MELBOURNE | A year after opening his casual Kerala diner, Toddy Shop, chef Mischa Tropp has opened second venue, Kolkata Cricket Club (“KCC”). It’s a collaboration with David Mackintosh, that’s transformed the former San Antone by Bludso’s BBQ space at Crown, into a homage to Kolkata’s old-school ghymkhanas (social and sporting clubs) and Bengali member’s clubs.
KCC can be tricky to find, in the maze that’s the crown, but it’s worth seeking out. The 150 seater space has plenty of seats and tables, and prime seating around the rattan-wrapped Sporting Bar, with views of the open kitchen near the entrance.
While Toddy Shop is about Kerala food that draws on Mischa’s heritage, KCC casts a wider net. It’s a pan-Indian menu with a lot of Bengali influences and regional dishes, presented in a nice and considered way. It’s food that’s designed to appeal to both the Indian community, and the diverse array of people who stay at, and pass through, Crown.
On a Sam “The Brick Chef” Fraraccio custom-built wood-fired grill, and two tandoors are where things are cooked, which adds additional depth to the food. Snacks, like puchka (hollow fried wheat pastry filled with spiced chickpeas, potato, and tamarind water), and duck kulcha (saffron-braised duck filled flat bread with apricot chutney), are sublime. spiced and herbed lamb mince seekh kebabs with mint chutney are also brilliant.
For mains, Mischa’s butter chicken, which you may have had during his lockdown “Elsie’s” pop-up, is back. Paired with garlic naan it’s the ultimate crowd pleaser. There’s also things like prawn malaikari (wood-fired king prawns in a turmeric and coconut curry), and cheena badam bhendi (wood-fired okra with spiced peanut masala).
To finish, it’s hard to go past the brûléed mango, topped with cultured cream, lemon verbena, and mukhwas (a seed, nut, and peppermint mix, traditionally used as a digestive and breath freshener).
The drinks menu features an approachable selection of beers, a wine list that champions Indian-Australian winemakers, and Kolkata-inspired twists on classic cocktails. The house KCC lager by Pirate Life is a great match to the food, and be sure to try KCC’s spin on the negroni.
Kolkata Cricket Club
Crown Melbourne
L1, 8 Whiteman Street
Southbank
Victoria 3006
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9292 5777
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Sun, Wed – Thu: 5:00pm to 9:00pm
Mon – Fri: 5:00pm to 10:00pm