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New York: East Village & NoLita Street Art

The East Village & NoLita Street Art is some of the best in the city.  Historically poor areas, today both, and the bordering Lower East Side are to a large extent gentrified. Thankfully, the street art scene is still intact, in part because it’s tolerated and in part because those that have moved into the area see it as part of the “cool” that adds to the area’s amenity.

east village street art

east village street art

east village street art

This typifies exactly what I love about New York. A tiny space in between a store and a bar, and it’s used to broadcast a radio station. The whole space was literally just this, and what the DJ was spinning is what was on air live.

east village street art

east village street art

east village street art

east village street art

The East Village used to be a Dutch owned farm, with wealthy townhouses, then from the 1850s to the early 20th century, it was known as “Little Germany”, and was New York’s first foreign language neighbourhood. In the 1950s, it was home to many beatnicks, and then became a hotbed for hippies, artists, musicians and alternative types in the 1960s and it’s where New York’s Punk music scene originated.

During the 1970s and 1980s, it was considered one of the most dangerous parts of New York, with rampant homelessness, crime and drug use.

Since the 1990s, the area has gentrified and, in a theme which I have brought up in many previous posts, this has its pros and cons. It’s no longer unsafe, and along with the still present counter culture and arts scene in the area, there are great cafes, bars, restaurants and shops – independent and international.

This is a perfect sign of the area’s gentrification.  At first sight, this looks like street art.  Closer inspection reveals that it’s an advertisement for “Blue Moon”.  Blue Moon is a craft beer brewed by Blue Moon Brewing Company.  Upon further inspection however, one finds out that Blue Moon Brewing Company is owned by MillerCoors, one of the largest beer companies in the world.  The below advertisement, while looking quite good, is a slap in the face to all of the real street artists in the area producing great independent work, often with a political or social message (and often just to entertain).

Of course by me taking a photo of this, including it in a post about East Village Street Art, and talking about it, the advertising tactic has worked perfectly.  What is one to do?

east village street art

east village street art

Another mosaic by French street artist “Invader”.  I’ve seen his space invader mosaics in almost every city that I’ve been to in the world.

NoLita (“North of Little Italy”) also has lots of street art and interesting buildings.

This entire building was probably the most run down, intact building I saw in New York. Drug Den was the first thing that popped to mind, which could possibly be the case given that the area (back in Bowery) epitomised the “crime city” that New York was back in the 1970s and 80s.

I really wanted to check out the New Museum, which is full of modern art, but it was closed for re-installation when I went . The materials used to clad the building are really cool and it looks amazing in real life – very metallic.

New Art Museum New York

Heading uptown towards Union Square, the amount of street art slowly started to decrease, however there were still some gems to be found.

This piece was hidden behind a garden to the side of a building.

There’s nothing particularly special about this convenience store, but it’s typical of the kind of convenience stores you see all over the city.

New York: Chinatown Manhattan

Chinatown Manhattan (the are actually 7 Chinatowns in New York City) is an exciting, vibrant, busy part of New York. It is the home to the largest Chinese population in one place in the Western hemisphere, bordering the Lower East Side to its east and Little Italy to its north.

There is a lot going on at street level, and even more going on that’s not immediately obvious.  For example I stumbled upon a place that looked like nothing more than a small store with small street frontage.  When I walked in, the entire ground level of that block was a market – I thought I was back in Hong Kong such was the vibe and what was on sale.

chinatown manhattan new york

chinatown manhattan new york

Chinatown has been around for a long time.  In the 1840s, a Chinese man by the name of Ah Ken permanently moved to the area that is now Chinatown.  He was the first Chinese person to be recorded as a permanent resident in the area and set up a successful cigar shop.

chinatown manhattan new york

chinatown manhattan new york

chinatown manhattan new york

The background of Chinese immigrants in Chinatown is mixed.  In the 1960s, when major immigration reform was passed in the United States, a large number of Cantonese speaking immigrants, mainly from Hong Kong, moved into the area.  Since the 1980s, Mandarin speaking immigrants from mainland China have been the predominant group moving to the area.

chinatown manhattan new york

chinatown manhattan new york

chinatown manhattan new york

Chinatown is a very vibrant area and there’s always something going on.  Just observing people going about their day-to-day lives is interesting.

chinatown manhattan new york

This is the entrance to Manhattan from Jersey via the Holland Tunnel.

Little Italy used to be a lot larger than it is today.  Nowadays it has been reduced to barely more than one street across two blocks within Chinatown and is very much an area that caters towards tourists looking for a taste of nostalgia – the Little Italy they see in the old movies. Chinatown, on the other hand, is all about the locals.

New York: Statue Of Liberty & Ellis Island

Another day of beautiful weather in New York, and we decided to visit Liberty Island and Ellis Island. Respectively these two islands are home to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island Immigration Museum.

statue of liberty and ellis island immigration museum

statue of liberty and ellis island immigration museum

When you see the Statue of Liberty in real life, it truly is an amazing sight to behold. Gifted to America by the French as a symbol of freedom, you can’t help but think about all of the immigrants who arrived in New York via this route, dreaming of a new life, and the opportunity that this new country offered.  Certainly, the fortunes of those who did succeed in gaining entry into the United States varied considerably, but the hope that they must have all felt when they saw the Statue of Liberty must have been something else.

The Statue of Liberty was dedicated on October 28, 1886, designated as a National Monument in 1924 and restored for her centennial on July 4, 1986.

statue of liberty and ellis island immigration museum

The view of the Manhattan skyline from Liberty Island is quite spectacular.  Photos don’t really do it justice.

statue of liberty and ellis island immigration museum

You realise just how huge New York really is when you have a view like this, and notice that Brooklyn’s skyline alone is denser and taller than many other stand-alone cities in the world.

statue of liberty and ellis island immigration museum

Ellis Island was the gateway for millions of immigrants into the United States and was the  USA’s busiest immigrant inspection station from 1892 until 1924.  The museum of immigration has been open since 1990 and is housed in the Beaux-Arts main building, which includes the “Great Hall” where many immigrants were processed. It’s a fascinating museum, with a lot of information about what exactly happened when immigrants were processed and there are a lot of artefacts and restored rooms to look at, which gives you a real sense of place.

statue of liberty and ellis island immigration museum

statue of liberty and ellis island immigration museum

statue of liberty and ellis island immigration museum

New York: The Heart Of Midtown Manhattan

This post is focused around the heart of Midtown Manhattan New York – that is the area around 5th Ave, Madison Ave and side streets. These images are what a lot of people associate with New York and although vibrant, bustling and exciting, I didn’t feel as much of a connection with this area as the others I have discussed, simply because it’s quite generic. There are a lot of cities around the world with office towers and high end international brand shopping, and there’s nothing that really differentiates this part of New York from any other similar area in other cities around the world. Still great, don’t get me wrong, but not particularly unique.

Grand Central Terminal is a truly amazing train terminal. Completed in 1871, it is the largest station in the world by number of platforms. The terminal really fell into decline over the years and, by the 1980s, was covered in grime and billboards. In 1998, a 12 year restoration programme was completed and today it looks as amazing and beautiful as it did when it first opened.

midtown manhattan new york

midtown manhattan new york

midtown manhattan new york

midtown manhattan new york

About a minute after I took this photo, just up the road a homeless lady started strongly verbally abusing me because she thought I was taking a photo of her. I was walking and my camera was off. She definitely had mental issues.

midtown manhattan new york

midtown manhattan new york

midtown manhattan new york

midtown manhattan new york

The New York Public Library

midtown manhattan new york

midtown manhattan new york

midtown manhattan new york

The Rockefeller Centre is a complex of 19 commercial buildings built between 1930 and 1939. The biggest building is the GE Building. The whole centre was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1987.

If you think this is familiar, it is. This is turned into an ice skating rink during the winter and it’s always in movies.

Saks 5th Avenue. Beautiful old interiors and fit-out and a huge range of things to buy – overpriced though, as would be expected. If you’re shopping here, you’re not looking at the price tags.

Radio City Music Hall was the largest theatre in the world when it opened in 1932. It still hosts a variety of events all year round.

I was amazed that they managed to squeeze a building in between these two.

Steve Jobs memorial outside the Apple Store on 5th Ave.

Columbus Circle

The Foster designed Hearst Tower (the building with the triangles) was completed in 2006. It was New York City’s first “green” tower, and won the international skyscraper of the year award in 2006.

The original 6 storey Heart building at the base was actually completed in 1928, but the tower that was supposed to go on top of it was postponed because of the Great Depression. I took them a little while to actually finish the job!

In the 1950s and 1960s, 17 blocks of ethnic tenements were bulldozed to make way for a complex of buildings which together are known as the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts.

New York: World Trade Center & Occupy Wall Street

The World Trade Center tragedy isn’t something that needs to be explained.  The site used to be a tourist attraction because of the amazing, monolithic twin towers that stood there – today it’s an attraction for a very different reason.  When you arrive at the site, and see the sheer scale of it, it becomes very hard to comprehend what happened and how it could have possibly felt if you were there on that fateful day of 11 September, 2001.

Jamaica Center Station is one of the many Subway stations in the area that will get you to the World Trade Center site, which as well as housing the new World Trade Center buildings, is also home to the 911 Memorial.

occupy wall street movement 2011

St Paul’s Chapel is the oldest surviving church building in Manhattan, with construction completed in 1766. It is the church that, despite being across the road from the Twin Towers, survived completely intact.

occupy wall street movement 2011

One World Trade Centre under construction.

occupy wall street movement 2011

occupy wall street movement 2011

occupy wall street movement 2011

occupy wall street movement 2011

Occupy Wall Street is another event that occurred in New York City’s recent history that requires little explanation.  A grass roots movement, aimed at providing a voice to the “99%” of those who felt downtrodden by the “1%” in power.  It began in Zuccotti Park below, on 17 September 2011 and became a worldwide phenomenon, with “occupy x” protests popping up in cities all over the world.

The Occupy Wall Street protesters, before being violently evicted by their own government.  I’m not going to get political on this blog, however there are serious questions that need to be asked about the actions of the NYPD and the involvement of the US Government when it came to evicting the protesters.

Quite fairly too, questions need to be asked about those protesters who used the occupy protests as a means of protesting about other, unrelated niche things – I think that the underlying  message and purpose of the occupy movement was/is a very valid one, and by usurping the movement for other, non-related reasons, some risked overshadowing the original message.

occupy wall street movement 2011

occupy wall street movement 2011

On a lighter note, I absolutely love that there are a variety of street carts selling all types of food in New York.  Around lunch time, they are all very popular.

occupy wall street movement 2011

Wall Street is, of course, one of the financial centres of the world, and regardless of what you think of the world of finance, corporate power etc, there is no denying that you can feel the energy and power that’s wielded in this part of New York.

New York: Beyond The Williamsburg Stereotypes

When my fiancée and I were deciding where to stay in New York, we wanted, as most people do, somewhere that was affordable – this was especially important as we were spending 2 weeks in the city.  A search revealed Condor Hotel (which ended up being an excellent hotel), which was in Williamsburg in Brooklyn to be an option that looked like it ticked all of the boxes.

We had always assumed that we would stay in Manhattan, however did some research on the area and discovered all about what had been going on in Williamsburg re gentrification, the food scene, the art scene, hipsters and the like.  There were a lot of Williamsburg stereotypes, however it sounded like quite a decent area so we decided we’d give it a shot.

When we arrived, it turns out that the hotel was about a half hour walk away from the “cool” part of Williamsburg.  Where we were located was a Hasidic Jewish part of the neighbourhood.  I’m always interested in learning about different cultures and seeing what the lives of people are like in a city and, not being Jewish, I learned about a lot of stuff I didn’t know about and got to see a whole part of New York that I likely wouldn’t have it I was staying in Manhattan – this is what travel is about to me.

williamsburg stereotypes

williamsburg stereotypes

To a tourist, the famous yellow school buses are a tourist attraction in their own right.

williamsburg stereotypes

Everyone was walking around with cloaks/gowns/capes of sorts, and these big furry hats like you expect to see people wearing in the middle of winter in Russia.  All of the Jewish run shops in the area were closed and people were walking around very quietly at all hours of day carrying these particular plants that I hadn’t seen before along with palm leaves.

There were wooden boxes being constructed on balconies and on the sidewalk out the front of many of the houses/apartments. I knew that there was some sort of religious celebration going on, and a few days into my trip, I asked a Jewish guy at the shops what it was all about and he kindly told me all about “Sukkot”.

From Wikipedia:

Sukkot is a Biblical holiday celebrated on the 15th day of the month of Tishrei (late September to late October). It is one of the three biblically mandated festivals on which Hebrews were commanded to make a pilgrimage to the Temple in Jerusalem. The holiday lasts seven days. The first day is a sabbath-like yom tov when work is forbidden, followed by the intermediate Chol Hamoed and Shemini Atzeret. The Hebrew word sukkōt is the plural of sukkah, “booth or tabernacle”, which is a walled structure covered with skhakh (plant material such as leafy tree overgrowth or palm leaves). The sukkah is intended as a reminiscence of the type of fragile dwellings in which the Israelites dwelt during their 40 years of travel in the desert after the Exodus from slavery in Egypt. Throughout the holiday meals are eaten inside the sukkah and many sleep there as well. On each day of the holiday, members of the household recite a blessing over the lulav and etrog (Four species).

williamsburg stereotypes

williamsburg stereotypes

williamsburg stereotypes

williamsburg stereotypes

At the end of our holiday, when Sukkot had finished, this whole part of Williamsburg changed. All the shops were open, great smells from all the Jewish bakeries surrounded the area, and there were people and traffic everywhere. It was unrecognisable from a few days earlier.

Just west of the Jewish part of Williamsburg, things take on a Latino vibe. Advertisment, shops, the works – in this area lots of stuff was either bilingual, or not even in English. I love how New York is such a melting pot of cultures and you can experience so many of them in the same city – everyone is just free to do their own thing.

P1180511

williamsburg stereotypes

With Halloween just around the corner, there were shops selling carving pumpkins all over the city. There’s no real wasted space in New York. Everywhere you look, be it a side street, next to rail lines, there’s something going on.  The streets on either side of the raised rail lines seemed to have a particularly high concentration of small businesses – especially near the stations themselves, which would be expected.

williamsburg stereotypes

williamsburg stereotypes

williamsburg stereotypes

williamsburg stereotypes

williamsburg stereotypes

williamsburg stereotypes

Some might say that overhead rail lines and stations are an eyesore, but I think that they give the area a real unique character.

williamsburg stereotypes

The views from the above ground platforms are always fascinating and give you a real different perspective of the area.

williamsburg stereotypes

williamsburg stereotypes

williamsburg stereotypes

Williamsburg is such a diverse, unique and interesting part of New York, and while many of the Williamsburg stereotypes hold true, negative and positive, the fact of the matter is that Williamsburg, and Brooklyn in general is a great part of New York, and well worth your time.

New York: Brooklyn Street Art (Part 4)

In recent years, a lot of hipsters, alternative types, creatives and young professionals have moved into the area, giving it a very random and exciting vibe. As I mentioned in my New York Food Guide, there is a real push in New York towards locally sourced and produced food, and that is very evident in Brooklyn, with a lot of the stuff coming from here. Along with food, there are also lots of independent clothing stores and all kinds of other stores. There is something new and interesting to explore on almost every street including.

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

Heading north, you can go east into Bedford-Stuyvesant, which is another area that is gentrifying – as Williamsburg becomes too expensive, the gentrification spreads to previously untouched areas.

New York: Brooklyn Street Art (Part 3)

Heading north, the amount of activation increases.  There are all kinds of shops and places to eat and drink to be discovered.  The Brooklyn street art scene in this part of town, as would be expected, keeps on throwing up gems.

This is the part of town where you’ll find Mast Brothers Chocolate, Brooklyn Brewery, and other companies you might have heard about if you’re from overseas.

You can’t just take the street art at face value.  If you come across something like what’s in the picture below, each image has its own story to tell.

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

It’s not all warehouses and industrial buildings.  There are some really nice brick and brownstone places in this part of Brooklyn and it can go from being very gritty to being very charming quite quickly  It’s a very diverse and eclectic part of New York.

I’m amazed at how many people skip Brooklyn when they visit New York, especially given just how close it really is to Manhattan.

brooklyn street art

Follow the links for my Brooklyn Street Art Tour Part 1Part 2 and Part 4.

New York: Brooklyn Street Art (Part 2)

Continuing along the waterfront, moving west towards the more vibrant part of Williamsburg, the Brooklyn street art scene didn’t slow down.

It’s not just art on the buildings that features in the area.  Look up, look down, and you’ll be sure to find something that wasn’t immediately apparent.

brooklyn street art

Heading into the “main” part of Williamsburg, the abandoned warehouses started to give way to occupied and converted warehouses. Shops, bars, restaurants, galleries, apartments etc – all have been popping up in Williamsburg for quite a while now, and it certainly didn’t seem to be showing any signs of abating.  There was plenty more Brooklyn street art to discover in this part of town.

Follow the links for my Brooklyn Street Art Tour Part 1, Part 3 and Part 4.

New York: Brooklyn Street Art (Part 1)

When I went to New York, I stayed at Hotel Condor in Brooklyn as there was a really good deal going at the time.  It was unexpected, as I had always assumed that I’d stay in Manhattan, but I could have been happier to have stayed in the area.  So many tourists never venture beyond Manhattan, however Brooklyn has so much to offer. This update just covers a part of Williamsburg and Greenpoint in Brooklyn and even then it’s just scratching the surface.

One could easily spend an entire week exploring just Brooklyn, and my advice to anyone who visits New York is to, even if just for one day, get yourself over to Brooklyn and discover another side to New York.  In this post, I’ll be focusing on the amazing Brooklyn street art scene.

Part 1 focuses on the south-eastern part of Williamsburg, near the waterfront.  There is not much in the way of restaurants, shops, bars of cafes in this part of Williamsburg.  There are just a lot of old, abandoned warehouses and factories.  Despite this, there is no shortage of amazing street art in the area.

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

I love finding old signage that has long since lost its relevance from a utilitarian point of view.

brooklyn street art

brooklyn street art

Brooklyn is quieter than Manhattan, and is a really cool borough. Williamsburg has been undergoing gentrification over the past few years, and is an eclectic mix of old industrial buildings, some abandoned, some operational, some apartments some retail, some offices etc. Pockets are very residential in nature – and there are large Jewish, African-American and Latino communities amongst others.

There are a lot of old factories and warehouse scattered throughout Brooklyn, and they provide a small insight into what once was.

The sheer volume of Brooklyn street art is staggering.  Berlin is the only other city that I’ve been to that matches Brooklyn as regards street art.

It seems that everywhere you look in Brooklyn, there’s something to see.  Often it’s hard to tell whether what you are looking at is art, decay, authentic, inauthentic or a combination of some or all of those things.

Follow the links for my Brooklyn Street Art Tour Part 2Part 3 and Part 4.