BELGRADE | Serbian cuisine has long history. It’s developed over centuries, influenced by the Greek, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires, and neighbouring Balkan nations. Meat nd dairy feature heavily in Serbian cuisine, owing to its long pastoral history. Traditional dishes tend to be rich, developing in, and suited to, the country’s mountainous landscape and climate.
Typical delicacies include things like sarma (beef/pork mince cabbage rolls), pljeskavica (minced beef/pork patty), ćevapi (grilled skinless meat sausage), burek (layered pastry pie filled with various ingredients) and ajvar (roasted red pepper relish). Keep an eye out for my upcoming article on what to eat in Belgrade, which will focus on specific dishes.
In this Belgrade Food Guide, updated as at July 2024, I’ll tell you the places to visit if you want to experience the best food and drink in Belgrade. From casual snack spots to fine dining restaurants, there’s something for everyone in this city.
I’ve placed the tips in alphabetical order, and they’re all worth checking out. Are any of your favourites listed below? Are there any places that you think should be on my Belgrade food guide?
Belgrade Cocktail Club
One of the best places in Belgrade to grab a cocktail is Belgrade Cocktail Club. It’s a tiny, quirky space, located on the other side of an unassuming door in the heart of the city.
Owner and head bartender Kimi is a great host. You can order one of the cocktails from the ever changing menu, a classic cocktail, or simply have a chat with Kimi who will create something for you on the spot based on what you’ve told him. You’ll not only get a brilliant drink here, but a little story on the spirits and history of the cocktails you’re enjoying.
Brodic
Brodic is a riverside cafe and bar that’s been going strong for over 20 years. Housed on and in a small old boat, Brodic is a great place to relax and enjoy a drink on the water. If you’re peckish, they offer a selection of tasty pizzas, plus a few snacks.
Čaki
Čaki is a small take-away shop that specialises in charcoal grilled meats. Pljeskavica, ćevapcici, and skewers. I recommend following the lead of most customers and getting yourself a pljeskavica in a thick pita sliced in half, with assorted filings. Asking for “the usual”, gets you raw onions, kajmak, and lettuce, along with a roasted red pepper.
Ćevap kod Dekija
Ćevapi, the famed grilled skinless sausage of the Balkans, are a typical street food throughout the Balkans. Regional variations are abundant, mainly amounting to differences in meat content and spices. In Serbia, ćevapi really became popular around the 1860. Most versions contain beef mince, but Serbian ćevapi (or ćevapčići as they’re often called here) can contain beef, lamb, pork, or any combination of the three.
You’ll find some of the best ćevapi in Belgrade at Ćevap kod Dekija. The most popular option is the classic. A serve of 5 or 10 of their smoky grilled ćevapi inside house made lepinja (flatbread) with diced onion. Be sure to grab a serve of their spicy ajvar to go with each bite.
Restoran Čačanin
No Belgrade food guide is complete without a place to find traditional Serbian food, and Restoran Čačanin is one of my favourites. It’s the kind of place that you find casual catch-ups and multi generation family get togethers happening. It’s been around forever, focusing on traditional Serbian dishes done right, with a focus on regional Čačak-style cooking.
Ingredients are quality, and servings are large. You’ll find all of the classics here. Starters like kajmak, cheese, pickled veg, and smallgoods, an array of salads, and larger plates.
It’s located on the outskirts of the city, a short bus ride or taxi from the centre, and well worth the journey.
D59B
There are several spots where you can get a great cup of coffee in Belgrade that are a cut above the rest. D59B is a small, independent coffee shop selling a full array of espresso and filter based coffees. Beans ethically sourced from some of the world’s top coffee farms and roasted on site.
Enjoying your coffee in the little alfresco area at the front of the spot is a great way to pass some time, and observe daily life in Belgrade play out.
Dogma Brewery
Housed in an old Belgrade sugar factory, Dogma Brewery is a great place to visit if you’re into craft beer. They have an extensive selection of beers on tap and in bottles, from sessionable pale ales, refreshing sours, hoppy double IPAs, and barrel aged stouts.
If the weather is good, grab a seat in the large outdoor area where you can also find street art created by local artists. To eat, its a selection of American influenced things like burgers and wings, including a few with a some Serbian influences.
Restoran Enso
If it’s fine dining that you’re after, Restoran Enso is a great place to visit. The food here is contemporary and exciting, blending French technique and culinary traditions with seasonal Serbian produce and flavours.
Head chef Nedeljko Jerković doesn’t restrict himself either. You’ll find flourishes from across the globe at Enso, providing a different take on what Serbian food can be about.
Franš
Franš was opened in 1982 by restaurateur Nikola Dimitrijević, his father Naum, and brother Dimitrije. They opened the restaurant in an unusual spot, an unused but large space beneath a highway, nestled amongst rail and tram tracks.
Today, Franš is still family-run, and still one of the most atmospheric dining spots in Belgrade. The menu is extensive, with an assortment of local dishes, and dishes inspired by global dining trends. At its core though, and the reason you should come here a a visitor, are it’s top quality versions of classic and popular Serbian dishes.
Mains include things like top quality meats grilled over charcoal, perfectly crumbed veal and pork escalope, and Serbian classics like pljeskavica, ćevapčići, and mućkalica. Veal head with tripe is a tender, flavoursome delight that you must order.
To drink, it’s an extensive selection of international wines, including many top quality regional drops.
Homa
Fine dining restaurant Homa is one of Belgrade’s most creative restaurants. Head chef Filip Ćirić and the team are constantly pushing the boundaries of dining in Belgrade, showcasing local produce in unique and wonderful ways. Think burek with black truffles, celery cream, roasted hazelnuts, and scrambled eggs; and Parmesan-flavoured ice cream with a salad of compressed strawberries, peppercorn, pickled cucumber and lemon dressing.
Iva New Balkan Cuisine
Iva New Balkan Cuisine was opened in 2016 by chef Vanja Puskar to showcase regional Balkan cuisine and local ingredients in a contemporary way.
The restaurant is open from breakfast through dinner, and showcases top quality ingredients sourced from the region’s small, independent suppliers. Expect things like a vegetarian take on the meat patty classic, pljeskavica; oozy melted farm cheese with garlic on bread; and a hearty, umami rich ox tail and vegetable pie.
To drink, it’s a selection of carefully sourced wines from some of the region’s most exciting independent producers, local craft beer, and spirits.
Also worth a visit if it’s more conveniently located for you is Tisa New Balkan Cuisine. It’s a similar offering to Isa, but set over three levels in a larger, more refined space.
JaM
One unfortunately unmistakable aspect of dining in Serbia is that smoking is still permitted indoors at most restaurants. JaM is one of the few that is non-smoking indoors, which for many people moves it high up the list of restaurants to visit.
It’s a fine dining restaurant, where chef Milan Jovanovic and his team prepare a variety of Mediterranean and European dishes. Milan draws influence from his time working in top kitchens across Europe, to create a variety of tasty dishes.
Laboratorija Kafe
Laboratorija Kafe cafe feels like an experimental lab, in the neighbourhood of Novi Belgrade. It’s a great place to enjoy not just great coffee, but alternative lattes, creative coffee-based drinks, and smoothies.
Organski Podrum
If want to discover the best and most interesting Serbian wines around, Organski Podrum is a must. The focus is on organic and minimal interventions wines, sourced from small, independent producers.
There are over 100 labels on offer, spanning all kinds of varietals. Wines are predominantly local, but there’s also interesting wines from nearby regions, and further abroad.
Pekara Kališ
Pekara Kališ is an unassuming local’s bakery (pekara means bakery in Serbian) known for its quality baked goods. Visit for their popular burek, along with other sweet and savoury treats. There’s no space to eat inside, but there’s a little park with a few park benches that you can sit on and enjoy your food, across the road.
Pekara Trpković
Pekara Trpković is a family run bakery that’s been baking some of Belgrade’s best burek since 1908. They have three locations today, all of which are have lines of locals eager for the good stuff every day.
The original and most central location is in Belgrade’s Slavija neighbourhood. There’s a lot to like here, but the burek is a must try. Wonderful taste and texture, a generous filling to pastry ratio, and the use of cooking different fats depending on the filling set it apart.
The classic minced meat filling is a must-order, as is the white cheese version.
Restoran Proleće
If Restoran Čačanin is too far out of the centre of town for you, another great option for traditional Serbian food is Restoran Proleće. Located in the centre of Belgrade, Proleće has been feeding hungry locals the classics since 1950. They have a great selection of traditional Serbian dishes, made using family recipes and the best quality local produce.
Salon 1905
If you want to enjoy a meal in one of Belgrade’s grandest dining spaces, check out fine dining restaurant Salon 1905. The restaurant is housed inside the city’s beautiful Geozavod building, a Baroque and Art Nouveau heritage listed building dating back to 1905.
On the menu, you’ll find traditional Serbian dishes and ingredients reinterpreted through a modern lens by head chef Miša Aljehin.
Single Origin
Another of Belgrade’s best spots for coffee is Single Origin. It’s an airy, modern space offering classic espresso drinks and an assortment of filter options. There’s also tea, freshly squeezed juices, a small alcohol selection, and snacks.
Tamper Speciality Coffee & Brunch
If you’ve been eating a lot of traditional Serbian food and are looking to start your day with a great coffee and something lighter, Tamper is a great option. They have an assortment of espresso and filter drinks, a selection of single origin beans. To eat, its light options like granola and smoothie bowls, and avocado on toast.
Have you been to Belgrade before? What are your favourite things to eat there, and your favourite place to eat them? What would you add to this Belgrade Food Guide?
