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Palay, Fitzroy

Paul
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Palay, Fitzroy

MELBOURNE | Chef Fhred Batalona started his Filipino food pop, Palay, a few years back. It allowed him to cook up the food of his homeland for Melburnians, while working as a chef at restaurants like Bar Pigalle, Orlo, and Casa Chiono. In April this year, Fhred teamed up with Lawrence Jasper Menor, Ralph Libo-on, and Michael Mabuti, to open Palay as a bricks and mortar restaurant, in the old Hell of the North space.

The dark and moody space has been brightened up a bit, to match the food and vibes that Fhred want to showcase. The menu is inspired by Fhred’s mum Alma, also a chef. Its features honest, traditional Filipino dishes, with the occasional subtle flourish gleaned from techniques learned cooking other cuisines.

During the day, you’ll find a brunch menu with dishes like silog (your choice of protein, served with garlic fried rice, fried egg, atsara (pickled papaya), sawsawan (spiced vinegar) and banana ketchup, arroz caldo (Filipino-style chicken porridge), and the fluffy eggplant omolette, tortang talong. There’s also coffee, Filipino-inspired lattes, and house made Filipino spritzes and sodas.

The menu switches up for dinner, which is when I visited. Kinilaw, a tangy, coconut milk-laced ceviche-style dish with generous chunks of market fish and tuna, is a must order. Also be sure to grab the chicken adobo inihaw (grilled) skewers, and the sizzling pork sisig. The tasting menu (traditional or vegan), at $65 a head, is a great value option that gets you all of the highlights.

To drink, it’s a selection of local wines, Filipino beers, and Filipino-inspired cocktails. The daytime drinks menu is also available if you want something non-alc.

If you do book in for dinner, you might also get the chance to partake in a bit of an impromptu karaoke session, too. Like I said earlier, a brighter space, food, and vibes.

Palay

135 Greeves Street
Fitzroy
Victoria 3065
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9279 2867
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Mon: 5:00pm to 9:30pm
Tue – Sat: 10:00am to 3:00pm, 5:00pm to 9:30pm
Sun: 11:00am to 3:00pm, 5:00pm to 8:00pm

Cumbé, Brunswick

Paul
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0
Cumbé, Brunswick

MELBOURNE | For lovers of Mexican food and sandwiches, the torta, a popular street food in Mexico City, is the perfect snack. Frankie’s Tortas and Tacos introduced the torta to Melbourne a few years ago, and now Cumbé in Brunswick East is putting its spin on things.

Cumbé opened on Sydney Road a few months ago. It’s from Melbourne-born chef Ross McCombe, who has lived in Mexico City for several years, and you might know from his stint back home at Hacienda, and his mate, Rafael Bravo. Raff fell in love with Melbourne’s coffee scene while studying engineering here, and opened his own Melbourne-style coffee roastery when he moved back home to Mexico City. Now Raff is back in Australia, and it’s Melbourne’s turn to get a taste of Raff hometown. I was invited in by Raff’s wife aka Cumbé’s marketing manager, Eve, to take a look.

The menu features three tortas, also available as bowls, pies and sausage rolls, and a small selection of pastries from Suburbia Bakery. The tortas consist of bánh mì (similar to the Mexican bolillo) from nearby bakery Dat Thanh, filled with chilaquiles (fried tortilla chips, sour cream, onion, green or red salsa, and coriander). Fillings include Milanesa (chicken schnitzel), cochinita pibil (pulled pork), and huevo frito (fried egg).

I tried the Milanesa and the cochinita, opting for spicy over mild. Both are great, but latter really stands out. It uses a recipe that Ross perfected while working at one of Mexico’s best restaurants, Quintonil. The Yucatán-style pork neck and shoulder is marinated overnight and slow roasted for 17 hours before being pulled. It’s juicy, and full of intensely wonderful flavour. It’s a juicy, crunchy, sloppy mess of a sandwich, and it’s great.

Pies and sausage rolls put a Mexican spin on the Aussie favourites. I highly recommend the sausage roll al pastor. It features a dense filling based on taco al pastor pork, and pairs great with the house tomato sauce, made using five-day fermented tomatoes.

For drinks, it’s top notch coffee using Seven Seeds and Market Lane beans, and Mexican sodas. I recommend trying the coffeechata – house horchata spiked with espresso.

Cumbé

551 Sydney Road
Brunswick
Victoria 3056
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sun: 8:00am to 2:30pm

Moondrop, Fitzroy

Paul
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0
Moondrop, Fitzroy

MELBOURNE | Located in the former space of Fitzroy cocktail institution, The Everleigh, you’ll find a new cocktail bar. It’s called Moondrop, and it’s from the team behind Sleepy’s in Carlton North (Steve Chan, Jacob Muoio and Jesse Kourmouzis (ex-Above Board)). Moondrop is brings a more playful vibe to the space, while retaining the former bar’s dedication to exceptional quality cocktails.

Walk up the stairs, and the space is familiar. The bar’s in the same spot, and there’s the same little nooks and crannies where you can park yourself for the night. Design, drinks, and food wise, the theme at Moondrop is centred around Eastern culture and flavours. Jesse and Steve have been to Shanghai a few times this year, running a whirlwind series of pop-ups, spending time with some of that city’s best bartenders. Many of the decorations that you see around the bar, are from those visits.

The drinks menu has something for everyone – alcoholic cocktails, of course, along with one of the more considered and extensive low/non-alc cocktail lists in town. The ‘Me & Ube’ is inspired by the Piña Colada, and Jesse’s love of ube bubble tea. It’s a lightly carbonated blend of hree types of rum, oat milk, Licor 43, pineapple juice, ube, and tapioca pearls.

For something punchier, try the Chanhattan. It’s a twist on the Manhattan, featuring smoky lapsang souchong, chocolate liqueur, and Nikka From the Barrel whisky. Topped with a house-made chocolate crisp, it’s a great choice. There’s also Tsing Tao longnecks, and a global winelist with a focus on Chinese, and Chinese-Australian winemakers.

Food wise, Jacob’s menu builds on the kind of food he’s been cooking at Sleepy’s with Steve. You’ll find things like three types of house-made dumplings, BBQ mushroom bao, and a surprisingly light snow skin mooncake filled with vanilla and red bean ice-cream.

Moondrop

L1/150 Gertrude Street
Fitzroy
Victoria 3065
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Thu – Mon: 5:00pm to 1:00am

Taqueria Sin Nombre, Melbourne CBD

Paul
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0
Taqueria Sin Nombre, Melbourne CBD

MELBOURNE | When couple Kady Simkins and Paul Walcutt opened their food truck, Dingo Ate My Taco, in 2020, it was a breath of fresh air for Melbourne’s taco scene. For me, I was transported back to trips to California and Texas, where the Mexican food scene is different than what you find south of the border, but no less legitimate and delicious.

A few months ago, the duo opened their first bricks and mortar venue, Taqueria Sin Nombre. Hidden in an alleyway off an alleyway in Chinatown, the new spot builds on the foundations laid by Dingo Ate My Taco. The space, formerly home to a bean sprout supplier, feels like it was made to be a taqueria. It’s dark and intimate, with exposed brick walls, a few seats and tables at one end, and a long, teracotta-tiled bar lined with stools that wraps around the open kitchen. Vinyl plays over the custom speakers, and crates of Mexican Coke are stacked near the door.

Masa is mixed and milled daily, turned into dough as service progresses, and turned into tortillas on a machine imported from Mexico. Meat and veg are grilled over charcoal on a Brick Chef hibachi, and a mini trompo (vertical spit) helps ensure that tacos al pastor are on point.

The menu is a concise one, featuring old favourites, new creations, and rotating options. Tex Mex is still a big influence, as is Mexico City’s contemporary street food scene. Kady and Paul visit home and Mexico a few times a year, and are always finding fresh inspiration. Beef brisket, birria, and tacos al pastor are winning taco trio, but be sure to try some of the new things.

Kanga asada replaces traditional pork with kangaroo meat, while a rib eye taco with crispy matchstick fries is another winner. Be sure to try the beef tongue quesadilla, full of flavour, texture, and oozing with cheese. There’s a DIY salsa station, and dietaries are well catered for – the tortillas are gluten-free, and there’s loads of vege options.

To drink, it’s a selection of Mexican sodas, horchata, and non-alc beer. Taqueria Sin Nombre’s liquor license should come through any day now. When it does you’ll also be able to get mezcal, Mexican-inspired cocktails, and beer.

Taqueria Sin Nombre

12-14 Celestial Avenue
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Thu – Sat: 5:00pm to 10:00pm

Gerald’s Bar, Carlton North

Paul
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Gerald’s Bar, Carlton North

MELBOURNE | Gerald’s Bar, which originally opened on Rathdowne Street in 2006, holds a special place in many a Melburnian’s heart. For me, it’s always been a place that I visited on a whim, usually with Lauren, after heading to or from somewhere else.

More often than not, the unplanned decision to pop in and have “just one”, would turn into a longer session. One of wine discovery, snacks, and chats about anything and everything with staff and patrons. It’s the kind of place that anyone would want as their local.

Gerald’s 1.0 closed its doors in October, and reopened last week in the space formerly occupied by Enoteca Sileno, and The Rising Sun Hotel before that. The first thing you notice when you enter Gerald’s 2.0 is that the space is much bigger. The front bar fits 100 patrons, with stools lined along a large, curved bar, and banquet seating. There’s a more formal dining space behind this, and a courtyard at the rear. Upstairs, you’ll find a function space.

The space is filled with an assortment of paraphernalia that Gerald Diffey and co-owner Mario Di Ienno have acquired over the years. Much of what was on display in the old space, returns. Murano grape cluster lights, and other fittings from the Enoteca Sileno days have also been retained. The venue might be “new”, but it already feels lived-in.

Leading the kitchen is Matt Podbury and long-time Gerald’s chef Pete Savage. They’ve been given free reign to create a menu of snacks and larger plates that reflects what they like, the heritage of the neighbourhood, the space, and Gerald’s. The quail scotch egg with Cumberland sauce is a must try. So to, the Raffa Fields asparagus with yeast hollandaise (a by-product from the house-made bread making process). For larger plates, the Noojee Rainbow trout served in smoked butter sauce, with trout roe; and the tender aged dairy cow sirloin with broad beans and macadamia, are great.

Drinks wise, it’s the same sort of thing going on as the old place. A very nice selection of interesting wines from around the world, local beers, and classic cocktails. Whatever people order first, and what Gerald’s enjoying drinking, inform the wine by the glass list, to great effect.

It’s only been a week, but Gerald’s 2.0 feels like its hasn’t missed a beat. As for the old space, chef and Gerald’s Bar regular, Audrey Shaw, is reopening it soon, with Gerald’s blessing, as Bar Carnation.

Gerald’s Bar

920 Lygon Street
Carlton North
Victoria 3054
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9349 4748
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Wed: 4:00pm to 11:00pm
Thu: 4:00pm to 12:00am
Fri – Sat: 12:00pm to 12:00am
Sun: 12:00pm to 11:00pm

Daphne, Brunswick East

Paul
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0
Daphne, Brunswick East

MELBOURNE | Etta owner, Hannah Green, has been mulling over the idea of opening a second venue for a few years now. The stars aligned, recently, when the opportunity arose to take over the lease of the Bar Romantica space, just up the road. Last week, Daphne opened, and it’s already proving a hit with locals.

Daphne is, in many ways, what Etta was originally meant to be – a casual spot for drinks and snacks, rather than a fine dining, hatted restaurant. If you every visited Bar Romantica, or Cafe Romantica before that, you’ll recognise many nods to the site’s past.

The original terrazzo floor and vermiculite ceiling are there, and booths still line the right of the venue. The big wood-fired oven is where it always was, given a refurb by Sam ‘The Brick Chef’ Fraraccio. Where the pool table was, is now a seated area that can curtained off for private events.

Vibe wise, think diner meets old school trattoria, complete with ‘Romantica’ red and white chequers. Artwork and mirrored surfaces help to create a much brighter space, as do the daffodil-inspired 3d printed lampshades. In fact, those with a keen eye will notice a lot of subtle nods to the namesake flower.

Chef Diana Desensi leads the kitchen, and has put together a menu of Italo-Euro inspired dishes that rotate with the seasons. Things like fermented potato flatbread with mussels escabeche, steak tartare with long pickled chillies, a pig’s head hot dog, and the must try, buttery cavatelli with calamari and yellow tomato.

To drink, it’s a cocktail list created by Sam Peasnell, who also heads up Etta’s cocktail program. The signature 3057 Martini, a nod to Brunswick East’s postcode, and the ratio of ingredients, is a must try. There’s a diverse selection wine and spirits from around the world, and a sharp selection of local beers on tap, plus Guinness. The keenly-priced house red and white, from Yarra Valley’s Dom Valentine, are a great shout.

I couldn’t think of a better person to take over such a storied Brunswick East spot. Hannah knows and loves this neighbourhood and its people, is genuine, and passionate about hospitality. Daphne’s concept might not be anything particularly unique in this town, but from the moment you walk inside until the time you leave, you know you’re somewhere special.

Daphne

52 Lygon Street
Brunswick East
Victoria 3057
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9191 9410
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Mon – Thu: 4:00pm to 10:30pm
Fri – Sat: 4:00pm to 1:00am

Hydra, The Perfect Day Trip Greek Island

Paul
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0
Hydra, The Perfect Day Trip Greek Island

HYDRA | If you’re looking for a Greek Island that’s easy to visit as a day trip from Athens, Hydra is one of your best options. Also known as Ydra, or Idra, the island is a small one (49.6 km2), and can be reached by ferry from Piraeus (Athens) in between one to two hours, depending on whether you get the fast ferry, or the regular one.

There’s one main town on the island, home to a population of around 2,000 people. Most of what you’ll want to see and do when visiting is located in town, with a single walking path leading out of town. This path hugs the coast, offering various beachside stops in which to relax and go for a dip in crystal clear, blue waters.

Hydra a peaceful place, and you can’t help but notice the lack of cars and vehicular noise as you’re exploring. With the exception of garbage trucks, no motorised vehicles are allowed on the island. You won’t even see any pedal bikes, as the terrain is far too hilly, and the streets too narrow. The best way to get around is on foot, since everything is so close. You can also get around using public transport, which takes the form of horses, mules, donkeys, and water taxis.

There aren’t any sandy beaches on Hydra. Instead, you’ll find pebbled coves dotted throughout, inviting you to relax with the smell of fresh pine, and the clearest, bluest water that I’ve personally seen in Greece. They may not be the biggest or ‘best’ beaches in Greece, but they’re pretty special. Mandraki Bay, Kaminia Castello, and Vlychos are three of the most accessible ones within walking distance of the centre.

Singer/songwriter Leonard Cohen lived on Hydra for a time in the 1960s. He was inspired to write his song “Bird on the Wire”, while observing that very thing. Wander around, just outside the centre of town, and you’ll find a variety of coloured plants, birds flying around, and a few small villages. It’s a joy to explore them, checking out the topography of the area, and the architecture. Most have a taverna or two, and even accommodation if you don’t want to stay in the heart of town.

Due to its size, and relative lack of amenities, Hydra isn’t as popular of a destination as some of its larger and more lively cousins. It’s this peace that’s the island’s biggest selling point, and in recent years, more people have started to cotton on.

In the main town, you’ll find several places to eat and drink. Prices are elevated due to the captive market, as you’d expect. One thing that I like to do, is to prepare a picnic basket full of goodies from my favourite independent grocery stores and market stalls in Athens. It’s cheaper than buying food on Hydra, and there’s nothing quite like having a picnic in a quiet, beachside cove.

If you want to eat in at a restaurant with a waterfront view, I recommend Psinesai Grill House. They offer decent quality, tasty, traditional Greek taverna fare. Just behind it, you’ll find pastry shop, Tsagaris. The family-run bakery has been operating since 1930, and are famed for their traditional almond-based biscuit, amygdalota, and other Greek pastries.

For a relaxing drink, while waiting for your ferry back to Athens, pay a visit to Spilia Beach Bar. It’s located on an elevated part of the port, overlooking the ocean and the main town.

Ginza Nana Alley, Perth CBD

Paul
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0
Ginza Nana Alley, Perth CBD

PERTH | If you’ve ever enjoyed an experience dining and drinking in the narrow yokocho (bar and eatery-filled alleyways) of Tokyo, you’ll love Perth’s Ginza Nana Alley, delivering on both atmosphere, and the quality of food and drink. Hidden down a CBD laneway, Ginza Nana Alley is home to two distinct spaces. Chef Naoyuki Suzuki grills yakitori at Yakitori Washokudo, while Onomichi Ramen Mitsuya, is the place to go for Hiroshima-style fish broth ramen and gyoza.

Tonkatsu Kubota is where you’ll find tonkatsu and hamburg, served up a variety of ways, and Ginza Midai sees oden meet kappo-style dining. To round things off, you have cafe by day, intimate cocktail bar by night, Monkey and Bird.

I started my night with some yakitori at Yakitori Washokudo. Grab a seat at the counter if you can, and watch chef Naoyuki work his magic. The chef’s selection is a great option, supplemented with a few other skewers of your choosing. Just like in Japan, all of the chicken is used. From tail, gizzards, and heart, to juicy thigh, crispy chicken skin, and tsukune served with egg yolk and tare dipping sauce, it’s all here.

I decided to leave some space for gyoza at Onomichi Ramen Mitsuya. Steamed and fried for a crispy bottom and soft/chewy top, they’ve got just the right ratio of porky filling to dough. I definitely need to return to this one for some ramen the next time I’m in Perth.

To cap things off, a cocktail at Monkey and Bird. During the day, there’s a menu of things like V60 coffee, matcha lattes, and parfaits. At night, it switches into bar mode, offering a selection of quality drinks, centred around a Japanese-inspired cocktail menu.

Ginza Nana Alley

McLean Lane
Perth
Western Australia 6000
Australia

Telephone: 0413 777 556
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Sat: 11:00am to 11:00pm
Sun: 11:00am to 5:00pm

North 54, Leederville

Paul
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0
North 54, Leederville

PERTH | Vietnamese-born, Australian-raised chef, Bac Pham, has worked in kitchens across Perth, and spent time in Thailand. Bac’s career has seen him cook a variety of global cuisines, and he’s always enjoyed linking things back to his Vietnamese heritage, in fun and creative ways. North 54 has been the vehicle by which he’s done this and now, after running a series of pop-ups, he’s found a permanent home for it.

At North 54, Bac’s taking authentic Vietnamese dishes and flavours, and putting a personal spin on them. Bac’s parents still run a deli serving Aussie and Vietnamese food, and all the dishes on the menu have their origin in Bac’s mum’s recipes. He’s leaning into his own personal story, growing up a second-culture kid in Australia, and expressing it in exciting and delicious ways.

There’s six bánh mì on the menu, which are also available as noodle or rice bowls. Bun cha appears in banh mi form, using lamb mince instead of the traditional pork. Roast pork is marinated in red tofu and five-spice, and served with pork mince, while the tamarind-heavy son-in-law egg bánh mì, is another winner. Bread, baked daily, is light and fluffy, with a nice, crisp exterior.

Beyond bánh mì, there’s snacks like spring rolls, pâté so (Vietnamese meat pastries), and chicken wings. The latter, deep-fried to perfection with a wonderful sweet-sticky sauce, and tender meat, are a must order. If you have a sweet tooth, there’s also a few baked treats like matcha cookies and madeleines.

To drink, it’s Vietnamese coffee, served with or without salt cream, pandan and ube cloud foam lattes, and iced tea.

North 54

253A Oxford Street
Leederville
Western Australia 6007
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Thu – Sat: 10:30am to 2:30pm

Flying Jetstar Economy Class From Sydney To Seoul

Paul
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0
Flying Jetstar Economy Class From Sydney To Seoul

TRAVEL | Jetstar operates one flight a day between Sydney and Seoul, with an average flight time of 10 hours and 35 minutes. The Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner (“Dreamliner”) is currently used on the route, and travellers can choose between Economy and Business Class.

Check In

A recent update to Jetstar’s check-in systems now means that online check-in is finally available for international Jetstar flights to or from Australia. You can check in using the Jetstar app or on their website. You can save/print a pdf boarding pass, or add a digital boarding pass to your phone’s wallet app.

There’s still the option to check-in at a staffed counter. The process at the counter itself is straight forward, but with a lot of people checking in bags, the line moves slowly.

Luggage

When flying international with Jetstar Economy, your checked luggage allowance will depend on your fare. On the basic Economy Starter fare you can purchase between 15-40kg of checked luggage allowance in 5kg increments. A Plus bundle gets you 20kg with the option to purchase up to 20kg more, and the Max bundle gets you 30kg with an option to purchase up to 10kg more.

For carry-on it’s one main plus one small bag up to 7kg total, with an option to purchase and additional 7kg.

Service

I had no major complaints about the service of the staff at all stages of my flight experience. Staff were friendly and helpful, but not overbearing. The only thing that I’d suggest could be improved would be for passengers to be offered water during a delay.

My flight was delayed for an hour after boarding due to a external light that needed to be repaired. While communication from the captain’s cabin keeping us updated was great, it would have been nice to have been offered some water.

Cabin

The Jetstar Economy cabin on the Dreamliner that flies from Sydney to Seoul features 314 seats, in a 3-3-3 layout. There are enough flight attendants around so getting the attention of someone should you need assistance isn’t an issue.

Colour wise it’s orange, and varying tones of grey, in line with Jetstar’s branding. When it comes to cleanliness, everything nice and clean. These Dreamliners are starting to show their age, with some of the seats and finishings showing noticeable signs of wear and tear. Note that Jetstar is scheduled to start a refresh of their Dreamliners from March 2026.

Seat

The leather seat has dimensions of about 76cm x 43cm, on the smaller end of the scale but in line with what you find on most low cost airlines flying this sort of distance. Like any economy seat, it doesn’t recline that far back. There’s an adjustable cushioned headrest which is handy when you want to get some sleep, and not often found on low cost carriers.

There are small armrests, and a leather pocket sleeve at the back of the seat in front to place a few things. There’s not much space to get work done with the tray down if you’ve got a laptop, but for a tablet sized device it’s possible to get some productive stuff done.

There’s a USB port for charging devices, and a power outlet (two for each bank of three seats) but do be aware that the power provided is at USA power standards of 110V AC 60 cycles (Hz), not Australian power standards of 220V AC 50 cycles (Hz).

You can upgrade to a front section seat, which gets you a considerable increase in legroom, plus room to stand and stretch without bothering anyone, for AUD$38. I usually do this, but on this flight those seats had already sold out.

Entertainment

Unlike a lot of low cost carriers, Jetstar’s Economy seats do have seat back screens (22.9cm), however to make use of the entertainment you’ll have to pay AUD$10 to access it. Entertainment is also included with some of the fare bundles that you can pre-purchase before your flight.

There’s a general selection of the latest movies and TV shows from the USA, Japan and elsewhere, plus music and a few radio stations and podcasts. The radio stations are free and don’t require the entertainment bundle. I opted to load my iPad with a few games and movies rather than pay for entertainment so can’t speak to the quality of the headphones that come with the entertainment bundle.

Note that if you fly on one of the refreshed Dreamliners post March 2026, there won’t be seatback entertainment. Instead, there will be a $7 add on available, which will allow you to stream Jetstar’s entertainment to your personal device.

Food

Food isn’t included with Jetstar’s base Starter fares, but you can pre-purchase a meal, or choose from the on-board menu. If you add one of the bundles to your fare you’ll generally get a meal or meal voucher included. Food options include things like salads and sandwiches, noodle bowls and a variety of snacks and drinks – alcoholic and non-alcoholic. If you choose to pre-purchase the options are similar to what you find in Qantas economy.

Amenities

No amenities are included with the base Starter fare but you can pre-purchase an ‘international chill kit’ for $25. It includes an eye mask, earplugs, inflatable pillow, socks, lip balm, hand cream, wet-wipe, pen, and blanket.

Verdict

Overall I was happy with my Jetstar flight from Sydney to Honolulu. When I purchase a seat on a low cost carrier the main things I’m looking for is a good flight price, reliability, friendly service and a comfortable seat. All of the other extras I can live without.

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