The Devonshire, Soho

LONDON | One of the many things that I miss about living in London, is its pubs. Don’t get me wrong, I adore a good Aussie pub, but there’s that something special about a proper British pub which does it for me. I have a few favourites that I try to get back to whenever I’m back in London, and after my most recent visit, I’ve added The Devonshire to that list.

The Devonshire dates back to 1793, but most recently was home to a branch of Jamie’s Italian. It reopened as a pub in November 2023, and has fast become one of the most popular “new” pubs in London, helping to spark a renaissance in Soho’s pub scene.

This should come as no surprise, given the trio behind its restoration. The Devonshire is operated by restaurateur Charlie Carroll (founder of Flat Iron), chef Ashley Palmer-Watts (ex-Fat Duck head chef) and publican Oisín Rogers (ex-GM of The Guinea Grill). Together, they’ve created something rather special. There’s the pub section with dark wood panelling and red leather banquettes on the ground floor, cosy dining spaces above, and a rooftop terrace that’s opened just in time for the summer.

Bookings for the dining section are amongst the most sought after in town, however the rooftop and pub section are both walk-ins only, with the full menu being available on the rooftop and a killer snack menu in the pub.

On the menu, you’ll find proper pub food that aims to be “the best version” of what it is. Produce is sourced from the best that the UK has to offer, and all preparation is done on site. There’s an on-site bakery, along with a butchery and meat ageing room run by George Donnelly (ex-Victor Churchill). The menu is written by hand, tweaked based on what’s good that day.

Protein, mostly cooked over a wood-fired grill, is things like dry-aged Scottish steaks, creel-caught langoustines from Oban, and hand-dived scallops from Devon. Flat iron steak with duck fat chips for lunch is a great option. It’s part of the excellent value £29 set lunch, which also gets you house bread and butter, a prawn and langoustine cocktail, and the already cult classic sticky date pudding. The sweet and tangy confit tomato tart, piled high with radicchio, is a worthwhile addition, too.

For bar snacks, its things like a Iberico bacon sandwich made using pigs from Brett Graham’s (The Ledbury) farm, a sausage roll, and one of the best scotch eggs I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying. To drink, its a quality selection of cask ale, draught beer, wine, and spirits. The Guinness, which is outstanding, was recently voted the best Guinness in London.

The Devonshire is well deserving of its plaudits. It’s a proper pub, egalitarian and welcoming despite the hype and regular visits from famous types, with well priced pints and quality dishes that champion the best of the British Isles. I can’t wait to go back.


The Devonshire

17 Denman Street
London W1D 7HW
United Kingdom

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Mon – Sat: 11:00am to 11:00pm
Sun: 12:00pm to 10:00pm

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