du Louvre, which I had already been to last year, and instead choosing the option of chilling out in the sun in the gardens.

Laduree. Famous for inventing the macaron and for its amazing cakes and desserts. While absolutely amazing, don’t get me wrong, I think that the past macarons in Paris are to be had at one of Pierre Herme’s boutiques.

Ouzoud Falls: Majestic Grand Atlas Waterfall

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The last full day in Morocco, and we decided to take a trip out to the Ouzoud Falls. They are located in the Grand Atlas village of Tanaghmeilt, and the name Ouzoud comes from the Berber word for olive, as olive trees surround the area.

As was the case for each of the day trips out of Marrakech, we were greeted with beautiful scenery, that was quite different to what we had seen before in the country. It was one of those days where you stop and think that maybe we try to complicate life too much, and perhaps things would be simpler if we quit the rat race and just relaxed in the countryside and swam in the lakes. A naive and fleeting thought perhaps, but needless to say the fact that this area makes one contemplate such things is all that needs to be said about how beautiful and serene it is.

ouzoud falls morocco

ouzoud falls morocco

ouzoud falls morocco

ouzoud falls morocco

The waterfalls are 110 metres high (and supposedly used to be much higher) and you start about mid way and work your way up to the top slowly before coming back down.

ouzoud falls morocco

ouzoud falls morocco

ouzoud falls morocco

ouzoud falls morocco

ouzoud falls morocco

ouzoud falls morocco

Time for a much needed swim! The force coming from that little section of the waterfall was surprisingly strong when I tried to swim towards it.

Eating lunch surrounded by monkey, and a few cats and chickens.

This rainbow was absolutely stunning in real life.

Fight!

I’m sorry, hug!

Marrakech: The Majorelle Garden

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The Majorelle Garden (Jardin du Majorelle) is a beautiful landscaped botanical garden in Marrakech that was designed by French artist Jaques Majorelle in the 1920s and 1930s.

Over the years, the garden had become quite run down and in 1980, Yves St Laurent and Pierre Bergé bought the gardens and restored them.  Being frequent visitors to the garden over the years, both new owners wanted to ensure that the gardens were kept as close as possible to the original design, and that they remained open to the public.

The Majorelle Garden is a beautiful place to relax and reflect, and provides a welcome reprieve from the oppressive heat outside.

majorelle garden

majorelle garden

A plaque dedicated to Yves St Laurent.  When he died in 2008, his ashes were scattered throughout the Majorelle Garden.

majorelle garden

I absolutely love the colours used and could imagine myself having a small garden, or even just a balcony, decorated and painted in a similar style one day.

Jaques Majorelle’s former studio is now home to a Museum of Islamic Art. The museum showcases the personal art collections of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, including Islamic tapestries, textiles, ceramics, jewellery  and other Islamic crafts. One of the galleries displays a permanent exhibition of the paintings of Jacques Majorelle.

The Majorelle Garden hosts more than 15 bird species that are endemic to North Africa. It has many fountains, and a notable collection of cacti.

The shade of bold cobalt blue which is used extensively in the garden and its buildings and is named after Jaques Majorelle – bleu Majorelle.

Marrakech: The New Town Of Gueliz

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Beyond the borders of the historical old town in Marrakech is the modern “new town” of Gueliz.  It was designed and built by the French in the early 1900s and the French influences are obvious in stark difference in the design of the area. The streets are planned, with wide boulevards connected by roundabouts just like in Paris, and low rise apartment buildings, beautiful parks and modern shops full of international brands all over.

When you walk through the old city, it feels like you have stepped into another word, however in the new town, it is clear that Marrakech is very much a modern city.

Arsat Moulay Abdeslam Cyber Park is an eight-hectare royal garden dating from about 1700 that now offers, along with beautiful park lands and gardens, free WiFi.

gueliz marrakech morocco

gueliz marrakech morocco

gueliz marrakech morocco

gueliz marrakech morocco

The fact that I found this sign photo-worthy is a sure sign of immaturity on my behalf.

gueliz marrakech morocco

gueliz marrakech morocco

Huge billboards, western brands, and modern shopping malls show a completely different side of life in Marrakech.

The streets are beautiful, with wide footpaths and lots of well maintained local fauna.

Heading back to the old town, the defences at the edge are a sight to behold.

Essaouira: Goodbye Desert, Hello Ocean

After spending the past few days in landlocked cities, we decided to head out to Essaouira, which is one of the coastal towns in Morocco.

The trip there was rather uneventful, apart from the sighting of goats in trees! My friends and I had heard people mention that in Morocco, you can see goats in trees, but we weren’t really sure if it was true or not. Sure enough, on this bus ride, we would occasionally pass olive trees, which had goats in them! I’m not talking about a small amount either – there would be say, 5 or so goats in a tree itself, and a crowd of another 5 or so goats trying to climb up it. It was very surreal, but unfortunately the bus driver didn’t stop at any of them so there was no opportunity to take photos.

Essaouira itself is a very different place to the other cities that we had been to in the country. The ubiquitous orange and yellow architecture gave way to blue and white, very fitting for the coastal setting of the place.

The city has a very interesting history, and there has been some settlement there since prehistoric times. It was a very important port for a long time, facilitating trade between the country and Europeans. The modern fortified town was built during the reign of Mohammad III, and designed by a French engineer and other European experts to be a modern city in the late 1700s.

One thing that you’ll notice as a tourist is that everyone wants to sell you the “Jimi Hendrix” experience. Myths and stories are told about how Jimi Hendrix used to live in this part of the city or that part, or how the song “Castles Made of Sand” was inspired by the city, and you can ride a horse along the beach where Jimi used to do the same thing. The fact is, Jimi Hendrix went to Morocco once, on a holiday, and none of the rumours are true.

What is true is that it was a popular place for rock stars and hippies in the 1960, and several popular artists of the time did visit. Cat Stevens/Yusuf Islam was a regular. Take the stories with a grain of salt and enjoy yourself.

essaouira morocco

essaouira morocco

essaouira morocco

essaouira morocco

essaouira morocco

essaouira morocco

essaouira morocco

essaouira morocco

essaouira morocco

essaouira morocco

As with most of the cities I visited in the country, there were lots of stray cats about. Diseased? Perhaps, but this one was still extremely cute.

There are countless narrow streets full of food and assorted goods to try and explore.

Although protected to an extent by its geography, Essaouira can still get VERY windy. This part in particular was actually difficult to walk through, by virtue of both the strong winds, and the sand almost cutting into us. I’m not sure if people were living in this area. It was certainly popular for children to play in the ruins!

I was not convinced on the health benefits of eating meat that had been hanging in the heat like this. The owner of this shop started yelling at me like mad when he saw me taking a photo. I had to be stealthier in the fish market, which just smelt foul. Fish standing in the heat for hours on end is not a good thing at all.

Along this part of the coast, there were a few dodgy looking characters looking for tourists to see if they wanted “space cakes”. Alas, one has to expect this sort of thing being a westerner in a foreign country.

All in all, Essaouira had a very different vibe to what we had seen of the country so far, and was really chilled and laid back. After a few days inland, it was great to smell the ocean and get some relatively cool relief.

Melbourne Street Photography: The People & The City

I love street photography and am always looking for ways to capture the essence of what it’s like to be walking about, in amongst a particular place.

Inspired by photos I’d seen posted by my friend Nate over at the blog Yomadic, and tips that I’d read on various blogs and websites, I decided to go into the Melbourne CBD today to get out my camera for the first time since arriving back in Australia and attempted to take some street photography with a different twist than my usual. That is, to put a real focus on the people of the city.

The one tip that was repeated time and time again with my research was to get the widest fixed lens I have and to get as close as possible to the subjects. This is of course very difficult. One, because it’s quite simply hard to take a good photo of someone going about their life without them noticing, but two, is that it feels somewhat unsettling doing it. Anyway, I had to put aside my fears and just go for it. After lots of random snapping, and plenty of discarded photos of the sky and floor (with this kind of photography you don’t know what the photo will be like until you review it as there’s no time to think, frame etc.) this is what I ended up with.

I still have a long way to go, but hopefully I can get better at this sort of photography over time and incorporate it into my repertoire. I certainly think that this kind of street photography has a certain element of excitement and realness to it, and shooting in black and white (another first for me) evokes, for me, the excitement present in the photos of the early pioneers of this kind of photography like Weegee, Brassai and Cartier-Bresson.

melbourne street photography

melbourne street photography

melbourne street photography

melbourne street photography

melbourne street photography

melbourne street photography

melbourne street photography

This type of photography is new to me, and really excites me.  I’d be really happy to hear your thoughts, critiques and suggestions below.

Ait Benhaddou & The Road To Ouarzazate

Ouarzazate is home to film studios, and films such as Laurence of Arabia, The Mummy and Gladiator have been filmed there. If you were going to head on to the Sahara desert, this is the last city of note that you’d encounter and is a gateway to the Sahara.

As a destination, there wasn’t actually much to see beyond the so-so film museum (the highlight being wearing actual costumes from the film Gladiator, and getting to see some pristine condition, vintage film-making equipment), however the drive from Marrakech to Ouarzazate was amazing, and included some breathtaking scenery.

Some time into the drive, we arrived at Ait Benhaddou, which is a UNESCO heritage listed fortified Berber town. It lies in the foothills of the High Atlas mountains, along the old trade route connecting Sudan and Marrakech.

Ait Benhaddou was built using pre-Saharan construction techniques (ramming mass worked into panel brick and bull header, ordinary moulded earth, clay brick, etc.).  Although the structures here date back no further than the 17th century, research has shown that the techniques used could date as far back as the 8th century.

Most people live in a more modern town nearby now, however the old Kasbah is fascinating to walk through.

I’d never seen dried clay like this in such abundance.  It created quite an amazing effect.  The “river” consisted of nothing but a trickle of water – more of a small stream than a river.  Despite having several accessible crossing points, local children were on hand to help out tourists – for something in return of course.

We all crossed ourselves but one of my friends was unable to avoid 2 of the children.  He gave the children his newly purchased bottle of Sprite, and they seemed to be happy with the exchange.

Several films have filmed scenes at Ait Benhaddou, including The Living Daylights, The Mummy, and Gladiator.

The Bustling Medina Of Marrakech

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Morocco is by far the most “different” country that I have been to compared to what I am used to. I went during Ramadan, which as a non-Muslim was a very interesting experience. The locals would not be doing much during the days, they you would see everyone come out as night approached, clearly hungry from the day of fasting. When the time came each night, the bell would toll, and throughout speakers across the city you would hear someone praying, what exactly I could not understand. Once he was done, everything sprung to life. People started eating, vibrancy filled the streets and it completely changed.

I must say I had the upmost respect for the people doing Ramadan through this period. Every day the temperatures were soaring above 40 degrees Celsius, and, as you will see in later posts, some people were going about their normal lives during this. On several days we would be spending most of the day being driven through desert to other cities in the country, and the driver would not eat or drink a thing. I always felt guilty that I was carrying around a bottle of water, keeping myself hydrated in the intense, dry heat while these guys were working and getting through it.

The influence of the French was obvious, not most in the fact that most of the signs and people are bilingual – Arabic and French. The people were generally friendly, although there were some interesting encounters – I suppose when you travel somewhere that is poorer than many places, people are going to want a buck off you. One thing which was somewhat bemusing was the prices of drinks at stores. If you go to an actual supermarket or place outside of the old city it’s a different story but in the old city, which is tourist central, if you go to a corner store and want, say a bottle of Coke, you’ll pay more than the retail prices which is funny because the retail price is written quite plainly to see, on the bottle. It will say 20 Dirham for example on the bottle and they guy will want to charge you 25 Dirham. When you point out the discrepancy the first time it happens to you, the guy just says to you “tourist price”! Then you actually stop and think about it and realise that it’s something like GBP 20p extra that you’re paying and you don’t really care about it.

No free advice or directions in this country that’s for sure, and unfortunately you do have to watch out for scams. There are a lot of tourists in Morocco, and there are unscrupulous operators that try to trick unsuspecting passers-by. You just have to be more aware than you would in some other places – by far the majority of people are friendly and proud of their country. One of my friends and I were invited into a stall in the souk by one shopkeeper for example, and he dressed my friend in traditional Moroccan female clothing, while giving us multiple cups of mint tea (which is the big drink in Morocco) and chatting to us. After about half an hour, we left and he never pressured us to buy anything – he was just a really nice guy. So, just like anywhere, there are all kinds of people. Just be aware, and have fun 🙂

This blog post focuses of the bustling Medina (Old Town) of Marrakech.

The Koutoubia Mosque is the largest Mosque in Marrakech and was built between 1184 – 1199. It’s a beautiful structure, and come prayer time in the evenings, all of the grounds around it are surrounded by praying locals, with the prayers blasting out of the speakers around the Mosque for all in the vicinity to hear.

The old fortified city or “Medina” is what most people come to visit, and outside of this, which will be the subject of a later post of mine, is the more modern city, which was really expanded by the French and contains apartments, office towers, global brands and shops etc. It really is like two cities in one.

Jamaa el-Fnaa is the main square in Marrakech, and is relatively quiet during the day – although I put this down to both the heat and the fact that it was Ramadan. There is all kinds of stuff going on here. Fresh juice stalls, snake charmers, story tellers, dancers and the like do their thing. As night approaches, a vast number of food stalls fill the square, with continuing entertainment on the outside of it. The square is UNESCO heritage listed, for its intangible qualities:

“The spectacle of Jamaa el Fna is repeated daily and each day it is different. Everything changes – voices, sounds, gestures, the public which sees, listens, smells, tastes, touches. The oral tradition is framed by one much vaster – that we can call intangible. The Square, as a physical spaces, shelters a rich oral and intangible tradition.” – Juan Goytisolo, May 2011.

The souk in the old city is a huge market where all kinds of goods are traded. It’s a labyrinth of proper and makeshift passageways, twists and turns. Once you are in there it’s actually quite difficult to find your way out again. It truly is a maze and you find all kinds of interesting things in there. When you combine the people, the stalls, the noise, the smells and the constant stream of scooters making their way through, you get a truly unique experience. Be prepared to bargain – hard!

Finally found an exit!

The ubiquitous tagine.

Philadelphia: Chinatown & Rocky Steps

Philadelphia’s Chinatown started its life in 1871, when Cantonese immigrant Lee Fong opened a Laundry at 913 Race Street.  Over the years, Chinatown grew to contain quite a large area until the 1960s, when construction works resulted in large parts of the area being demolished to construct the Vine Street Expressway and the Pennsylvania Convention Center.

Philadelphia Rocky Steps

Philaelphia Rocky Steps Chinatown

Philaelphia Rocky Steps Chinatown

Philaelphia Rocky Steps Chinatown

Philaelphia Rocky Steps Chinatown

Walking along the Vine Street Expressway, there are several interesting buildings and more examples of the large murals that are found throughout the city.

Philaelphia Rocky Steps Chinatown

The view of the Central Business District from “behind” is quite nice.

Once you reach Fairmount Park, you turn onto the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, which is lined with flags from all of the nations of the world.  At the end of the Parkway, the 72 stone steps leading up to the Philadelphia Museum of Art come into view.

These are the steps that are commonly known by most tourists as the “Rocky Steps”. Yes, I did act like the typical tourist and run up them, before raising my arms in celebration, the Rocky theme song playing in my head.

Philadelphia Rocky Steps

Philadelphia Rocky Steps

Philadelphia Rocky Steps

Philadelphia Rocky Steps

After a very intensely packed 1 day in Philadelphia, we strolled along the bank of the Schuylkill River back to 30th Street Station, to catch the train back to New York.

Philadelphia: Old City

Philadelphia’s Old City is steeped in history.  It is the area where William Penn and the Quakers first settled. I had no idea that the city was so important in relation to the foundation of the United States, and that so many of the key events leading up to Independence occurred here.

Independence Hall is where both the Declaration of Independence and the United States Constitution were debated and adopted. A free tour is run and you get to go inside the building and are told all about what happened there, and you get to see all the rooms where everything went down. The tour is very interesting and very worthwhile.

Independence Hall. philadelphia old city

philadelphia old city

Independence Hall is just one of many buildings and monuments to be found in the UNESCO heritage listed Independence National History Park.  So many of the buildings and monuments here are of extreme importance to the founding of the USA.

The signer. philadelphia old city

philadelphia old city

philadelphia old city

philadelphia old city

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier honours the soldiers that died during the American Revolutionary War.  It was built in 1954 and features an eternal flame and a statue of George Washington gazing towards Independence Hall.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. philadelphia old city

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. philadelphia old city

The Liberty Bell Centre opened in 2003, and houses the Liberty Bell, as well as several interesting artefacts and information about the Bell and the site itself.  There was controversy when, upon performing excavations to build the Center, it was discovered that some of the site was on land where George Washington housed his slaves.  This part of the Center is marked on the pavement, and contains interpretive panels that explain the significance of what was found there.

The Liberty Bell was cast in the United Kingdom in Whitechapel, London in 1752 and originally hung from the Pennsylvania State House (which later became Independence Hall).  It cracked when first rung upon its arrival in Philadelphia, and has since become a symbol of freedom and independence in the United States.