MELBOURNE | Salona has been serving up traditional Greek food to Richmond locals since 1969. Tony Atherinos and his son, Thomas Konis, acquired the restaurant in 1980, when its clientele was mostly of Greek immigrants who frequented Swan Street’s gambling dens. Thomas’ son, Stavros, took over the reigns in the late 2000s. Today, he runs the restaurant with his wife, Alexandra, and brother Alex.
Under Stavros’ stewardship, the menu has evolved, serving the classics that Salona has long been known for, while delving deeper into tradition. Not necessarily modernising, but evolving and refining. The restaurant’s biggest transformation occurred last year, when the family took over the Tsitsanis Travel Centre space next door. This more than doubled Salona’s capacity and gave the space a fresh, but still cosy, look and feel.
While renovations were occurring, Stavros teamed up with friend and mentor Con Christopoulos to open pop-up, now permanent restaurant, Kafeneion. Insights gained from running Kafeneion with Con have helped shape the updated Salona. There’s an even deeper delving into heritage, inspired by the restaurant’s history and family recipes, trips to Greece, and what contemporaries are doing in Melbourne as the city experiences a new wave of Greek dining.
Produce is locally sourced, apart from Greek olive oil and some Greek cheeses. Fish is wild-caught, while meat comes from purveyors like G. McBean Family Butcher. Greek-Australian producers are championed, with things like mastika from Macedon Distillery, and wine by Stelios Kimonides. Speaking of drinks, cocktail fans should try the baklava syrup old fashioned.
Light and airy whipped white cod roe taramasalata is a perfect way to start your meal. Also get the warm and creamy Santorini-style fava dip. All dips are served with complimentary warm, crusty bread. After, you might want to try the house-pickled Fremantle Octopus, or Kefalograviera saganaki with apricot jam. I highly recommend the sikotakia – pan-fried lamb liver, perfect drizzled with fresh lemon juice.
For larger dishes, there’s dishes like papoutsaki – eggplant filled with beef ragu, and béchamel; mixed seafood, tomato, garlic, and herb youvetsi; and kokkinisto. The latter is a comforting stew of slow-braised beef in rich tomato sauce, served over pasta. A number of old favourites exist as rotating daily special. The Friday and Saturday special, kleftiko, is a must try. Goat is marinated in olive oil, lemon, garlic, and oregano, and placed atop thin-sliced potatoes and herbs. Wrapped in parchment paper, it’s slow cooked in the oven until tender.
Sides keep it simple, with things like olive oil chips, Greek village salad, and seasonal greens with lemon and olive oil. For dessert, it’s hard to go past portokalopita – a moist, sweet orange cake made with dried filo instead of flour. It goes great with Greek coffee, or a nip of ouzo.
Salona
260A Swan Street
Richmond
Victoria 3121
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9429 1460
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Mon – Sat: 12:00pm to 11:00pm
Sun: 12:00pm to 8:30pm