MELBOURNE | Chef couple Saavni Krishnan and Aditya “Adi” Suresh started their contemporary Indian dinner pop-ups under the Saadi moniker a few years ago. They ran the pop-ups while working full time at restaurants like Etta, Gemini, and Manze, honing their skills and tweaking the concept. In May, they took over the former Sunda space for a month-long residency. It proved a hit, and was extended by a month, and then another, until this month, the duo took over the space permanently.
Having been to, and loved, Saavni and Adi’s pop-ups at Etta and Hope Street Radio in the past, I was super keen to check out how they’d translated what they’d learnt over the years at their first permanent restaurant. When I was invited in to take a look, I didn’t hesitate to say yes.
Not much has changed inside, and it didn’t need to. This is still one of the freshest looking dining spots in town. New artwork graces the wall, as to a few knick knacks personal to Saavni and Adi, and a display filled with ingredients and ferments used in the kitchen.
Saavni grew up in Mumbai, her mum from the north of India and her father from the south. Adi, meanwhile grew up all over. Their food combines their heritage and family recipes with the best quality local produce and skills learned in Australia’s kitchens. The result is exciting, contemporary food that joins other restaurants like Toddy Shop, and Enter Via Laundry, in expanding Melburnian’s notions of what Indian food can be.
A tapioca fritter with preserved persimmon chutney started life at a pop-up at Queen Vic market. It’s a fun, chewy and crispy, flavour and textural delight. Salli Boti, meanwhile, sees the traditional semi dry spicy mutton curry reimagined as cured Southern Ranges beef with a brushing of bone marrow glaze and the requisite fried potato straws.
For larger plates, you have to try the Loddon Valley lamb brisket. It’s seasoned with kebab spices, rolled, stuffed, and cooked over charcoal. It’s is served with Dog Creek Growers bitter greens and finished with EVOO, and is one of the best lamb dishes I’ve eaten all year. The whole Corner Inlet flathead with pulikachal, and curry leaf podi, is also excellent.
For drinks, many of the wines have carried over from the Sunda list, with interesting drops from around the world, and local producers like Avani. There’s local craft beer, and cocktails that follow the same theme as the food. I really enjoyed the Chai Iced Tea. It’s a blend of 7 Spice Chai gin, peach, Darjeeling tea, and lemon.
Saadi
18 Punch Lane
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9654 8190
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Wed – Thu: 5:30pm to 10:00pm
Fri – Sat: 12:00pm to 2:00pm, 5:30pm to 10:00pm